From: hotrod@dsea.com
To: Hotrod_Digest_Users
Apparently-To: Hotrod_Digest_Users
Date: Tue Jan 23 10:23:55 PST 1996
Reply-To: hotrod@dsea.com
Subject: Hotrod Digest

Hotrod Digest Tue Jan 23 10:23:55 PST 1996

Todays Topics:

Subject: Re: Hawk full fairing info wanted
Subject: RC-31 JPG or Gif?
Subject: mailing list
Subject: hawkgt list
Subject: rear click
Subject: Re: RC-31 JPG or Gif?
Subject: motorcycles
Subject: Honda Hawk GT (NT650) enthusiasts info. exch.
Subject: Re: rear click
Subject: Re: rear click
Subject: turn signal alternatives
Subject: Rear Turn Signals
Subject: Re: rear click
Subject: Re: rear click
Subject: Re: rear click
Subject: RE: rear click
Subject: Re: Hawk full fairing info wanted
Subject: MRA race weekend at Steamboat Springs
Subject: desparately seeking help
Subject: Hawk GT Disscussion Mailing List
Subject: CBR900RR Shock Conversion
Subject: 900rr shock -initial impressions
Subject: Stoopid,stoopid mistake !!!!!
Subject: Hawk questions
Subject: Subscription
Subject: Wheel cost
Subject: Jet kit
Subject: Jet kit
Subject: Re: rear click
Subject: Please add me to the list
Subject: Re: Jet kit
Subject: Am I off the list?
Subject: Re: Jet kit
Subject: Carbs?
Subject: 916 Style Exhaust
Subject: Tales from the Bros
Subject: Re: 916 Style Exhaust
Subject: test, is this thing on??
Subject: Re: Chain and survey
Subject: Re: 916 Style Exhaust
Subject: Re[2]: Chain and survey
Subject: Ignition advancers
Subject: Re: your mail
Subject: Re: your mail
Subject: Re: hawkgt owner database
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Chain and survey
Subject: Request for Info
Subject: RE: 916 Style Exhaust
Subject: Re: Carbs?
Subject: Amsoil & Redline dangerous (fwd)
Subject: sign me back up!
Subject: Re: Amsoil & Redline dangerous (fwd)
Subject: Re: Jet kit
Subject: Re: New arrival
Subject: Re: Am I off the list?
Subject: CBR900 Shock FOR SALE!!!
Subject: In need of parts
Subject: Cool Place
Subject: Re: CBR900 Shock FOR SALE!!!
Subject: Re: Jet kit
Subject:       Re: Cool Place
Subject:       Re: CBR900 Shock FOR SALE!!!
Subject: Re: Amsoil & Redline dangerous (fwd)
Subject: Re: Amsoil & Redline dangerous (fwd)
Subject: un sub
Subject: Motorcycle FS: '90 Honda Hawk GT
Subject: Am I still on the list???
Subject: Re: CBR900RRRR Shock: Done
Subject: Re: CBR900RRRR Shock: Done
Subject: Re: CBR900RRRR Shock: Done
Subject: G12170@EMAIL.MOT.COM
Subject: Re: 916 Style Exhaust
Subject: Re: Chain and survey
Subject: Re: No Subject
Subject: Re: Jet kit
Subject: Re: Amsoil & Redline dangerous (fwd)
Subject: Re[2]: Chain and survey
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Chain and survey
Subject: Re[4]: Chain and survey
Subject: unsub
Subject: Got hit....
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Chain and survey
Subject: Re[4]: Chain and survey
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Chain and survey
Subject: Re: 916 Style Exhaust
Subject: Chain wear
Subject: Chain Wear
Subject: test
Subject: FS: Aerostich, 2pc, Red w/black sz 42
Subject: Pipes
Subject: Re: 916 Style Exhaust
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Chain and survey
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Chain and survey
Subject: fax . and administrative stuff
Subject: I can't get no connection
Subject: Please add briggsw@microsoft.com to the list
Subject: Re: Amsoil & Redline dangerous (fwd)
Subject: test.....
Subject: Subscription Request
Subject: Re: Need a radiator
Subject: Rear stand
Subject: Synthetic oils (fwd)
Subject: From the hawkgt list
Subject: request info.
Subject: Synthetic oils (fwd)
Subject: Gauge Bucket
Subject: RE: Synthetic oils
Subject: Differences in the years?
Subject: hawk purchase
Subject: Returned mail: unknown mailer error 9
Subject: Returned mail:  Host unknown (Name server: alpha1.csd.uwm.ed: host not found)
Subject: mail problem
Subject: those boring cylinders
Subject: Re: those boring cylinders
Subject: RE: Synthetic oils
Subject: rear stand
Subject: RE: Synthetic oils
Subject: RE: Synthetic oils
Subject: Re: those boring cylinders
Subject: Fwd: Synthetic oils
Subject: Returned mail: warning: cannot send message for 4 hours
Subject: Rear Rear head
Subject: Re: '88 vs. Later Differences
Subject: Euro Hawk?
Subject: Returned mail: warning: cannot send message for 1 day
Subject: Re: Differences in the years?
Subject: Pipes
Subject: subscibe hawk gt
Subject: Re: Euro Hawk?
Subject: Mailing list
Subject: Re: Pipes
Subject: Honda Bros ( 'Euro Hawk' )
Subject: Euro Hawk...
Subject: Re: Honda Bros ( 'Euro Hawk' )
Subject: Trade+cash for a Hawk?
Subject: fairing
Subject: Re: Pipes
Subject: HawkGT: Main jets front/rear
Subject: HawkGT: Pro-Tek 520 conversion kit
Subject: Re: Euro Hawk?
Subject: Re:  fairing
Subject: Re: HawkGT: Main jets front/rear
Subject: Re: Euro Hawk?
Subject: Returned mail: Cannot send message for 3 days
Subject: Re:  fairing
Subject: Re: Euro Hawk?
Subject: Re: 2 Left Legs?
Subject: RE: Pipes
Subject: RE: Pipes
Subject: front brake rotors
Subject: Re: 2 Left Legs+ aftermarket rotors 
Subject: Chain Adjustment
Subject: Re: Euro Hawk?
Subject: Re: Honda Bros ( 'Euro Hawk' )
Subject: Kosman Cast Iron Rotors
Subject: Re: front brake rotors
Subject: hawkgt@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Honda Bros ( 'Euro Hawk' )
Subject: Re: front brake rotors
Subject: re:  Kossman rotors
Subject: Re: Rear Rear head
Subject: Re: HawkGT: Main jets front/rear
Subject: Re: Euro Hawk?
Subject: Re: Differences in the years?
Subject: Re: Chain Adjustment
Subject: FAQ compendium and a Web page
Subject: Party?  Friday, October 13th (when else?), Skyline
Subject: Re: Party?  Friday, October 13th (when else?), Skyline
Subject: Re: Kosman Cast Iron Rotors
Subject: 900RR shock/chain
Subject: Re: Party? Friday, October 13th (when else?), Skyline
Subject: Gas Tank
Subject: Re: Party? Friday, October 13th (when else?), Skyline
Subject: WTB: CBR900RRRR shock
Subject: Re: WTB: CBR900RRRR shock
Subject: Re: WTB: CBR900RRRR shock
Subject: Re: WTB: CBR900RRRR shock
Subject: Re: Kosman Cast Iron Rotors
Subject: Re: WTB: CBR900RRRR shock
Subject: Hawk GT Mailing List
Subject: Re: WTB: CBR900RRRR shock
Subject: unscribe
Subject: Super/Dream Hawk for sale!!!
Subject: 900RR shock intstall
Subject: Hawk web page
Subject: Re: Super/Dream Hawk for sale!!!
Subject: Re: Super/Dream Hawk for sale!!!
Subject: Speedo inaccuracy (was Re: WTB: CBR900RRRR shock)
Subject: shocks
Subject: Re: Hawk web page
Subject: Hawk for sale 
Subject: Re: shocks
Subject: Hawkaholic
Subject: Shocks
Subject: Re:  Hawk web page
Subject: Re: Shocks
Subject: stop writing me!!!!
Subject: stop writing me!!!!
Subject: hit and run
Subject: Duck list
Subject: Cal Emission Sys
Subject: Mailing List
Subject: NTV 650 - Revere (EuroHawk)
Subject: Frank's web page?
Subject: hawk group
Subject: Dual Disk Report
Subject: Re: Dual Disk Report
Subject: Re: Dual Disk Report
Subject: Mirrors
Subject: Re: Cal Emission Sys
Subject: Re: Mirrors
Subject: Re: Cal Emission Sys
Subject: Drive line lash
Subject: Re: Drive line lash
Subject: Re: Drive line lash
Subject: Watanabe gas tank
Subject: addition to listserv
Subject: Please add me to the mailing list.  Thanks.
Subject: Rear end stand (again)
Subject: Re: Pipes
Subject: Ugly brown spooge on my cylinders!
Subject: Re: Pipes
Subject: The HawkWorks Newsletter
Subject: Re: Ugly brown spooge on my cylinders!
Subject: Re: Pipes / Drilling out Sliders
Subject: Re: Rear end stand (again)
Subject: Re: Pipes
Subject: Re: Ugly brown spooge on my cylinders!
Subject: Renting a bike . . .
Subject: Re: Pipes / Drilling out Sliders
Subject: Re: Pipes
Subject: Yet another parts bike . . .
Subject: Re: Cal Emission Sys
Subject: Re: Rear end stand (again)
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .
Subject: Friend wants info on Hawk Mods
Subject: Re: Pipes
Subject: Re: Pipes / Drilling out Sliders
Subject: Tank bag suggestions
Subject: RE: Rear end stand (again)
Subject: Re: Ugly brown spooge on my cylinders!
Subject: Re: Tank bag suggestions
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .
Subject: Re: Tank bag suggestions
Subject: 120 front tire?
Subject: Re: Drive line lash
Subject: Re: Ugly brown spooge on my cylinders!
Subject: Electric riding gear on Hawks
Subject: re: 120 front tire?
Subject: Re: 120 front tire?
Subject: Questions...
Subject: Re[2]: 120 front tire?
Subject: Re: Electric riding gear on Hawks
Subject: Re: 120 front tire?
Subject: Re: 120 front tire?
Subject: Hawkworks Address?
Subject: fairing
Subject: Re: 120 front tire?
Subject: Re: Electric riding gear on Hawks
Subject: Re: Tank bag suggestions
Subject: Re: Tank bag suggestions
Subject: Re: 120 front tire?
Subject: Re: Electric riding gear on Hawks
Subject: Re: Tank bag suggestions
Subject: Where's it go?
Subject: Brake drag
Subject: Hawk GT Motorcycle Info
Subject: Re: Brake drag
Subject: Geoffrey Mann:   gmann@mail.vt.edu
Subject: Re: Brake drag
Subject: Re: Brake drag
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .
Subject: Re: Electric riding gear on Hawks
Subject: Hawkworks Address (Here it is)
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .
Subject: Re: Electric riding gear on Hawks
Subject: Re: Electric riding gear on Hawks
Subject: Re: Where's it go?
Subject: Rear brake line routing...
Subject: Re: Tank bag suggestions
Subject: Re: Tank bag suggestions
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .
Subject: Re: Electric riding gear on Hawks
Subject: Re: Brake drag
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .
Subject: Source for new brake lines
Subject: Hey.
Subject: Re: Tank bag suggestions
Subject: Re: Source for new brake lines
Subject: Re: Source for new brake lines
Subject: Re: Tank bag suggestions
Subject: Re: Source for new brake lines
Subject: Re: Rear brake line routing...
Subject: Where to get Galfer's
Subject: carbs
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .
Subject: Re: Source for new brake lines
Subject: RE: Rear brake line routing...
Subject: Re: Electric riding gear on Hawks
Subject: valve seats
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .
Subject: Re: Tank bag suggestions
Subject: Re: valve seats
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .
Subject: UK Club
Subject: Clutch Cable Woes...
Subject: Re: Tank bag suggestions
Subject: re:  Front ends
Subject: CBR Frontend Questions
Subject: Re: CBR Frontend Questions
Subject: Re: CBR Frontend Questions
Subject: Re: Hey.
Subject: Re: Brake drag
Subject: Re: Source for new brake lines
Subject: Carb Epoxying???
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .
Subject: rear line diagram!!!!!
Subject: scanned stuff
Subject: Re: Rear Line Length
Subject: Hawk 700
Subject: Re: "stage 1" mods
Subject: Re: RealRiders (tm)
Subject: Re: Hawk gears, rear line
Subject: Daytona
Subject: Re: rear brake internal routing question
Subject: Re: top end power
Subject: Re: top end power

Administriva:

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From <@gaudi.CSUFresno.EDU:tdp11@lennon.pub.csufresno.edu> Fri Sep  1 10:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Hawk full fairing info wanted

On Thu, 31 Aug 1995 JimDuc916@aol.com wrote:

> Hey there Todd--and hawksters
> Don't be quick to call the Hawk a poor man's duck--I've got a 916, and three
> hawks!!!
[snip]

Don't get me wrong, I'm not putting down the Hawk. I love my Hawk and 
don't think that I would ever sell it, its just been too good to me and 
its too much fun! (but I still hope to get a 916 someday)

> have a BRAND NEW Two brothers RC31 street fairing kit, complete with dual
> head lights, zero gravity wind screen, and actual honda RC30 mirrors.  Never
> been mounted, white gel coat, like new.  Because it is!
> Price is $500, a couple hundred less than TBR.
> I also have way too many hawk parts, plus miscellaneous other stuff, like
> GSXR upside down front ends, and a 93 Ducati 900ss for sale.....
> thanks,
> jimd
> 
	The fairing you have sounds like a good deal! I am very 
interested in buying it. I'll give you a call tonight after work about 
the details (where to send the $$) :)
	I'm also interested in hearing more about the GSXR forks ;)
Talk to you later!
Todd

--
'89 Hawk GT (A VERY fine motorcycle!)
DoD #89647


------------------------------

From <@gaudi.CSUFresno.EDU:tdp11@lennon.pub.csufresno.edu> Fri Sep  1 10:53 PDT 1995
Subject: RC-31 JPG or Gif?

Hi all, 
Could someone steer me to some pixs of an RC-31? 
thank you mucho,
Todd


------------------------------

From HAWKPRIME@aol.com Fri Sep  1 11:04 PDT 1995
Subject: mailing list

Dear HawkGT,

I am a fellow Hawk owner. I was wondering if you could put me on the mailing
list. I have been riding it for 2 years, and it is almost fully modified to a
RC31. I am also a mechanic, if it helps i can give recommendations for
problems. Thank you very much.

HawkPrime


------------------------------

From SDixon@aol.com Fri Sep  1 18:40 PDT 1995
Subject: hawkgt list

I have a Honda Nighthawk CB 700.  Is this what this is about.  If so, I would
be interested in subscribig.  Would you plese let me know.  Thanks.


------------------------------

From M-Vollmer@bgu.edu Sat Sep  2 04:56 PDT 1995
Subject: rear click

I've noticed a periodic clicking noise coming from the rear portion of my
'88. I bought the bike about two weeks ago. The dial says it's been ridden
4200 miles and I've put about 1000 miles on it. I've adjusted the chain,
(it appeared to be too tight), looked at the brake and checked the axle. It
sounds off when slowing for a stop, especially after right turns. Any
thought would be appreciated. The click sounds almost like a binding noise
and can be felt throughout the bike.


Mike




------------------------------

From M-Vollmer@bgu.edu Sat Sep  2 05:42 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: RC-31 JPG or Gif?

>Hi all,
>Could someone steer me to some pixs of an RC-31?
>thank you mucho,
>Todd

Try http://www-chen.tamu.edu/homepage

Mike




------------------------------

From Thednor1@aol.com Sat Sep  2 11:59 PDT 1995
Subject: motorcycles

To whom it concerns:
I would like to recieve mail from your club.
Thank You.
Thednor1


------------------------------

From bigby@limestone.kosone.com Sun Sep  3 08:08 PDT 1995
Subject: Honda Hawk GT (NT650) enthusiasts info. exch.

To the Hawk list administrator:

Please include me in the HAWKGT mailing list. My email address is:
bigby@limestone.kosone.com (Paul Bigby)

Thank you

Paul Bigby



------------------------------

From greaney@ee.unr.edu Sun Sep  3 16:07 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: rear click

> 
> I've noticed a periodic clicking noise coming from the rear portion of my
> '88. I bought the bike about two weeks ago. The dial says it's been ridden
> 4200 miles and I've put about 1000 miles on it. I've adjusted the chain,
> (it appeared to be too tight), looked at the brake and checked the axle. It
> sounds off when slowing for a stop, especially after right turns. Any
> thought would be appreciated. The click sounds almost like a binding noise
> and can be felt throughout the bike.

Check the centerstand clearance.  It's posssible (from experience) that
the centerstand is rubbing against the chain.

-Mike


------------------------------

From danac@leland.Stanford.EDU Sun Sep  3 19:31 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: rear click

On Sun, 3 Sep 1995, Mike Nielsen wrote:

> > 
> > I've noticed a periodic clicking noise coming from the rear portion of my
> > '88. I bought the bike about two weeks ago. The dial says it's been ridden
> > 4200 miles and I've put about 1000 miles on it. I've adjusted the chain,
> > (it appeared to be too tight), looked at the brake and checked the axle. It
> > sounds off when slowing for a stop, especially after right turns. Any
> > thought would be appreciated. The click sounds almost like a binding noise
> > and can be felt throughout the bike.
> 
> Check the centerstand clearance.  It's posssible (from experience) that
> the centerstand is rubbing against the chain.
> 
> -Mike
> 
How does one adjust the centerstand if it is?

Dana


------------------------------

From CoachJim94@aol.com Mon Sep  4 09:56 PDT 1995
Subject: turn signal alternatives

 Hey fellow Hawksters, after returning from a short ride the other evening, I
noticed
my right rear turn signal had thrown its mounting screw and was hanging by
the wires.
I have secured it with new hardware for now, but I have always thought the
Hawk turn signals to be unsightly and was wondering if those of you who have
replaced them or reworked them could share your ideas with me as I would like
to modify them in some way. 


Thanks in advance,
COACH


------------------------------

From Gregbud@aol.com Mon Sep  4 10:38 PDT 1995
Subject: Rear Turn Signals

 On Sept. 4, 1995 CoachJim94@aol.com wrote,

>Hey fellow Hawksters, after returning from a short ride the other evening, I
noticed my right rear turn signal had thrown its mounting screw and was
hanging by the wires. I have secured it with new hardware for now, but I have
always thought the Hawk turn signals to be unsightly and was wondering if
those of you who have replaced them or reworked them could share your ideas
with me as I would like to modify them in some way. 

-I've replaced mine with Lockhart-Phillips "marker lights" they are much
smaller but just as bright as stock, and really clean up the look of the
tail.  When installing I had to experiment with a few combinations of the
wires untile I got them to flash at the proper rate. Lockhart-Phillips also
sell some really small signals, but I thought they would appear out of
proportion to the rest of the bike. 


------------------------------

From greaney@ee.unr.edu Mon Sep  4 10:49 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: rear click

> > > I've noticed a periodic clicking noise coming from the rear portion of my
> > > '88. I bought the bike about two weeks ago. The dial says it's been ridden
> > > 4200 miles and I've put about 1000 miles on it. I've adjusted the chain,
> > > (it appeared to be too tight), looked at the brake and checked the axle. It
> > > sounds off when slowing for a stop, especially after right turns. Any
> > > thought would be appreciated. The click sounds almost like a binding noise
> > > and can be felt throughout the bike.
> > 
> > Check the centerstand clearance.  It's posssible (from experience) that
> > the centerstand is rubbing against the chain.
> > 
> > -Mike
> > 
> How does one adjust the centerstand if it is?

I've got a Supertrapp on mine, and it might have a special piece or two
for the centerstand (sorry, it came with the bike, and I've never compared
it to stock).  On my bike, there is simply a bolt on the left (non-exhaust)
side of the bike that you can loosen/tighten and adjust the centerstand
stop (the little arm with the rubber stopper on it).  Again, this might be
a part from supertrapp, and not stock, but I _think_ it is a stock part.


-Mike



------------------------------

From mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil Tue Sep  5 12:43 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: rear click

>> How does one adjust the centerstand if it is?

>I've got a Supertrapp on mine, and it might have a special piece or two
>for the centerstand (sorry, it came with the bike, and I've never compared
>it to stock).  On my bike, there is simply a bolt on the left (non-exhaust)
>side of the bike that you can loosen/tighten and adjust the centerstand
>stop (the little arm with the rubber stopper on it).  Again, this might be
>a part from supertrapp, and not stock, but I _think_ it is a stock part.

Nope, the centerstand stop comes with the pipe.  I've been trying to figure
out how to adjust the angle myself short of relying on the friction of the
mounting bolt.  I will probably have it bent or a nut welded on to take an 
adjusting screw.

David Mackintosh      '82 245 Turbo  '92 Sovereign  '95 Moda  '89 Hawk GT
mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil         Germantown, MD, USA          DoD #1360



------------------------------

From greaney@ee.unr.edu Tue Sep  5 13:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: rear click

> 
> >> How does one adjust the centerstand if it is?
> 
> >I've got a Supertrapp on mine, and it might have a special piece or two
> >for the centerstand (sorry, it came with the bike, and I've never compared
> >it to stock).  On my bike, there is simply a bolt on the left (non-exhaust)
> >side of the bike that you can loosen/tighten and adjust the centerstand
> >stop (the little arm with the rubber stopper on it).  Again, this might be
> >a part from supertrapp, and not stock, but I _think_ it is a stock part.
> 
> Nope, the centerstand stop comes with the pipe.  I've been trying to figure
> out how to adjust the angle myself short of relying on the friction of the
> mounting bolt.  I will probably have it bent or a nut welded on to take an 
> adjusting screw.

On the supertrapp system, there is a lever that bolts onto the left centerstand
attachment point.  This is an adjustable lever, and often comes out of
adjustment at the wrong times (like today! like yesterday! like last week!
like ruding a Doc Wong ride!  etc...).

I'm sure you could fab a lever from some cheese-metal.  It's a pretty simple
device (if I remember, I'll try to measure the little bugger and figure out
exactly what the dimensions are, maybe even do an AutoCAD drawing or something)

-Mike


------------------------------

From jpl10@mfg.amdahl.com Tue Sep  5 13:22 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: rear click



> > > > I've noticed a periodic clicking noise coming from the rear portion of my
> > > > '88. I bought the bike about two weeks ago. The dial says it's been ridden
> > > > 4200 miles and I've put about 1000 miles on it. I've adjusted the chain,
> > > > (it appeared to be too tight), looked at the brake and checked the axle. It
> > > > sounds off when slowing for a stop, especially after right turns. Any
> > > > thought would be appreciated. The click sounds almost like a binding noise
> > > > and can be felt throughout the bike.
> > >
> > > Check the centerstand clearance.  It's posssible (from experience) that
> > > the centerstand is rubbing against the chain.
> > >
> > > -Mike
> > >
> > How does one adjust the centerstand if it is?
> 
> I've got a Supertrapp on mine, and it might have a special piece or two
> for the centerstand (sorry, it came with the bike, and I've never compared
> it to stock).  On my bike, there is simply a bolt on the left (non-exhaust)
> side of the bike that you can loosen/tighten and adjust the centerstand
> stop (the little arm with the rubber stopper on it).  Again, this might be
> a part from supertrapp, and not stock, but I _think_ it is a stock part.
> 


My centerstand was rubbing against the chain and upon looking at the rubber
stopper where it rests, I noticed that the rubber stopper was cracked and
so the centerstand was sitting higher than it suppossed to and thus the
rubbing against the chain.  What I did was to just glue a rubber pad against
the cracked one and it gave the centerstand more clearance.  BTW, I have the
Supertrapp system also.

-James-





------------------------------

From JTSMCRIDER@aol.com Tue Sep  5 13:23 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Hawk full fairing info wanted

Todd,
I noted that you were interested in the Two Brothers fairing that was posted.
 If you've decided on that, then you can disregard this.

A sport fairing like the TBR is a good choice if all you're looking for is
protection from the chest down.  But if you're looking for more protection,
then you might want to consider a fairing that is more touring oriented.

I have a SAENG Quantum fairing on my Hawk, and I like it.  It provides good
protection from the shins up, doesn't detract much from the appearance of the
bike, and does not introduce any stability problems.  Of course, it does cost
you about 20 mph on the top end, but if you're interested in comfort you're
probably not much concerned about hyperlegal cruising speeds.  It also comes
off very quickly and easily if, on occasion, you want to return to the
windblast mode for more sporty activities (the only thing that comes off when
mounting it are the turn signals and the bar-end weights, so depending on
your needs, they may have to be put back on when it is removed).

SAENG ads are in the back of most of the major bike mags. I think they now
have a follow-on model to replace the Quantum, but it should be essentially
the same in terms of performance.   If you get one, opt for the three-point
mounting hardware; it really makes for a solid installation.

JT


------------------------------

From bkrett@holly.ColoState.EDU Tue Sep  5 15:03 PDT 1995
Subject: MRA race weekend at Steamboat Springs


	MRA what is that? The Motorcycle Roadracing Assn. located in 
Colorado. In two weeks on September 17th the MRA is going to be holding 
there annual "road" races at Steamboat Springs. This is a realy neat 
event to attend if you are in the area. The races actually take place in 
the town on the public roads and there is usually some good close racing.
	The races are on that Sunday following the AHMRA's vintage road 
racing, BOTT(I believe and singles)  and dirt bike races. Basically the 
weekend is really fun with all kinds of racing going on. 
	Of course there are some Hawks racing usually at the standard 
club race, there are 5 Hawks (Die Ducati!) racing in the twins classes 
and Light Weight Superbike with various levels of modifications done to 
the bikes.
	Anyways if you have a chance stop by the races and feel free to 
stop by my pit. I'm always curious what other Hawk geeks like myself are 
doing.


						Brian Krett
						MRA# 139
						88' Hawk - Blue


------------------------------

From scutchin@vt.edu Tue Sep  5 19:01 PDT 1995
Subject: desparately seeking help

HELP!!!

I am having the worst problem with the Hawk I have ever had and I can't 
figure it out.
If I slowly rev the bike from idle on up in neutral, at about five thousand 
rpm's it starts missing.
This continues until about 6500, where it starts acting like for a split 
second it either gets no fuel or no spark - it completely dies, enough for 
the revs to drop by about four or five hundred, then it revs back up only to 
do it again.  If I hold the throttle steady there it will constantly go up, 
down, up, down.........you get the picture.  Also, I did a run from a stop 
to as high as it would go in fifth  (only about 7grand - I have hit redline 
before in fifth even after I went 2 teeth smaller in the back).  About 500 
short of redline in both second and third gears the bike lost power, again 
like either the fuel or the spark was killed. I am off tomorrow so I am 
going to check the compression, fuel flow, plug wires, timing, and anything 
else the factory manual suggests.  Before I get knee deep ion elbow grease I 
would GREATLY appreciate any hints or maybe tidbits of info anyone may have 
(any similar problems out there?)  

Thanks TONS


Steve  '89 700cc 

Incidentally, I have changed the air/fuel, needles, and main jets and have 
come to the conclusion that this is not the problem (I spent a lot of time 
chasing my tail!!!)



------------------------------

From CLMartinCo@aol.com Tue Sep  5 20:39 PDT 1995
Subject: Hawk GT Disscussion Mailing List

Hello,

I would like to receive the Hawk GT E-mail.  Please forgive me if I sound a
little stupid, but this is my second day on the Internet.  I currently race a
CBR600 in AMA, but I'm getting a little tired of it and am thinking about
switching to the Hawk GT.  I would really like to hear the thoughts of other
racers.

Curt Martin
CLMartinCo@AOL.COM


------------------------------

From DFJL@aol.com Tue Sep  5 20:41 PDT 1995
Subject: CBR900RR Shock Conversion

For Sale : CBR900RR shock, Modified to fit the Hawk.  Very low miles on the
CBR, about 200 miles on the Hawk.

Yes, it offers greater adjustability, and improved ride, but at the cost of
indreased ride height.  I say 'cost' because I'm 5' 5" and although the
increased ride height in the rear does improve handling, the awkward
stoplight scenes and sidestand lean, and disbility of the centerstand are too
much for me to accept.  I'm a recreational rider, not a racer by any means,
and I swapped the Hawk stock shock back into the bike.

If anyone wants to make me an offer, it's already modified to fit the Hawk.
 I can swap the spring for you if you like (you send me your spring).

E-Mail direct to DFJL@aol.com

I'm still looking for a shock that doesn't increase ride height at all ( Fox
told me theirs increases by 1/8 inch ).  Until then.......

Personal to JimDuc916 :  If you get this and don't see it on the list, please
post for me, I'm not getting to frank or hawkgt lately.....Thanks

dave


------------------------------

From alan@wana.pbrc.Hawaii.Edu Tue Sep  5 20:52 PDT 1995
Subject: 900rr shock -initial impressions

After much investigation on what sort of rear suspension remedies were
available (and at what cost)  I decided that a modified CBR900RR shock
would best suit my needs.  I just installed it over the Labor Day weekend
and here are my initial impressions...

Ride height --  Well, the first thing I noticed was that the 900RR shock
raises the the entire back end a few inches.  Before, at a standstill, I
could easily flatfoot on the Hawk and still have room to wiggle the bike
underneath me, not anymore. Now I'm barely able to touch my heels on the
pavement.  This probally would not be such a good thing for anyone shorter
than myself (I'm about 5' 8.5") but then again you don't impress anyone by
wiggling your bike at stoplights...  

Ride quality --  This is great.  Before I always felt as if the front
didn't feel "planted" it almost felt too light.   Now it feels planted and
very sturdy and I didn't lose any of the "light handling" feel of the bike.
 Turning feels better, and the back dosen't seems to squat and wallow about
when I do anything abrupt with the throttle.  Wish I could tell you more
about cornering and high speed sweepers but I haven't any time to squid-out
yet.  But I can tell you about how it handles in everyday traffic on and
off the freeway.  It feels awesome.  Under hard acceleration the back end
won't squat, the same goes for roll-ons on the freeway.  Ripples and
potholes no longer send the back flopping about.  Speedbumps also seem less
severe too.

Braking --  Stopping power remains the same if not better.  Because the
back sits a bit higher I seem to think the fork "dives" more but also
because the back feels more stable I tend to use the back brake more to
achieve shorter stops.   Basically I feather the rear brake more than
before I had the 900RR shock.  I never used the back brake much before
because the back-end always felt kinda skitterish and would upset the
suspension if I was less-than-delicate with my right foot.

Packing -- My passenger likes the improved ride.  I don't think my
passenger and I managed to bottom-out the shock but then again we weren't
going very fast.  I might even go as far as to call it comfy (almost).  

Overall --  It makes a BIG difference.  Much MUCH improved ride, braking
and load carrying capabilities. Cost?  About $190 for everything.  About
165 for a modified shock flown to Honolulu. Add in another 25  bucks for a
shop to remove the spring off the old shock and place onto the 900rr shock.
 My biggest problem was actually finding somebody selling a CBR900rr shock
and finding a place to mount the remote resivior.  I ended up using a hose
clamp to hold it onto the master cylinder of the rear brake.  The remote
resivior is secure and the hose linking it to the shock isn't bent at an
awkward angle.

Well, thats it.  Thanks to JimDuc916 for his help and for finding me that
shock.  I hope that helped.  
Alan



------------------------------

From AMamet@aol.com Tue Sep  5 21:02 PDT 1995
Subject: Stoopid,stoopid mistake !!!!!

I made the stoopid move of trying to take off with my masterlock still locked
onto my front disc.  As you probably figured out by now the bracket
completely  cracked about an inch from where it bolts onto the forks.  Does
anyone have this part or know where I can get one.
Please call anytime 212-966-3940 or page 800-225-0256 pin # 314821 or E-mail.
(Manhattan)

                                                           A Mamet@aol.com 


------------------------------

From dkopacz@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu Tue Sep  5 21:17 PDT 1995
Subject: Hawk questions

1.  Has anyone put the Two Bros. fairing kit? Was it easy to assemble? Also
if you
    got the solo rear section whats the comfort like?

2.  I'd like to put some more racing-like wheels on mine. I have seen some up at
    Elkhart Lake with Technomagneso and Marvic wheels. What kind of $$$$ am I
    lookn' at.


------------------------------------------------------------------------------
David G. Kopacz                                        89' Honda Hawk GT ~ Red
Brown Deer, WI



dkopacz@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu
HawkRC31@aol.com
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--




------------------------------

From LMccrumb@aol.com Tue Sep  5 23:00 PDT 1995
Subject: Subscription

Please accept my request to be added to your mailing list.  Thank you.


------------------------------

From heaven@pogo.den.mmc.com Wed Sep  6 04:17 PDT 1995
Subject: Wheel cost

> Subject: Hawk questions
> 
> 1.  Has anyone put the Two Bros. fairing kit? Was it easy to assemble? Also
> if you
>     got the solo rear section whats the comfort like?
> 
> 2.  I'd like to put some more racing-like wheels on mine. I have seen some up at
>     Elkhart Lake with Technomagneso and Marvic wheels. What kind of $$$$ am I
>     lookn' at.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> David G. Kopacz                                        89' Honda Hawk GT ~ Red
> Brown Deer, WI


     My RC31 solo tail from Air Tech has a small HRC seat pad on it
     which works great for racing bit would be just a little
     harsh for the street.

     I run a CBR1000 front wheel on my Hawk with custom spacers to
     get good front rubber to fit properly.  A pair of techno wheels
     run about $1400.

     Brian Heaven


------------------------------

From rayvenom@vnet.net Wed Sep  6 06:11 PDT 1995

Subscibe to Hawk newsletter


------------------------------

From Danny.Coady@NCR.OTTWPO.dfo-mpo.x400.gc.ca Wed Sep  6 06:55 PDT 1995
Subject: Jet kit

I'm looking to install a jet kit in my 89 Hawk GT.

Here's what I've got at the moment.

Intake:     Uni-Filter individual filters
Exhaust:  SuperTrapp - Open end cap

My local dealer suggested a DynoJet kit but wasn't sure if it worked well with the individual filters.

Any suggestions ?  Anything to stay away from ?

All assistance appreciated


Danny...

89' Red
Danny.Coady@ncr.ottwpo.dfo-mpo.x400.gc.ca
613-998-7998


------------------------------

From Danny.Coady@NCR.OTTWPO.dfo-mpo.x400.gc.ca Wed Sep  6 08:16 PDT 1995
Subject: Jet kit

Frank - Could you please let me know if you receive the following message twice.  I have sent a number of things to the Hawk GT group (including an apology for my stupid auto reply when on vacation) and haven't seen any of my messages (or seen any replies).

I am using the following address to post to the group. HawkGT@dsea.com.  Are my messages making it ?


Thanks
Dan...   


>Message sent to group<

I'm looking to install a jet kit in my 89 Hawk GT.

Here's what I've got at the moment.

Intake:     Uni-Filter individual filters
Exhaust:  SuperTrapp - Open end cap

My local dealer suggested a DynoJet kit but wasn't sure if it worked well with the individual filters.

Any suggestions ?  Anything to stay away from ?

All assistance appreciated


Danny...

89' Red
Danny.Coady@ncr.ottwpo.dfo-mpo.x400.gc.ca
613-998-7998


------------------------------

From CABethel@aol.com Wed Sep  6 12:16 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: rear click

David Macintosh posted the following message & reply:
>> How does one adjust the centerstand if it is?

>I've got a Supertrapp on mine, and it might have a special piece or two
>for the centerstand (sorry, it came with the bike, and I've never compared
>it to stock).  On my bike, there is simply a bolt on the left (non-exhaust)
>side of the bike that you can loosen/tighten and adjust the centerstand
>stop (the little arm with the rubber stopper on it).  Again, this might be
>a part from supertrapp, and not stock, but I _think_ it is a stock part.

>out how to adjust the angle myself short of relying on the friction of the
>mounting bolt.  I will probably have it bent or a nut welded on to take an 
>adjusting screw.

If the stop is the same that came with my Supertrapp several years ago, there
is a notch in it that will take a simple bolt, perpendicular to the stop,
snugged up by nuts on either side. Pick a bolt of suitable length and the
stop is prevented from rotating upward & allowing centerstand to do the same.
No welding or fancy stuff required. Has worked well without adjustment for me
for the last 10,000 miles.


------------------------------

From Munkijones@aol.com Wed Sep  6 13:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Please add me to the list

Please add me to the hawk mailing list. thank you.


------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Wed Sep  6 13:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Jet kit

On Wed, 6 Sep 1995 Danny.Coady@ncr.ottwpo.dfo-mpo.x400.gc.ca wrote:

> I'm looking to install a jet kit in my 89 Hawk GT.
> 
> Here's what I've got at the moment.
> 
> Intake:     Uni-Filter individual filters
> Exhaust:  SuperTrapp - Open end cap
> 
> My local dealer suggested a DynoJet kit but wasn't sure if it worked well with the individual filters.
> 
Trust me on this one (Back me up, Brian H.) . . .

The Dynojet kit does not work worth a damn with individual filters; it 
barely worked worth a damn with the airbox on.  I installed the Factory 
this weekend and immediately all my tro0ubles disappeared.

Incidentally, kweep in mind that Factory maintain a 1-800 tech line to 
help you tune the thing, while Dynojet makes you pay to hear, "We don't 
support that configuration."

C ya
DC

P.S.- when I'm done paying with it, I"ll post the settings.  The bike 
will be on a dyno the weeknd of 9/15, and I"ll post results for the 
following configs:
   
1) Supertrapp pipe, closed end, Factory Ti 3.0- sound output 100 dB.
2) Trapp, open end cap, Factory kit- sound output 110 dB.

DC



------------------------------

From ehofmann@freenet.vcu.edu Wed Sep  6 16:30 PDT 1995
Subject: Am I off the list?



Is anybody out there?
Did I get kicked off the list?
Was it something I said? :)

Ed
89' Red


------------------------------

From scutchin@vt.edu Wed Sep  6 20:15 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Jet kit

>On Wed, 6 Sep 1995 Danny.Coady@ncr.ottwpo.dfo-mpo.x400.gc.ca wrote:
>
>> I'm looking to install a jet kit in my 89 Hawk GT.
>> 
>> Here's what I've got at the moment.
>> 
>> Intake:     Uni-Filter individual filters
>> Exhaust:  SuperTrapp - Open end cap
>> 
>> My local dealer suggested a DynoJet kit but wasn't sure if it worked well 
with the individual filters.
>> 
>Trust me on this one (Back me up, Brian H.) . . .
>
>The Dynojet kit does not work worth a damn with individual filters; it 
>barely worked worth a damn with the airbox on.  I installed the Factory 
>this weekend and immediately all my tro0ubles disappeared.
>
>Incidentally, kweep in mind that Factory maintain a 1-800 tech line to 
>help you tune the thing, while Dynojet makes you pay to hear, "We don't 
>support that configuration."
>
>C ya
>DC
>
>P.S.- when I'm done paying with it, I"ll post the settings.  The bike 
>will be on a dyno the weeknd of 9/15, and I"ll post results for the 
>following configs:
>   
>1) Supertrapp pipe, closed end, Factory Ti 3.0- sound output 100 dB.
>2) Trapp, open end cap, Factory kit- sound output 110 dB.
>
>DC
>
>
I agree also.  I had a Dynojet kit  and also traded it in on a Factory 3.0 
BUT now Dynojet has a Stage 7 kit out.  I have no idea how it differs from 
the stage 1 but I do know I would investigate the matter before I purchased 
ANYTHING.

Steve  '89 700cc



------------------------------

From WhiteWorm@aol.com Wed Sep  6 20:54 PDT 1995
Subject: Carbs?

   I ride my '89 Hawk every day and recently I've noticed a slight drop in
power.  It's getting a little sluggish in the low rpms and I'll rev all the
way up to 7500 and not get that great power surge at 5500 like I did before.
 Also, when I downshift the bike tends to not decelerate as quickly as it
did.  On my old bike (Yamaha Maxim 750, air cooled, in-line four, four carbs,
i.e. Chevrolet Impala of motorcycles) this meant that the carbs were out of
sync.  Do the Hawk's carbs get out of sync?  I figured that the odds on two
carbs getting out of sync. was a lot less than the odds on four... ...but who
plays the odds?  NT650s are odd.  They rule, though!  
   a) Do I need a tune up?  
   b) Can I do it myself?  
   c) Why does the chain tighten up so much when I compress the rear shock?
 I never know how tight to set it.  
   d) I'm running a stock pipe, should I get a 2bros.?  Real men/women don't
pop wheelies...       they ride wheelies.  need more power--

  I was at the races in Hallett, OK a couple of months ago and saw this guy
racing a orange and yellow Hawk with this open-megaphone pipe from ACE racing
in Houston, TX.  Have you heard of ACE racing?  This pipe was very, very loud
but oh so sweet.  If anyone on this list has never heard a Hawk with a loud
racing pipe you are missing out on the most primal, sinister, beautiful sound
known to humankind.  Word.

This is my first post and I am venting a whole year of Hawk excitement,
Duke


------------------------------

From Hairbag@aol.com Thu Sep  7 04:27 PDT 1995
Subject: 916 Style Exhaust

I just got some E-Mail from Craig Erion regarding making a 916 style exhaust
system for a HawkGT. His response was more positive than I expected, and said
the system would cost in the vicinity of $500.00 (does that include carbon
fiber canisters Craig??). With a minimum of 25 orders (deposits if you
please) he will do it.

Any takers??  He can certainly sign me up.


------------------------------

From etlgyas@etlxdmx.ericsson.se Thu Sep  7 04:33 PDT 1995
Subject: Tales from the Bros


Hi there

I used to have a big hole, on the lhs of the rear axle (sitting on the
bike), and all the photos of Hawks and "Brosi" also have a hole here.

I ordered the plastic cap from my local Honda dealer, who got me the
part in two days (even though it's a grey import in the UK, all we got
was the shaft driven Revere and NTV650), at the highly reasonable cost
of £8.62....... $15?

I've also just ordered a VFR750 C spanner (£8.35), as the C spanner in
my tool kit nowhere near fits the chain adjuster, although it fits the
rear preload adjuster quite snugly.

I took the black belly pan off and fitted the mainstand too, although
hopefully with a bit of help from Mr.Grinder with the 'pan mounting
brackets both will go on in peaceful and harmonious co-existance. At the
moment the mainstand is the priority, tho' I may be persuaded into a
'94 NSR125 fairing if I can find one.  They're fairly rare because not
many people pay £3500 for a 125 ($6000?).

My front brake is crap, the rear FAR more effective, maybe the caliper
needs some attention after two years of British salt?

Head bearings are clicking, and I've heard people tell tales of woe wrt
head bearings and Hawks, but never on this list.  Any comments?

I have a Scottoiler, but I'm not sure whether to fit it or not.  Any
comments from Scottoilers out there? Dirty wheels not a problem, as 
mine have been painted gloss black (on a black bike with gold disc
rotors - yum), but having to fill it every 1000 miles will piss me off,
I'd rather keep on with the PJ-1 (best chain lube in the world BTW).

But, it's the best bike I've ever owned, and I love it to bits*. If
anyone has a scanner I'll try and get the "Grey Bike" Bros650 review
and piccies of a Revere scanned, and piccies of my bike up on Beachy
Head or something.

Geoff./

*apart from when it started rattling HORRIBLY last night, and then became
quite again when run two hours later.  Odd.  Cam chain tensioner?
 
  #==================================#==================================#
  | Geoff Adams, Tel: (01444) 234191 |   DOD #1481    |    MAG #88198   |
  |   etlgyas@etlxdmx.ericsson.se    |             OGRI too!!           |
  +----------------------------------+----------------------------------+
  |   Hey!, Even I Don't Know What I'm Saying, Why Should Ericsson's?   |
  +----------------------------------+----------------------------------+
  |               Now :-             |            Has been :-           |
  | '88 Honda NT650J "Bros" - Black  |  XJ600S, XT600E, XS250, H100SII  |
  #==================================#==================================#


------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Thu Sep  7 07:27 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: 916 Style Exhaust

     Well, I'm a little skeptical...I'd hate to put money down for a
     pipe that had poorer performance than other pipes (TBR, MVR, etc).
     After all, form does not always go with function.
     
     Besides, I don't even know how it would work (clearance for rear
     tire, some sort of rear fender/license plate bracket conversion,
     etc.).  I'm interested, and would be willing to put money down
     if Craig could publish/guarantee specs on fitting/performance.
     
     Jeff


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: 916 Style Exhaust
Author:  Hairbag@aol.com at INTERNET
Date:    9/7/95 4:41 AM


I just got some E-Mail from Craig Erion regarding making a 916 style exhaust 
system for a HawkGT. His response was more positive than I expected, and said 
the system would cost in the vicinity of $500.00 (does that include carbon 
fiber canisters Craig??). With a minimum of 25 orders (deposits if you 
please) he will do it.
     
Any takers??  He can certainly sign me up.



------------------------------

From tschorer@mbl.edu Thu Sep  7 07:42 PDT 1995
Subject: test, is this thing on??

REPLY TO: tschorer@mbl.edu

Is the list still operative?


------------------------------

From bkrett@holly.ColoState.EDU Thu Sep  7 08:43 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Chain and survey


	Two things I was intrested in discussing. First, has anybody on 
the group done a survey of what people are riding, what modifications 
have been done to their bikes and where they live? I am fairly new to this 
group and haven't seen one in the few months that I have been on it. If  
people are intrested I would be willing to figure in the data for such a 
survey. 
	The second thing was from a letter discussing oiling your chain. 
I had always understood that a sealed chain; one with the bearing lubed 
and sealed with o-rings had the lubricating oil contained in the chain 
itself. For this reason there wasn't as much of a need to lube the chain 
for friction reduction, rather the reason that the chain should be lubed 
is to keep the chain free of road grime and as a rust inhibitor. I wonder 
what you guys (and gals) think of this method?

						Brian Krett
						MRA#139
						88' Hawk blue 


------------------------------

From mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil Thu Sep  7 09:11 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: 916 Style Exhaust

>I just got some E-Mail from Craig Erion regarding making a 916 style exhaust
>system for a HawkGT. His response was more positive than I expected, and said
>the system would cost in the vicinity of $500.00 (does that include carbon
>fiber canisters Craig??). With a minimum of 25 orders (deposits if you
>please) he will do it.

I have been wishing for this, too, but what sort of rear subframe and cowling
would it require?  I imagine it'd be pretty hard to fit in with the stock
bodywork, probably easier with TBR RC31 stuff.

David Mackintosh      '82 245 Turbo  '92 Sovereign  '95 Moda  '89 Hawk GT
mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil         Germantown, MD, USA          DoD #1360



------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Thu Sep  7 09:12 PDT 1995
Subject: Re[2]: Chain and survey

     I've spoken with _good_ mechanics and my dealer who talked to the
     chain rep.  There is no need to oil a good o-ring chain.  The
     lubrication is already sealed in.  I have not oiled my chain in
     years with no adverse affects.  My mechanic does not oil his chain
     and he still gets 15-20k miles out of them.  When I weigh the cost
     of a chain ($60 for the new RK I just bought) vs. the cost of my
     time cleaning up the grime on the rear wheel (thrown from the oiled
     chain), it makes the decision even easier.  I do occasionally
     clean any accumulated grime off the chain.
     
     Jeff


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Chain and survey
Author:  Brian Krett  at INTERNET
Date:    9/7/95 8:59 AM


     
 Two things I was intrested in discussing. First, has anybody on 
the group done a survey of what people are riding, what modifications 
have been done to their bikes and where they live? I am fairly new to this 
group and haven't seen one in the few months that I have been on it. If  
people are intrested I would be willing to figure in the data for such a 
survey. 
 The second thing was from a letter discussing oiling your chain. 
I had always understood that a sealed chain; one with the bearing lubed 
and sealed with o-rings had the lubricating oil contained in the chain 
itself. For this reason there wasn't as much of a need to lube the chain 
for friction reduction, rather the reason that the chain should be lubed 
is to keep the chain free of road grime and as a rust inhibitor. I wonder 
what you guys (and gals) think of this method?
     
      Brian Krett
      MRA#139
      88' Hawk blue 



------------------------------

From mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil Thu Sep  7 09:24 PDT 1995
Subject: Ignition advancers

A Hawk rider at a local shock has offered to sell me his ignition 
advancer (+4 deg.).  He says it helped the low to midrange power
on his stock engine but that after building the motor (3mm over, 
11.5:1, oversized valves, porting, uni filters, TBR pipe, blah, blah) 
he thought it was not beneficial.  My motor is stock except for 
Supertrapp pipe although I will be jetting it soon.  

I commute on the bike and am most interested in low-mid rpm tract-
ability.  Are there any disadvantages to using an advancer?  Does
it make sense that it would help a stock motor but not a built one?

David Mackintosh      '82 245 Turbo  '92 Sovereign  '95 Moda  '89 Hawk GT
mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil         Germantown, MD, USA          DoD #1360



------------------------------

From danac@leland.Stanford.EDU Thu Sep  7 10:19 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: your mail

On Thu, 7 Sep 1995, Frank Evan Perdicaro wrote:

> 
> In response to a few queries I have dug this out of the archives.
> This IS NOT up to date, except for my entry.
> 
> Somebody should take charge, modify this list and send it back to me.
> 
> 	--FEP 
> 
> #######################################################
> 
> >From stk1000%thor@thor.stockton.edu  Wed Aug 10 17:42:27 1994
> Subject: ALL: HawkGT Owner Info Database
> 
> 
> 
> Fill in the template below so that your info can be included in
> the Hawk owners database.  The information is used for no other
> purpose than to give each Hawk owner a list of there brothers
> and sisters.
> 
> Send additions/updates directly to me at  < stk1000@thor.stockton.edu >
> Do -not- send it to the list.
> 
> (all info is not required, but nice.. fill in what you like)
> -----
>  Name: Dana Clarke
>   Loc: Palo Alto (Shallow Alto) CA 
>  Mail: danac@leland.stanford.edu
> Phone: (home: 415 473-0424)  (work: Work.Phone)
>  Bike: 89 Hawk (Red)
>      Mods: Progressive Springs Front
>  Comm:Shiny side up...  Its the shiny side that stays up!
> -----


------------------------------

From greaney@ee.unr.edu Thu Sep  7 10:40 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: your mail


Frank et al:

I volunteered to do the survey for the list, so I guess I could take it
from here.  PLEASE, do not send any to me yet.  I'll post specific
instructions on what to say and how to say it when I get a chance.


C-ya,

Mike
--
Mike Nielsen       e: greaney@unr.edu       v: 702.784.4752


------------------------------

From danb@pobox.com Thu Sep  7 10:42 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: hawkgt owner database


hi Frank,
If you remember I started that database of hawkgt owners.. I lapsed for a while
and noone complained so I didn't think it was of much use.

If there is a need for I don't mind doing it.. I'd like too.

Just let me know if I should start it up again.

Dan Bullock

>In response to a few queries I have dug this out of the archives.
>This IS NOT up to date, except for my entry.

>Somebody should take charge, modify this list and send it back to me.

>	--FEP 
-------------
Dan Bullock
-------------



------------------------------

From bennetta@axis.Colorado.EDU Thu Sep  7 11:01 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Chain and survey

On Thu, 7 Sep 1995, Jeff Leveroni wrote:

>      I've spoken with _good_ mechanics and my dealer who talked to the
>      chain rep.  There is no need to oil a good o-ring chain.  The
>      lubrication is already sealed in.  I have not oiled my chain in
>      years with no adverse affects.  My mechanic does not oil his chain

I have two o-ring chains (for two bikes), and although I do not oil them 
often, I do oil them because the rust otherwise.  I have been told that there
is no need to oil them, but if I don't do it once a month, the rust 
starts.  FWIW, I used to use PJ-1 blue, but I now use Chain Wax which flings
much less (almost not at all) if used according to the can directions.

Adam



------------------------------

From fridrich@interlog.com Thu Sep  7 11:48 PDT 1995
Subject: Request for Info

Could you please send me a short info on your hawkgt mailing list (including
the subscription and posting addresses).

Thank you!

Jerry Fridrich
fridrich@interlog.com



------------------------------

From ronrad@microsoft.com Thu Sep  7 13:01 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: 916 Style Exhaust



 ----------
From: 	Hairbag@aol.com[SMTP:Hairbag@aol.com]

I just got some E-Mail from Craig Erion regarding making a 916 style   exhaust
system for a HawkGT. His response was more positive than I expected, and   said
the system would cost in the vicinity of $500.00 (does that include   carbon
fiber canisters Craig??). With a minimum of 25 orders (deposits if you
please) he will do it.

Any takers??  He can certainly sign me up.

I'd be more interested in that kind of setup for the VFR  ...

Ron




#
begin 666 WINMAIL.DAT
M>)\^(@L``0B`!P`8````25!-+DUI8W)O``@0`0```&4`
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G``,`$!```````P`1$``````>`#T``0````4```!213H@`````,,#
`
end
#


------------------------------

From scutchin@vt.edu Thu Sep  7 14:47 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Carbs?

>   I ride my '89 Hawk every day and recently I've noticed a slight drop in
>power.  It's getting a little sluggish in the low rpms and I'll rev all the
>way up to 7500 and not get that great power surge at 5500 like I did before.
> Also, when I downshift the bike tends to not decelerate as quickly as it
>did.  On my old bike (Yamaha Maxim 750, air cooled, in-line four, four carbs,
>i.e. Chevrolet Impala of motorcycles) this meant that the carbs were out of
>sync.  Do the Hawk's carbs get out of sync?  I figured that the odds on two
>carbs getting out of sync. was a lot less than the odds on four... ...but who
>plays the odds?  NT650s are odd.  They rule, though!  
>   a) Do I need a tune up?  
>   b) Can I do it myself?  
>   c) Why does the chain tighten up so much when I compress the rear shock?
> I never know how tight to set it.  
>   d) I'm running a stock pipe, should I get a 2bros.?  Real men/women don't
>pop wheelies...       they ride wheelies.  need more power--
>
>  I was at the races in Hallett, OK a couple of months ago and saw this guy
>racing a orange and yellow Hawk with this open-megaphone pipe from ACE racing
>in Houston, TX.  Have you heard of ACE racing?  This pipe was very, very loud
>but oh so sweet.  If anyone on this list has never heard a Hawk with a loud
>racing pipe you are missing out on the most primal, sinister, beautiful sound
>known to humankind.  Word.

a) You probably need to do some minor maintenance like cleaning out the 
carbs, but a tune up never hurts.

b) OF COURSE you do the tune up yourself (plugs, clean the air filter, 
oil/filter change).  Syncing the carbs requires carb sticks though, they run 
about $40 for an economy set.  I plan on purchasing some myself REAL soon, 
if you can wait I'll post how the job went

c) The chain tightens because the distance between the front sprocket and 
rear axle change as the swingarm is rotated (notice that the swingarm bolt 
is not directly in line with the countershaft and rear sprockets.)  None of 
this really matters, though because you check the chain while the bike is on 
the center stand.

d)  I personally think the stock system, excluding the headers, stinks.  I 
have a 2Bros system (headers and canister) and you should know that the 
header diameter is larger, meaning better flow for top end BUT reduced 
bottom and midrange(which is prime wheelie territory!)  I would probably get 
a replacement canister, maybe a D&D.  If you go 2Bros be prepared to rejet.

Finally, yes I have heard Hawks with unmuffled canisters and they are the 
closest thing to a Nascar you will ever hear.  Pure music to the ears but 
boy will your neighbors be pissed!!  I took the fiberglass and the 
perforated core out of the canister of a Kerker system I had and fired up 
the bike and nearly blew my buddy (who was standing almost directly behind) 
into the next county!!  Wonderful, but 
ABSOLUTELY-NO-WAY-NEVER-YOU-COULDN'T-GET-50 FEET-WITHOUT-GETTING-A-TICKET 
not for the street!!!!

Welcome,

Steve '89 700cc



------------------------------

From bkrett@holly.ColoState.EDU Thu Sep  7 16:15 PDT 1995
Subject: Amsoil & Redline dangerous (fwd)

Subject: Amsoil & Redline dangerous

After doing quite a bit of reading and talking to several
people that have been around the lubes called Redline and 
Amsoil.  I found some very interesting things 

1)  A number of years ago quite a few people used Amsoil
in their VW.  Amsoil eat the brass components of the 
transaxle.  This in fact occurred in all gearboxs with
brass components.  Redline also has this problem currently.

2)  Amsoil has fixed the problem of their oil eating brass.  
On their bottle it stated now safe for VW.  However, Porsche
gearboxes have some other metal that is being eaten away by
the new Amsoil formula.  Porsche shops and other individuals
sware by Swepco oils!!!  

3) A relative of mine that designs gearboxes for industrial
applications has had problems with sin. oils eating brass components.

4) What does this have to do with 2 strokes.  Do not use
sin. oils in any areas where you have exotic metals or brass 
components.

Later



------------------------------

From ehofmann@freenet.vcu.edu Thu Sep  7 16:47 PDT 1995
Subject: sign me back up!



I seem to be disconected. Please put me back on the list.
Thanks...


------------------------------

From greaney@ee.unr.edu Thu Sep  7 16:48 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Amsoil & Redline dangerous (fwd)

> 
> Subject: Amsoil & Redline dangerous
> 
> After doing quite a bit of reading and talking to several
> people that have been around the lubes called Redline and 
> Amsoil.  I found some very interesting things 
> 
> 1)  A number of years ago quite a few people used Amsoil
> in their VW.  Amsoil eat the brass components of the 
> transaxle.  This in fact occurred in all gearboxs with
> brass components.  Redline also has this problem currently.

VW's have lots of problems.  Gearboxes are basically consumables
in a bug or bug like vehicle! ;-)

> 2)  Amsoil has fixed the problem of their oil eating brass.  
> On their bottle it stated now safe for VW.  However, Porsche
> gearboxes have some other metal that is being eaten away by
> the new Amsoil formula.  Porsche shops and other individuals
> sware by Swepco oils!!!  

Never heard of Swepco.  Anyone else?

> 3) A relative of mine that designs gearboxes for industrial
> applications has had problems with sin. oils eating brass components.

Does this apply to all synth oils?

> 4) What does this have to do with 2 strokes.  Do not use
> sin. oils in any areas where you have exotic metals or brass 
> components.

OK, here's the major question:  There are LOTS of us who run Mobil 1
in our Hawks, soooo..... are we destroying our bikes?  Mine isn't showing
signs of excessive wear, although it's running like a turkey when
cold (been 40F here in the mornings lately).  Since Mobil 1 is a synth,
I'd like to know if I should switch back to regular old dinosaur juice
to preserve my lil Hawk.


C-ya,

Mike


------------------------------

From JPlott@aol.com Thu Sep  7 17:31 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Jet kit

Stay away from Dynojet kit.  The PR from Dynojet  is way mis-leading.  It
will not work with the pod filters....and do not drill the equalizer holes in
the slides.  The help you can get from the company is zero- minus...I use the
minus because they don't want to help and make you feel like an idiot in the
proccess.

Factory kits work and the folks at the 800 number will talk you through
everything you need.

John


------------------------------

From JPlott@aol.com Thu Sep  7 17:52 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: New arrival

Craig,
     A little compromise needed....we  would never make it, without paying
for a psychiatrist,  without your catalogue...we need our Hawk fix-es!  

I am about to get the HRC carb kit from you....I never have been able to get
the stock carbs working right after drilling the slides etc. for the Dynojet
kit.

John


------------------------------

From JPlott@aol.com Thu Sep  7 17:56 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Am I off the list?

Ed, 89 Red- - - No....No....Maybe!

John


------------------------------

From Kenneth.Lawas@analog.com Thu Sep  7 19:06 PDT 1995

Subject: RE: Amsoil...

  Although I've only put 30K on my bikes using Mobil 1,
  like most people I've had no problems with the oil.

  From what I've read, Mobil 1 is a manufactured oil,
  but has the same hydrocarbon makeup as naturally
  occurring oil.  The benefit is in the purity and
  consistency of the stuff.  Like all oils, synths have
  additives for various reasons.  Its probably these
  additives that can make an oil "eat brass."  What
  could they possibly do to a hydrocarbon chain to consume
  brass?

  Anyway, I believe Mobil's claims for the oil, and I'd
  take some confidence in the fact that its been used
  by the military and NASA, deep sea to outer space.

  My OPINION.  Wish I had the facts.  -Ken





------------------------------

From JimDuc916@aol.com Thu Sep  7 21:19 PDT 1995
Subject: CBR900 Shock FOR SALE!!!

Come one, come another (not all--I've only got two of these puppies)
I have a pair of coveted CBR900RRRRRRR rear shocks, awaiting your
modification and hawk spring to vastly improve your ride!  I can even be
persuaded to do the mod for you, for an additional nominal fee.  I would like
$125 a piece for them, and an additional $25 for modifying the top mounting
boss to fit the hawk.  You;ve got to swap the spring, though....
lemme know!!!
jimduc916@aol.com
716-688-4768
I also have LOTS (that is way too much) hawk stuff--if you've got needs, let
me know, maybe I can help, usually I sell stuff quite inexpensively.
thanks,
ciao,
jimd


------------------------------

From AMamet@aol.com Thu Sep  7 21:55 PDT 1995
Subject: In need of parts

I am searching for a used instrument panel for my '89 Hawk.  Also I am
looking for a set of rear pegs.  Please E-mail back or call 212-966-3940
(Manhattan).

                                                         A Mamet@aol.com 


------------------------------

From tbrking@netvoyage.net Thu Sep  7 22:08 PDT 1995
Subject: Cool Place

Hey, this place is alright!




------------------------------

From danac@leland.Stanford.EDU Thu Sep  7 22:17 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: CBR900 Shock FOR SALE!!!

On Fri, 8 Sep 1995 JimDuc916@aol.com wrote:

> Come one, come another (not all--I've only got two of these puppies)
> I have a pair of coveted CBR900RRRRRRR rear shocks, awaiting your
> modification and hawk spring to vastly improve your ride!  I can even be
> persuaded to do the mod for you, for an additional nominal fee.  I would like
> $125 a piece for them, and an additional $25 for modifying the top mounting
> boss to fit the hawk.  You;ve got to swap the spring, though....
> lemme know!!!
> jimduc916@aol.com
> 716-688-4768
> I also have LOTS (that is way too much) hawk stuff--if you've got needs, let
> me know, maybe I can help, usually I sell stuff quite inexpensively.
> thanks,
> ciao,
> jimd
> 
I do alot of commuting on my hawk - anybody know of hard luggage that you 
can get for the thing?  Tank bags scratch, soft saddle bags melt and get 
broken into if you leave them unattended.

Dana


------------------------------

From vlj@hpfcvlj.fc.hp.com Fri Sep  8 06:51 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Jet kit


 Yo Hawkers,

> Stay away from Dynojet kit.  The PR from Dynojet  is way mis-leading.  It
> will not work with the pod filters....

 Odd.  I've got the Dynojet kit in my Hawk along with UNI pod filters with
 drilled equalizer holes and the whole setup is working spot on for me.
 Then again, this is at 7-12,000' elevation too ...

 Cheers,                                  @                                  
 Victor Johnson                      ... #%\                                 
 ________________________________________O^_O________________________________
       Workstation Systems Division            Hewlett Packard               
       Graphics Software Lab                   3404 East Harmony Road        
       (303/T)-229-6759                        Fort Collins, CO 80525        
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------


------------------------------

From gofast@mailhost.panix.com Fri Sep  8 07:26 PDT 1995
Subject:       Re: Cool Place

> Date:          Thu, 7 Sep 1995 21:23:46 -0800
> To:            hawkgt@dsea.com
> From:          tbrking@netvoyage.net (Craig Erion)
> Subject:       Cool Place

> Hey, this place is alright!
> 
Glad you like it, and I'm sure I speak for everyone in saying we're 
glad you made it......  So, uh, about those discounts on left hand 
exhausts and stuff....

brad

btw, you ride a hawk?


------------------------------

From gofast@mailhost.panix.com Fri Sep  8 07:26 PDT 1995
Subject:       Re: CBR900 Shock FOR SALE!!!

> From:          JimDuc916@aol.com
> Date:          Fri, 8 Sep 1995 00:27:44 -0400
> To:            hawkgt@dsea.com
> Subject:       CBR900 Shock FOR SALE!!!

> Come one, come another (not all--I've only got two of these puppies)
> I have a pair of coveted CBR900RRRRRRR rear shocks

Ooh. Tempted.

Who makes 'em, and has anyone actually compared a Hawk fitted with 
CBR900 shocks and one fitted with the Fox?

drooling,

brad


------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Fri Sep  8 07:56 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Amsoil & Redline dangerous (fwd)

     This guy posted this information to the 2-strokes list yesterday.
     The fact that he posted it to HawkGT and didn't bother to change
     the reference to 2-strokes, _and_ the fact that he never responded
     to a question about *proof* leads me to believe that he just has
     an axe to grind.
     
     Take it someplace else, Brian.
     
     Jeff


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Amsoil & Redline dangerous (fwd)
Author:  Brian Krett  at INTERNET
Date:    9/7/95 4:33 PM


Subject: Amsoil & Redline dangerous
     
After doing quite a bit of reading and talking to several 
people that have been around the lubes called Redline and 
Amsoil.  I found some very interesting things 
     
1)  A number of years ago quite a few people used Amsoil 
in their VW.  Amsoil eat the brass components of the 
transaxle.  This in fact occurred in all gearboxs with
brass components.  Redline also has this problem currently.
     
2)  Amsoil has fixed the problem of their oil eating brass.  
On their bottle it stated now safe for VW.  However, Porsche 
gearboxes have some other metal that is being eaten away by 
the new Amsoil formula.  Porsche shops and other individuals 
sware by Swepco oils!!!  
     
3) A relative of mine that designs gearboxes for industrial 
applications has had problems with sin. oils eating brass components.
     
4) What does this have to do with 2 strokes.  Do not use 
sin. oils in any areas where you have exotic metals or brass 
components.
     
Later
     



------------------------------

From bkrett@holly.ColoState.EDU Fri Sep  8 08:30 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Amsoil & Redline dangerous (fwd)

> OK, here's the major question:  There are LOTS of us who run Mobil 1
> in our Hawks, soooo..... are we destroying our bikes?  Mine isn't showing
> signs of excessive wear, although it's running like a turkey when
> cold (been 40F here in the mornings lately).  Since Mobil 1 is a synth,
> I'd like to know if I should switch back to regular old dinosaur juice
> to preserve my lil Hawk.
> 
	I don't really know (Hope not though). Just was forwarding the posting 
from another mailing list. 
	BTW I am looking for a rear stand for my hawk and was wondering 
what the prices are running for one of them. I am basically looking for 
the best low cost stand out on the market. So what is the vote?
	
					Brian Krett
					MRA#139
					88' Hawk Blue
	


------------------------------

From MotoRon@aol.com Fri Sep  8 08:58 PDT 1995
Subject: un sub

UNSCRIBE HAWKGT 


------------------------------

From tschorer@mbl.edu Fri Sep  8 11:52 PDT 1995
Subject: Motorcycle FS: '90 Honda Hawk GT

Well I've been flirting with the idea (and have finally given into it) of
selling my bike.  The deal I was working with a friend of mine has fallen
through so...

1990 Honda Hawk GT (NT650)
5900 miles
all stock, never down. one owner (purchased new jan 94)
Red (of course!)
excellent condition.
$2500.
Full size eclipse tankbag, cover, helmet (would anyone really want a used
helmet?)
Located on Cape Cod Mass.

If you're interested, know someone who is, or just have a question about
the bike...respond to:
   tschorer@mbl.edu


------------------------------

From Phil_Calvin@unc.edu Fri Sep  8 12:06 PDT 1995
Subject: Am I still on the list???


I haven't received anything in about 2 weeks.  Am I still on the list?  The
address I was using was

mudpuppy@gibbs.oit.unc.edu

The phil_calvin@unc.edu is just an alias for that address.

Please add me back on (either address) if I've been dropped.

Thanks man,
Phil




------------------------------

From mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil Fri Sep  8 12:13 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: CBR900RRRR Shock: Done

>   Adjustment is with a #2 straight screwdriver and the stock spring
>   tool.  All are eaisly accessable.

>   A few notes.  The ground may no longer be where it is supposed to
>   be.  After 15,000 miles of riding at one ride height I was a bit
>   suprised to put out my foot and not find the ground where it had
>   always been.  The side stand is mostly useless, except to keep the
>   centerstand from hitting the chain if you have a Supertrapp.  The
>   seat angle is now different!  One has to go faster to get a good
>   sail effect.  For me it is now an indicated 90mph.  Dips on the
>   highway, Bott's dots and railroad tracks used to be stand up
>   obstacles.  No longer.  Wheelie point is now different.  Leaned over
>   in 1st I cranked the throttle and the front wheel came up.  In
>   traffic on the way to work.  Due to the increased height, it is now
>   impossible for my wife to ride the Hawk in traffic.  I can now mount
>   the bike on the centerstand with just one toe.

Several months ago when someone first mentioned fitting the CBR shock 
they said it would be neccessary to fit a chain roller because of the
increased ride height.  The chain slider on top of the swingarm may wear
out quickly.  That's probably the main reason I went with the Fox; mine
has adjustable ride height.  The disadvantages are the cost, pain in 
adjusting preload, and difficulty in mounting the large resevoir.  The 
preload is infinately adjustable, though, and it did come with its own
spring (pre-load it before you install, though).

Something else that made a _huge_ difference in the handling of my bike:
front end preload.  The PO had installed Progressive fork springs, but
apparantly had not done anything with the preload.  I measured about 
1-5/8" of sag using a zip-tie on the fork (I weigh ~185lb).  I had to add 
about 1-1/4" of spacers to bring the sag down to 1".   I used 1" PVC pipe
(1-3/8" OD, 59 cents/foot) and some big washers to replace the thin-walled
steel spacer tube in the forks.  Use a 17mm 6-point socket to get the caps
off (do one leg at a time!), you may need help getting them back on.  This
really brought down the amount of brake dive and made things more stable 
when transitioning from brakes or trailing throttle going into a turn to WFO 
on the way out.  

The front-end damping still needs help, though.  Any thoughts on a Lindemann
rebuild vs. Race Tech cartridge emulators?

David Mackintosh      '82 245 Turbo  '92 Sovereign  '95 Moda  '89 Hawk GT
mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil         Germantown, MD, USA          DoD #1360



------------------------------

From jamesm@calweb.com Fri Sep  8 12:26 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: CBR900RRRR Shock: Done

On Fri, 8 Sep 1995, David Mackintosh wrote:
> out quickly.  That's probably the main reason I went with the Fox; mine
> has adjustable ride height.  The disadvantages are the cost, pain in 
> adjusting preload, and difficulty in mounting the large resevoir.  The 

Here's a question (for someone new to the list),  how/where did you end
up mounting the Fox reservior?  I ended up putting in on the left-side
passenger peg mount (no passengers, so no problem), but I'm not all that
happy with this.  Mounting it on the frame rail, as Fox recommends, 
doesn't seem like the best setup, either.  There appeared to be too much
stuff in the way to mount it to the subframe.

> The front-end damping still needs help, though.  Any thoughts on a Lindemann
> rebuild vs. Race Tech cartridge emulators?

I can recommend the emulators.  They made quite a difference to my Hawk, and
were easy to install. 


------
james montebello - rider of tupperware, driver of a large body of water 



------------------------------

From JimDuc916@aol.com Fri Sep  8 14:18 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: CBR900RRRR Shock: Done

WELL WRITTEN< FRANK!!!
Question--which toe?  Centerstand mount, that is.
I think that I used a 13/32 bit, and the fit was excellent for drilling out
the top boss.  Milling the boss would be optimal, but clamping it to the bed
is a bit of a pain....but then again, I'm just an amateur machinist....
I told you the shock would be good--
One left, if Danny Coady doesn't snap it up.
ciao,
jimd


------------------------------

From Bob_Cady-G12170@email.mot.com Fri Sep  8 17:24 PDT 1995
Subject: G12170@EMAIL.MOT.COM

     G12170@EMAIL.MOT.COM


------------------------------

From JPlott@aol.com Fri Sep  8 18:36 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: 916 Style Exhaust

Count me in!

John


------------------------------

From JPlott@aol.com Fri Sep  8 18:42 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Chain and survey

Brian,

     The main reason to lube an "O" ring chain is tto lube the contact
between the chain and sprockets.  If you fail to lube this Area, neither one
will last long.  Secondary to this is the reduction of rusting.

John 


------------------------------

From JPlott@aol.com Fri Sep  8 19:10 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: No Subject

Ken,

     In the Motorcycle Consumer News a few months back, they reported an
"OIL" test done by a phyisist at UCLA.  He used his own motorcycle (Honda
Gold Wing) to standardize the results.  Then used some very sophisticated
equipment to measure the viscosity loss at various milage points.  Mobile 1
came out on top, then Castrol Syntec.  Way down the line came motorcycle
specality oils and other brands.  It is worth digging out the article.

John


------------------------------

From JPlott@aol.com Fri Sep  8 19:28 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Jet kit

Victor,
     All kinds of weird things happen to perception at that altitude!  (No
flames..Just a chuckle!)

John


------------------------------

From JPlott@aol.com Fri Sep  8 19:33 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Amsoil & Redline dangerous (fwd)

Brian,

     I have been using my rear stand that I bought from Two Brothers for over
a year.  It gets used at least twice a day.  It is the best that I have seen
because you will never have to replace it;  it fits into the rear axle with a
revolving pin so does not scratch the swing arm or frame.  It is a bit more
expensive than some  but in the long run....about the best you can get.

john


------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Mon Sep 11 07:24 PDT 1995
Subject: Re[2]: Chain and survey

     JPlott wrote:
     
     >The main reason to lube an "O" ring chain is tto lube the contact
>between the chain and sprockets.  If you fail to lube this Area, neither one 
>will last long.  Secondary to this is the reduction of rusting.
     
Sorry, this is one of those "untruths" that constantly get spread about.
First, after the first rotation or two, there is no longer any lube left
in the contact points of the rotor/chain.  Secondly, if your statement
were true, mine and many of my friends rotors, would have been worn out
many times over.  I've put 15,000 miles on an O-ring chain without oiling
it and had _No Visible Wear_ on the sprockets.

Jeff



------------------------------

From greaney@ee.unr.edu Mon Sep 11 07:59 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Chain and survey


Hi Jeff!

>      JPlott wrote:
>      
>      >The main reason to lube an "O" ring chain is tto lube the contact
> >between the chain and sprockets.  If you fail to lube this Area, neither one 
> >will last long.  Secondary to this is the reduction of rusting.
>      
> Sorry, this is one of those "untruths" that constantly get spread about.
> First, after the first rotation or two, there is no longer any lube left
> in the contact points of the rotor/chain.  Secondly, if your statement
> were true, mine and many of my friends rotors, would have been worn out
> many times over.  I've put 15,000 miles on an O-ring chain without oiling
> it and had _No Visible Wear_ on the sprockets.

Alright, if this is the case, then why the heck do O-Ring chains even
need to be lubed? (I lube mine 'cuz it makes noise, but that's because
it's stretched to the near limits of infitity...)


Mike


------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Mon Sep 11 08:14 PDT 1995
Subject: Re[4]: Chain and survey

     That's the whole point -- O-ring chains do not *need* to be lubed.
     The lubrication is sealed in.  The only valid reason to put something
     on the chain, be it lube or chain wax, is to help prevent rust. But,
     of course, the need to do that depends upon the conditions you ride
     your bike in and whether or not you clean the chain occassionally.
     Being that I don't ride in the wet, I simply clean the chain every
     now and continue riding.
     
     For me, the advantages are:  No/minimal grime thrown onto the rear
     wheel (i.e. less to clean).
     
     Jeff


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Chain and survey
Author:  Mike Nielsen  at INTERNET
Date:    9/11/95 8:07 AM


     
Hi Jeff!
     
>      JPlott wrote:
>      
>      >The main reason to lube an "O" ring chain is tto lube the contact
> >between the chain and sprockets.  If you fail to lube this Area, neither one 
> >will last long.  Secondary to this is the reduction of rusting.
>      
> Sorry, this is one of those "untruths" that constantly get spread about. 
> First, after the first rotation or two, there is no longer any lube left 
> in the contact points of the rotor/chain.  Secondly, if your statement
> were true, mine and many of my friends rotors, would have been worn out
> many times over.  I've put 15,000 miles on an O-ring chain without oiling 
> it and had _No Visible Wear_ on the sprockets.
     
Alright, if this is the case, then why the heck do O-Ring chains even 
need to be lubed? (I lube mine 'cuz it makes noise, but that's because 
it's stretched to the near limits of infitity...)
     
     
Mike



------------------------------

From ckrieger@osf1.gmu.edu Mon Sep 11 09:56 PDT 1995
Subject: unsub


Saddly it is time for me to leave this list.
I have sold my beautiful (sniff) 89 (sniff) hawk GT(sobbbbb)
Gwen (sight of a man completely destroyed)

In case you are interested, I got $3000 for it in perfect condition with
the corbin, manual, and a new unmounted metzler for the rear.  9500
miles.  I also only got two calls on it when advertised.  People that
know what it is worth to have one that hasn't been raced are out there.

-cliff


------------------------------

From greaney@ee.unr.edu Mon Sep 11 12:41 PDT 1995
Subject: Got hit....



...by a cop!!!!!!

It was bound to happen eventually...

I was leaving my parking spot by the education building earlier today,
exiting the wrong way out of the parking lot (it's marked one way).  
When I got to the exit at Evans street, I heard honking behind me.
It sounded distant enough, so I didn't even bother to look.  When
getting ready to pull out right onto evans, I hear the screeching of
tires, and suddenly.....


BLAM!!!!!




.... a BICYCLE cop comes and rams into me!!!!!  Apparently, he was gaining
speed, thinking I was gonna run or something, then BLAMMO! His brakes proved
unworthy of his manly legs (which were wearing shorts, I might add).
No damage, of course, except I almost tipped the bike over trying to
get him the f*ck off of me, then I almost dropped the bike because
I was laughing so damn hard. ;-)  My first words "You alright, man?"
The cocky fart said "of course I'm alright," then probably noticed
the massive grin coming from out of my Shoei and the fact that my
face was turning red from trying not to laugh.

No, he didn't write me a ticket, only asked me not to do it again, although
I suspect had it not been for his unfortunate collision with my Hawk
I'd be owing UNR some cash...

Lucky for him the exhaust exits on the right side, and not the left
where he 'touched down.'

Some humor for the day.....


Mike


--
Mike Nielsen       e: greaney@unr.edu       v: 702.784.4752


------------------------------

From DFJL@aol.com Mon Sep 11 14:58 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Chain and survey

Jeff wrote:

>     >The main reason to lube an "O" ring chain is tto lube the contact
>>between the chain and sprockets.  If you fail to lube this Area, neither
one 
>>will last long.  Secondary to this is the reduction of rusting.
     
>Sorry, this is one of those "untruths" that constantly get spread about.
>First, after the first rotation or two, there is no longer any lube left
>in the contact points of the rotor/chain.  Secondly, if your statement
>were true, mine and many of my friends rotors, would have been worn out
>many times over.  I've put 15,000 miles on an O-ring chain without oiling
>it and had _No Visible Wear_ on the sprockets.

No offense, but have you ever seen sprocket wear? I have, and I'd like to
hear how your logic explains that a spocket can wear.  An O-ring chain
certainly does nothing to protect it.  I honestly don't mean this to sound
insulting, but maybe you don't recognize sprocket wear.  It's not a rumor.

Dave


------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Mon Sep 11 15:25 PDT 1995
Subject: Re[4]: Chain and survey

     Dave -
     
     No, you're not insulting...it's a fair question.  Yes, I have seen
     sprocket wear and it's not because I don't oil my chain.  Remember,
     this is based upon my real life experience, verified with two
     separate reps from chain manufacturers, and it's also based upon
     experience of a number of friends.  Do some research and ask.  A
     non-O-ring chain definitely needs the lube but it's for the rollers,
     not to prevent wear on the sprocket as you have no lube left between
     the contact point of chain/sprocket after a couple of revolutions.
     
     Don't believe all the hype (PJ oil ads).  It's the same crap that
     the motorcycle oil manufacturers dish out about using "motorcycle"
     oil in your bike.  But that's another thread...
     
     Jeff


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Chain and survey
Author:  DFJL@aol.com at INTERNET
Date:    9/11/95 3:09 PM


Jeff wrote:
     
>     >The main reason to lube an "O" ring chain is tto lube the contact 
>>between the chain and sprockets.  If you fail to lube this Area, neither 
one 
>>will last long.  Secondary to this is the reduction of rusting.
     
>Sorry, this is one of those "untruths" that constantly get spread about. 
>First, after the first rotation or two, there is no longer any lube left 
>in the contact points of the rotor/chain.  Secondly, if your statement 
>were true, mine and many of my friends rotors, would have been worn out 
>many times over.  I've put 15,000 miles on an O-ring chain without oiling 
>it and had _No Visible Wear_ on the sprockets.
     
No offense, but have you ever seen sprocket wear? I have, and I'd like to 
hear how your logic explains that a spocket can wear.  An O-ring chain 
certainly does nothing to protect it.  I honestly don't mean this to sound 
insulting, but maybe you don't recognize sprocket wear.  It's not a rumor.
     
Dave



------------------------------

From jamesm@calweb.com Mon Sep 11 15:37 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Chain and survey

On Mon, 11 Sep 1995 DFJL@aol.com wrote:

> Jeff wrote:
> 
> >     >The main reason to lube an "O" ring chain is tto lube the contact
> >>between the chain and sprockets.  If you fail to lube this Area, neither
> one 
> >>will last long.  Secondary to this is the reduction of rusting.
>      
> >Sorry, this is one of those "untruths" that constantly get spread about.
> >First, after the first rotation or two, there is no longer any lube left
> >in the contact points of the rotor/chain.  Secondly, if your statement
> >were true, mine and many of my friends rotors, would have been worn out
> >many times over.  I've put 15,000 miles on an O-ring chain without oiling
> >it and had _No Visible Wear_ on the sprockets.
> 
> No offense, but have you ever seen sprocket wear? I have, and I'd like to
> hear how your logic explains that a spocket can wear.  An O-ring chain
> certainly does nothing to protect it.  I honestly don't mean this to sound
> insulting, but maybe you don't recognize sprocket wear.  It's not a rumor.

I'd have to agree with Jeff that chain lube does little to alleviate
sprocket wear.  Sprockets wear because of misalignment, a chain that's
too loose or too tight (either due to misadjustment, or a worn-out
chain), or dirt.  The actual (normal) operation of the chain over the
sprockets doesn't involve a significant amount of rubbing between the
chain roller and the sprocket teeth (ideally, there'd be no rubbing at
all).  Therefore, no lube should be necessary.

Before O-ring chains, the lube was for the chain (specifically between
the rollers and the pins), not the sprocket. As long as the O-rings
hold up, and the grease stays in the rollers, and the plates don't rust
or get really dirty, the chain should last a very long time.  Of
course, all of these things happen, eventually.  Once a chain develops
tight spots (sticky links) or the spacing between the links changes
(pin wear or plate stretch), the rollers start rubbing on the sprocket
teeth and the sprocket quickly wears out, lube or no lube.


------
james montebello - rider of tupperware, driver of a large body of water 


------------------------------

From Gumby647@aol.com Mon Sep 11 17:19 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: 916 Style Exhaust

   Hey all,

  Wouldn't a 916 style exhaust have head pipes that are way to long? It would
have some big-time flat spots.




                                                                           My
$.02






                                                                        Gumby


------------------------------

From DFJL@aol.com Mon Sep 11 17:44 PDT 1995
Subject: Chain wear

Jeff
OK, sounds reasonable.  I've gone back and checked on the models that I've
owned with sprocket wear ( when replacing chains ) and I haven't yet
convinced myself that any of them had o-ring chains when I got them ( stock
).  And realistically, at this point I can't actually verify whether the wear
was due to 'normal' wear, or failure of the chain's o-rings.  That there is
very little, if any, lube left on the contact points of the sprocket I agree
with, but I contributed that as the reason the manual says to lube every 600
miles.  ( I think my other bikes said 300 miles ).  The Hawk came stock with
o-ring, and it still reccomends a frequent lube and wear inspection.  This
may be Honda's err-on the-side-of-caution attitude, or just 'corporate
inertia'.
I absolutely agree with your attitude on the 'motorcycle oil' myth.  I've
always used Golden Spectro 4 in my bikes, mainly because it's the same price
as Mobil 1 (my preference in my 'cage'). I beleive in the benefits of
synthetic oil, but the argument that synthetic shouldn't be used in a bike
because it's 'slipperier' and will cause clutch problems is way off.  It's
not slipperier, but it does retain it's properties through a wider and hotter
temperature range.  The clutch is not going to be affected.  ( but - don't
put teflon additives in ! ).

Dave





------------------------------

From DFJL@aol.com Mon Sep 11 17:57 PDT 1995
Subject: Chain Wear

Jeff
OK, sounds reasonable.  I've gone back and checked on the models that I've
owned with sprocket wear ( when replacing chains ) and I haven't yet
convinced myself that any of them had o-ring chains when I got them ( stock
).  And realistically, at this point I can't actually verify whether the wear
was due to 'normal' wear, or failure of the chain's o-rings.  That there is
very little, if any, lube left on the contact points of the sprocket I agree
with, but I contributed that as the reason the manual says to lube every 600
miles.  ( I think my other bikes said 300 miles ).  The Hawk came stock with
o-ring, and it still reccomends a frequent lube and wear inspection.  This
may be Honda's err-on the-side-of-caution attitude, or just 'corporate
inertia'.
I absolutely agree with your attitude on the 'motorcycle oil' myth.  I've
always used Golden Spectro 4 in my bikes, mainly because it's the same price
as Mobil 1 (my preference in my 'cage'). I beleive in the benefits of
synthetic oil, but the argument that synthetic shouldn't be used in a bike
because it's 'slipperier' and will cause clutch problems is way off.  It's
not slipperier, but it does retain it's properties through a wider and hotter
temperature range.  The clutch is not going to be affected.  ( but - don't
put teflon additives in ! ).

Dave






------------------------------

From lacey@dsea.com Tue Sep 12 09:36 PDT 1995
Subject: test

this is a test......


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************




------------------------------

From tschorer@mbl.edu Tue Sep 12 12:52 PDT 1995
Subject: FS: Aerostich, 2pc, Red w/black sz 42

Well, I had a lot of responses to my Hawk FS post, thanks to all.
Now I have to sell the suit:

Aerostich 2pc roadcrafter
42 regular (I'm 5'11", 180lbs  and the suit is roomy)
Purchased July of 94
ridden less than 5k miles, very little wet weather (perhaps 1hr total,
enough to know that the crotch leaks).
Red w/black ballistic 
back protector
Suit is IMMACULATE!!, NO stains, scrapes, rips etc.
$500 ($740 new +production time!) 

I also have a pair of Black Gaerne boots purchased 6mos ago.  size 10
(will fit anywhere from 11-12 w/wo the inserts I put in. (I wear a 10.5
and these are a little large on me). Best Offer
Reply to:
   tschorer@mbl.edu


------------------------------

From jamesm@calweb.com Tue Sep 12 15:32 PDT 1995
Subject: Pipes


A thousand pardons if this is an FAQ, but has anyone out there tried the
Dale Walker left-side exhaust system?  I'm interested in how much 
clearance there is beneath the swingarm vis-a-vis the stock system.  I
need to jack up the back end of my Hawk some (Fox shock :-), but the
swingarm nearly hits the exhaust boom box at full droop as it is, so
more clearance is required. 

I'd also like to know if TBR (or anyone else, other than Supertrapp)
makes a system that they would consider "street civil" in the noise
dept.  The only TBR pipes I've heard to date are full-race systems
at the track, and they're all way too loud. 


------
james montebello - rider of tupperware, driver of a large body of water 



------------------------------

From Gumby647@aol.com Tue Sep 12 15:56 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: 916 Style Exhaust

  Steve,

 I am using 174X8 cams in my race bike. They have not gotten rid of the flat
spot on
my bike. I'm running a TBR pipe. They are however beter than the 174X1 cams
that I 
had before.

                                                          Gumby


------------------------------

From JPlott@aol.com Tue Sep 12 16:52 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Chain and survey

     And it makes noise because it needs lube betweeen the sprockets and
chain!  But that is O.K.- Everfyone has the rright to do what they think is
best from their point on the learning curve!!!!   and boy, do I have a lot to
learn!


------------------------------

From greaney@ee.unr.edu Tue Sep 12 16:55 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Chain and survey

> 
>      And it makes noise because it needs lube betweeen the sprockets and
> chain!  But that is O.K.- Everfyone has the rright to do what they think is
> best from their point on the learning curve!!!!   and boy, do I have a lot to
> learn!

Actually, it's because the chain is rusting and kinking up in spots.  The
rubbing on the sprockets is only secondary to the above.

This will all be solved when I buy a new chain and sprockets, tho. ;-)

Mike


--
Mike Nielsen       e: greaney@unr.edu       v: 702.784.4752


------------------------------

From JPlott@aol.com Tue Sep 12 17:02 PDT 1995
Subject: fax . and administrative stuff

Frank P,

     Thank you for the FAX today.  It explains a bit: however, the obvious is
not so clear from this end.  It may be because of different servers
but...every time I recieve mail through AOL I also recieve the address of the
sender at the top of the message.  I consequently thought that you and
everyone else got the same information whenever I sent a message out.  Since
that does not seem to be the case, here are a couple:

        jplott@aol.com     this is the address that I use at home during
play-time.

        plottj@mail.tallahassee.cc.fl.us    this is the address I use in my
office.

You are welcome to use either.


I hope this puts out the flames!   By the way,  I am still interested in the
tank!

John


------------------------------

From gilman@mtwil1.mtwilson.edu Wed Sep 13 08:18 PDT 1995
Subject: I can't get no connection

Okay, this is the fourth try now.

*			*			*		      *

As a matter of fact, I've been trying to send the following post for the
last two days, but it keeps bouncing.  Now, at least I know why.  I'm
still going to try again.  I lost about 3 weeks because mail just wasn't
getting to me since all the improvements!

      *				*			*

Hi all Hawksters,

     For the past few weeks, I've inadvertently been off the list.  I've
missed a lot of posts.  Does anybody have any posts from Sept. 1-10 that 
you could forward to me?  Or at least summarize what I've missed if there's
been any major discussion on one or two topics?  I'd greatly appreciate it.

     A better email address for me is now:  gilman@bonnie.astro.ucla.edu

     Thanks, 

     Pam

P.S. Thanks, Frank, for your help.  I did get a post today at the UCLA
address.

P.P.S.  Dave, I read your post, so you got through.  So did you, John.



------------------------------

From briggsw@microsoft.com Wed Sep 13 13:49 PDT 1995
Subject: Please add briggsw@microsoft.com to the list


thanks
briggs  

#
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M>)\^(B,4`0:0"``$```````!``$``0>0!@`(````Y`0```````#H``$(@`<`
M&````$E032Y-:6-R;W-O9G0@36%I;"Y.;W1E`#$(`0V`!``"`````@`"``$$
M@`$`+0```%!L96%S92!A9&0@8G)I9V=S=T!M:6-R;W-O9G0N8V]M('1O('1H
M92!L:7-T`'L0`06``P`.````RP<)``T`#0`@`"```P`X`0$@@`,`#@```,L'
M"0`-``T`'P`1``,`*`$!"8`!`"$```!#1#,X,#(S13)#141#13$Q.$4Y,3`P
M04$P,#-&,D9$,P!%!P$$D`8`E`$```$````-`````P``,`(````+``\.````
M``(!_P\!````5@``````````8)1D8$&X`0@`*RN**0``9`$4`&0`&@`^`!@`
M```4`"=H87=K9W0M``(P`0````4```!33510`````!X``S`!````&````&AA
M=VMG="UR97%U97-T0&1S96$N8V]M``,`%0P!`````@'Y#P$```!-````````
M`($K'Z2^HQ`9G6X`W0$/5`(```$`:&%W:V=T+7)E<75E`'```0```"T`
M``!0;&5A


------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Wed Sep 13 14:16 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Amsoil & Redline dangerous (fwd)

> 	BTW I am looking for a rear stand for my hawk and was wondering 
> what the prices are running for one of them. I am basically looking for 
> the best low cost stand out on the market. So what is the vote?
> 	
> 					Brian Krett
> 					MRA#139
> 					88' Hawk Blue

I use a super-duper cheapie that I got from a place called Shannon 
Racing, in the back of RR world.  I can dig up their address if you 
want.  Basically all it is is a bunch of square steel tubing welded 
together and spray-painted black.  It's the cheapest I could find at $59, 
and works fine.  It's not as pretty as a TBR, butthe price difference 
paid for a race weekend . . .

C ya
DC



------------------------------

From lacey Wed Sep 13 16:41 PDT 1995
Subject: test.....


Please ignore.....



------------------------------

From Cecil_Walker@ccm.ch.intel.com Wed Sep 13 16:54 PDT 1995
Subject: Subscription Request

Please add my name to your subscription list!

Cecil Walker
cecil_walker@ccm.ch.intel.com


------------------------------

From chrisw@usa.pipeline.com Wed Sep 13 23:11 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Need a radiator

Oops! 
Yes, I do have one and the Hawk has been back on the street. Sorry if I
failed to get back to you. Thanks to you and everyone who responded via the
list and by private e-mail.  
I do appreciate it!  
 
Chris


------------------------------

From Kenneth.Lawas@analog.com Thu Sep 14 05:24 PDT 1995
Subject: Rear stand



> I use a super-duper cheapie that I got from a place called Shannon
> Racing, in the back of RR world.  I can dig up their address if you
> want.  Basically all it is is a bunch of square steel tubing welded
> together and spray-painted black.  It's the cheapest I could find at
> $59, and works fine.  It's not as pretty as a TBR, butthe price
> difference paid for a race weekend . . .
> 
> C ya
> DC


  Hey, I have square tubing and black spray paint...  Is it tubing
  going into the bearing carrier, or is there a more elaborate rotating
  setup?  I'd spend an afternoon welding one up to avoid putting my
  bike on the kickstand on my dirt-floor garage.

  -Ken



------------------------------

From heaven@pogo.den.mmc.com Thu Sep 14 06:54 PDT 1995
Subject: Synthetic oils (fwd)

> 
> Since I've had some oil related engine failures in my hp stressed Hawk
> motor, I've been thinking about trying a Synthetic oil once the rebuild
> is complete. What advantage do Synthetics provide? Do they hold viscosity
> better under heat? Can I run closer tolerences? 
> 
> thanks in advance
> steve  
> 
  I use Amsoil synthetic oil in my SuperHawk, and have for the past
  two years.  The general advantages associated with a good synthetic
  are:
  1.  Better viscosity retention at temperature extremes
  2.  Less engine wear
  3.  Resistance to acid buildup from combustion byproducts
      
      I inadvertently ran my hawk at the track while 1.5 quarts low
      on oil, and during a later tear down found no significant
      problems in the motor.
      
      Brian Heaven
      heaven@pogo.den.mmc.com   


------------------------------

From lacey@dsea.com Thu Sep 14 07:50 PDT 1995
Subject: From the hawkgt list

>Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 07:53:42 -0700
>From: Mail Delivery Subsystem 
>Subject: Returned mail: Can't create output: No such file or directory
>To: root@chalice.firewall.dsea.com
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>
>The original message was received at Thu, 14 Sep 1995 07:52:05 -0700
>from root@localhost
>
>   ----- The following addresses had delivery problems -----
>Hugh.MacMullan@Forsythe.Stanford.EDU  (unrecoverable error)
>
>   ----- Transcript of session follows -----
>... while talking to forsythe.stanford.edu.:
>>>> RCPT To:
><<< 550 Unknown user id:  Hugh.MacMullan
>550 Hugh.MacMullan@Forsythe.Stanford.EDU... User unknown
>550 /dead.letter... Can't create output: No such file or directory
>
>   ----- Original message follows -----
>
>Content-Type: message/rfc822
>
>Return-Path: root
>Received: (from root@localhost) by chalice.firewall.dsea.com (8.6.9/8.6.9)
>id HAA07699 for Hugh.MacMullan@Forsythe.Stanford.EDU; Thu, 14 Sep 1995
>07:52:05 -0700
>Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 07:52:05 -0700
>From: 0000-Admin(0000) 
>Message-Id: <199509141452.HAA07699@chalice.firewall.dsea.com>
>Apparently-To: Hugh.MacMullan@Forsythe.Stanford.EDU
>
>test
>Please reply to postmaster@dsea.com
>

*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************




------------------------------

From RichG26825@aol.com Thu Sep 14 16:24 PDT 1995
Subject: request info.

Greetings:
I'm a proud owner of a '92 Hawk 750.  Don't know much, since this is my first
bike?  Does GT apply to earlier Hawks only?  Are you an e-mail service or
snail mail?

Thanks!
Rich



------------------------------

From Hawknt@aol.com Thu Sep 14 19:03 PDT 1995
Subject: Synthetic oils (fwd)

 Since I've had some oil related engine failures in my hp stressed Hawk
> motor, I've been thinking about trying a Synthetic oil once the rebuild
> is complete. What advantage do Synthetics provide? Do they hold viscosity
> better under heat? Can I run closer tolerences? 
> 
> thanks in advance
> steve  
> 
>  I use Amsoil synthetic oil in my SuperHawk, and have for the past
>  two years.  The general advantages associated with a good synthetic
>  are:
>  1.  Better viscosity retention at temperature extremes
> 2.  Less engine wear
>  3.  Resistance to acid buildup from combustion byproducts
      
>      I inadvertently ran my hawk at the track while 1.5 quarts low
>      on oil, and during a later tear down found no significant
>      problems in the motor.

The only precaution when using synthetic from what I've heard is that you
wait until the motor is broken in before switching.  I've used both Mobil 1
and Castrol Syntec in my Hawk, my previous bike (Honda FT500), and in my car
(turbocharged) and have not had any engine problems (knock wood).  

Stuart (Hawknt)


------------------------------

From Munkijones@aol.com Thu Sep 14 19:41 PDT 1995
Subject: Gauge Bucket

I'm looking for the plastic bucket the gauges sit in for my '88.  I would
like one in good condition, not cracked like mine.  Thanks.

ano


------------------------------

From Kenneth.Lawas@analog.com Fri Sep 15 06:28 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: Synthetic oils


> [...]  I've used both Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntec in my Hawk, my
> previous bike (Honda FT500), and in my car (turbocharged) and have not
> had any engine problems (knock wood).
> 
> Stuart (Hawknt)
> 

  I hadn't tried Castrol Syntec in my bikes because of their TV ad--the
  one where they drain the oil and the motor still keeps on running.
  It implies PTFE or Slick 50 type additives.  I don't know that these
  are bad for a wet clutch, it just made me nervous.  Same with Penzoil's
  new synthetic with the "star molecule."  I think the bike will last
  forever on a standard synthetic like Mobil 1.

  -Ken


------------------------------

From Cecil_Walker@ccm.ch.intel.com Fri Sep 15 07:27 PDT 1995
Subject: Differences in the years?

Can anyone tell me what the differences were between the various NT650 
years? I'm going to look at an '88 this weekend that's suppose to be in 
excellent shape (10K miles). I'm just wondering if an '89 or '90 has 
significant improvements. Any help will be appreciated!

TIA,
Cecil
     
==================================================================== 
Cecil Walker       N7LTD     |"I don't know, but I've | Current:
cecil_walker@ccm.ch.intel.com|been told, never slow   |'95 VFR-750FS 
72072.3477@compuserve.com    |down never grow old!"   | Previous: 
DoD #1758, AMA, HRCA, MSF    |          Tom Petty     |'93 CBR-600F2
====================================================================
My thoughts are my own and in no way represent Intel's (yadee, yadee...)


------------------------------

From cfaison@magpage.com Fri Sep 15 10:14 PDT 1995
Subject: hawk purchase

Hi all,

Ok, so I've decided to purchase a Hawk as my next race bike. I'm sure you
all know why I like it, so I won't bore you...

Anyway, I am now searching for a Hawk to purchase. My search criteria are
simple:

1) CHEAP!
2) INEXPENSIVE!
3) LOW COST!
4) In good mechanical condition.

I think you get the point... Any help would be greatly appreciated. Please Email
cfaison@magpage.com or phone (302) 325-5737.

Thanks, Craig



------------------------------

From MAILER-DAEMON Fri Sep 15 09:12 PDT 1995
Subject: Returned mail: unknown mailer error 9

This is a MIME-encapsulated message

--MAA21791.811182043/emin01.mail.aol.com

The original message was received at Fri, 15 Sep 1995 12:20:27 -0400
from chalice.firewall.dsea.com [204.30.91.193]

    If you're not sure of the proper email address for a particular
AOL user, try sending mail to "namesearch@aol.com", and they should be
able to help you verify or locate the proper address.

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--MAA21791.811182043/emin01.mail.aol.com
Content-Type: message/rfc822

Return-Path: frank@dsea.com
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Date: Fri, 15 Sep 1995 09:07:09 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 
Message-Id: <199509151607.JAA13850@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: Differences in the years?
Content-Length: 338


I know at least one difference.  The post-88 ones have
a threaded forward tank-locator bushing.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097


--MAA21791.811182043/emin01.mail.aol.com--



------------------------------

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Date: Fri, 15 Sep 1995 09:07:09 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 
Message-Id: <199509151607.JAA13850@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: Differences in the years?
Content-Length: 338


I know at least one difference.  The post-88 ones have
a threaded forward tank-locator bushing.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097


--JAA10099.811182426/chalice.firewall.dsea.com--



------------------------------

From newgate_mailer_daemon@microsoft.com Fri Sep 15 09:36 PDT 1995
Subject: mail problem

Trouble sending mail on `newgate', Fri Sep 15 09:29:44 1995

============ Transcript follows ============
  jmonburg
0 alias errors
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1 delivery errors
1 total errors

============== Message follows =============
>From frank@dsea.com Fri Sep 15 09:29:44 1995
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Date: Fri, 15 Sep 1995 09:07:09 -0700
From: "Frank.Evan.Perdicaro."
Message-Id: <199509151607.JAA13850@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: Differences in the years?
Content-Length: 338


I know at least one difference.  The post-88 ones have
a threaded forward tank-locator bushing.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097



------------------------------

From scutchin@vt.edu Fri Sep 15 10:37 PDT 1995
Subject: those boring cylinders

Since our bikes are twins the pistons come pretty close together at the 
bottom.  The cylinder liners on the Hawk are ground away in a U shape at the 
factory to allow clearance for the opposite cylinder.  Well...as I found 
out*IF YOU PUT IN BIGGER PISTONS*you must grind these away even more or one 
day at high revs when those pistons are slappin' around the pistons will hit 
the opposite cylinder liner!!!  My R piston hit the F liner harder than the 
F hit the rear.  I am on my third set of rings and now am going to have to 
replace the whole cylinder.  Not a big deal 'cause I think I can get one 
used that's already bored out but a pain nonetheless.  I just wanted to warn 
everyone in case you were searching for more power.

If anybody cares, I think the 700cc pistons (82mm) are probably the biggest 
bang for the buck you can get after pipe and jet kit.  Mine has a TBR pipe, 
Factory 3.0 jet kit and 4deg advancer and Uni's - 60HP.  Mark from Chafong's 
has stock pistons with an MVR exhaust, HRC jet kit, 5-angle valve job, port 
work and Uni's and is putting out 60 also. Pistons, rings and boring was 
only about $300 bucks, really not that bad considering the performance gain.

One last thing (have I bored you yet?!) I have never liked my Uni filters.  
I like the way the stock airbox has those little plastic velocity stacks.  
As the guy from Sims & Rohm told me, "that's carburetor tuning."  Yesterday 
I cut the mounting bases off of my Uni's and hot glue gunned  the foam with 
the coiled supports inside onto the stock airbox bottom and ran the bike 
without a lid.  Whammo!!  I need to rejet because it is now running too lean 
up top but on my favorite top speed run  place the bike pulled about 10 MPH 
faster, which was I think about 500+RPM.  BIG DIFFERENCE!!!  I'm going to 
put in bigger jets and see how it goes but if I can get the bike to pull 
strongly to redline in fifth (with 2 teeth smaller rear sprocket) I will be 
one happy camper!!


Steve '89 700cc red 



------------------------------

From scutchin@vt.edu Fri Sep 15 12:43 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: those boring cylinders

>> I cut the mounting bases off of my Uni's and hot glue gunned  the foam with 
>> the coiled supports inside onto the stock airbox bottom and ran the bike 
>> without a lid.
>> 
>> Steve '89 700cc red 
>
>Did you ever try running the stock airbox bottom and filter without the
>top?
>
>
>--
>see ya!
>
>marty 
>
I had the top of the stock airbox swiss-cheesed with 1/2" holes but the 
Uni's seemed better.  Both TBR and Chafong say Uni's are the way to go, so I 
don't know if my new Uni/stock hybrid combo is truly a great invention the 
top end was definitely higher.  Like I said, I'll rejet and post the results 
but I'm pretty sure I'm on to something here.

Also, the stock airbox bottom acts as a heat shield so the incoming air with 
my patented Steve's Hybrid Uni/Stock Airbox Combo (has a nice ring to it, 
doesn't it?! Hee Hee) is going to be cooler and thus more dense and thus 
make our wonderful Hawks FASTER!!  I have even heard it helps to put 
aluminum tape on the underside of the airbox to further block heat transfer 
(I learned about that stuff in my Heat and Mass Transfer class - yeah, I 
know, big deal!!)

I think I'm going to drill a few pinholes in the corners in case water 
puddles up since there doesn't appear to be a drain.

I'll keep ya posted,

Steve



------------------------------

From mudpuppy@gibbs.oit.unc.edu Fri Sep 15 12:45 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: Synthetic oils

> 
>   I hadn't tried Castrol Syntec in my bikes because of their TV ad--the
>   one where they drain the oil and the motor still keeps on running.
>   It implies PTFE or Slick 50 type additives.  I don't know that these
>   are bad for a wet clutch, it just made me nervous.  Same with Penzoil's
>   new synthetic with the "star molecule."  I think the bike will last
>   forever on a standard synthetic like Mobil 1.

Don't forget that Mobil 1 is not all synthetic.  It's a mixture of 
dino-juice and synthetic.  It's what I use.

I somehow got removed from the list for about 3 weeks.  I though you guys 
were just being quiet.  Did I miss anything?  Anyone get one of those 
carbon fiber 5 gallon tanks yet?  Anyone have a picture of one?  

Cheers,

Phil Calvin                                                 HawkGT DoD#242



------------------------------

From scutchin@vt.edu Fri Sep 15 12:56 PDT 1995
Subject: rear stand

I built a rear stand for my Hawk out of 1 1/4" galvanized pipe.  T's for the 
corners and a T at the top with two 1 1/4 to 3/4" bushings.  I Dremeled out 
the threads (a BIG drill would have been better) and ran a piece of 3/4" 
pipe through it.  I put a cap on the end and a cotter pin through a hole I 
drilled and put some aluminum tape on the shaft (the axle hole was a little 
larger.)  I need to get spot-welds 'cause the threads like to move a little. 
 Yes, the shaft really turns.  I think it would work pretty well for a 
racer.  Personally, I never use the thing any more.  My TBR pipe requires 
removal of the centerstand, which I had removed anyway 'cause of weight.  I 
hacksawed off the top rail on the center stand and can now bolt it on when I 
want to in about 15 seconds.  I just thread the bolts in hand tight when I 
want to work on the bike.  If you have a TBR pipe and haven't done this do 
it - in case you have forgotten how nice a center stand is for maintenance 
you're in for a pleasant surprise!!

Just thought you might wanna know

Steve



------------------------------

From scutchin@vt.edu Fri Sep 15 13:12 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: Synthetic oils

>> 
>>   I hadn't tried Castrol Syntec in my bikes because of their TV ad--the
>>   one where they drain the oil and the motor still keeps on running.
>>   It implies PTFE or Slick 50 type additives.  I don't know that these
>>   are bad for a wet clutch, it just made me nervous.  Same with Penzoil's
>>   new synthetic with the "star molecule."  I think the bike will last
>>   forever on a standard synthetic like Mobil 1.
>
>Don't forget that Mobil 1 is not all synthetic.  It's a mixture of 
>dino-juice and synthetic.  It's what I use.
>
>I somehow got removed from the list for about 3 weeks.  I though you guys 
>were just being quiet.  Did I miss anything?  Anyone get one of those 
>carbon fiber 5 gallon tanks yet?  Anyone have a picture of one?  
>
>Cheers,
>
>Phil Calvin                                                 HawkGT DoD#242
>
>
Absolutely incorrect!!  Mobil 1 is 100% synthetic and, in my humble opinion, 
the best motor oil available.

Steve



------------------------------

From Kenneth.Lawas@analog.com Fri Sep 15 13:32 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: Synthetic oils



> Don't forget that Mobil 1 is not all synthetic.  It's a mixture of 
> dino-juice and synthetic.  It's what I use.

  The Mobil literature I read said it was all synthetic.  Valvoline
  (I think) does market a blend that is fits a price niche.
  I spend the $3.50 a quart and go for Mobil 1.

 -Ken


------------------------------

From Gumby647@aol.com Fri Sep 15 14:09 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: those boring cylinders

  Steve,

  What I did to my carbs on my street bike is put them on a lathe and
radiused the
inlets. If you look at the stock carbs you'll see there's about 5/8"
differance between
the inside edge and the outside edge of the inlets. With Uni's they go over
the whole
carb leaving that lip to disrupt flow. When you use the stock velocity stacks
they lineup
with the inside edge of the inlets. This may be where your power is comming
from, not 
the additional length. By bringing the inside edge out to the outside edge
I've Increased 
the amount of air that can enter the carbs.

                                                                       Gumby



------------------------------

From Gumby647@aol.com Fri Sep 15 14:14 PDT 1995
Subject: Fwd: Synthetic oils

   Mobil is not a pure synthenic like Amsoil or Redline. 

                                                                    Gumby

---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	Kenneth.Lawas@analog.com (Ken Lawas x2631)
To:	HawkGT@dsea.com
Date: 95-09-15 17:07:08 EDT



> Don't forget that Mobil 1 is not all synthetic.  It's a mixture of 
> dino-juice and synthetic.  It's what I use.

  The Mobil literature I read said it was all synthetic.  Valvoline
  (I think) does market a blend that is fits a price niche.
  I spend the $3.50 a quart and go for Mobil 1.

 -Ken



------------------------------

From MAILER-DAEMON Fri Sep 15 14:16 PDT 1995
Subject: Returned mail: warning: cannot send message for 4 hours

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--RAA14235.811200296/enterprise.bih.harvard.edu
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Date: Fri, 15 Sep 1995 09:07:09 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 
Message-Id: <199509151607.JAA13850@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: Differences in the years?
Content-Length: 338


I know at least one difference.  The post-88 ones have
a threaded forward tank-locator bushing.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097


--RAA14235.811200296/enterprise.bih.harvard.edu--



------------------------------

From Gumby647@aol.com Fri Sep 15 14:22 PDT 1995
Subject: Rear Rear head

    Hey Hawk Racers, like Brian and DC

  Do you guys know how much of an advantage there is to running 2 rear heads?
I'm 
looking for more power and will be making a new exhaust anyway. I don't want
to spend
$350 for a new head if it's not much improvement.







                                                                        Gumby



------------------------------

From Hawknt@aol.com Fri Sep 15 15:23 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: '88 vs. Later Differences

I've heard via the HawkWorks newsletter that the '89 and later Hawks had
different damper holes in the forks.  For the '88, they had specific
recommendations on welding the stock holes shut and drilling them out.  I
don't remember the specific size though.  According to the Hawk service
manual, there are a couple of minor differences- like a slightly different
mounting for an external oil line- but nothing significant.

By the way, I believe even the synthetics use very highly refined crude oils
as their base stock and modify it significantly from there.

Stuart


------------------------------

From cavenewt@wyoming.com Sat Sep 16 15:22 PDT 1995
Subject: Euro Hawk?

So. In the process of acquiring my new Hawk (well, it's half mine), I
learned that they still make them, sort of. They're sold in Europe as a
small touring bike. Same bike but with 5-gal gas tank, steel frame, drive
shaft, and a different name which escapes me now.

My source, who was a friend from Germany participating in the Iron Butt,
said his girlfriend has one and the bikes have a reputation for great
reliability (I like that.)

As strictly a Beemer owner up to now, I have to say I like the idea of the
drive shaft. And has anyone ever tried putting the 5-gal tank on a Hawk?

--Colleen

----------------------------------------------------------------
Colleen Thompson                            cavenewt@wyoming.com
................................................................
   >Newt Boot<   carrying case for Newton and similar PDAs
    >YES! Pigs Can Fly<   art rubber stamps by mail order
................................................................

                 1/2 of a 1989 Honda Hawk
   1994 BMW R1100RS with 43,000 happy miles and counting...
----------------------------------------------------------------




------------------------------

From Mailer-Daemon@chalice.firewall.dsea.com Sat Sep 16 15:24 PDT 1995
Subject: Returned mail: warning: cannot send message for 1 day

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Date: Fri, 15 Sep 1995 09:07:09 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 
Message-Id: <199509151607.JAA13850@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: Differences in the years?
Content-Length: 338


I know at least one difference.  The post-88 ones have
a threaded forward tank-locator bushing.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097




------------------------------

From EINBERGER@aol.com Sat Sep 16 15:26 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Differences in the years?

The '88 has a slightly different fuel line routing/system than the '89 and
later Hawks, but basically is the same.  The '89 nad later Hawks also have a
little Honda "wing" emblem in the fork upper triple clamp plate.....not much
else as far as I remember.

John Einberger




------------------------------

From WhiteWorm@aol.com Sat Sep 16 15:27 PDT 1995
Subject: Pipes

What is the best pipe for the money?
I hear that TBR is very expensive.  Looks great though.
Tell me about the MVR.  Is it better?  Faster?
No one on the list has ever just laid it out on the line...
TBR- ???
MVR- ???
Supertrapp- ??
Whatever- ??
Stats, prices, problems?


------------------------------

From Steve@hawk.dungeon.com Sun Sep 17 13:47 PDT 1995
Subject: subscibe hawk gt

Please sign me up for the Hawk mailing list.  My e-mail address is
steve@hawk.dungeon.com

Thanks,
     Steve




------------------------------

From goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us Sun Sep 17 13:54 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Euro Hawk?

On Sat, 16 Sep 1995, Colleen Thompson/Newt Boot wrote:

> learned that they still make them, sort of. They're sold in Europe as a
> small touring bike. Same bike but with 5-gal gas tank, steel frame, drive
> shaft, and a different name which escapes me now.

First was the 600 Revere, now called the NTV650 I think.

> drive shaft. And has anyone ever tried putting the 5-gal tank on a Hawk?

Welcome to the 3rd most discussed subject on the Hawk list (behind
pipes/jet kits and tires).  

Matt/OH                            goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us
89 Hawk GT (street)                76025.1535@compuserve.com
89 EX 500  (racebike)




------------------------------

From Wildcat130@aol.com Sun Sep 17 13:54 PDT 1995
Subject: Mailing list

Would you please put me (JEEP141412) on your mailing list.
Send it to JEEP141412.


------------------------------

From Gumby647@aol.com Sun Sep 17 13:55 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Pipes

   Here it is, on the line. The best exhaust is one that is custom built for
your bike.
When you change cams you change valve overlap, which in turn changes the
tuned
length of the pipes. When you increase displacement, the diameter of the head
pipes 
should be increased. I feel that for racing a 2 into 2 reverse cone megaphone
system
makes the best power, but for the street this system is WAY TO LOUD and will
lose
power at lower R's. I have a TBR and a Supertrapp. The trapp has much better
low end
but sacrifices top end, I run the pipe with a open end cap. The TBR is better
up top but
will not pull off of corners if below 5.5K. I have run both pipes on the same
bike. Of 
these 3 systems I'd run a megaphone on a race bike and a trapp on a street
bike.















                                                                        Gumby


------------------------------

From DFJL@aol.com Sun Sep 17 13:55 PDT 1995
Subject: Honda Bros ( 'Euro Hawk' )

cavenewt@wyoming.com wrote :

>So. In the process of acquiring my new Hawk (well, it's half mine), I
>learned that they still make them, sort of. They're sold in Europe as a
>small touring bike. Same bike but with 5-gal gas tank, steel frame, drive
>shaft, and a different name which escapes me now.

C'mon, a steel frame, shaft drive, 5 gal tank, and you call it 'Same bike' ?

The  NTV650 is said to be very sluggish compared to a Hawk.  I've never
ridden one, so I don't know.  I've heard people speculate about whether the
tank would fit, but I've never heard of anyone trying it. Let us know what
you find out.
A similar bike to the Hawk is also sold in Japan as a 400cc called a Honda
"Bros", I think.

Dave


------------------------------

From Smith_Dug/HP-Pinewood_piglet@hpopdug.pwd.hp.com Mon Sep 18 01:12 PDT 1995
Subject: Euro Hawk...

Dave sed:

>C'mon, a steel frame, shaft drive, 5 gal tank, and you call it 'Same
>bike' ?

Nah, it's a piece of junk compared to the Hawk...

>The  NTV650 is said to be very sluggish compared to a Hawk.  I've never
>ridden one, so I don't know.

I've not ridden one, but in the laps at Box Hill, the Hawk just clears off
:o)

>I've heard people speculate about whether the tank would fit, but I've
>never heard of anyone trying it.

I have, and because it's about an inch longer, the bigger tank won't fit...
you might be able to cut that inch out :o)

>A similar bike to the Hawk is also sold in Japan as a 400cc called a
>Honda "Bros", I think.

Close... they had the Product 1, which was much the same as the Hawk (lower
bars, and, I'm told, originally with an 18" rear wheel), and the Product 2,
which is the same everything except a 400cc engine to fit in around the
Japanese stepped licensing system.  The 650s seem to be getting a bit
scarce as grey imports these days, so we've got more and more of the 400s
appearing.
---
Dug Smith (dug@piglet.pwd.hp.com)  | Terry Pratchett:
   Hewlett Packard, Pinewood,      | It's almost impossible to ride a rock
   Nine Mile Ride, Wokingham,      |  and roll motorbike and stay on for
Berkshire, RG40 3LL (01344) 763124 |            three verses.



------------------------------

From DFJL@aol.com Mon Sep 18 01:23 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Honda Bros ( 'Euro Hawk' )

I'm not sure what engine is actually in the European Hawk - I do believe it'
sessentially the same as 'ours', but it may be 'de-tuned' milder cams,
carbueration or even different final drive ratio - just speculation on my
part ! I don't know.  Honda used the 'same' engine in the dual-purpose
'Africa Twin' specially designed for the Paris - Dakar Rally, but I know it
has hotter cams, and of course a different drive ratio.  Maybe related to a
Honda 'Ascot' or early Shadow 500 too, I'm no expert here.

The shaft drive is attractive from a maintenance aspect, buut it's not as
efficient as chain drive.  Also, shaft drive kind of kicks the back end of
the bike up when you give it throttle, as opposed to lowering the back end
with chain - this alters the handling and feel of the bike dramatically for
the worse, I feel.  I used to have a shaftie.  Don't get me wrong, it's not
all bad, just different feel.  Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, and BMW use it well,
but not when power delivery is the top priority.  I want belt drive, but it's
got a major tradeoff of power vs. width.

I'm very curious why your getting a European version in Wyoming ? Is there a
story here ?  You mention riding the Hawk, was it an American market Hawk, or
the one you're looking into ?
I may be able to pull out a file from the other side of the pond who owns a
US-spec Hawk in Britain, and relates his experience ( vs Euro-spec ) If you
like, I'll attach it and send it to you.

Dave



------------------------------

From alan@wana.pbrc.Hawaii.Edu Mon Sep 18 01:29 PDT 1995
Subject: Trade+cash for a Hawk?

Ok, I know these are not Hawks and technically don't belong here but these
bikes belong to friends of mine and they want to sell these bikes to so
they can buy a Hawks. Can you blame them? So... if for some odd reason
anyone out there would like to trade a Hawk for a GSXR750 or one of 2
CBR9's then here is your chance. The bikes are located in Honolulu, Hawaii.
 Hawks a becoming an endangered species here in the Islands so we have to
look to the mainland for bikes.  
Here are the bikes...
Suzuki GSX-R750 --mint, fully polished (rims, frame, swingarm...) stage3,
indiv. filters, V&H SS2R exhaust $4100 obo (808)423-2389 or (808)537-0466
Honda CBR900RR  --mint, fully polished (rims, frame, swingarm...) Two
Brothers exhaust, Sims&Rohm ign. advancer, Race Tech gold valve...$7500 obo
(808)578-9347 or (808)423-2188
Honda CBR900RR --mint, RVF bodywork (RC45-ish), Muzzy exhaust,TBR bars,
Erion Racing triple clamps,MezZ1...$7700 obo (808)578-1477 or(808)737-1309
If anybody is interested they could either email arnelf@Hawaii.edu or reply
to me at alan@wana.pbrc.hawaii.edu.  As far as asking price goes, please
don't flame me for what the asking price is, the price is not firm rather
its the "or best offer" part I'd pay attention to.  Of course if you have
Superhawk collecting dust in your garage and you've been lusting for a
customized CBR900RR then I'm sure they'd be willing to bargain...   

Alan



------------------------------

From s006nlt@discover.wright.edu Mon Sep 18 01:32 PDT 1995
Subject: fairing

	Can someone give me any info on the fairing options for the gt?

NED



------------------------------

From mudpuppy@gibbs.oit.unc.edu Mon Sep 18 01:32 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Pipes


> 
> What is the best pipe for the money?
> I hear that TBR is very expensive.  Looks great though.
> Tell me about the MVR.  Is it better?  Faster?
> No one on the list has ever just laid it out on the line...
> TBR- ???
> MVR- ???
> Supertrapp- ??
> Whatever- ??
> Stats, prices, problems?

The MVR and TBR are about the same price.  Mike Velasco (of MVR, get it?) 
designed the original TBR pipe.  They are very similar, as you might 
imagine.  The MVR reportedly has a smaller diameter pipe near the 
engine.  Someone mentioned that they saw a "new" TBR pipe that had a 
reduced diameter also, so perhaps they've changed the pipe.  

I have never seen a Supertrap on a Hawk in real life, only in pictures.  
I don't know much about them, except that there is some measure of 
adjustability in the pipe since you can remove/add plates to 
decrease/increase flow rate and decrease/increase noise level.  

Jetting is (to me anyway) as important (or more) than the choice of 
pipe.  

I bought a used TBR (great price/performance there) and after thinking 
about the jetting for a long while, put in a Dynojet Stage 7 kit.  I run 
the stock airbox with the smallest jets that came in the kit.  I have no 
hesitation anywhere in the rpm range.  It pulls well from 2000-past 
redline.  I tried taking off the airbox top, and thought about putting on 
UNI filters, but it was WAY too noisy for me.  It seemed to rattle my 
poor little brain to death.  I had a headache from the noise.  

When I get the bike on the track, I'll put on UNI's, but for now, the 
Hawk does triple duty.  I deliver newspapers every morning on it, then 
commute to school, and shred pavement on the weekends. 

Phil Calvin                                                 HawkGT DoD#242



------------------------------

From wroof@ns1.netside.com Mon Sep 18 07:29 PDT 1995
Subject: HawkGT: Main jets front/rear

        The manual specifies, and my bike came with, a larger main jet in
thr front than the rear. However, I've heard people refer to the REAR
cylinder running hotter than the front, and looking at the cooling system
diagram, it looks like this should be the case, as the water flows around
the front cylinder before it reaches the back. If the rear does run hotter,
shouldn't the larger jet be in the back? What am I missing here?

        Airbox follies: I also got better midrange by getting rid of my
individual filters and going back to the airbox without the top. It was
explained to me that CV carbs need calm air to draw from if the slides are
to lift correctly. Whatever the cause, with the airbox, the bike pulls
adequately from 3k, with individual foam filters, from 4k. But I do miss the
wonderful noises the bike made with individual filters!

 
Dave Roof       "If law school is so hard, then why are there so many lawyers?"

wroof@mail.netside.com  w.roof@genie.geis.com [Yane]  '85 BMW K100RT [Waltraude]
West Columbia SC  BMWMOA 68743  HRCA  Conebutt        '88 Honda Hawk [Jason]
IBMWR Principal Euphonium



------------------------------

From wroof@ns1.netside.com Mon Sep 18 07:29 PDT 1995
Subject: HawkGT: Pro-Tek 520 conversion kit

        I bought the Pro-Tek 520 conversion kit direct from the maker
(sounds like the whole operation is one guy who machines, answers phones,
etc) and am well pleased. I got a chain, and front and rear sprockets (stock
sizes) UPSed to my door in two days for $131.23. I could have saved about
$20 by ordering the chain from Competition instead.

        I'm a little dubious about the longevity of the aluminum rear
sprocket, but even if I have to replace it with every chain, it will cost
about the same as a 525 chain. The rear is a nice looking piece, and you can
get it anodized in various colors.

Dave Roof       "If law school is so hard, then why are there so many lawyers?"

wroof@mail.netside.com  w.roof@genie.geis.com [Yane]  '85 BMW K100RT [Waltraude]
West Columbia SC  BMWMOA 68743  HRCA  Conebutt        '88 Honda Hawk [Jason]
IBMWR Principal Euphonium



------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Mon Sep 18 08:02 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Euro Hawk?

>So. In the process of acquiring my new Hawk (well, it's half mine), I
>learned that they still make them, sort of. They're sold in Europe as a
>small touring bike. Same bike but with 5-gal gas tank, steel frame, drive
>shaft, and a different name which escapes me now.

It's a Hawk, but has a 5-gal tank, steel frame, and drive shaft?  Bummer.

>My source, who was a friend from Germany participating in the Iron Butt,
>said his girlfriend has one and the bikes have a reputation for great
>reliability (I like that.)

This seems to be pretty true of most Honda products (no I ain't affiliated
with the company...)

>As strictly a Beemer owner up to now, I have to say I like the idea of the
>drive shaft. And has anyone ever tried putting the 5-gal tank on a Hawk?

Ugh, and ugh.  Shaft drives are HEAVY.  They are POWER WASTING.  True, you
don't have to tighten or replace them like a chain.  But it isn't a Hawk
anymore (to me).  If you want huge gas tanks and shaft drive, I'd pick up
another Beemer.

Of course, I have no problems with adding an aftermarket pipe, jetkit,
seat, shock, springs, fairing, etc. and still calling it a Hawk.  Heh heh.
I guess it's all a matter of perspective...

FINALLY gonna get the new brake lines today for the dual front disk action.
I've heard and voiced my own concerns about having one caliper fore and
one aft of the forks, so I'll do a full report here in the next few days.
For those of you who haven't heard the idea (stolen from JimDuc916) of
using two left fork legs and turning one around so the brake caliper is in
FRONT of the fork.  I believe that there IS a matter of different dive
forces in each fork, but my theory is that it'll be minor enough as to be
not noticeable.  Well, we'll see.

See y'all,

Hugh




------------------------------

From vgregory@mckinley.den.mmc.com Mon Sep 18 08:31 PDT 1995
Subject: Re:  fairing

Ned sed:
        Can someone give me any info on the fairing options for the gt?
--------------------

(Ooh, look, I made a rhyme.)  I'm not sure what else is available, but
Targa makes a fairing for the Hawk - b'lieve it's called the Tsunami.
I like it - smooths out crosswind flow (I get a LOT of crosswind on my
commute), is just tall enough that I can lay on the tankbag and get
everything below the helmet out of the wind (nice on the cold mornings)
AND seems to get rid of the dreaded 2 o'clock wind stall.  Some on the
list think it's ugly, I think it's okay - color matches well (I've got
a red one), and the lines fit in fairly well.  Cost is (I think) around
$275 (that was from a Honda dealer).  I think it's in the Dennis Kirk
catalog as well.

You can also get a full fairing for the Hawk, but I don't know the
particulars.

Val Gregory
'90 Hawk GT - "Redtailed"
DoD #1258


------------------------------

From bkrett@holly.ColoState.EDU Mon Sep 18 09:09 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: HawkGT: Main jets front/rear

>         The manual specifies, and my bike came with, a larger main jet in
> thr front than the rear. However, I've heard people refer to the REAR
> cylinder running hotter than the front, and looking at the cooling system
> diagram, it looks like this should be the case, as the water flows around
> the front cylinder before it reaches the back. If the rear does run hotter,
> shouldn't the larger jet be in the back? What am I missing here?

	I always had the understanding that the main jet are smaller in 
the rear cylinder not due to the engine temp, but more likely due to the 
routing of the exhaust header. The front header isn't anywhere near as 
twisty as the rear header and for that reason they change the jet size. 
This might also explain the pipe design of the TBR pipe that is routed 
completly differently relative to the stock pipes. 
	So I was at the races this weekend and was looking at a VFR750 
parked on the side of the road. I started looking at the gas tank and 
noticed that is has a similar design to the hawks tank. The question is, 
can a VFR750 tank go onto a hawk? I didn't get out the ruler so I only 
have the image in my head but there may be the possibility. Has anybody 
tried this swap or has access to a VFR tank?


						Brian Krett
						MRA#139	
						88' blue



------------------------------

From mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil Mon Sep 18 09:13 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Euro Hawk?

>>My source, who was a friend from Germany participating in the Iron Butt,
>>said his girlfriend has one and the bikes have a reputation for great
>>reliability (I like that.)

>This seems to be pretty true of most Honda products (no I ain't affiliated
>with the company...)

31.5K miles on mine so far, running great.

>FINALLY gonna get the new brake lines today for the dual front disk action.
>I've heard and voiced my own concerns about having one caliper fore and
>one aft of the forks, so I'll do a full report here in the next few days.
>For those of you who haven't heard the idea (stolen from JimDuc916) of
>using two left fork legs and turning one around so the brake caliper is in
>FRONT of the fork.  I believe that there IS a matter of different dive
>forces in each fork, but my theory is that it'll be minor enough as to be
>not noticeable.  Well, we'll see.

I missed this if it was discussed on the list before.  If it works, it should
look, uh, interesting.  I don't know why you'd want to do this, unless you 
already had the parts.  Even so, why not sell them and buy a CB-1 right-hand
fork leg and caliper?  I assume you're using something like an F2 wheel with
two Hawk rotors, is that right?

David Mackintosh      '82 245 Turbo  '92 Sovereign  '95 Moda  '89 Hawk GT
mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil         Germantown, MD, USA          DoD #1360



------------------------------

From MAILER-DAEMON Mon Sep 18 09:27 PDT 1995
Subject: Returned mail: Cannot send message for 3 days

The original message was received at Fri, 15 Sep 1995 09:25:42 -0700
from chalice.firewall.dsea.com [204.30.91.193]

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Date: Fri, 15 Sep 1995 09:07:09 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 
Message-Id: <199509151607.JAA13850@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: Differences in the years?
Content-Length: 338


I know at least one difference.  The post-88 ones have
a threaded forward tank-locator bushing.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097




------------------------------

From MEL1523@ACS.TAMU.EDU Mon Sep 18 11:24 PDT 1995
Subject: Re:  fairing


Val sez:

;AND seems to get rid of the dreaded 2 o'clock wind stall.  Some on the
;list think it's ugly, I think it's okay - color matches well (I've got
;a red one), and the lines fit in fairly well.  Cost is (I think) around

You can see for yourself and make up your own mind on the Web page.  Mine is 
there in matching gray.  So are other mods.

 - Mitch



------------------------------

From greaney@ee.unr.edu Mon Sep 18 11:28 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Euro Hawk?

> 
> >>My source, who was a friend from Germany participating in the Iron Butt,
> >>said his girlfriend has one and the bikes have a reputation for great
> >>reliability (I like that.)
> 
> >This seems to be pretty true of most Honda products (no I ain't affiliated
> >with the company...)
> 
> 31.5K miles on mine so far, running great.

I'm at 24.5k, and good as ever.

> >FINALLY gonna get the new brake lines today for the dual front disk action.
> >I've heard and voiced my own concerns about having one caliper fore and
> >one aft of the forks, so I'll do a full report here in the next few days.
> >For those of you who haven't heard the idea (stolen from JimDuc916) of
> >using two left fork legs and turning one around so the brake caliper is in
> >FRONT of the fork.  I believe that there IS a matter of different dive
> >forces in each fork, but my theory is that it'll be minor enough as to be
> >not noticeable.  Well, we'll see.
> 
> I missed this if it was discussed on the list before.  If it works, it should
> look, uh, interesting.  I don't know why you'd want to do this, unless you 
> already had the parts.  Even so, why not sell them and buy a CB-1 right-hand
> fork leg and caliper?  I assume you're using something like an F2 wheel with
> two Hawk rotors, is that right?

Aha!  Hugh explained this to me (because I originally wanted to do the CB1
leg too):  The caliper mounting point for the CB1 leg is about 10mm lower
(is that right, Hugh?) than is the Hawk caliper.  Now, I guess you could
mount a CB1 rotor onto the right side of an F2 wheel if the bolt patterns
are the same.  If you use a second Hawk rotor, you have to machine it
down 10mm or so to fit the caliper mount, etc.  Argh, so many possibilities. 


C-ya,

Mike
--
Mike Nielsen       e: greaney@unr.edu       v: 702.784.4752


------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Mon Sep 18 15:09 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: 2 Left Legs?

>>FINALLY gonna get the new brake lines today for the dual front disk action.
>>I've heard and voiced my own concerns about having one caliper fore and
>>one aft of the forks, so I'll do a full report here in the next few days.
>>For those of you who haven't heard the idea (stolen from JimDuc916) of
>>using two left fork legs and turning one around so the brake caliper is in
>>FRONT of the fork.  I believe that there IS a matter of different dive
>>forces in each fork, but my theory is that it'll be minor enough as to be
>>not noticeable.  Well, we'll see.
>
>I missed this if it was discussed on the list before.  If it works, it should
>look, uh, interesting.

Heh heh.  Hawkenstein lives.

>I don't know why you'd want to do this, unless you
>already had the parts.

Why?  Because I couldn't FIND a CB-1 leg (seems like they almost don't
EXIST), and certainly couldn't get one for the same price...thanks Jeff!
Also, I thought it would be kewl.  An oddity.  Neato.  And if I DO find a
CB-1 leg that's cheap, I can always throw it on there.  Plus, I like to
experiment.

>Even so, why not sell them and buy a CB-1 right-hand
>fork leg and caliper?

I'm lazy, I have the other one, and I'm a freak....plus there is some
question as to the "guts", as well as the caliper mounts.  This avoids the
issue entirely.

>I assume you're using something like an F2 wheel with
>two Hawk rotors, is that right?

Yes, indeedy.  Once I get the full fairing finished and mounted (this
winter), it's gonna REALLY be a freak-child bastardization.

Yummy!

Hugh




------------------------------

From briggsw@microsoft.com Mon Sep 18 15:17 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: Pipes




>
> What is the best pipe for the money?
> I hear that TBR is very expensive.  Looks great though.
> Tell me about the MVR.  Is it better?  Faster?
> No one on the list has ever just laid it out on the line...
> TBR- ???
> MVR- ???
> Supertrapp- ??
> Whatever- ??
> Stats, prices, problems?

    


I have never seen a Supertrap on a Hawk in real life, only in pictures.
I don't know much about them, except that there is some measure of
adjustability in the pipe since you can remove/add plates to
decrease/increase flow rate and decrease/increase noise level.

Jetting is (to me anyway) as important (or more) than the choice of
pipe.

I bought a used TBR (great price/performance there) and after thinking
about the jetting for a long while, put in a Dynojet Stage 7 kit.

In the past season, I have run my race Hawk with a Supertrapp, a TBR (in   
fact, Phil bought it), and now a D&D.  The Supertrapp is the easiest to   
Jet, with no flat spot.  The TBR pulls harder the Supertrapp, but is   
extremely difficult to jet, and has a notorious flat spot.  The D&D is,   
IMHO, the best.  It pulls much harder than the TBR, and although it is   
almost as hard to jet as the TBR, transitions into power seem to be much   
smoother.  The D&D is the one I'm going to stick with for a while.  It   
looks and sounds just as good as the TBR.
A disadvantage is that it my interfere with passenger pegs on a   
streetbike.  

#
begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT
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M&````$E032Y-:6-R;W-O9G0@36%I;"Y.;W1E`#$(`0V`!``"`````@`"``$$
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M``!213H@4&EP97,````"`7$``0```!8````!NH8%>_PUV-Y7[VH1SHZ1`*H`
M/R_3```#``80W.J!0@,`!Q`U!```'@`($`$```!E````5TA!5$E35$A%0D53
M5%!)4$5&3U)42$5-3TY%63])2$5!4E1(05140E))4U9%4EE%6%!%3E-)5D5,
M3T]+4T=214%45$A/54=(5$5,3$U%04)/55142$5-5E))4TE40D545$52/P``
M```"`0D0`0```,D$``#%!```T0<``$Q:1G7KK8QQ_P`*`0\"%0*H!>L"@P!0
M`O()`@!C:`K`T#,V(!<44>L+\B$=/B085Q&`!4`$`&@@
M=&@8(&('D`5`<#\%(!@@`A`%P"7"!&!N9>1Y/R0G22`ET`K!)<#/R)+LP\C:+4P&0=+QS+"9`!1`8H#CC
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M6T!H"H5*+@$+@&?DK=D%P07-%H';_4/%?,B63)6(%0&1!>X%6X7]#PF438L$1L!X0,1$F
M<&??!"`]XQ/`"=$"4&D7L"MV!1CA`(H``````P`0$`(````#`!$0`0```$``
L!S!`)5^D!(:Z`4``"#!`)5^D!(:Z`1X`/0`!````!0```%)%.B``````LMH`
`
end
#


------------------------------

From mudpuppy@gibbs.oit.unc.edu Mon Sep 18 16:14 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: Pipes


Briggs writes:
> 
> In the past season, I have run my race Hawk with a Supertrapp, a TBR (in   
> fact, Phil bought it), and now a D&D.  The Supertrapp is the easiest to   
> Jet, with no flat spot.  The TBR pulls harder the Supertrapp, but is   
> extremely difficult to jet, and has a notorious flat spot.  

I do not have a flat spot anywhere.  It pulls everywhere.  I used a Stage 
7 Dynojet kit.

Perhaps if I were to use pod filters, and tweak other parts of my engine, 
I may be able to create some flat spots, but right now, I don't.  

In fact, someone who races hawks said that very thing to me.  Basically,
once you start messing with the engine internals (bigger pistons, race
cams, ignition advancers, etc) you end up with a higher peak power, but you
start having serious trouble down low. 

The sound of the TBR pipe is pretty neat, I must admit.  I think mine is 
ready for a repack though.

Phil


------------------------------

From scutchin@vt.edu Mon Sep 18 16:16 PDT 1995
Subject: front brake rotors


With all this talk of dual front disks I was wondering if anyone has 
considered replacing the stock rotor with a cast iron one by Braking, 
Brembo, etc.  I am willing to bet that one quality aftermarket rotor will 
probably offer braking power at least equal to two stock rotors while 
offering less unsprung weight (better acceleration, improved suspension 
action and better wheelies!!!)  What more could we ask for?  
I was going to look for prices in my Street & Competition catalog but I am 
having a bit of difficulty locating it.  I also wanted to check on who 
offered rotors and also if better calipers are available.

Steve '89 700cc

I was talking with my roommate(600 Ninja) last night while I was taking the 
shock off of my bike (I bought DFJL's CBR900 unit - thanks again, Dave.)  
Ninja boy was trying to persuade me to buy the brand new '94 ZX-7 I saw for 
$6999, which admittadly is a good deal.  In talking to him I realized that I 
don't think I will ever sell the Hawk.  It will definitely not be my only 
bike forever (I could see myself on a VFR750, R1100RS, ZX6 or 6R or 7) but I 
think it will always find a home in my stable.  There isn't an aftermarket 
item not offered, great looks, wonderful handling, and that strange elitist 
feeling I get every time an F2/F3 pilot stares.  Hell, I have even had 
HARLEY riders (and a cop who pulled me over for expired tags) tell me "nice 
bike."  I guess as everyone on this list already knows, our little Hawks 
just seem special.  Every thing I do to it just makes it better.  I just 
wonder what it will have turned into ten years from now?!

Enjoy



------------------------------

From bkrett@holly.ColoState.EDU Mon Sep 18 18:23 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: 2 Left Legs+ aftermarket rotors 

> >>I've heard and voiced my own concerns about having one caliper fore and
> >>one aft of the forks, so I'll do a full report here in the next few days.
> >>FRONT of the fork.  I believe that there IS a matter of different dive
> >>forces in each fork, but my theory is that it'll be minor enough as to be
> >>not noticeable.  

	I think the real problem of the caliper for and aft is the torque 
forces on the mounting points. When the caliper is mounted in the reverse 
direction there is going to be quite a lot of pull on those two mounting 
points. I couldn't say if it would be enough to brake the mounts; and the 
force would be theoretically divided between two calipers but I sure 
wouldn't want to have to mount break on me while riding.
	There was a letter posted about fitting an aftermarket rotor to 
their bike. I have mounted a brembo aftermarket disk to my race bike this 
race season. I think that the feel is slightly better then to stock brake 
rotor and it definetly looks a bit better. I think with the cost of the 
rotor and the special mounting bracket for the caliper I would have to 
say that an F2 front end would be the way to go. Definetly more bang for 
the buck, you end up getting two disks and a wider front rim which will 
help in front end feel and allows use of better rubber, even some D364's 
if you desire. 


						Brian Krett
						MRA#139
						88' Hawk blue


------------------------------

From Hawknt@aol.com Mon Sep 18 20:41 PDT 1995
Subject: Chain Adjustment

Has anyone else had unusually long periods between chain adjustments?  I
bought my '89 in January with 6600 miles on it.  I've put on 3500 miles since
then and have not had to adjust the chain once.  It's still closer to the "A"
on the gauge than the "B".  I've been using the chain wax every 300 or so
miles and have cleaned it twice in that time.  With every other bike I've
had, it's been ~600-1000 miles and the chain needed adjustment.  Just
curious.

Stuart (Hawknt)


------------------------------

From cavenewt@wyoming.com Mon Sep 18 23:06 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Euro Hawk?

>From Hugh:
>Ugh, and ugh.  Shaft drives are HEAVY.  They are POWER WASTING.  True, you
>don't have to tighten or replace them like a chain.  But it isn't a Hawk
>anymore (to me).  If you want huge gas tanks and shaft drive, I'd pick up
>another Beemer.
>

Don't worry, one Beemer is enough for me, and I'm not trying to turn the
Hawk into one. I wasn't really aware of the downsides of shaft drive (hey,
this is my first *little* bike. I'm not used to thinking in terms of a
little extra weight.)

--Colleen

----------------------------------------------------------------
Colleen Thompson                            cavenewt@wyoming.com
................................................................
   >Newt Boot<   carrying case for Newton and similar PDAs
    >YES! Pigs Can Fly<   art rubber stamps by mail order
................................................................

                 1/2 of a 1989 Honda Hawk
   1994 BMW R1100RS with 43,000 happy miles and counting...
----------------------------------------------------------------




------------------------------

From cavenewt@wyoming.com Mon Sep 18 23:06 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Honda Bros ( 'Euro Hawk' )

Dave wrote:

>I'm very curious why your getting a European version in Wyoming ? Is there a
>story here ?  You mention riding the Hawk, was it an American market Hawk, or
>the one you're looking into ?


Thanks for the info. I'm not getting a European bike, I've got a nice
spiffy USA version. It's just that I only just heard of the European one
and wondered if anybody had tried the bigger gas tank on a US Hawk.
Apparently they have, and it doesn't work.

I have a BMW and like the shaft drive. The paralever essentially prevents
the rising-rear effect. My R1100 has plenty of get-up-and-go but I can see
where a shaft on a smaller engine would reduce efficiency; but it's darn
good for doing oodles and oodles of miles.

The Hawk was very comfortable when I rode it 1600 miles in a few days. I
was intrigued that there is a touring version (which is how my German
friend described it to me; his girlfriend has one).

--Colleen


----------------------------------------------------------------
Colleen Thompson                            cavenewt@wyoming.com
................................................................
   >Newt Boot<   carrying case for Newton and similar PDAs
    >YES! Pigs Can Fly<   art rubber stamps by mail order
................................................................

                 1/2 of a 1989 Honda Hawk
   1994 BMW R1100RS with 43,000 happy miles and counting...
----------------------------------------------------------------




------------------------------

From AKAMATSUK@aol.com Mon Sep 18 23:06 PDT 1995
Subject: Kosman Cast Iron Rotors

Has anyone out there tried the Kosman full floating cast iron disk rotor?

I'm looking at the Kosman advertising for it in the Oct. issue of City Bike.
The ad is specifically aimed at the Hawk with a picture of the rotor
and a big bold title "Halt Your Hawk!" above it.  Judging by the picture, it
looks
like a true full floating setup with a separate aluminum carrier that bolts
onto the stock mounting point on the wheel.  Sure looks trick.

They claim in the ad that it will work with the stock caliper and for a
limited time, they're throwing in a free set of Ferodo pads. No price
is mentioned.

If you're interest, call Kosman @ 415-861-4262

Sounds and looks really tempting.

Ken
'89 NT650
'77 CB550F SS
'94 Bontrager R-Lite


------------------------------

From RGGAMMA@aol.com Tue Sep 19 06:39 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: front brake rotors

>how about an iron rotor, and stay with one disk to keep unsprung weight low<

I have put a six pot ISR caliper and a single Kosman iron rotor on my wifes
red 88. I also replaced the master cyl with a Kaw ZX7RR master with remote
res.  The bike will now out brake my 916 by two bikelengths from 100 mph.
 The Kaw master was $80 from a Breaker.  The ISR caliper $300 (ordered for my
KTM Duke but offered no better braking than the stock Brembo 4 pot unit,
looked coooooool tho.)

Cheers

Randy


------------------------------

From CYoung3312@aol.com Tue Sep 19 07:04 PDT 1995
Subject: hawkgt@dsea.com

I've just obtained an 88 Hawk GT. i was given your name and told you could
get me on the Hawkgt info forum. I'm not used to the internet or computers in
general ( anymore). Any help would be appreciated. I believe I can be mailed
info on the AOL. 
Thanx much.
Colin R. Young


------------------------------

From Hairbag@aol.com Tue Sep 19 07:04 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Honda Bros ( 'Euro Hawk' )

I've heard to the contrary, that the VFR tank does work, there is just some
adaptation required to the implant organ and to the implant recipient to
adapt to the Hawk tank mounting system. I have a project Hawk in my garage,
and a spare VFR (94) gas tank.
I just walked out and tried the fit. It will work with some minor mods to
both the tank and the bikes' mounting scheme. Neither a big deal if someone
really wanted to do this. Looking at it now, I think that if one were
properly inclined, he could devise a scheme to easily interchange the two on
short notice..

Some people think that you can't get a VFR rear wheel on either... 

My question is why would anyone want to add so much weight to such a light
bike?? When she's all cleaned up the stock tank looks just about perfect.

Of course out in Wyoming, perhaps there is some serious distance between
fill-ups. I've got one '94 VFR tank (used - slighlty dented) that I would
consider selling, sans gas cap. Mr. Honda is funding his retirement with the
sale of the gas caps for these things (they're really expensive)
Make me an offer. Not only will the tank fit, so will your Hawk gas cap. If
you really want the gas cap, make an offer on that too, yes I have the key to
it (wouldn't be much good without it)




------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Tue Sep 19 07:16 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: front brake rotors


     
>With all this talk of dual front disks I was wondering if anyone has 
>considered replacing the stock rotor with a cast iron one by Braking, 
>Brembo, etc.  I am willing to bet that one quality aftermarket rotor will 
>probably offer braking power at least equal to two stock rotors while 
>offering less unsprung weight (better acceleration, improved suspension 
>action and better wheelies!!!)  What more could we ask for?  
>I was going to look for prices in my Street & Competition catalog but I am 
>having a bit of difficulty locating it.  I also wanted to check on who 
>offered rotors and also if better calipers are available.

Kosman Racing (in San Francisco) makes a cast iron rotor for the stock
wheel.  I have a F2 front end on my bike and I put the Braking Brake
Systems semi-floating rotors on my front end along with Galfer (green)
pads.  Stops real nice ;-)

Jeff
     

     



------------------------------

From 102136.3317@compuserve.com Tue Sep 19 07:23 PDT 1995
Subject: re:  Kossman rotors

The Kossman rotor is a full floater, and has a replaceable disc.

It's also $350.


Mark



------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Tue Sep 19 12:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Rear Rear head

On Fri, 15 Sep 1995 Gumby647@aol.com wrote:

>     Hey Hawk Racers, like Brian and DC
> 
>   Do you guys know how much of an advantage there is to running 2 rear heads?
> I'm 
> looking for more power and will be making a new exhaust anyway. I don't want
> to spend
> $350 for a new head if it's not much improvement.
> 

Well, I have a stock setup on mine.  From those I know whove done the 
rear-rear conversions, it's more of a pain in the ass than it's worth.  I 
think spending your $350 on some good port work might be a little better 
idea.

All things considered, however, I'll defer to Brian H.'s judgement, since 
has the setup and I do not.

C ya
DC



------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Tue Sep 19 12:11 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: HawkGT: Main jets front/rear

On Mon, 18 Sep 1995, wroof wrote:

>         The manual specifies, and my bike came with, a larger main jet in
> thr front than the rear. However, I've heard people refer to the REAR
> cylinder running hotter than the front, and looking at the cooling system
> diagram, it looks like this should be the case, as the water flows around
> the front cylinder before it reaches the back. If the rear does run hotter,
> shouldn't the larger jet be in the back? What am I missing here?
> 

Remember: the cooler the air, the denser it is, and the leaner the 
mixture.  Ergo, the coooler cylinder will need the larger jet to 
compensate for the temperature difference.

DC



------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Tue Sep 19 12:17 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Euro Hawk?

> >FINALLY gonna get the new brake lines today for the dual front disk action.
> >I've heard and voiced my own concerns about having one caliper fore and
> >one aft of the forks, so I'll do a full report here in the next few days.
> >For those of you who haven't heard the idea (stolen from JimDuc916) of
> >using two left fork legs and turning one around so the brake caliper is in
> >FRONT of the fork.  I believe that there IS a matter of different dive
> >forces in each fork, but my theory is that it'll be minor enough as to be
> >not noticeable.  Well, we'll see.
> 
> I missed this if it was discussed on the list before.  If it works, it should
> look, uh, interesting.  I don't know why you'd want to do this, unless you 
> already had the parts.  Even so, why not sell them and buy a CB-1 right-hand
> fork leg and caliper?  I assume you're using something like an F2 wheel with
> two Hawk rotors, is that right?

Well, don't you think finding a CB1 is hard enough?  Try finding one, and 
the persuading the owner to sell you, not both, but just one of their 
fork legs.  Good luck.

Why not just save the hacking and slaying altogether?  Get a GSXR750 or 
CBR900 caliper for $50, make yourself a bracket to mount it on the stock 
rotor, and do stoppies to your hearts content.  Ask Brian H. about this
setup...

DC



------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Tue Sep 19 12:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Differences in the years?

Just for the record- the only internal motor differences are a couple of 
meaningless retaining plates behind the clutch, ignition rotor, and 
starter drive.

Of course, they wouldn't be meaningless if you lost them- I just meant 
you wouldn't notice them wthout being told . . .

C ya
DC



------------------------------

From CABethel@aol.com Tue Sep 19 14:55 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Chain Adjustment

Stuart asked about chain adjustment intervals. I have 12,000 miles on an '88
and have had to adjust the chain twice. I'm a fairly sedate street rider, but
I did use the bike at two C.L.A.S.S. schools & pounded it pretty hard. I
clean the chain with WD-40 and use chain wax every so often as well.


------------------------------

From jamesm@calweb.com Tue Sep 19 15:08 PDT 1995
Subject: FAQ compendium and a Web page


I'm willing to put in the effort to compile a Web page (perhaps the
"official Hawk Mailing List Page") and make it available.  Items of
interest would be answers to FAQs about Hawks and tuning info.  

So, if you would be so kind, please send your answer(s) to the following
questions, and any other info you think would be appropriate.  These
appear to cover the bulk of the repeat traffic on the list.  Please
answer as many as you can, as completely as you can.


o Pipes.  What pipe do you run?  Race or street?  Too loud?  Any flat spots?
  What jet kit did you use?  Airbox or pods?  Can I keep the centerstand?
  Alternate baffles available?  

o Tires.  What tires have you found to your liking?  What tires just don't
  work?

o Alternate front ends.  F2, GSX-R, etc.

o Alternate brakes.  Rotor, caliper, or both?  

o Bodywork. Kits to attach full or half fairings?  

o Cams.  What works?  Flat spots?  Jetting problems?

o Piston kits.  What works?  Lots o' vibration?  Other problems?  

o 520 chain conversions.  What kit have you used?  Happy with it?  Worth the 
  effort?

o Alternate gas tanks?


If you have GIF or JPEG images of your nicely turned-out Hawk, send them
on. 


------
james montebello - rider of tupperware, driver of a large body of water 



------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Tue Sep 19 15:38 PDT 1995
Subject: Party?  Friday, October 13th (when else?), Skyline

Well, as there seem to be a fair number of Hawk freaks in the SF Bay Area,
and since it is rare for all of us to see each other, I decided to hold a
small get together.  You others are invited too.  =)

Who:  Members of the Hawk GT and Ducati lists, BA Tuesday Dinner Ride List,
their motorcycles, and support crews (significant others? relatives? trusty
mechanix?).  Cages discouraged (we have modest parking difficulties due to
the heavy rains last winter), but not forbidden.

What:  A get together, gathering, good time, to-do.  BBQ coals, beer,
sodas, snax, views, tunz, etc. will be provided by the management.  BYO BBQ
goods, chit-chat, tall-tales, instruments-of-destruction, appetites, and
good-luck charms (Fri. 13th).

Where:  20555 Skyline Boulevard, in Woodside.  EXACTLY 6 miles (somewhat
more for Hawks?!?!  Never noticed...) south of Highway 84, which is the
intersection where Alice's Restaurant is located.  So, it's 280 to Hwy 84
(Woodside Road).  84 West to 35 (Skyline).  This will be your 2ND stop sign
after leaving 280, about 6-7 miles up 84.  Left (south) on Skyline for
exactly 6 miles.  Look for the flashing red dot on the mailbox on the left.
Take a left down the driveway, past the mailbox.  WARNING!  WARNING!
WARNING!  WARNING!  WARNING!  WARNING!  WARNING!  WARNING!  THE DRIVEWAY IS
LONG AND DIRT!  It sux!  BIG holes!  Gravel!  Take your time!  I recommend
staying to the left edge on the way down, right on the way back up.  We
have had 1 crash in the past, and it was a real bummer, so DON'T crash,
goddammit.  ALSO:  Highway 84 is also kinda crazy, if you've never been up
it.  Take your time.  Don't say I didn't warn ye.  Email me for alternate
route choice directions (from Santa Cruz, PageMill Road, Hawaii).

When:  1900 hours (that's 7:00 pm, for you civilians), sharp.  Well, not
really "sharp", but it's nice to get up there when the sun is setting.
Neato, keen.

Why:  Well, it has to do with the sheer craziness of dozens of motorcycles
zipping through the mountains on Friday the 13th.  Sort of a testing of the
superstition.  DON'T allow me to receive any unwanted superstitious
conditioning (ie. DON'T CRASH!).

How:  Slip into yer kevlar-armored, teflon-coated, impact-resistant,
fallout-proofed, vented (for comfort), color-coordinated riding
suit/boots/gloves, hop on yer machine of choice (I prefer...nah, can't say
it), grab a slab o' yer favorite grilling tidbit (I prefer beef, being a
"real person"), adopt a suitable attitude (brimming with vim? swerving with
verve?), and come on up.

WARNING:  There WILL be alcohol present, and as many of you will be riding
bikes, I ask that you carefully monitor your intake.  I WON'T be
responsible for your poor judgement, as I am hardly responsible enough for
my own.  For those who wish (dare?), there is AMPLE floor/camping/barn
space for the evening, and Alice's for breakfast on Saturday.

Hope to see you there!

Hugh




------------------------------

From greaney@ee.unr.edu Tue Sep 19 17:46 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Party?  Friday, October 13th (when else?), Skyline

> 
> Well, as there seem to be a fair number of Hawk freaks in the SF Bay Area,
> and since it is rare for all of us to see each other, I decided to hold a
> small get together.  You others are invited too.  =)

YOU ARE A GOD!!!!!.

Count me in, matey. 

C-Ya,

Mike

PS - I'll find a way to carry the Sam Adams this time (withOUT the cage!).


------------------------------

From Gumby647@aol.com Tue Sep 19 18:43 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Kosman Cast Iron Rotors

  I'm using a kosman rotor on my race bike, it works good. Being a cast iron
rotor it 
gets rusty real fast if it gets wet.

                                                                    Gumby



------------------------------

From Gregbud@aol.com Tue Sep 19 23:42 PDT 1995
Subject: 900RR shock/chain

I just completed the 'ol 900RR to Hawk shock swap on my '88, man oh man, best
$100 to performance ratio I've ever spent. I followed everyones advice and
the process was suprisingly easy on my otherwise mostly stock hawk
(progressives,braided lines etc..) Everthing seems to work fine, both stands
work as well as before, the only hitch I had was with the stock muffler
canister/blob thing and the now lower swingarm knocking together (barely)
when the bike is on its center stand - no matter it will soon be replaced
with one of the aftermarket pipes. 
Anyway the point - my real question -  is, does anyone have any Ideas on how
to "properly" adjust my chain now that the ride height has been raised a
couple of inches? I know I should expect increased chain guide wear, is there
a way I can minimize this? Should I worry about it?
Question #2: I've heard mention of a Hawk Home Page/FAQ does one exist
already? if so whats its address?

Thanks, Gregbud@aol.com


------------------------------

From mkessler@moose.uvm.edu Wed Sep 20 07:21 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Party? Friday, October 13th (when else?), Skyline

On Tue, 19 Sep 1995, Hugh A. MacMullan IV wrote:

> Well, as there seem to be a fair number of Hawk freaks in the SF Bay Area,
> and since it is rare for all of us to see each other, I decided to hold a
> small get together.  You others are invited too.  =)
> 
> Who:  Members of the Hawk GT and Ducati lists, BA Tuesday Dinner Ride List,
> their motorcycles, and support crews (significant others? relatives? trusty
> mechanix?).  Cages discouraged (we have modest parking difficulties due to
> the heavy rains last winter), but not forbidden.
> 
> What:  A get together, gathering, good time, to-do.  BBQ coals, beer,
> sodas, snax, views, tunz, etc. will be provided by the management.  BYO BBQ
> goods, chit-chat, tall-tales, instruments-of-destruction, appetites, and
> good-luck charms (Fri. 13th).
> 
> Where:  20555 Skyline Boulevard, in Woodside.  EXACTLY 6 miles (somewhat
> more for Hawks?!?!  Never noticed...) south of Highway 84, which is the
> intersection where Alice's Restaurant is located.  So, it's 280 to Hwy 84
> (Woodside Road).  84 West to 35 (Skyline).  This will be your 2ND stop sign
> after leaving 280, about 6-7 miles up 84.  Left (south) on Skyline for
> exactly 6 miles.  Look for the flashing red dot on the mailbox on the left.
> Take a left down the driveway, past the mailbox.  WARNING!  WARNING!
> WARNING!  WARNING!  WARNING!  WARNING!  WARNING!  WARNING!  THE DRIVEWAY IS
> LONG AND DIRT!  It sux!  BIG holes!  Gravel!  Take your time!  I recommend
> staying to the left edge on the way down, right on the way back up.  We
> have had 1 crash in the past, and it was a real bummer, so DON'T crash,
> goddammit.  ALSO:  Highway 84 is also kinda crazy, if you've never been up
> it.  Take your time.  Don't say I didn't warn ye.  Email me for alternate
> route choice directions (from Santa Cruz, PageMill Road, Hawaii).
> 
> When:  1900 hours (that's 7:00 pm, for you civilians), sharp.  Well, not
> really "sharp", but it's nice to get up there when the sun is setting.
> Neato, keen.
> 
> Why:  Well, it has to do with the sheer craziness of dozens of motorcycles
> zipping through the mountains on Friday the 13th.  Sort of a testing of the
> superstition.  DON'T allow me to receive any unwanted superstitious
> conditioning (ie. DON'T CRASH!).
> 
> How:  Slip into yer kevlar-armored, teflon-coated, impact-resistant,
> fallout-proofed, vented (for comfort), color-coordinated riding
> suit/boots/gloves, hop on yer machine of choice (I prefer...nah, can't say
> it), grab a slab o' yer favorite grilling tidbit (I prefer beef, being a
> "real person"), adopt a suitable attitude (brimming with vim? swerving with
> verve?), and come on up.
> 
> WARNING:  There WILL be alcohol present, and as many of you will be riding
> bikes, I ask that you carefully monitor your intake.  I WON'T be
> responsible for your poor judgement, as I am hardly responsible enough for
> my own.  For those who wish (dare?), there is AMPLE floor/camping/barn
> space for the evening, and Alice's for breakfast on Saturday.
> 
> Hope to see you there!
> 
> Hugh
> 
> 
> 


Damn, you folks in California have all the fun.  Doc Wong and this too. 
It almost makes me want to move out there.  

=============================================================================
Marc Kessler  DoD # 1218 AMA # 644782 1988 Honda NT650 
E-Mail mkessler@moose.uvm.edu
============================================================================



------------------------------

From cavenewt@wyoming.com Wed Sep 20 08:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Gas Tank

--->Of course out in Wyoming, perhaps there is some serious distance between
fill-ups.

There is, in spots (nothing like Nevada though). The neat thing about the
Hawk is that you can adjust your speed to gain needed mileage. If I go 65
or less (not much fun I admit) I can go farther than my spouse-equivalent's
BMW K100RS. I have to admit when I brought the Hawk home from Sacramento, I
(reluctantly) avoided Highway 50 in Nevada because I couldn't find a small
gas can to take along. So I used Interstate 80 and averaged 85mph, which
necessitated stopping at every town, because towns on 80 are all 70 miles
apart.

--Colleen




------------------------------

From mpr10@bis.amdahl.com Wed Sep 20 10:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Party? Friday, October 13th (when else?), Skyline

Mark Kessler wrote:

>>Damn, you folks in California have all the fun.  Doc Wong and this too.
>>It almost makes me want to move out there.



Mark,

	Naw, you don't want to come to California, it sucks here.
Don't even bother to visit.  Maybe go down to the LA area sometime
just to see it  -- but forget about the Bay Area.  Nothing to do,
nothing to see. Dull, dull, dull, awful.

semi-tough,			
Marc 
eworld: Tiger900cc

"The opinions expressed do not necessarily represent those of my current,
past or any future employers (I got in trouble once...).
I speak for myself and my cat."


------------------------------

From <@gaudi.CSUFresno.EDU:tdp11@lennon.pub.csufresno.edu> Wed Sep 20 11:27 PDT 1995
Subject: WTB: CBR900RRRR shock


Well, the subject says it all-

I wasn't sure if i wanted to go this route but after all the positive
reports it sounds like the way to go ($300 cheaper doesn't hurt either!). 

Couple questions though:
Can you still use the stock side stand in spite of
the increased ride heigth? I had heard that you can and can't...what's the
truth? 
How does this mod compare to the EBC(?) shock from England?

Anybody still have one fer sale? 

Todd 
'89 Red



------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Wed Sep 20 12:12 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: WTB: CBR900RRRR shock

     The EMC shock from England fits like a stock shock does.  From what
     I've read from other posts, it seems like the CBR900 shock is longer
     than stock when it is fully extended.  The EMC is not -- you increase
     ride height via pre-load.  I should have my EMC shock in another
     week.  I'll post the results.
     
     Jeff


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: WTB: CBR900RRRR shock
Author:  Todd Dwight Prigmore  at INTERNET
Date:    9/20/95 11:51 AM


     
Well, the subject says it all-
     
I wasn't sure if i wanted to go this route but after all the positive 
reports it sounds like the way to go ($300 cheaper doesn't hurt either!). 
     
Couple questions though:
Can you still use the stock side stand in spite of
the increased ride heigth? I had heard that you can and can't...what's the 
truth? 
How does this mod compare to the EBC(?) shock from England?
     
Anybody still have one fer sale? 
     
Todd 
'89 Red
     



------------------------------

From goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us Wed Sep 20 12:55 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: WTB: CBR900RRRR shock

On Wed, 20 Sep 1995, Todd Dwight Prigmore wrote:

> Anybody still have one fer sale? 

Check out the most recent cycle news clasifieds. Someone is selling a
bunch of CBR900 parts, one of which is a stock shock for $100. Also a guy
in the same issue selling CBR600 wheels for $150 apiece-good deal for a front.
I don't have any of the contact info as I trhew the paper away when I was
done reading it today.


Matt/OH                            goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us
89 Hawk GT (street)                76025.1535@compuserve.com
89 EX 500  (racebike)




------------------------------

From CYoung3312@aol.com Wed Sep 20 14:10 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: WTB: CBR900RRRR shock

Just got an 88 Hawk...i've rode Harley most of my life (I'm 49). Did buy a
new Hurricane 600 in 87.... 

I've read, these things are torquee, mine ain't.. 
Front springs are soft ---I can take care of that...

Speedo is way off Says 55, when I'm doing 45, 80 when I'm doing 65---been
told most are just the opposite. Anything I can do?

Have slight oil leak on left cylinder bottoms. is this a common problem. ( I
belive this is the cam chain section.)

Bike has just under 10k looks showroom, is a joy to ride,but needs a little
more in the balls dept. 

Has new Radials already., I find the rear shock to be to my liking. 
I plan to change the exhaust, and a carb kit. 

Can anything be done with the stock exhaust?

I've read about drilling the airbox but am against it.
Thanx much 
Colin R. Young


------------------------------

From AKAMATSUK@aol.com Wed Sep 20 21:56 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Kosman Cast Iron Rotors


>  I'm not really sure about weight, I never compared them. I'll check it out
later and let 
>you know what I find.
>
>








                                                                        Gumby


Found out today that my good friend and fellow Hawkster called up Kosman and
ordered one yesterday for his Super Hawk.  It should arrive tomorrow.  

Maybe I'll be able to tell you how they compare weight wise.

Later,
Ken
'89 NT650


------------------------------

From vgregory@mckinley.den.mmc.com Thu Sep 21 06:58 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: WTB: CBR900RRRR shock


Colin sed:Speedo is way off Says 55, when I'm doing 45, 80 when I'm doing 65---been
told most are just the opposite. Anything I can do?
--------------

Not most Hawks - this is pretty close to spec for the Hawks, according to the
spec sheet I downloaded from the Web a couple weeks back.  Essentially, the
speedometer is 15% (or a little more) optimistic.  According to a previous
discussion on the list, this is 'cause speedos (at least coming from the
manufacturer) are required by Federal law NOT to indicate slower than the
vehicle's speed. Honda got a little carried away in making SURE they wouldn't
get in trouble.

Of course, a slightly higher profile tire would take care of it...

Enjoy your Hawk!

Val Gregory
'90 Hawk GT - "Redtailed"
DoD #1258


------------------------------

From nichol26@equity.wharton.upenn.edu Thu Sep 21 13:52 PDT 1995
Subject: Hawk GT Mailing List

Please add my address to your list.  Thanks!

Nick Amos
nichol26@wharton.upenn.edu



------------------------------

From CYoung3312@aol.com Thu Sep 21 15:29 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: WTB: CBR900RRRR shock

Thanx for the quick response about the speedo etc.

Would like some info on the oil leak at the cylinder bases (front &  rear)
leftside. i belive this is the cam chain cover. 

How about boring the cylinders/ more cubes? i notied the engine is bigger
bore than stroke. I always thought square was the way to go, but I'm from the
old Harley School.

Need some good input on an ehaust system.
got to go
Thanx again
Colin



------------------------------

From YVaTSUNAMI@aol.com Thu Sep 21 20:16 PDT 1995
Subject: unscribe

Thanks for the mail but I no longer have a hawk.  Please remove me from your
mailing list.  Thanks very much.


------------------------------

From alan@wana.pbrc.Hawaii.Edu Thu Sep 21 22:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Super/Dream Hawk for sale!!!

I just saw this over alt.moto.racing I thought everybody here would like to
know about this...   
________________________________________________________________
From: bsummers@spaceworks.com (brian summers)                              [1]
[1] FS: Race Hawk w/GSXR Front
Date: Tue Sep 19 09:24:29 HST 1995
Organization: SpaceWorks, Incorporated
Lines: 50
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I am retiring from racing and selling my Honda Hawk race bike and all other part
s.  This bike is fully set up for racing and the suspension is completely dialed
 in.    This bike has won multiple races at the expert class level and is fully
competitive in twins racing.^M
^M
The Engine:  Very, very fresh.  Less than 2 hours running time top end. New bott
om end.^M
^M
*       700 cc Weisco pistons^M
*       Mega Cycle X-2 full race grind cams^M
*       Slotted cam sprocket^M
*       Race valve springs with titanium retainers^M
*       Hand-made Stainless Kerker exhaust (like original Two Bros)^M
*       Ported and polished head^M
*       5 angle valve job^M
*       Ported, epoxy modified stock carbs^M
*       HRC carb kit^M
*       HRC black box with 10,200 rev limit ^M
*       Oversized radiator^M
*       Barnette clutch and spacer plates with racing springs^M
^M
The Chassis:^M
^M
*       Full GSX-R750 inverted fork , revalved front end (wheel, brakes, forks,
clip-ons) ^M
*       New Fox Shox with ride height adjuster^M
*       Braided steel brake lines front and rear (rear run through the swingarm)
^M
*       Steering damper^M
*       Air Tech fiberglass rear^M
*       NSR fiberglass upper ^M
*       Aluminum rear-sets^M
*       520 chain conversion^M
*       Titled frame^M
^M
Price:  $3950 includes service manual, Hawk micro fiche, full selection sprocket
s, spare gaskets and more.  ^M
^M
HAWK 750 ENGINE  (yes 750):  Brand new, still in crate.  The motor is very, very
 special.  Too much to list.  This is a national level motor.  Bolt in and win.
 $3500^M
^M
I live in the Washington DC area and I can ship the bike anywhere in the 48 US s
tates for about $250.^M
^M
^M
OTHER HAWK PARTS FOR SALE:  ^M
______________________________^M
^M
39mm Kehein racing carb kit - Includes all cables and 1/4 turn throttle.   $750^
M
Frame, titled  $395^M
TONS of other Hawk parts.^M
^M
Email me at   bsummers@spaceworks.com   ^M
or call Brian Summers at:^M
9:00 am to 6:00 pm EST  301-251-4136^M
7:30 pm to 9:30 pm EST  703-222-6655^M
^M
__________________________________________________________________________
I have no clue who this guy is, but I seem to recall a Hawk article/tidbit
in SportRider magazine a year ago the may have been the very same person.

Alan



------------------------------

From Gregbud@aol.com Thu Sep 21 23:10 PDT 1995
Subject: 900RR shock intstall

I hear some people on this list are curious about what it takes to install a
CBR900RR shock on the Hawk. I recently did it using info gleaned from here -
thanks ya'll (especially Frank)! I may be repeating, so if you already know
how just skip this. I found it to be pretty easy, My bike is stock 88 except
for progressive fork springs (15w oil), braided lines and MEZ2 rear tire
w/MEZ1 front.
To convert: Buy a used 900 shock, I found mine for sale in the 
"Double R club" part of CycleWorld -AOL. Had the '93 shock with 2000 miles on
it and looking practically new C.O.D.ed to me for the grand total of $110.
Put bike on centerstand, removed my muffler, rear wheel and Hawk Shock. I
brought both shocks to the Seattle Cycle Center and they kindly put the Hawk
spring onto the 900 shock for $10 while I waited. Make sure when the springs
are swapped that correct end is up in respect to how it will mount on the
bike (the spring diameters are tapered, more so on the 900). The most tedious
procedure took about 1/2 hour - grinding the top mount of the shock (banjo
bolt-reservoir end) to fit into the Hawk upper frame mount. Following Franks
advice I taped up the shock in the areas around the top eye so that when I
slipped I would'nt ding the shock body, very necessary. I used a standard
bench wheel grinder and it seemed to work fine. I ground the taper off on
both sides- then just a little more, using calipers to check the width
against the standard Hawk shock. I then cleaned up the grind marks with a
file and took off any sharp edges. Not done yet, I used the drill press and
enlarged the top shock bolt hole to 12mm - a 31/64 bit will also work. Presto
shock is ready to install. Pop into the bike with the reservoir end up and
the banjo bolt on the left side as seen from the rear. With the bike on the
center stand the rear tire with 900 shock installed just barely skims the
ground, but I'm still able to spin the wheel to wax the chain etc... I've
tried a couple mounting places for the remote reservoir, once underneath the
tank on the right side where a petcock would be if this was my old Triumph.
It looked pretty cool there for all to see but seemed to get pretty hot from
the rear cyl head. I wound up zip tieing it to the rear master brake cylinder
and subrame, it works but I'll probably make some sort of bracket just to
make it look cleaner. Put your wheel back on then your stock muffler with the
bike on its side stand (lean angle is slightly increased but not much)
because the swingarm now is just enough lower that the stock muffler
"colostomy bag" won't allow mounting bolts to match up by a couple of mm. Go
for a ride on your new bike!
The ride height is raised by an inch or two (I'm 6'1" 180lbs,) not a problem.
My weight seems to be a little more over the front wheel but the feeling
seems to be of more control than with the stock height. The ride is much much
smoother, amazing flying carpet kind o' feeling, I've been actually aiming
for bumps just for the joy of not feeling them jar my spine. Handling is of
course much better, the chassis doesn't get upset or bottom out by big bumps
mid-corner - just floats over them, no more muffler grinding on the ground .
It works just fine as is (preload on #4) I'm in the process of learning how
to adjust all of the shock screws so I can play around and maybe even make it
better. Now that I've rambled on if I've left out any specifics feel free to
ask.

gregbud@aol.com


------------------------------

From Gregbud@aol.com Thu Sep 21 23:19 PDT 1995
Subject: Hawk web page

Val Gregory sed:
-Not most Hawks - this is pretty close to spec for the Hawks, according to
the spec sheet I downloaded from the Web a couple weeks back. -

I've searched for a Hawk web page, would you mind sharing the address,
thanks,
gregbud@aol.com


------------------------------

From mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil Fri Sep 22 03:42 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Super/Dream Hawk for sale!!!

>I just saw this over alt.moto.racing I thought everybody here would like to
>know about this...   
>________________________________________________________________
>From: bsummers@spaceworks.com (brian summers)                              [1]

>I am retiring from racing and selling my Honda Hawk race bike and all other
part
>s.  This bike is fully set up for racing and the suspension is completely
dialed
> in.    This bike has won multiple races at the expert class level and is fully
>competitive in twins racing.^M
...
>TONS of other Hawk parts.^M
>__________________________________________________________________________
>I have no clue who this guy is, but I seem to recall a Hawk article/tidbit
>in SportRider magazine a year ago the may have been the very same person.

I called Brian up a month or so ago and picked up a new Fox shock from him.  I
don't think he has another (except on the bike) but he does have a _ton_ of TRS
for Hawks.  He lives in Centerville, VA, and although he is getting out of
racing,
he is a control rider for the Cycle Sport Track Days at Summit Point.

I have a nice jpeg (1024*662*16.7, 195k) of him on one of his older Hawks
(not the
one for sale) which has a pressurized airbox.  The filename is summers.jpg;
I got 
it off the net but I'm not sure where.  I also have couple other Hawk shots
that I
have not seen on the net, if someone would like to include them on their web
site 
and can take BinHex attachements, I'd be glad to send them out.

David Mackintosh      '82 245 Turbo  '92 Sovereign  '95 Moda  '89 Hawk GT
mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil         Germantown, MD, USA          DoD #1360



------------------------------

From mudpuppy@gibbs.oit.unc.edu Fri Sep 22 07:02 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Super/Dream Hawk for sale!!!

On Fri, 22 Sep 1995, David Mackintosh wrote:

> I called Brian up a month or so ago and picked up a new Fox shock from him.  I
> don't think he has another (except on the bike) but he does have a _ton_ of TRS
> for Hawks.  He lives in Centerville, VA, and although he is getting out of
> racing,
> he is a control rider for the Cycle Sport Track Days at Summit Point.
> 
> I have a nice jpeg (1024*662*16.7, 195k) of him on one of his older Hawks
> (not the
> one for sale) which has a pressurized airbox.  The filename is summers.jpg;

This one is at http://www.his.com/~harris/summers.jpg

It's a very nice photo indeed.

Phil Calvin                                                 HawkGT DoD#242
http://cmr.sph.unc.edu/~calvin

Follow the links there to my Hawk page if you like.


------------------------------

From goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us Fri Sep 22 07:36 PDT 1995
Subject: Speedo inaccuracy (was Re: WTB: CBR900RRRR shock)

On Wed, 20 Sep 1995 CYoung3312@aol.com wrote:

> Speedo is way off Says 55, when I'm doing 45, 80 when I'm doing 65---been
> told most are just the opposite. Anything I can do?

My Hawk's speedo is consistently very optimistic - 8-10 mph at the speeds
I've checked (stopwatch and mile markers). I've gotten used to it and it's
kept me out of trouble!


Matt/OH                            goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us
89 Hawk GT (street)                76025.1535@compuserve.com
89 EX 500  (racebike)




------------------------------

From ditullio@VNET.IBM.COM Fri Sep 22 08:02 PDT 1995
Subject: shocks

Haven't gotten around to buying a new rear shock for the hawk. I think I'll
wait and make it a winter project. But, I was also wondering if anyone has
tried the gizmos for the front shocks. I believe they're called 'cartridge
fork emulators' made by Goldtech or someone similar.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
|Mike DiTullio                 |All opinions are my own, and I have    |
|ditullio@lfs.loral.com        |thousands of them to donate...ask me.  |
|spazman@ix.netcom.com         |                                       |
|Spazman@aol.com               |  87 VW-GTI, 89 Hawk-GT, 95 ST1100     |
------------------------------------------------------------------------


------------------------------

From jbrown@longhorn.corp.sgi.com Fri Sep 22 09:00 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Hawk web page

On Sep 22,  2:28am, Gregbud@aol.com wrote:

> I've searched for a Hawk web page, would you mind sharing the address,
> thanks,
> gregbud@aol.com
>-- End of excerpt from Gregbud@aol.com

Try:

http://www-chen.tamu.edu/homepage/mel1523/hawkgt.htm

This site has not been updated recently, but has some great info.

-Jeff

'88RC31RRR

-- 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jeff Brown				TEL:(415) 390-5714
Channel Operations			FAX:(415) 390-6325 
Silicon Graphics			email:jbrown@longhorn.corp.sgi.com
					
					
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


------------------------------

From appleton@netcom.com Fri Sep 22 09:04 PDT 1995
Subject: Hawk for sale 


	Selling my 91 Hawk.24k. LA area . $1600. Slight cosmetic blemishes.
Needs instrument assembley. 
	I'm leaving town so call quick, I have a freind handling the 
transaction. I'm at 310 392 6502.
slowlycrashing in dreamtime                                             
appleton@netcom.com



------------------------------

From Phil_Calvin@unc.edu Fri Sep 22 09:44 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: shocks

Mike DiTullio articulates:

>Haven't gotten around to buying a new rear shock for the hawk. I think I'll
>wait and make it a winter project. But, I was also wondering if anyone has
>tried the gizmos for the front shocks. I believe they're called 'cartridge
>fork emulators' made by Goldtech or someone similar.

Yeah, something like that (Valvetech Gold Valve Cartridge Emulators???).

When I replaced my fork springs with Progressives, the guy who helped me
with it was suprised that I didn't install these valves instead.  He said
his FZR was basically unrideable on bumpy tracks (even with Progressives)
until he installed them.  He said that for only a little more money, I
should have put the new valves in with longer spacers, instead of the
Progressives.  Oh well.

They work to take the bite out of sharp-edged bumps.  At low fork velocity
(small bumps, and large bumps at low speed), the oil moves through small
holes just like normal, but when the fork is subjected to a fast movement
(sharp bumps and at high speed), the valve pops up (it's spring loaded) and
allows much more oil through.  Then it pops back down.

I have not tried them, but know that lot of racers use them.  They are
around $110-120 I believe.


Phil Calvin                                             DoD #242   '91 HawkGT
Environmental Science and Engineering, UNC-Chapel Hill

"No one else is taking a 34% cut [in the appropriations process].
This is not about balancing the budget;  this is about making
sure we can't do our job."
                        --Carol Browner, EPA Administrator




------------------------------

From Steve@hawk.dungeon.com Fri Sep 22 10:52 PDT 1995
Subject: Hawkaholic

Hello,
     My name is Steve and I'm a Hawkaholic.  First off I must say that I
sure am glad that I found this mailing list.  I hope that it turns out to
be a good place to find out information and share information about our fav
bike.  I just got on the mailing list a few days ago and have just been kind of
chillin' to see what's up.  Looks like there is a lot of good information.
One thing I did notice is a small bit of confusion over the Hawk variations
if you will.  I have seen things like "Honda Bros (Euro Hawk) and talking
about bigger tank and shaft drive...  Since I currently live in the U.K.
and have for the last three and a half years maybe I can shed some light on
this subject for anyone who cares.  There are really only two true
variations of the Hawk as we know it-
          The US Ver. Hawk Gt (I own a red 89)
                      and
          The Japanese ver. The Bros (It is pretty much the same as the
Hawk but comes with a better front brake, lower clip-ons, and a few other
minor things.)  This bike is only available as a grey import out of Japan.
The bike is actually fairly popular in the U.K. despite this and for some
reason they like to refer to it as a Hawk even though it says Bros on the
tank???

The bike which is a shafty and at first glance may look like a Hawk is sold
in the U.K. as a "Revere" and is really a completely different animal.
It has a bigger tank because it is a bigger bike.  It has a longer wheel
base, steel frame, handle bars not clip ons, it originally was a 600 when I
moved here but you can now get it in 650.  I could probably go on and on
about the difference - it is really a totally different motorcycle.  With
all of that said I must also say that it is also quite a popular bike here
but for different reasons.  It is another good bike built by Honda, but
isn't a Hawk.  I hope I haven't offended or insulted anyones intelligence
with this post as it was not my intention.  Before I moved here I thought
that the Revere was a Hawk with a shaft.

Hope this was of interest to someone,
     Steve
________________________________________________________________
*      Steve Beatty           \X/         __///AMIGA           *
* steve@hawk.dungeon.com      O O         \XX/ A1200           *
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~oO~( )~Oo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~





------------------------------

From gilman@mtwil1.mtwilson.edu Fri Sep 22 11:08 PDT 1995
Subject: Shocks

Mike sez:

". . .was also wondering if anyone has tried the gizmos for the front shocks.
I believe they're called 'cartridge fork emulators' made by Goldtech or
someone similar."

Yeh, they're Gold Tech emulator valves.  I installed them in my bike last
spring, and they're great.  I'm not a racer, but I live in the mountains
and like to feel confident going through the twisties.  I always said I would
give a ride report once I got them installed (some of you may remember the
'stubborn allen head bolt' problem), but never did (write the report, that is).
I put in Progressives and also Goof2 fork adjusters, so I'm really happy with
the front end at this point.  I can go a lot faster through the curves now. :-)
The valves are fairly easy to install.  You do have to drill some holes in the
damper tube, but that's about the hardest part of the job.  But if I can do it,
you can do it!

And like everyone else, I want to get a rear shock now.  The shock from 
England (was it EBF? or?) sounds good to me since it costs less than a Fox,
Ohlins, or Penske, and won't raise the ride height (important to me at 5'5")
like a CBR900R shock.  Can one of you who ordered it give me an address or
phone number so I can order one?  Thanks.

      		      			Pam

gilman@mtwil1.mtwilson.edu



------------------------------

From vgregory@mckinley.den.mmc.com Fri Sep 22 11:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re:  Hawk web page

Gregbud sed:
I've searched for a Hawk web page, would you mind sharing the address,
thanks,
gregbud@aol.com
-------------
I was afraid someone was going to ask that - I found the spec sheet in
buried in with somebody's web page that had a bunch of pictures/data
on all kinds of bikes - all makes, bunches of models, etc.  I THINK
it's on the DoD Home Page, and the address is:

http://www.cerritos.edu/dod/dod-bg-home.html

The Hawklist majordomo (Hi, Frank!) keeps a Hawk Homepage at
http://www.dsea.com/~HawkGT
and there's another one at
http://www-chen.tamu.edu/homepage/mel1523/hawkgt.htm

Don't get to do much Web cruising, but there's an amazing amount of
bike stuff out there, and an incredible number of bike-pictures.


If the DoD Home Page (actually, the address is for the Buyer's Guide)
IS where I found the spec sheet, the first thing you'll see is a listing
of makes and models.  Clicking on the Hawk GT (or is it NT650?) gets
you to a listing of pictures, including the spec sheet.

Have fun!

Val Gregory
'90 Hawk GT - "Redtailed"
DoD #1258


------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Fri Sep 22 11:39 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Shocks


     
>And like everyone else, I want to get a rear shock now.  The shock from 
>England (was it EBF? or?) sounds good to me since it costs less than a Fox, 
>Ohlins, or Penske, and won't raise the ride height (important to me at 5'5") 
>like a CBR900R shock.  Can one of you who ordered it give me an address or 
>phone number so I can order one?  Thanks.
     
                 >Pam
     
Hi Pam,

You can reach EMC at 011-44-1234-344001 (I included the long distance access
and country codes in the number).  I ordered my shock from Mike.  He was very
helpful.  I'm expecting to get mine this coming week give or take 2-3 days.
Just specify the Honda Hawk GT/Bros 650 shock.  They have 3 types of
shocks:

Quadrant:  Basic street model, compression/rebound adjustment built into
           one knob, pre-load can be set. Cost: 198 British pounds.

Sport:  Same configuration as the Quadrant, but up-rated damping performance.
        Cost: 275 pounds.

Race:  Compression/rebound adjustments are independantly adjustable.  
       Competition valving (don't know what that means -- it's in their ad).
       Cost: 350 pounds.

Mike indicated to me that the Sport and the Race are the same shock except
for the separate compression/rebound adjustments.  He said that unless I
was specifically going racing, that the Sport would be the better choice
because they have found that, when they compare a Race model to a Sport
model once the suspension has been sorted, the internal adjustments are
about the same anyway.  Their advertised cost includes tax/shipping.
British tax (VAT) is 18%.  Mike indicated that he would not charge the
VAT being that the shock was going out of the country.  My cost for the
Sport shock will be 234 (I think that was the number) pounds plus shipping.
That works out to approximately $400.  Their shocks come highly recommended
from everything I read in the British motorcycle press.

Jeff
     



------------------------------

From SSwee28765@aol.com Fri Sep 22 13:07 PDT 1995
Subject: stop writing me!!!!

Please get me off this damn mailing list I hate all these people calling me
    STOP NOW


------------------------------

From lacey@dsea.com Fri Sep 22 13:12 PDT 1995
Subject: stop writing me!!!!

DONE!

>Received: from chalice.firewall.dsea.com ([204.30.91.34]) by
>server.eng.dsea.com (8.6.9/8.6.9) with ESMTP id NAA04318 for
>; Fri, 22 Sep 1995 13:07:33 -0700
>Received: from emout04.mail.aol.com (emout04.mail.aol.com [198.81.10.12])
>by chalice.firewall.dsea.com (8.6.9/8.6.9) with ESMTP id NAA22646 for
>; Fri, 22 Sep 1995 13:13:51 -0700
>Received: by emout04.mail.aol.com (8.6.12/8.6.12) id QAA09576 for
>hawkgt@dsea.com.; Fri, 22 Sep 1995 16:12:07 -0400
>From: SSwee28765@aol.com
>Date: Fri, 22 Sep 1995 16:12:07 -0400
>Message-ID: <950922161206_106184512@emout04.mail.aol.com>
>To: hawkgt@dsea.com
>cc: SSwee28765@aol.com
>Subject: stop writing me!!!!
>Content-Type: text
>Content-Length: 89
>
>Please get me off this damn mailing list I hate all these people calling me
>    STOP NOW
>
>

*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************




------------------------------

From jpl10@mfg.amdahl.com Fri Sep 22 13:22 PDT 1995
Subject: hit and run

Here's a funny one:


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Sep 95 13:54:56 CDT
From: 
Subject: Re: Hit and Run

|>         Krimsky said the suspect's car shows signs of the accident.  The 
|> car has extensive damage to its right side, the right portion of the 
|> windshield and the passenger side windows were broken out.
|
|Jesus Christ, This guy must've really been hauling ass to do that kind of 
|damage from hitting a soft little human.  Either that or the guy who 
|claims he was hit actually jumped off a really tall building and hit a 
|passing RX-7.

It happened while I was in college.  A friend of mine got a call from the
university police asking him if he owned a motorcycle with a particular
licence plate number.  He said yes, and the police then told him that a
suicide had jumped off the roof of the off-campus dorm where he lived and
landed on his bike.  He had to go down and ID the bike, and there was all
this blood and clothing stuck to it.  Ick!

The bike was totalled, and the insurance claims guy came out and said 
"I thought I'd seen everything..."

Sad but true...

Scott Shaffer - Systems Management
internet: scotts@bangate.compaq.com
http://www.internetnow.com/~scotts

------------------------------


------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Fri Sep 22 17:03 PDT 1995
Subject: Duck list

Hey . . . I know this is off the topic, but does anyone have the 
address(es) for the Ducati mailing list(s)?  I have some parts I gotta 
get rid of . . .

Thanx in advance, 
DC



------------------------------

From Steve@hawk.dungeon.com Sat Sep 23 08:57 PDT 1995
Subject: Cal Emission Sys

     Has anyone out there removed the Secondary Air Supply and
Evaporative Control Systems from their Hawk?  I am considering doing just
that and would welcome any help/input.  Don't worry my bike is not in
California any more, it's not even in the States and when I return it will
most likely only be used on the track.  If you removed it was there any
noticeable performance increase?  I ask this because I am having some
strange carburation problems that I think may be linked to these systems.
Also could you please tell me what I should remove, cap, or open and if you
encountered any problems.

Thanks in advance,
     Steve




------------------------------

From TheBeezers@aol.com Sat Sep 23 09:23 PDT 1995
Subject: Mailing List

Please put me on the Hawk GT mailing list or send HELP instructions.


------------------------------

From spatel@mcp.com Sat Sep 23 09:57 PDT 1995
Subject: NTV 650 - Revere (EuroHawk)

     
     Folks,
     
     I just returned from a wonderful vacation in London, U.K..  The best 
     city in the whole world... in my opinion.
     
     Our bike is a favorite of the couriers in the city, they were 
     everywhere.  It is kinda neat to see all kinds of bikes on city 
     streets, pretty unusual for a guy from Indiana.  Ofcourse, it is the 
     ugly version of our bike... bigger tank, shaft drive, bigger seat 
     etc..  The most exciting thing about it is that you can buy this brand 
     new, and the best part of it is they sell these for 4,600 pounds which 
     equals to about $6900.  For all of those out there who think paying 
     $3600 for a used bike is steep, think again, it is still a bargain.  I 
     feel damn good, that I paid $2500 for mine, it is a super good value.
     
     Better get back to the daily grind.
     
     Duke
     '89 Red


------------------------------

From cavenewt@wyoming.com Sat Sep 23 11:28 PDT 1995
Subject: Frank's web page?

Somebody posted this url for Frank's web page:

//www.dsea.com/~HawkGT

I get an error when trying to go there. Any corrections?

--Colleen




------------------------------

From Rutsch@aol.com Sun Sep 24 10:16 PDT 1995
Subject: hawk group

I am looking to buy and personalize a Hawk. Where can I find this "hawk
group"? 
Your help would be much appreciated.
Max Rutsch
FZR400 (for sale)
XL600R (for sale)


------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Mon Sep 25 10:09 PDT 1995
Subject: Dual Disk Report

Well, I finally (last Wednesday) completed the "two left hawk forks" dual
disk brake conversion on my bike.  I'd like to thank JimDuc916 for giving
me the idea, and then convincing me that it was possible.  Thanks, Jim!

Parts Summary
-------------

CBR F2 front wheel & tire (already installed, $300 total)
Hawk left fork leg, w/ caliper (used, $100, thanks Jeff!)
New Hawk brake disk (a la Honda, $300, ouch!)
CBR steel/teflon brake lines ($75 set (front/rear), can't remember vendor)
1 pint Dot 5 brake fluid ($5, Bel Ray, neat purple color)
F2 dial-a-pre-load fork end caps (free, but still haven't picked up yet

Total cost:  $800 (yikes!)

Installation Summary
--------------------

Methods:
1 -- Slung front end from ceiling.
2 -- Removed front wheel, fork brace & fender.
3 -- Removed right clip on, loosened triple-tree (right side), and removed fork.
4 -- Removed fork end cap, spacer & Progressive spring.  Drained.
5 -- Removed modified guts of fork.
6 -- Removed stock guts from new (left) fork.  Replaced with modified guts from
     old right fork.
7 -- Installed new fork & filled with 15 weight fork oil.  Replaced spring,
     spacer & end cap.  Drained and filled left leg, for good measure.
8 -- Installed new brake disk on CBR wheel.
9 -- Ground off speedo hub pin on inside of fork leg (so disks would fit
between
     fork legs).
10 - Reinstalled fender & fork brace.
11 - Attempted to install wheel, and realized that I couldn't get the disks
into
     the calipers.
12 - Removed new caliper, installed wheel.  Realized that I needed a
"sleeve" to
     get the axle to fit properly in the new fork.  Fortunately, I found one
     that was very close, and just needed shortening to fit nicely.
13 - Removed 1 brake pad, and installed new caliper.  Slipped brake pad in.
14 - Installed new brake lines.  The right one (for the "backwards" caliper) is
     about 2 to 3 inches too long, so it is routed kinda funny to take up slack.
15 - Reinstall clip on, fill master cylinder, bleed lines.  Definitely the
     slowest part of the process (no bleeder tool).
16 - Unslung bike, ride up to Skyline, do a BIG stoppie!  Yahoo!

Times:  TOTAL time was a little under 4.5 hours (less than expected).  This
includes the gut exchange, which you won't have to do if your suspension is
stock, as well as "learning" a lot about how to get the damned wheel back
on with the new configuration.  All in all, quite smooth.

How does it look?  Bizarre.  Beefy.  The teflon shielded stainless lines
are FAT (like 1/2"), and they are routed strangely, and the caliper's in
front of the fork so it's odd, but it looks NEATO.  FrankenHawk lives!
Mwa-hahhahhahhah!

How does it work?  WONDERFULLY.  Like a front braking system should.  No
sign of excess front-end drop, or wear on the mounting points (yet).
Stoppies, stoppies, stoppies.

Cost talk:  Well, in the end it cost a LOT ($800).  At that price, one
should be able to find a CBR front end.  Jeff...what was the total (w/ new
tire and lines and stuff) for the CBR conversion?

If you'd like to see this system, feel free to come to the party at mi casa
on October 13.  Or you can wait, and I'll get 'em onto my web site.  Oh
yeah...I will have my QuickTake 100 digital camera at the party, so if you
bring your bike I will take some pictures of it for you, if you like.
Jpeg, PICT, etc, and we can mail 'em to ya if you can take attachments with
your email.

Cheers!

Hugh




------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Mon Sep 25 10:23 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Dual Disk Report

     
     
>Cost talk:  Well, in the end it cost a LOT ($800).  At that price, one 
>should be able to find a CBR front end.  Jeff...what was the total (w/ new 
>tire and lines and stuff) for the CBR conversion?

My F2 front end cost me about $1100 but I also did some things that added
to the cost:  Braking Brake Systems Semi-Floating rotors, Galfer pads,
powder coat the wheel, Progressive F2 springs, Race-Tech emulators.  
Without the extra stuff, the cost would have been about $800 total.

I can't wait to see the Franken-Hawk.  I've officially dubbed mine
"Marisa" after Marisa Tomei...ahh, she melts my heart, that one.

Jeff
     
     
     



------------------------------

From jamesm@calweb.com Mon Sep 25 10:58 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Dual Disk Report

On Mon, 25 Sep 1995, Jeff Leveroni wrote:

> >Cost talk:  Well, in the end it cost a LOT ($800).  At that price, one 
>
> My F2 front end cost me about $1100 but I also did some things that added

For those on the list put off by such steep figures, I purchased a used
'92 front end with wheel, brakes, and clipons for $480 (w/shipping).
The only thing I need to add are a new front tire ($80 mail order) and
a front fender (roughly $60 from a breaker).  So, the swap can be made
for around $600, if you shop around.  However, the Race-Tech emulators
($125) are worth the price if you use a '91-'93 front end.


------ 
james montebello - jamesm@calweb.com

CORPORATION - n. An ingenious device for obtaining individual profit without
individual responsibility.  - Ambrose Bierce, _The Devil's Dictionary_


------------------------------

From feldm004@maroon.tc.umn.edu Mon Sep 25 17:25 PDT 1995
Subject: Mirrors

Any suggestions for mirrors other than stock to be used with clip-ons would be 
appreciated.  I'm using CBR 1000 clip-ons which have internal weights that make 
installing bar-end mirrors difficult, although I'd like to try it if someone out
there has experience.    Thanks 






------------------------------

From tbrking@netvoyage.net Mon Sep 25 19:37 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Cal Emission Sys

RE: the HAWK smog stuff.

Pitch it all Steve, no harm will come from its removal. The strange
carburetion you're experiencing is unrelated and will probably go away if
you install a Factory Conf.10 jet kit... even if you have the stock exhaust
system installed. Trust me. 


   Craig




------------------------------

From DFJL@aol.com Mon Sep 25 22:07 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Mirrors

I've got Napoleon AG 'Naked Mirrors' in 'chrome' (really just unfinished
stainless) and they're widely adjustable, and have a wide field of view due
to a very slight convex curve.
Never any blur, p-l-e-n-t-y of adjustment so you're not looking at your
shoulders.

They're not really cheap, though, about $28 each.

Dave



------------------------------

From mudpuppy@gibbs.oit.unc.edu Tue Sep 26 07:09 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Cal Emission Sys

On Mon, 25 Sep 1995, Craig Erion wrote:

> Pitch it all Steve, no harm will come from its removal. 

What's the best and/or easiest method to seal up the air intake pipes 
that go from the exhaust flange area to the device on the left side of 
the cylinders?  I currently have some large bolts stuck in the flexible 
tubing, but it looks lousy.  

Phil Calvin                                                 HawkGT DoD#242



------------------------------

From goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us Tue Sep 26 07:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Drive line lash

On the subject of chains, will a worn chain increase drive-line lash? How
many miles have list members gotten out of their OEM chains? My Hawk has
has had a fair amount of lash since the beginning and it is now getting
very annoying. I have about 15K miles on the original chain. Is this
common with Hawks?

Matt/OH                            goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us
89 Hawk GT (street)                76025.1535@compuserve.com
89 EX 500  (racebike)








------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Tue Sep 26 08:03 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Drive line lash

     Just in case the obvious has been missed... an out of adjustment
     chain will affect lash.
     
     Jeff


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Drive line lash
Author:  Matt Goodman  at INTERNET
Date:    9/26/95 8:08 AM


On the subject of chains, will a worn chain increase drive-line lash? How 
many miles have list members gotten out of their OEM chains? My Hawk has 
has had a fair amount of lash since the beginning and it is now getting 
very annoying. I have about 15K miles on the original chain. Is this 
common with Hawks?
     
Matt/OH                            goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us 
89 Hawk GT (street)                76025.1535@compuserve.com
89 EX 500  (racebike)
     
     
     
     
     
     



------------------------------

From goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us Tue Sep 26 08:07 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Drive line lash

as an addendum to my original post, the chain is in adjustment :^)

Matt/OH                            goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us
89 Hawk GT (street)                76025.1535@compuserve.com
89 EX 500  (racebike)




------------------------------

From gilman@mtwil1.mtwilson.edu Tue Sep 26 08:47 PDT 1995
Subject: Watanabe gas tank

Hiya Hawksters,

Just for those of you who don't get the HawkWorks newsletter, thought I'd 
pass along some info on the Kiyo Watanabe carbon fiber gas tank (the article
is on p. 3).  The facts:  weighs 3 pounds, holds 5 gallons of gas, costs
(gulp) $675.  It uses the stock mounting points, airbox, and gas filler cap.
Kiyo can be reached at (818) 841-0930.  There's a good black and white picture
of it in the newsletter.  It looks pretty much the same as stock only bigger
naturally.  Sorry if this information is repetitive.  It was the first detailed
bit of information I've read about the tank, so I wanted to pass it along. 
Still like to see an alternative that was priced a little lower, though. :-)
Frank??

      		  Pam

gilman@mtwil1.mtwilson.edu	



------------------------------

From rzimdars@camtronics.com Tue Sep 26 10:08 PDT 1995
Subject: addition to listserv


     
     Hi, Frank. I'm a HawkGT owner who would like to jump into the forum. I 
     can be E-mailed at rzimdars@camtronics.com here in Hartland Wisconsin 
     (just outside of Milwaukee). 
     
     I'm very new to the internet, so I hope this message gets through. If 
     you need more info please contact me.
     
     Robb Zimdars


------------------------------

From doneill@pioneer.uspto.gov Tue Sep 26 11:13 PDT 1995
Subject: Please add me to the mailing list.  Thanks.

Please add me to the mailing list, or send me instruction on how I can 
add myself.

David O'Neill


------------------------------

From greaney@ee.unr.edu Tue Sep 26 12:17 PDT 1995
Subject: Rear end stand (again)


Hey everyone:

I'm 'bout to pick me up one of dem fancy 900RR shocks... and I intend
on losing the centerstand in the process.  Sooooooo, I'm gonna need 
a rear-end stand to keep he bike in place whilest doing the important
things like wash^H^H^H^H rear wheel removal, chain adjustments and 
installs (when I do the 520 conversion, which I STILL need to order),
etc.  

Someone here posted a note a while back about a read wheel stand only
costing something like $60 or so.  Who was that, where did he/she buy
it from, how much was it, who do I call, etc.  I can't seem to locate
it anywhere in my archives.


Thanx,

Mike

PS - tell me all you know about the 900RR shock.  JimD is selling me one
of his (THANKS JIM, THE CHECK IS IN THE MAIL TODAY, I PROMISE!), and I'd
like to know what type of ride height and chain slider problems I'm
gonna run into.  

--
Mike Nielsen       e: greaney@unr.edu       v: 702.784.4752


------------------------------

From goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us Tue Sep 26 12:33 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Pipes

On Sun, 17 Sep 1995, Phil Calvin wrote:

> I bought a used TBR (great price/performance there) and after thinking 
> about the jetting for a long while, put in a Dynojet Stage 7 kit.  I run 

I've never heard of a stage 7 kit. What is it?


Matt/OH                            goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us
89 Hawk GT (street)                76025.1535@compuserve.com
89 EX 500  (racebike)




------------------------------

From mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil Tue Sep 26 12:39 PDT 1995
Subject: Ugly brown spooge on my cylinders!

My Hawk has 32k miles on it and I try and keep it nice and clean.
I get dark, oily spooge running down the the outside of the cylinders
that makes a real mess every few hundred miles (I ride at least 300
miles/week).  It appears to be crankcase blow-by that is going through
the carbs and leaking out of the carb boots, which are tight.  Any
other possible source of this problem?  Are there any better ways of
either sealing the boots or trapping the oil so it doesn't make such
a mess?  Am I the only one to have this problem?  Are my rings com-
pletely shot (good excuse for big-bore kit :^)?

David Mackintosh      '82 245 Turbo  '92 Sovereign  '95 Moda  '89 Hawk GT
mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil         Germantown, MD, USA          DoD #1360



------------------------------

From Phil_Calvin@unc.edu Tue Sep 26 13:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Pipes

Matt Goodman wrote:
>On Sun, 17 Sep 1995, Phil Calvin wrote:
>
>> I bought a used TBR (great price/performance there) and after thinking
>> about the jetting for a long while, put in a Dynojet Stage 7 kit.  I run
>
>I've never heard of a stage 7 kit. What is it?

To be honest, I had never heard of it either.  I asked my girlfriend to
pick up the jetkit (I asked for a Stage 3 kit) at the local place, and she
came home with it.  I was ticked off, called the guys back, and they swore
it was what I wanted.  They offerred to replace it if it didn't work.

I called Dynojet and asked them what was up.  Some guy (Irish or English
accent) spoke to me at length about the kits, and it boiled down to the
Stage 1-3 kits being somewhat better for cruising at a constant RPM level,
while the Stage 7 kit supposedly responds better to full throttle
operation.  He repeated several times that it was for "competition use".  I
am planning on racing next spring, so I went for it.

I believe the only difference between it and the Stage 1-3 kit is the size
of the drill bit used to drill out the holes in the slider.  Don't hold me
to that though.

It works great.  I installed it according to the directions.  It has new
jets, new needles with clips, needle jet shrouds (with superglue to put
them on), and a drill bit.  The directions sucked.  I eventually figured
out what they were _trying_ to say though.  With the stock airbox, the
smallest main jets work best.  This spring, I'll go with UNI pod filters,
and move up the main jet size.

I have not flat spots anywhere.  Runs really well.  I think it's a tad rich
down low, but 3k miles so far without fouling plugs, so I'm not worried.

Does that help?

Cheers,
Phil

Phil Calvin                                             DoD #242   '91 HawkGT
http://cmr.sph.unc.edu/~calvin/ 




------------------------------

From Phil_Calvin@unc.edu Tue Sep 26 13:26 PDT 1995
Subject: The HawkWorks Newsletter


I just got the new HawkWorks newsletter yesterday.  I was much more
impressed with this issue than the past couple.  It had a nice photo of the
new left-exit TBR pipe system (anyone wanna buy my right-exit system?), a
bit on the 5-gallon tank,  a nice "reader's write" section with some
helpful hints, a picture of a super cheap sidestand that should be easy to
fabricate myself, and lots of other good information.  Very nice.  Also a
picture of about 20 Hawks in a row at the CA get-together.  Mustabeen fun.

Perhaps the editor's recent moving hassles have finally ended, and the
"business" of newsletter writing is back in full swing, but whatever the
reasons, I'm glad the quality&content is picking up.

If you're not receiving this, I think it's worth the $20/yr, especially
since you get a T-shirt.  Wish the T-shirt were all-cotton though.  Oh
well, can't have everything.

Phil Calvin                                             DoD #242   '91 HawkGT
http://cmr.sph.unc.edu/~calvin/ 




------------------------------

From greaney@ee.unr.edu Tue Sep 26 13:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Ugly brown spooge on my cylinders!

> 
> My Hawk has 32k miles on it and I try and keep it nice and clean.
> I get dark, oily spooge running down the the outside of the cylinders
> that makes a real mess every few hundred miles (I ride at least 300
> miles/week).  It appears to be crankcase blow-by that is going through
> the carbs and leaking out of the carb boots, which are tight.  Any
> other possible source of this problem?  Are there any better ways of
> either sealing the boots or trapping the oil so it doesn't make such
> a mess?  Am I the only one to have this problem?  Are my rings com-
> pletely shot (good excuse for big-bore kit :^)?

I'm getting some bits of spooge, too.  I really don't think it is 
the rings, since I'm not getting any appreciable smoke out the ass
end of things.  I'd be inclined to believe that you may have overfilled
the crankcase (which I did... ooops), or it's simply excess from the
cc breather hose, oozing out of the airbox in spots.  I intend on
ripping mine apart soon to figure out what it is, but then again,
it's getting a thorough going-thru anyway, so it's not much extra
work.

Mike

PS - still pondering turning my Hawk into a racer.  Unfortunately,
i've got a line on several cheap RZ350s, already prepped for racing.
Decisions, decisions...........


------------------------------

From wroof@ns1.netside.com Tue Sep 26 14:22 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Pipes / Drilling out Sliders

>I believe the only difference between it and the Stage 1-3 kit is the size
>of the drill bit used to drill out the holes in the slider.  Don't hold me
>to that though.

        For us tightwads screwing around with the jets without buying jet
kits, how big were the holes in the slider? How about those of you with less
extreme jet kits?

        My latest carburetion iteration (in response to black plugs) is
stock mains, shim the stock needles .060, breathe through foam filters
wrapped around the rubber "velocity stacks" yanked out of the airbox. Seems
to have good top end and midrange equal to running with the airbox,
accompanied by carb drake giving fine counterpoint to the Kerker's bark. :)
Gee officer, maybe it was the Civic with the subwoofers...

        Kudos to whoever started the thread about the velocity stacks (sorry
I don't recall who).

Dave Roof                "Life imitates art -- but badly."  Edward Abbey

wroof@mail.netside.com  w.roof@genie.geis.com [Yane]  '85 BMW K100RT [Waltraude]
West Columbia SC  BMWMOA 68743  HRCA  Conebutt        '88 Honda Hawk [Jason]
IBMWR Principal Euphonium



------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Tue Sep 26 14:26 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Rear end stand (again)

I have the info on that stand, Mike . . . gimme a day to get home and 
look it up for ya.  I'll blow it out to the list when I do.

C ya
DC



------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Tue Sep 26 14:29 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Pipes

> It works great.  I installed it according to the directions.  It has new
> jets, new needles with clips, needle jet shrouds (with superglue to put
> them on), and a drill bit.

Ummm . . . what is a needle jet shroud?  The DJ kit seems to include an 
awful lot of stuff that the Factory doesn't, and my DJ kit, when I bought 
it a year or so ago, definitely didn't have all that junk in it . . .

>  The directions sucked.

I second that emotion.

C y'all,
DC



------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Tue Sep 26 14:34 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Ugly brown spooge on my cylinders!

> PS - still pondering turning my Hawk into a racer.  Unfortunately,
> i've got a line on several cheap RZ350s, already prepped for racing.
> Decisions, decisions...........

RACE THE HAWK, MIKE!! RACE THE HAWK!!!

Problem is, an RZ350 "prepped for racing" is roughly as fast and reliable 
as a Hawk with the turnsignals removed.  My Hawk with nothing more than 
Supertrapp and Factory kit (bone-stock motor) sucks up RZ's like they're 
parked.  The 2-stroker will have a tiny advantage on peak power exiting 
turns, but I fell that's balanced by the fact that said power flexes the 
frame nicely.

With that said- if the RZ is really cheap, go ahead and beat the crap out 
of that for a while.  They're still fun.  It's just that if you already 
HAVE the Hawk . . .

C ya
DC



------------------------------

From greaney@ee.unr.edu Tue Sep 26 14:51 PDT 1995
Subject: Renting a bike . . .


. . . in New Zealand!!!!


Does anyone have any info on this?  My recent issue of American Motorcyclist
(AMA magazine, pretty lame, but has occasional useful info) has a story
on it, but no numbers to call nor prices of bikes.

I'll be leaving SF sometime December 20th or so, then returning sometime
January 5th or so, and would REALLY like to tour the country on a bike.
I know I'm insane, but hey, it's the last vacation I'll be able to take
before I retire (I DON'T consider work travel to Europe a vacation!),
so I want to make it worthwhile.

Thanks for any info....

Mike


------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Tue Sep 26 14:57 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Pipes / Drilling out Sliders

For anyone who might be interested . . .

I have a DJ kit, or the better part of one.  Here's the scoop.

Needle have been cut (on the top, where the clip goes) to fit into the 
needle holders, per instructions from Dynojet.  Therefore, the cannot go 
LEANER than the third position.  What this means to you is that they'll 
work with Uni's or open stacks, and probably with this stock boot/Uni 
hybrid we've been discussing, but not with a stock box.

No drill bit was included with the kit.  I also have a fistful of main 
jets ranging from #142 to #155 (yes, I've been doing a lot of screwing 
around with these carbs- right, Brian?)

If anyone might be interested, make me an offer.  As of now, it's just 
kinda laying in the toolbox, so something is better than nothing- know 
whut I mean?

C y'all,
DC



------------------------------

From jamesm@calweb.com Tue Sep 26 15:09 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Pipes

On Tue, 26 Sep 1995, Dennis Daniel Crowley wrote:

> > It works great.  I installed it according to the directions.  It has new
> > jets, new needles with clips, needle jet shrouds (with superglue to put
> > them on), and a drill bit.
> 
> Ummm . . . what is a needle jet shroud?  The DJ kit seems to include an 
> awful lot of stuff that the Factory doesn't, and my DJ kit, when I bought 
> it a year or so ago, definitely didn't have all that junk in it . . .

The shroud is a small airdam  2-3mm high just upstream of the hole the
needle goes into. This is usually semi-circular, and wraps around the
upstream half of the hole.  These began appearing on Del'Orto slide
carbs at least 15 years ago, and they're now making inroads into the CV
carb arena.

My guess is that they're meant to locally increase the pressure drop
just over the hole, perhaps improving marginally response at low rpm.
I suppose they could also slightly reduce air turbulence around the
needle at higher revs.


------
james montebello - jamesm@calweb.com

CORPORATION - n. An ingenious device for obtaining individual profit without
individual responsibility.  - Ambrose Bierce, _The Devil's Dictionary_


------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Tue Sep 26 15:12 PDT 1995
Subject: Yet another parts bike . . .

Well, folks, as promised, I'm heading to sunny Florida to pick up another 
crashed Hawk.  However, I learned my lesson the last time I sold parts 
off a bike I hadn't seen in a while, so I don't want to make any promises 
to anyone this time.

If anyone has any particular requests, drop me a line and I"ll let you 
know by October 13th what the scoop is.  PLEASE, gang- I love ya and all, 
but no more brake lever/footpeg rubber/axle nut requests, OK?  I'm happy 
to help any Hawkster, but there is a limit . . .

Stuff I know to be conspicuously ABSENT from the upcoming carcass include:
-radiator
-clutch cover
-headlight
-front forks (tweaked, not missing . . .)

This bike has been CRASHED.  Therefore, the bodywork, although present, 
is not pristine.  Ditto on the tank.  

My info on the bike is that it rear-ended a car at low speed and fell 
over on the right side.  My guess is that the small but pricey stuff like 
turn signals and footpegs aren't pristine either.

That's all I know at this time, gang.  Pick away!

C y'all
DC

P.S.- I promised someone a rear tire off the last parts bike, which never 
happened due to hopless confusion between me, UPS, and my mom.  If that 
person is still around, gimme a shout and I'll save this tire for you, 
assuming it's not bald.  If anyone else is still riding a promise from 
the last carcass, email me and I"ll do my best to back up my previous 
screw-ups.  I"m not in school this semester, and I rented a garage as 
well, so there's a little more time to actually inspect and remove parts
for people without depending on my sister's descriptions of parts she's 
looking at in an unlit carport with a rusty flashlight.

DC



------------------------------

From cscops2@cscops2.Ebay.Sun.COM Tue Sep 26 15:25 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Cal Emission Sys


> From mudpuppy@gibbs.oit.unc.edu  Tue Sep 26 07:36:38 1995
> Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 10:17:17 -0400
> From: Phil Calvin 
> To: Craig Erion 
> Cc: Steve Beatty , hawkgt@dsea.com
> Subject: Re: Cal Emission Sys
> Mime-Version: 1.0
> Content-Type> : > TEXT> /> PLAIN> ; charset="US-ASCII"> 
> Content-Length: 423
> 
> On Mon, 25 Sep 1995, Craig Erion wrote:
> 
> > Pitch it all Steve, no harm will come from its removal. 
> 
> What's the best and/or easiest method to seal up the air intake pipes 
> that go from the exhaust flange area to the device on the left side of 
> the cylinders?  I currently have some large bolts stuck in the flexible 
> tubing, but it looks lousy.  
> 
> Phil Calvin                                                 HawkGT DoD#242
> 

Initially what I did was put vacuum caps over the chrome pipes. I didn't
really like the looks of that though, so I had a local welder seal them 
off for me. The pain was in removing the front one. had to pull the front 
engine mounts and raise the engine a tad just to get a wrench in there. 
The vacuum caps work fine though as the pipes never heated up at all. 



------------------------------

From Kenneth.Lawas@analog.com Tue Sep 26 15:55 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Rear end stand (again)


> 
> Thanx,
> 
> Mike
> 
> PS - tell me all you know about the 900RR shock.  JimD is selling me one
> of his (THANKS JIM, THE CHECK IS IN THE MAIL TODAY, I PROMISE!), and I'd
> like to know what type of ride height and chain slider problems I'm
> gonna run into.  


  1.  It sounds like it uses the Hawk spring.  Since I can't get the
      proper sag with the stock spring and the Hawk shock (the spring's
      too stiff), I don't see how I could get any more sag by adding
      the 900RR shock.  I weight 150lbs.  Anyone else find that they
      have to crank the preload down to nothing to get the suspension
      a little compressed?  The Fox comes with a lower spring constant.

  2.  It raises the ride height of the bike.  More weight tipped onto
      the puny Hawk front wheel is something else I don't need.

    -Ken


------------------------------

From CYoung3312@aol.com Tue Sep 26 16:04 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .

I've decieded or Kerkers for the exhaust system (or maaaybe Traps?)
i want to keep the side and center stands where they are.

I'm confused about the different opinions on carb jetting and airboxs.
I'd like to get maybe 55hp out of this machine, keeping it dependable.
at least together as an every day ride. 

I decieded on just the Progressives in the front end. So far I like the rear
schock!!! Am I the only one.??

How are these big bore kits for the street?

It's been a learning experience  joining this ( what the hell is it) msg.
board(?)
Colin


------------------------------

From worlemar@cais.com Tue Sep 26 16:17 PDT 1995
Subject: Friend wants info on Hawk Mods

Michael, a friend of mine, has a 1988 Hawk GT and would like advice on mods,
primarily directed at prepping the Hawk for club racing.  He intends to keep
the engine relatively stock, but would like your advice/experience
(including specific vendors/part numbers) on brake, suspension, pipe,
jetting, etc., mods.

Please E-mail him directly at parrms@csoc.dnet.dupont.com with any
suggstions.  Thanks for your help.

Lowell



------------------------------

From Phil_Calvin@unc.edu Tue Sep 26 16:43 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Pipes

>> It works great.  I installed it according to the directions.  It has new
>> jets, new needles with clips, needle jet shrouds (with superglue to put
>> them on), and a drill bit.
>
>Ummm . . . what is a needle jet shroud?  The DJ kit seems to include an
>awful lot of stuff that the Factory doesn't, and my DJ kit, when I bought
>it a year or so ago, definitely didn't have all that junk in it . . .

The shroud is a little thingee that you glue over the needle jet hole.  It
looks like this:


                                           X
                                           X
                                           X
                                           X  NEEDLE
                                           X
                                           X
                                           X
                                           X
                                           |

                                           ------
                                           |     |
                                        #  |     |
                 AIRFLOW                   |     |
 BANG!        <<<------------        |------     |
                                     |           |  SHROUD
                                     |           |
                                     |           |
                                     |-----------|
                                     |-----------|
                                     |           |   ORIGINAL NEEDLE JET
                                          GAS


A sort of Venturi effect increases the negative pressure at the point
marked by the #, pulling more gas out through the jet.

They are made of brass, and you superglue (yeah, I was a little hesitant)
them onto the old needle jets.  You only have one shot at it, and you don't
want to mess up.  It's a tight fit too.


Phil Calvin                                             DoD #242   '91 HawkGT
http://cmr.sph.unc.edu/~calvin/ 




------------------------------

From Phil_Calvin@unc.edu Tue Sep 26 16:43 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Pipes / Drilling out Sliders

>>I believe the only difference between it and the Stage 1-3 kit is the size
>>of the drill bit used to drill out the holes in the slider.  Don't hold me
>>to that though.
>
>        For us tightwads screwing around with the jets without buying jet
>kits, how big were the holes in the slider? How about those of you with less
>extreme jet kits?

I'm in the process of moving, and that stuff is packed away, but get back
with me in a couple weeks and I'll tell ya.  It was only marginally bigger
than the stock holes.

I'm no combustion engineer, but I would hesitate to just start drilling
holes based on what Dynojet does.  Seems like drilling holes would either
reduce or increase (my guess is decrease) the amount that the slide raises
up, holding the engine speed constant.  Now, this would decrease (using my
guess) the flow out of the needle jet since the needle is stuck in there
further.  BUT, with my kit, you've put on needle jet shrouds which are
designed to increase the vaccuum on the jet, increasing the flow...  Are
you still with me?  So, bottom line is that it's complicated, and I am glad
I'm not doing it all by myself.


Phil Calvin                                             DoD #242   '91 HawkGT
http://cmr.sph.unc.edu/~calvin/ 




------------------------------

From alan@wana.pbrc.Hawaii.Edu Tue Sep 26 17:10 PDT 1995
Subject: Tank bag suggestions

I need a tankbag for my Hawk.  Anybody have any suggestions?  What I most
need it for is to keep my backpack from getting too heavy with textbooks,
binders and other  student-related junk.  I'd rather not use a tailpack
because I often carry a pasenger.  I'm looking for something that will
allow me to keep the tank-bra I already have on there, something secure yet
easily detachable, and  something affordable.  So, anything come to mind?  
I probally couldn't use a gigantic bag either because my clip-ons are
mounted below the triple clamp and the thought of me "hugging" the tankbag
would be too ridiculous.  

Thanks
Alan



------------------------------

From briggsw@microsoft.com Tue Sep 26 17:16 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: Rear end stand (again)


Shannon Racing
337 'C' St.
San Rafeal, Ca. 94901
(415) 721-7585

A Hawk Stand is $59.  Its basically some welded together iron tubing.   
 I've been using one all season, and while it is not nearly as nice as a   
TBR or similar stand, it holds the bike up just fine.

 ----------
From:  Mike Nielsen[SMTP:greaney@ee.unr.edu]
Sent:  Tuesday, September 26, 1995 12:26 PM
To:  HawkGT
Subject:  Rear end stand (again)


Hey everyone:

I'm 'bout to pick me up one of dem fancy 900RR shocks... and I intend
on losing the centerstand in the process.  Sooooooo, I'm gonna need
a rear-end stand to keep he bike in place whilest doing the important
things like wash^H^H^H^H rear wheel removal, chain adjustments and
installs (when I do the 520 conversion, which I STILL need to order),
etc.

Someone here posted a note a while back about a read wheel stand only
costing something like $60 or so.  Who was that, where did he/she buy
it from, how much was it, who do I call, etc.  I can't seem to locate
it anywhere in my archives.


Thanx,

Mike

PS - tell me all you know about the 900RR shock.  JimD is selling me one
of his (THANKS JIM, THE CHECK IS IN THE MAIL TODAY, I PROMISE!), and I'd
like to know what type of ride height and chain slider problems I'm
gonna run into.

 --
Mike Nielsen       e: greaney@unr.edu       v: 702.784.4752


#
begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT
M>)\^(B84`0:0"``$```````!``$``0>0!@`(````Y`0```````#H``$(@`<`
M&````$E032Y-:6-R;W-O9G0@36%I;"Y.;W1E`#$(`0V`!``"`````@`"``$$
M@`$`&P```%)%.B!296%R(&5N9"!S=&%N9"`H86=A:6XI`'T(`06``P`.````
MRP<)`!H`#0`S`"0``@!;`0$@@`,`#@```,L'"0`:``T`+P`N``(`80$!"8`!
M`"$```!#1C@R1$4T.#0Q1C=#13$Q.$4Y,3`P04$P,#-&,D9$,P!%!P$#D`8`
MM`8``!`````+`",```````,`)@``````"P`I```````#`#8``````$``.0!@
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M1D5!3"Q#03DT.3`Q*#0Q-2DW,C$M-S4X-4%(05=+4U1!3D1)4R0U.4E44T)!
M4TE#04Q,65-/345714Q$14143T=%5$A%4DE23TY450`````"`0D0`0```&H%
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M@#-Q&9!]!"`H9I$#H%I08Q`T8S7_`=!<$`(@52$`D"_",$$1<,%:05-424Q,
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M'!!GA',W(`2!74*_`F`3X`0@5H$*A5[4`#T``0````4`
,``!213H@`````$(6
`
end
#


------------------------------

From Gumby647@aol.com Tue Sep 26 17:16 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Ugly brown spooge on my cylinders!

    David 

  Its probably gas that is seeping out  past the float bowl gaskets.





















                                                                        Gumby


------------------------------

From tapioca@hamachi.engr.sgi.com Tue Sep 26 17:51 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Tank bag suggestions


You may want to take a look at the tank bags made by Fox. I'm pretty sure its
marketed by the same folks that make the shocks. Anywayz, the bag has three
outside pockets, one on the inside of the main compartment. The main
compartment is also accordioned to expand enough to hold even a helmet. (of
course with your clip ons, this will be sticking in your chest)

Couple things to like about it. One: Price. The Fox bag was about $60 bucks.
Compare this to the eclipse at $110. I looked at the eclipse bags, and they are
nice, but not by much. I think they look better, but the material is similar to
that on the Fox, and definitely not worth the extra $50.

Second: Size is about right. When not expanded, it comfortably fits below me,
even with my CBR600F2 clip ons.

Downside, stupid Fox logo. If fully loaded, at full lock it honks the horn.




On Sep 26,  2:15pm, alan@wana.pbrc.Hawaii.Edu wrote:
> Subject: Tank bag suggestions
> I need a tankbag for my Hawk.  Anybody have any suggestions?  What I most
> need it for is to keep my backpack from getting too heavy with textbooks,
> binders and other  student-related junk.  I'd rather not use a tailpack
> because I often carry a pasenger.  I'm looking for something that will
> allow me to keep the tank-bra I already have on there, something secure yet
> easily detachable, and  something affordable.  So, anything come to mind?
> I probally couldn't use a gigantic bag either because my clip-ons are
> mounted below the triple clamp and the thought of me "hugging" the tankbag
> would be too ridiculous.
>
> Thanks
> Alan
>-- End of excerpt from alan@wana.pbrc.Hawaii.Edu



-- 
Scott Takaoka					tapioca@engr.sgi.com
Digital Media Systems				415 390-2308
Revenue Development				415 390-6218 - fax
HawkGT 89, Red (what else)


------------------------------

From tbrking@netvoyage.net Tue Sep 26 19:11 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .

Colin,

IMO the Factory Configuration 10 jet kit is the hot ticket for your HAWK
reguardless of pipe brand. Use the recommended settings that come with the
jet kit.

We've sold LOTS of 700cc piston kits over the years now and I've never
heard of any complaints about degradation of reliability.


   Craig




------------------------------

From ecarrico@spl.lib.wa.us Tue Sep 26 19:26 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Tank bag suggestions



On Tue, 26 Sep 1995 alan@wana.pbrc.Hawaii.Edu wrote:

> I need a tankbag for my Hawk.  Anybody have any suggestions?  What I most
> need it for is to keep my backpack from getting too heavy with textbooks,
> binders and other  student-related junk.  I'd rather not use a tailpack
> because I often carry a pasenger.  I'm looking for something that will
> allow me to keep the tank-bra I already have on there, something secure yet
> easily detachable, and  something affordable.  So, anything come to mind?  
> I probally couldn't use a gigantic bag either because my clip-ons are
> mounted below the triple clamp and the thought of me "hugging" the tankbag
> would be too ridiculous.  

My Eclipse is very well made and expandable.  It's a mid-sized (I also 
have a really tiny one that is handy for short trips around town and fits 
the straps).  One reason I bought this tank bag is because it is somewhat 
narrower than many others I saw.  It doesn't interfere with my tank bra 
or vice versa.  You fit a set of harness straps on your bike, and they can 
stay on forever.  The tank bag clips and unclips to the harness. These 
don't come too cheaply, however. Mine was around $100 (with AMA discount) 
from my local dealer. You could probably do better mail order.  BTW, mine 
is black with red trim that matches the Hawk very well.

Ellen Carrico		"Really, if the lower orders don't set us a good
(206)386-4168		 example, what on earth is the use of them?  They 
ecarrico@spl.lib.wa.us	 seem, as a class, to have absolutely no sense of
			 moral responsibility."	
							Oscar Wilde 



------------------------------

From alan@wana.pbrc.Hawaii.Edu Tue Sep 26 21:12 PDT 1995
Subject: 120 front tire?

I have this ongoing debate with a friend of mine.  He just bought a Hawk
and wants to replace the stock tires with a set the new Dunlop Sportmax 2s
-- 160 in the rear and a 120 in the front.  I insisted that the 120 front
would not be good idea, he thinks a 120 would be better.  I thought that
unless you widen the front rim a 120 not only wouldn't fit on the stock
rim, but would actually hurt your performance.  Could running an oversize
front tire be dangerous?  Has anyone ever tried this?  I'm assuming that it
would slow down the steering a bit but would the small rim ever cause the
tire bead/sidewall to come lose, wobble or flex under hard braking or
cornering?  Can anybody shed some thing on this matter?

Thanks
Alan



------------------------------

From Hawknt@aol.com Tue Sep 26 21:42 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Drive line lash

My '89 has 10,200 miles on the original chain- assuming it was the original
when I bought the bike this past January with 6600 miles on it.  I have yet
to have to adjust it, it's still between the "A" and the "B" on the gauge.
 While the chain can make a difference in the lash, it doesn't seem to be a
major contributor to the lash on my Hawk.  Try put your Hawk on the
centerstand in gear (any gear) and turn the wheel.  With mine, there's no
slack in the hub cush drive (which is a common source), and even if you take
the slack out of the chain, the outer edge of the tire will move freely for
about 2" (if it's like mine).  I'd guess it's a matter of the clearances
between the gear dogs and the slots they fit into being on the large side.  

It was surprising to find this since my last bike, an FT500 Honda (the
single) had virtually no lash, and I would have assumed the Hawk would be at
least as good.  Oh well, a minor irritation in an otherwise stellar bike.  

Stuart


------------------------------

From etlgyas@etlxdmx.ericsson.se Wed Sep 27 00:09 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Ugly brown spooge on my cylinders!

> 
> My Hawk has 32k miles on it and I try and keep it nice and clean.
> I get dark, oily spooge running down the the outside of the cylinders
> that makes a real mess every few hundred miles (I ride at least 300
> miles/week).  It appears to be crankcase blow-by that is going through
> the carbs and leaking out of the carb boots, which are tight.  Any
> other possible source of this problem?  Are there any better ways of
> either sealing the boots or trapping the oil so it doesn't make such
> a mess?  Am I the only one to have this problem?  Are my rings com-
> pletely shot (good excuse for big-bore kit :^)?
> 

I've got an '88 Bros with 19k kms on it, and I got this horrible brown
mark over the left hand side of the engine/gearbox, it looked exactly
like it was the base gaskets leaking oil. It was especially bad when
the bike was left on the side stand.

However, it turned out to be petrol seeping from the carbs, probably from
overflowing float bowls.  I'm not sure why the float boals are filling up
in the first place (needle valve?), or whether a carb gasket set will
cure it.  But, the main thing to note is that it looked just like oil,
all the road muck would get on it and make it look even more like oil. It
was petrol, and it doesn't do it half as much now I leave it on the main
stand.

Being a Jap import, I think maybe I'll have to take the carbs apart and
give them a good clean.  It seems that when it was crated up and shipped
over nobody bothered to drain the carbs, and consequently they are
probably full of crap, need new gaskets, and possibly a needle valve.

Geoff./

  #==================================#==================================#
  | Geoff Adams, Tel: (01444) 234191 |   DOD #1481    |    MAG #88198   |
  |   etlgyas@etlxdmx.ericsson.se    |   OGRI         |    Hawk GT      |
  +----------------------------------+----------------------------------+
  |   Ericsson!, Even I Don't Know What I'm Saying, Why Should They?    |
  +----------------------------------+----------------------------------+
  |               Now :-             |            Has been :-           |
  | '88 Honda NT650J "Bros" - Black  |  XJ600S, XT600E, XS250, H100SII  |
  #==================================#==================================#


------------------------------

From mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil Wed Sep 27 05:53 PDT 1995
Subject: Electric riding gear on Hawks

I am about to buy some electric gloves and am also considering
a vest (Widder).  Has anyone else used these items on a Hawk?
I am wondering whether I should be worried about the charging
system capacity at all.  Should I get the thermostat switch?

David Mackintosh      '82 245 Turbo  '92 Sovereign  '95 Moda  '89 Hawk GT
mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil         Germantown, MD, USA          DoD #1360



------------------------------

From KRoy@Bangate.FDA.GOV Wed Sep 27 05:53 PDT 1995
Subject: re: 120 front tire?

>I have this ongoing debate with a friend of mine.  He just bought a Hawk
>and wants to replace the stock tires with a set the new Dunlop Sportmax 2s
>-- 160 in the rear and a 120 in the front.  I insisted that the 120 front
>would not be good idea, he thinks a 120 would be better.  

Well, I've got a 120/70 (or is it 120/60?) Michelin HiSport on the
front and haven't had any problems. I didn't set out to get a 120
though. I get my tires from racers that have "worn out" their tires
for the track (which leaves plenty of tread for the street). I
couldn't find a 110, was desparate, and got a 120. Steve Harris
(tuner for Brian Summers, a recently retired top level twins racer)
didn't think I'd have any trouble with it, and I haven't in about
3,000 miles.

>I'm assuming that it would slow down the steering a bit but would the 
>small rim ever cause the tire bead/sidewall to come lose, wobble or flex 
>under hard braking or cornering?

There's no sign of sidewall/bead degradation so far. Steering is a bit slower.

All of this said, if it weren't for the fact that I got a $100 tire for $25
I wouldn't have gotten the 120. If I can get a 110 when I go looking next time 
that's what I'll get.

Hope this is worth something,

Kirk


------------------------------

From bkrett@holly.ColoState.EDU Wed Sep 27 07:48 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: 120 front tire?

	A couple of years ago I was at the track and a guy was racing a 
120/60 tire on his stock front rim. I can say without a doubt that it 
will fit and that he was racing around the track on it so interms of use 
it will work.
	I also noticed that the profile on the tire was unbelievable curved 
(in a bad way). He was barely using half of the tread on the tire and 
when I took it for a few laps on the track it felt quite strange in the 
front. It actally turns in much quicker then the old tire size due to the 
weird profile on the tire but due to the sharp curve you ride off the 
side of the tire at a much lower lean angle.
	I do have to admit that a wider rim would be worth the investment. 
I was racing on a 110/70 metzler as the factory recommended and the tire 
felt quite loose on the edges once I went to a 3.5 inch rim and put a 
120/60 tire on my bike the front felt completely changed.

					Brian Krett
					MRA# 139
					88' Hawk blue

> rim, but would actually hurt your performance.  Could running an oversize
> front tire be dangerous?  Has anyone ever tried this?  I'm assuming that it
> would slow down the steering a bit but would the small rim ever cause the
> tire bead/sidewall to come lose, wobble or flex under hard braking or
> cornering?  Can anybody shed some thing on this matter?
> 
> Thanks
> Alan
> 
> 


------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Wed Sep 27 07:49 PDT 1995
Subject: Questions...

     
     Hi Craig --
     
     Wondering if you could provide some help.  I plan on doing my
     "engine performance" mods to my Hawk this winter (soon).  I was
     mainly thinking about:
     
     1. Cutting the snorkel off the airbox
     2. Having Mike Velasco (hope that's not a dirty word to you) do a
        nice "street" port/polish jobs on the heads
     2. Putting a pipe on the bike (TBR most likely)
     3. Re-jetting
     
     Given this configuration, I'm wondering if you see any reason at all
     that I should also consider the ignition-timing-advancer-thing.  I've
     read that these don't always work AND may be limited in function
     depending on what else you've done to the bike.  I'd also like to
     hear your views on whether the stock coils put out enough spark or
     if an aftermarket solution is the way to go.
     
     I plan on doing the jetting on a dyno to get it right.  I would rather
     not spend money on parts I don't need though.
     
     Thanks!
     
     Jeff
     



------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Wed Sep 27 08:04 PDT 1995
Subject: Re[2]: 120 front tire?

     I've already sent a personal reply but I thought I'd stick my $0.02
     in here.
     
     I realize that you haven't had a problem, Kirk, but under no circum-
     stances should someone run a 120 tire on a 2.5" rim.  I think you're
     taking too many chances.
     
     For what it's worth.
     
     Jeff


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: re: 120 front tire?
Author:  KRoy@Bangate.FDA.GOV at INTERNET
Date:    9/27/95 9:00 AM


>I have this ongoing debate with a friend of mine.  He just bought a Hawk 
>and wants to replace the stock tires with a set the new Dunlop Sportmax 2s 
>-- 160 in the rear and a 120 in the front.  I insisted that the 120 front 
>would not be good idea, he thinks a 120 would be better.  
     
Well, I've got a 120/70 (or is it 120/60?) Michelin HiSport on the 
front and haven't had any problems. I didn't set out to get a 120 
though. I get my tires from racers that have "worn out" their tires 
for the track (which leaves plenty of tread for the street). I 
couldn't find a 110, was desparate, and got a 120. Steve Harris 
(tuner for Brian Summers, a recently retired top level twins racer) 
didn't think I'd have any trouble with it, and I haven't in about 
3,000 miles.
     
>I'm assuming that it would slow down the steering a bit but would the 
>small rim ever cause the tire bead/sidewall to come lose, wobble or flex 
>under hard braking or cornering?
     
There's no sign of sidewall/bead degradation so far. Steering is a bit slower.
     
All of this said, if it weren't for the fact that I got a $100 tire for $25
I wouldn't have gotten the 120. If I can get a 110 when I go looking next time 
that's what I'll get.
     
Hope this is worth something,
     
Kirk



------------------------------

From rawlins@cig.mot.com Wed Sep 27 09:00 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Electric riding gear on Hawks

> 
> I am about to buy some electric gloves and am also considering
> a vest (Widder).  Has anyone else used these items on a Hawk?
> I am wondering whether I should be worried about the charging
> system capacity at all.  Should I get the thermostat switch?
> 
> David Mackintosh      '82 245 Turbo  '92 Sovereign  '95 Moda  '89 Hawk GT
> mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil         Germantown, MD, USA          DoD #1360
> 
> 

Yeah, I've used them.  Didn't seem to cause any problems, but you'll
notice that the vest is quite a bit warmer when the RPMs are up around 
5 grand.

Get the thermostat.  I'm glad I did.


Rob Rawlins     (rawlins@cig.mot.com)           90 Yamaha FJ1200
                                                90 Honda  HawkGT
DoD# 1172                                       81 Suzuki PE400


------------------------------

From greaney@ee.unr.edu Wed Sep 27 10:25 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: 120 front tire?

> 
> I have this ongoing debate with a friend of mine.  He just bought a Hawk
> and wants to replace the stock tires with a set the new Dunlop Sportmax 2s
> -- 160 in the rear and a 120 in the front.  I insisted that the 120 front
> would not be good idea, he thinks a 120 would be better.  I thought that
> unless you widen the front rim a 120 not only wouldn't fit on the stock
> rim, but would actually hurt your performance.  Could running an oversize
> front tire be dangerous?  Has anyone ever tried this?  I'm assuming that it
> would slow down the steering a bit but would the small rim ever cause the
> tire bead/sidewall to come lose, wobble or flex under hard braking or
> cornering?  Can anybody shed some thing on this matter?

FWIW:

I run a 110/80 on my bike, and the profile is virtually perfect.  This is
with the stock 2.5" rim.  I once ran a 110/70, but the profile was tweaked
and the tire wore in a pattern not seen by humans until then or since...

A 120/xx is flat out too wide for a 2.5" rim.  If it were even remotely
suitable, the tire manufacturers would sell them to you, because hey, they
actually cost more.  Metzeler informed me that their 110/80 was designed
for 2.5" rims (MEZ1), with the Hawk in mind, and that anything larger was 
unacceptable.  Dunlop said their 110/70 was OK for the 2.5" rim, but
weren't overly enthusiastic about it (Sportmax).  Remember, you can squeeze
just about anything onto a rim of any size (2.15" rims running 130 
tires, for example, ala RZ350), but it is not necessarily the ideal 
tire choice for that bike or for that rim.

Of course, YMMV, and if the tire is cheap enough, and you aren't really
using all of the front tire anyway, you may be OK.  (another poster mentioned
buying his tires used from races, which is an excellent way to do it,
but NORACERS race on 110/80s.  At least, non that sell their used tires,
or even leave any tread on them when they're finished.  Anyone running
a stock rim on a Hawk is probably out on the track for fun, anyway. 
That's why I'm gonna be there!).


Have fun,

Mike


------------------------------

From mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil Wed Sep 27 11:21 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: 120 front tire?

>I run a 110/80 on my bike, and the profile is virtually perfect.  This is
>with the stock 2.5" rim.  I once ran a 110/70, but the profile was tweaked
>and the tire wore in a pattern not seen by humans until then or since...

Well, the 110/80 is the stock size, so the profile should be perfect, right?
I have an ME1 Race up front in 110/70 which seems to be handle well, but it 
is wearing pretty triangularly (?), which is the opposite of my somewhat 
squared-off rear tire.  I will try the MEZ1 next in 110/80.

David Mackintosh      '82 245 Turbo  '92 Sovereign  '95 Moda  '89 Hawk GT
mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil         Germantown, MD, USA          DoD #1360



------------------------------

From Phil_Calvin@unc.edu Wed Sep 27 13:17 PDT 1995
Subject: Hawkworks Address?

Many people have asked me for the address.

Well, I got the newsletter out to bring in this morning, but left it on the
floor at home.  I will get the address asap.  It's NOT the address in
Arkansas that I used to have.  I sent my money there, and the reply came
from California.  Better to get the real address..

I'll have it for you "real soon now" (tm).

Phil




------------------------------

From AGault@aol.com Wed Sep 27 14:17 PDT 1995
Subject: fairing

Does anybody have a spit fire shield?  if so what do you think of it.  i just
ordered one   was wondering what my fellow hawkers thought of this piece of
equip.??



------------------------------

From tbrking@netvoyage.net Wed Sep 27 18:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: 120 front tire?

>I have this ongoing debate with a friend of mine.  He just bought a Hawk
>and wants to replace the stock tires with a set the new Dunlop Sportmax 2s
>-- 160 in the rear and a 120 in the front.  I insisted that the 120 front
>would not be good idea<<<

You are right Alan. Very bad idea.




------------------------------

From JTSMCRIDER@aol.com Wed Sep 27 19:38 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Electric riding gear on Hawks

I have used a Widder Vest with no problems.  I haven't tried the gloves yet.
 I have not measured the electrical load with the vest, but the lights stay
bright, and the battery doesn't seem to have a charge problem.  Yes, I would
get the thermostat.  Mine simply gets too hot running wide open.


------------------------------

From GTRider9@aol.com Wed Sep 27 20:13 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Tank bag suggestions

In a message dated 95-09-26 21:03:48 EDT, tapioca@hamachi.engr.sgi.com (Scott
Takaoka) writes:

>You may want to take a look at the tank bags made by Fox.  I'm pretty sure
its
>marketed by the same folks that make the shocks.

I don't think so--the tankbags come from Fox Racing, the shocks come from Fox
Shox--I think they are separate companies.
 
>Couple things to like about it. One: Price. The Fox bag was about $60 bucks.
>Compare this to the eclipse at $110. I looked at the eclipse bags, and they
>are
>nice, but not by much. I think they look better, but the material is similar
>to
>that on the Fox, and definitely not worth the extra $50.

I have a Fox bag on my GS1100; the only thing I don't like about it is that
the bag itself is made out of a very slippery material, and it's always
sliding around on it's pad--my Eclipse bag stays put better, which is nice on
the Hawk's narrow tank.  The Fox bag is nice otherwise, and definitely a deal
price-wise.






------------------------------

From GTRider9@aol.com Wed Sep 27 20:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Tank bag suggestions

In a message dated 95-09-26 22:45:02 EDT, ecarrico@spl.lib.wa.us (Ellen
Carrico) writes:

> It doesn't interfere with my tank bra 
>or vice versa. 

Actually, I think my tank bra helps keep my tank bag (Eclipse, 1902 vintage)
from sliding around on the tank as much as it used to.

Dave


------------------------------

From GTRider9@aol.com Wed Sep 27 20:22 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: 120 front tire?

In a message dated 95-09-27 00:30:00 EDT, alan@wana.pbrc.Hawaii.Edu writes:

>  I thought that
>unless you widen the front rim a 120 not only wouldn't fit on the stock
>rim, but would actually hurt your performance.  Could running an oversize
>front tire be dangerous? 

Let's just say that if your buddy does this, be sure you always ride in
front.

Dave


------------------------------

From GTRider9@aol.com Wed Sep 27 20:49 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Electric riding gear on Hawks

In a message dated 95-09-27 09:23:04 EDT, mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David
Mackintosh) writes:

>I am about to buy some electric gloves and am also considering
>a vest (Widder).  Has anyone else used these items on a Hawk?
>I am wondering whether I should be worried about the charging
>system capacity at all.  Should I get the thermostat switch?

Living in Colorado, I have put a lot of miles on my Hawk while wearing my
Widder electric vest without any charging problems.  I don't know how much
difference adding the gloves would make--it would depend on how much they
draw.  I wouldn't bother with the thermostat--If it's cold enough to need the
vest, you'll want to crank it anyway.  Buy the vest with the collar
though--it's worth having, although it does interfere with the collar on one
of my jackets.  I use the fan circuit on my bike to power my vest, since
there's no ACC. terminal in the fuse box.

It's really quite satisfying to ride with a group of people who are all
freezing their butts off when you are toasty warm yourself!

Enjoy!
Dave  


------------------------------

From ecarrico@spl.lib.wa.us Wed Sep 27 21:13 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Tank bag suggestions



On Wed, 27 Sep 1995 GTRider9@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 95-09-26 22:45:02 EDT, ecarrico@spl.lib.wa.us (Ellen
> Carrico) writes:
> 
> > It doesn't interfere with my tank bra 
> >or vice versa. 
> 
> Actually, I think my tank bra helps keep my tank bag (Eclipse, 1902 vintage)
> from sliding around on the tank as much as it used to.
> 
I agree with Dave. I get less slippage on the bike with the tank bra.  I 
do have some problems lately getting the front harness straps to hold the 
bag securely.  I don't remember having this problem in the past so I must 
have rigged it differently this time.

ellen


------------------------------

From ecarrico@spl.lib.wa.us Wed Sep 27 21:16 PDT 1995
Subject: Where's it go?

Due to a rebuild by a rather free-form (wonderful) friend, my horn 
doesn't seem to have been put back on the Hawk correctly.  In fact, 
during the course of a ride it fell off.  The wires melted against the 
pipes, the fuse blew ...  I need to reattach the horn (actually another 
friend is doing this for me since the bike is currently residing 1200 
miles away in his garage).  The manual doesn't show the horn location at 
all.  Could someone please help out by sending him the information:

malpen@owl.csusm.edu

Thanks!
Ellen Carrico			Democracy substitutes election by the 
ecarrico@spl.lib.wa.us		incompetent many for appointment by the
				corrupt few.
						George Bernard Shaw



------------------------------

From jamesm@calweb.com Wed Sep 27 22:28 PDT 1995
Subject: Brake drag


I've got a fairly serious problem with dragging brakes and I'm looking
for some pointers on what to do about it.  The brakes in question are
from a '91 F2, which are now on my Hawk after a complete front-end swap.

The front wheel turns freely when the calipers are off (so I know the
wheel bearings and axle are in good shape), but when the calipers are
mounted, I can barely turn the wheel with my hands.  I removed the
calipers, spread the pads apart, and put them back on.  Free turning
until I squeezed the brake lever once, then hard turning again.  Bled
the brakes completely, replacing all of the milky old fluid with fresh
DOT4.  This improved lever feel, but did nothing for the dragging
problem.

The only thing I can think of is that the pucks are sticking in the
caliper bores, and so won't retract when the lever is released.  I
suppose, if this is so, that a complete re-build is in order. :-/

btw, other than the brake-drag problem, this front-end swap was a breeze
and was well worth the effort.  The stock F2 damping and spring rates
feel great, and radials make a much bigger difference than I expected.



------------------------------

From HOFSLR@aol.com Thu Sep 28 00:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Hawk GT Motorcycle Info

Please include me on your mailing list for Hawk Motorcycles

I have a 1978 Hawk and am interested in preserving this Bike.

Thank you very much for your time


------------------------------

From mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil Thu Sep 28 04:42 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Brake drag

>The only thing I can think of is that the pucks are sticking in the
>caliper bores, and so won't retract when the lever is released.  I
>suppose, if this is so, that a complete re-build is in order. :-/

Yup.  It's not too big of a deal, though.  When I did my Hawk caliper,
the hardest thing was getting the old pistons out, since one of them
was really pretty bad.  Use the brake lever to pump the old pistons out,
you'll have to add fluid as it gets low in the master cylinder.  When
the first piston gets most of the way out (one will be easier than the 
other), put a c-clamp around it and the caliper.  Keep pumping and the 
other one (and a lot of fluid, do it over a bucket) will come out.  If 
you're lucky, the first one will come out by hand (or with a well-padded
set of channel-lock pliers).  Remove the seals with a toothpick or sim-
ilar implement.  Polish the pistons and caliper bores with very fine 
emory paper (600+ grit) and/or steel wool.  It's a good idea to replace
the seals while you're in there.

I think there is one other possibility, that the fluid return orifice in 
the master cylinder is clogged which would also keep the pads from 
returning.

>btw, other than the brake-drag problem, this front-end swap was a breeze
>and was well worth the effort.  The stock F2 damping and spring rates
>feel great, and radials make a much bigger difference than I expected.

Sounds great, I'm debating doing this myself.

David Mackintosh      '82 245 Turbo  '92 Sovereign  '95 Moda  '89 Hawk GT
mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil         Germantown, MD, USA          DoD #1360



------------------------------

From gmann@mail.vt.edu Thu Sep 28 07:49 PDT 1995
Subject: Geoffrey Mann:   gmann@mail.vt.edu

Sir-
        Please add me to your mailing list.  Thanks!
                                                        Geoff
gmann@mail.vt.edu




------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Thu Sep 28 08:31 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Brake drag

>The only thing I can think of is that the pucks are sticking in the
>caliper bores, and so won't retract when the lever is released.  I
>suppose, if this is so, that a complete re-build is in order. :-/

You're right, probably is the caliper pistons sticking.  You probably
(knock on wood) don't need to do a complete rebuild...when the calipers on
my old Sabre were stuck (bought it at a junk yard), I removed the caliper
from the fork, removed a pad, pumped it till the pistons pushed the one pad
almost till it hit the other side (don't crush the pad!), removed the pad,
used a toothbrush and WD40 (or Triflo) and cleaned and lubricated the
pistons as much as possible.  Then, I put the pad back in, pried the
pistons back down (using the backside of the pad) until they were flush
with the caliper surface, removed pad, cleaned/lubed again, put the pad
back in, pumped it out again...after about 10 times, the things worked like
new.  I certainly recommend doing this procedure whenever installing a new
set of pads, too.  Gives you a chance to inspect for leaks, blown seals,
etc.

Hugh




------------------------------

From rawlins@cig.mot.com Thu Sep 28 09:24 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Brake drag

> 
> 
> I've got a fairly serious problem with dragging brakes and I'm looking
> for some pointers on what to do about it.  The brakes in question are
> from a '91 F2, which are now on my Hawk after a complete front-end swap.
> 
> The front wheel turns freely when the calipers are off (so I know the
> wheel bearings and axle are in good shape), but when the calipers are
> mounted, I can barely turn the wheel with my hands.  I removed the
> calipers, spread the pads apart, and put them back on.  Free turning
> until I squeezed the brake lever once, then hard turning again.  Bled
> the brakes completely, replacing all of the milky old fluid with fresh
> DOT4.  This improved lever feel, but did nothing for the dragging
> problem.
> 
> The only thing I can think of is that the pucks are sticking in the
> caliper bores, and so won't retract when the lever is released.  I
> suppose, if this is so, that a complete re-build is in order. :-/
> 
> btw, other than the brake-drag problem, this front-end swap was a breeze
> and was well worth the effort.  The stock F2 damping and spring rates
> feel great, and radials make a much bigger difference than I expected.
> 
> 

You got it.  That's probably what it is.

If rebuilding the calipers doesn't work, then it could be a pinched 
brake line that lets fluid through when you squeeze the brake lever,
but does not let it return easily.  Or you could have a problem in
the master cylinder that requires a rebuild.  Or a caliper is not
lined up correctly with the rotor and is binding.


Rob Rawlins     (rawlins@cig.mot.com)           90 Yamaha FJ1200
                                                90 Honda  HawkGT
DoD# 1172                                       81 Suzuki PE400


------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Thu Sep 28 10:47 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .

> We've sold LOTS of 700cc piston kits over the years now and I've never
> heard of any complaints about degradation of reliability.
> 
> 
>    Craig

You know, maybe I haven't been around long enough, but in the last 8 
months or so I haven't seen ANY open-forum discussion on major motor 
changes (high-comp, big-bore, etc.)  Being that Mr. Erion is now one of 
us and has the most experience of anyone I could think of ( and probably 
stands to make some money off the explanation saleswise), do you think 
maybe we could talk him into a brief synopsis of what is available 
piston, rod, and crank-wise and what HP gain vs. dependability loss we 
might be looking at?

How about it, Craig?  I suppose, speaking for myself, that I could be 
persuaded to ask REALLY REALLY nicely . . . :-)

Thanx in advance, 
DC



------------------------------

From chrisw@usa.pipeline.com Thu Sep 28 10:48 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Electric riding gear on Hawks

Thanks David for posting my earlier reply. I meant to send it to the  
group but didn't. 
 
I've got the vest with the collar, though I kinda wish I'd gotten the  
one without it. In my size (small) the collar gets restrictive when you  
turn your head. Almost like wearing a neck brace. But it is definitely  
cozy warm. This might not be a factor in a larger size.  
 
I agree with Dave (GTRider) about the thermostat, if it's cold enough  
to wear the vest, you'll probably want it on. Then again, you'll never  
catch me complaining about being too warm.  
 
And one last word about cold-weather gear, for anyone considering going  
electric, start with the gloves. They are amazing. I've always been  
able to put enough layers on to keep my body warm, but my hands always  
froze. At every traffic light you could see me leaning down to warm my  
hands on the engine. Now I can hop off the bike, take the gloves off  
and actually use a keyboard without first having to thaw out my fingers! 
Adding the vest just means that I don't look like the Michelin Man  
on a motorcycle.  
 
-- 
 
ChrisW 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


------------------------------

From Phil_Calvin@unc.edu Thu Sep 28 11:23 PDT 1995
Subject: Hawkworks Address (Here it is)


Here's the blurb from the latest issue:
-----------------------
Hawkworks, the official newsletter of the Honda Hawk GT Owners' Network, is
published bimonthly. Membership fees in the U.S. and territories are $20.00.
Canadian members please add $5.00. All other countries please add $10.00.
Please remit in U.S. funds by money order, or draft on a U.S. bank.

Comments, inquiries, etc. should be directed to:

Hawkworks
2651 Harcourt Dr.
San Diego, CA 92123
phone: (619) 571-7957
------------------------

I'd tell them what size t-shirt you wear also, since your $20 includes one.

Phil Calvin                                             DoD #242   '91 HawkGT
http://cmr.sph.unc.edu/~calvin/ 




------------------------------

From greaney@ee.unr.edu Thu Sep 28 11:53 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .

> 
> > We've sold LOTS of 700cc piston kits over the years now and I've never
> > heard of any complaints about degradation of reliability.
> > 
> > 
> >    Craig
> 
> You know, maybe I haven't been around long enough, but in the last 8 
> months or so I haven't seen ANY open-forum discussion on major motor 
> changes (high-comp, big-bore, etc.)  Being that Mr. Erion is now one of 
> us and has the most experience of anyone I could think of ( and probably 
> stands to make some money off the explanation saleswise), do you think 
> maybe we could talk him into a brief synopsis of what is available 
> piston, rod, and crank-wise and what HP gain vs. dependability loss we 
> might be looking at?
> 
> How about it, Craig?  I suppose, speaking for myself, that I could be 
> persuaded to ask REALLY REALLY nicely . . . :-)

HearHear!  

I second the motion.  The puck is passed to Craig...



Mike

--
Mike Nielsen       e: greaney@unr.edu       v: 702.784.4752


------------------------------

From cfaison@magpage.com Thu Sep 28 13:08 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .

>> 
>> How about it, Craig?  I suppose, speaking for myself, that I could be 
>> persuaded to ask REALLY REALLY nicely . . . :-)
>
>HearHear!  
>
>I second the motion.  The puck is passed to Craig...
>
>
>
>Mike

We'll beg if you want us too...
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Craig D. Faison                          phone 302.325.5737
Kodak Imaging Services                   fax 302.322.2233
259 Quigley Blvd., Suite E               Email cfaison@magpage.com
New Castle, DE 19720
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



------------------------------

From CABethel@aol.com Thu Sep 28 13:21 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Electric riding gear on Hawks

I have a Widder electric vest (basic model) and gloves that I have used for
three years or so. I do have the optional thermostat. I have had zero
problems. I do wait to make the electrical connection until the engine is
running. Other than that, I recommend both Widder products. I formerly had an
Eclipse vest, but it died after a few years & I decided to try the Widder.


------------------------------

From CABethel@aol.com Thu Sep 28 13:26 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Electric riding gear on Hawks

Just another comment about the thermostat question. The answer may depend on
the climate where you live. Here in the D.C. area there are wide temperature
swings, and the Widder without a thermostat would, for me, be a lot less
comfortable. A setting that's right at 7 am may be horrible at 9, yet some
extra warmth is still welcome.


------------------------------

From JTSMCRIDER@aol.com Thu Sep 28 14:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Where's it go?

On my '88 Hawk, the horn mounts at the same attachment point as the lower
left radiator mount.
JT



------------------------------

From alan@wana.pbrc.Hawaii.Edu Thu Sep 28 17:07 PDT 1995
Subject: Rear brake line routing...

First of all I'd like to thank everyone who responded to my tank bag and
front tire questions.  I wish I could contribute more but, unfortunatley, I
have no experience about some things  (ie eletric vests?).  ;)   Just
kidding didn't mean to gloat.

Well my problem is my rear brake line needs to be replaced and rerouted. 
As a result of the extra ride height (from a CBR900RR shock) my brake line
has been rubbing up against the chain. I just saw a small groove in the
line today.  I have no chainguard, never had one and it wasn't in the box
of spare parts I once had.  Currently the rear brake line runs from a the
master cylinder to a hanger near the shock, then runs parallel above the
chain, to a zip-tie attached to the left passenger peg, and angles in
toward the brake.  This no longer seems like a good idea because the extra
travel of the swingarm puts more slack/stress and sometimes overextends the
brake line.  I already have a steel braided front line, should I have
another steel line out back, but I'd rather not have a very touchy back
brake.  Any suggestions on what kind of line I ahould use?  And about
rerouting, I'd like to place the rear line out of the way and give  it a
'cleaner' look.  Can it be routed through or along the swingarm?  Ok, I
guess the racers out there would know where to route the brake line since
most racehawks I've seen have no chainguard.  What are my options for brake
lines and how much do they cost?  And where could I route the rear line and
what would that entail?  

Thanks again.

Alan



------------------------------

From AFKJV@VMS.ACAD2.ALASKA.EDU Thu Sep 28 18:08 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Tank bag suggestions

I have been using an OSI tank bag (I don't recall the model#, but it's 
the intermediate size) for 5 years. The bag is expandable & attaches to 
the bike via 2 forward straps that attach to the front of the external 
frame & 1 rear strap. Absolutely no bag movement whatsoever. Also, the 
bottom of the bag is velcroed to a foam pad. Good product.

Kit Vercella


------------------------------

From GTRider9@aol.com Thu Sep 28 20:37 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Tank bag suggestions

In a message dated 95-09-28 21:35:13 EDT, afkjv@VMS.ACAD2.ALASKA.EDU writes:

>I have been using an OSI tank bag ... Good product.
>
>Kit Vercella

Hey Kit, I guess you're back.  How was that Trans-Canadian bike ride?

Later,
Dave



------------------------------

From GTRider9@aol.com Thu Sep 28 20:44 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .

In a message dated 95-09-28 16:26:52 EDT, cfaison@magpage.com (Craig Faison)
writes:

>>> How about it, Craig?  I suppose, speaking for myself, that I could be 
>>> persuaded to ask REALLY REALLY nicely . . . :-)
>>
>>HearHear!  
>>
>>I second the motion.  The puck is passed to Craig...
>>
>>
>>
>>Mike
>
>We'll beg if you want us too...

Jeez, you guys are taking this a little far aren't you?  I think I'll just go
back to work on my Vmax/Hawk GT project.  

Dave


------------------------------

From JTSMCRIDER@aol.com Thu Sep 28 20:45 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Electric riding gear on Hawks

In a message dated 95-09-28 13:59:52 EDT, you write:

>I agree with Dave (GTRider) about the thermostat, if it's cold enough  
>to wear the vest, you'll probably want it on. Then again, you'll never  
>catch me complaining about being too warm.  

It depends on what you're wearing over the vest, I suppose.  I don't ride in
temperatures much below 25 deg, but with my Widder turned up to max under my
thinsulate-lined jacket, it gets uncomfortably hot very quickly.  That's why
I went to the thermostat, and it makes the vest useful through a much broader
range of temperatures.

> 
>And one last word about cold-weather gear, for anyone considering going  
>electric, start with the gloves. They are amazing. I've always been  
>able to put enough layers on to keep my body warm, but my hands always  
>froze. 

The gloves are great, I agree.  But I don't think I'd start with them as you
suggest.  One of the reasons your hands (and feet) get so much colder than
other parts is that the body shuts down the blood supply to the extremities
when the core temperature begins to drop.  That is, the body starts to
protect the vital core by routing the blood there at the expense of
expendables, like fingers and toes.  The point is, that the vest reduces this
natural reflex by keeping the core warm.  The result is that blood continues
to go to the extremities, and they don't get so cold.   I'd start with the
vest.

JT


------------------------------

From tbrking@netvoyage.net Thu Sep 28 22:47 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Brake drag

If it makes you feel better James all of our F2 race bikes had draging
front brakes. We gave up trying to fix it and just told the riders not to
worry about it. For some starnge reason it didn't seem to affect anything
over 1mph.


   Craig




------------------------------

From tbrking@netvoyage.net Thu Sep 28 23:06 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .

>Will these pistons fit in an Africa Twin motor?  I.e., are they cast in such
>a way that their skirts can be trimmed to clear the A.T. crank?
>
>I would sure like to know!

Well then you got it. The 82mm pistons fit in and net a 1mm overbore from
stock Queenie size.




------------------------------

From tbrking@netvoyage.net Thu Sep 28 23:06 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .

Hi Colin and thanks!

To goose her up in the up-to-55mph-range you NEED a pipe, jet kit and an
ignition advancer. None of these items will sacrafice anything, well,
except for your centerstand. You'll pickup about 10-12 hp and a lot of it
in the sub 6000rpm range.


   Craig




------------------------------

From tbrking@netvoyage.net Thu Sep 28 23:06 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .

>do you think
>maybe we could talk him into a brief synopsis of what is available
>piston, rod, and crank-wise and what HP gain vs. dependability loss we
>might be looking at?
>
>How about it, Craig?  I suppose, speaking for myself, that I could be
>persuaded to ask REALLY REALLY nicely . . . :-)

Well then ask nicely then. 

I'll save this e-mail and put a brief list together this weekend.

Thanks for asking!


   Craig




------------------------------

From creek@ascc01.ascc.att.com Fri Sep 29 06:52 PDT 1995
Subject: Source for new brake lines


In the interest of bigger stoppies, I'm looking for a good place to get a 
braided stainless (or Kevlar, which is better?) front brake line.  Are their
any gotchas like dimensions and stuff that I need to know?

Also, my front pads look about shot.  I'll take suggestions of what brand 
I should look into.  I do exclusively street and tour riding, so I don't need
something that's gonna chew my rotor.

Thanks!
Toby ('90 red, but thinking British Racing Green with silver decals)
-- 
Tobin M. Creek - System Administrator
AT&T Advanced Software Construction Center
creek@ascc01.ascc.att.com - 919-380-4618 / 919-380-4518 fax


------------------------------

From WhiteWorm@aol.com Fri Sep 29 07:07 PDT 1995
Subject: Hey.

Just how much better will a pipe alone, (or a pipe with jetting), make my
stock hawk.
Is it worth the cash.  The cash that I don't really have!

Duke


------------------------------

From creek@ascc01.ascc.att.com Fri Sep 29 07:08 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Tank bag suggestions


I have a Marsee tankbag.  They are made in the USA.  They have a few
different models, but I have the 30 liter bag.  Its expandable from 18 liter
to the official big-ass-bag size.  It has two external pockets, a top map 
pocket and small pocket for small stuff (I keep my earplugs in there).  
Neoprene rubber bottom pad which velcroes (verb?) on with two large strips.  
Fastex quick-release fasteners.  Quality is absolutely top notch.  Costs 
$120 direct from Marsee.  They also have a nice twenty liter without the 
external pockets for about $80.  Call 1-800-293-2400 and get a catalog.

FWIW, I tossed the around-the-steering-head harness that Marsee and most
other bags use.  I went to REI and got some nylon strapping and set up
two separate straps for the front that go around the box frame and rest 
against the rubber pads on the bottom of the tank.  Works like a charm.
No more bag on the arm in the corners.

Toby
-- 
Tobin M. Creek - System Administrator
AT&T Advanced Software Construction Center
creek@ascc01.ascc.att.com - 919-380-4618 / 919-380-4518 fax


------------------------------

From Kenneth.Lawas@analog.com Fri Sep 29 07:11 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Source for new brake lines


  RE: Brake lines

  I like my Goodridge line.  It has good quality plated steel
  fittings, and is plastic-coated so that you don't have to wrap
  it to keep your body work from being sawed apart.  Technically,
  I think Kevlar actually expands less than steel, but the steel
  looks great (especially if you don't have to wrap it).

  TBR has them, but I've seen other sources advertised (Sport Cycle
  Products?).


  RE: Brake pads

  I've heard the Honda OEM pads are good for the Hawk.  I haven't been
  that impressed with the EBC (green?) I put on my Yamaha last year.

  
  RE: British Racing Green with Silver Decals

  I just painted my Hawk tank, and was surprised to find that the
  decals were not transparent, but were opaque, colored to match the
  paint.  My red tank didn't quite match the red decal from Honda.
  I don't know if they are available transparent.

  -Ken
   kenneth.lawas@analog.com



------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Fri Sep 29 07:21 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Source for new brake lines

     I've tried both Kevlar and Stainless, I don't think there's much
     difference in feel but the Kevlar are lighter and the coating doesn't
     corrode/oxidize/discolor.  I'm using Galfer (green) pads right now
     and am very happy with them -- they're also kind to the rotors as
     they are not a semi-metallic pad.  Pad wear will be slightly
     accelerated, however.
     
     Jeff


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Source for new brake lines
Author:  creek@ascc01.ascc.att.com (Tobin M. Creek - ATT ASCC) at INTERNET
Date:    9/29/95 7:06 AM


     
In the interest of bigger stoppies, I'm looking for a good place to get a 
braided stainless (or Kevlar, which is better?) front brake line.  Are their 
any gotchas like dimensions and stuff that I need to know?
     
Also, my front pads look about shot.  I'll take suggestions of what brand 
I should look into.  I do exclusively street and tour riding, so I don't need 
something that's gonna chew my rotor.
     
Thanks!
Toby ('90 red, but thinking British Racing Green with silver decals) 
-- 
Tobin M. Creek - System Administrator
AT&T Advanced Software Construction Center 
creek@ascc01.ascc.att.com - 919-380-4618 / 919-380-4518 fax



------------------------------

From RGGAMMA@aol.com Fri Sep 29 07:29 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Tank bag suggestions

I have used the Wolfman  magnetic tank bag with great success (they are made
in Boulder Colorado and are of the highest quality)  If you are interested I
can get a flyer out to you via snail mail.  Just send me your address.

Cheers

Randy


------------------------------

From ditullio@VNET.IBM.COM Fri Sep 29 07:58 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Source for new brake lines

In a previous message, you wrote:
>     I've tried both Kevlar and Stainless, I don't think there's much
>     difference in feel but the Kevlar are lighter and the coating doesn't
>     corrode/oxidize/discolor.  I'm using Galfer (green) pads right now
>     and am very happy with them -- they're also kind to the rotors as
>     they are not a semi-metallic pad.  Pad wear will be slightly
>     accelerated, however.
>
>     Jeff
>
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
>Subject: Source for new brake lines
>Author:  creek@ascc01.ascc.att.com (Tobin M. Creek - ATT ASCC) at INTERNET
>Date:    9/29/95 7:06 AM
>
>
>
>In the interest of bigger stoppies, I'm looking for a good place to get a
>braided stainless (or Kevlar, which is better?) front brake line.  Are their
>any gotchas like dimensions and stuff that I need to know?
>
>Also, my front pads look about shot.  I'll take suggestions of what brand
>I should look into.  I do exclusively street and tour riding, so I don't need
>something that's gonna chew my rotor.
>
>Thanks!
>Toby ('90 red, but thinking British Racing Green with silver decals)
>--
>Tobin M. Creek - System Administrator
>AT&T Advanced Software Construction Center
>creek@ascc01.ascc.att.com - 919-380-4618 / 919-380-4518 fax
>
Reply-To: ditullio@lfs.loral.com

Where did you get the gaflers? I mail-ordered some a while ago and now that I
need replacements I can't remember where to go.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
|Mike DiTullio                 |All opinions are my own, and I have    |
|ditullio@lfs.loral.com        |thousands of them to donate...ask me.  |
|spazman@ix.netcom.com         |  Atlantic City, NJ                    |
|Spazman@aol.com               |  87 VW-GTI, 89 Hawk-GT, 95 ST1100     |
------------------------------------------------------------------------


------------------------------

From heaven@pogo.den.mmc.com Fri Sep 29 07:59 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Rear brake line routing...

Chafong used to sell a steel brake line kit which routes
through the swingarm, and may still have it.  You basically
run the line through one of the oval rubber plugs in the swingarm
near the lower shock mount then drill a hole in the top edge of 
the swingarm just before it bends back around the rear wheel.
The easiest thing to do is see if Chafong still has the kit
and instructions.  Don't buy the rear brake resevoir eliminator
kit, as it is a clear plastic tube that weeps brake fluid.

Brian Heaven
Heaven Racing with the broken kneecap (not that I'm bitter)


------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Fri Sep 29 08:28 PDT 1995
Subject: Where to get Galfer's

     

     
>Where did you get the gaflers? I mail-ordered some a while ago and now that I 
>need replacements I can't remember where to go. 

I got mine through a local cycle store -- I believe they ordered them direct
from Lockhart.

Cheers!

jeff



------------------------------

From Rednzl@aol.com Fri Sep 29 08:43 PDT 1995
Subject: carbs

perhaps you can help me... I've got a &8 CX 500 and my clymer book does not
tell me how to tune the carbs..My problem,I believe, is that its getting way
too much air. As a result, no amount of throttle can get it really movin'.
One guy I know, a car guy diagnosted the problem but does not know much about
bikes. Could it be something as simple as, "tighten the main jet finger tight
plus half a turn" ? If so please let me know, I really don't have the bread
to take it in.  Thanks, Pete, Austin, Tx


------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Fri Sep 29 09:27 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .

> >>> How about it, Craig?  I suppose, speaking for myself, that I could be 
> >>> persuaded to ask REALLY REALLY nicely . . . :-)
> >>
> >>HearHear!  
> >>
> >>I second the motion.  The puck is passed to Craig...
> >>Mike
> >
> >We'll beg if you want us too...
> 
> Jeez, you guys are taking this a little far aren't you?  I think I'll just go
> back to work on my Vmax/Hawk GT project.  

Hmmm . . . would that be a Vmax motor in a Hawk frame, or a Hawk motor in 
a Vmax frame?  Either way, I dunno . . .

DC
 


------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Fri Sep 29 09:36 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Source for new brake lines

>   RE: British Racing Green with Silver Decals
> 
>   I just painted my Hawk tank, and was surprised to find that the
>   decals were not transparent, but were opaque, colored to match the
>   paint.  My red tank didn't quite match the red decal from Honda.
>   I don't know if they are available transparent.

They are.  Call Tapeworks at 1-800-272-TAPE.  They will make any decal 
you want for $2 per linear inch.

Come to think of it- let me confirm that # before y'all go start calling 
it.  I haven't got my address book with me . . .  I"ll repost it this 
weekend.

DC



------------------------------

From briggsw@microsoft.com Fri Sep 29 10:40 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: Rear brake line routing...




.Can it be routed through or along the swingarm?  Ok, I
guess the racers out there would know where to route the brake line since
most racehawks I've seen have no chainguard.  What are my options for   
brake
lines and how much do they cost?  And where could I route the rear line   
and
what would that entail?

 ----------------
Take a piece of .5 " aluminum stock about 6 inches long.  There are two   
holes (vertical to each other) near the rear of the swingarm for mounting   
the chaingaurd.  Bolt the aluminum piece to these holes so that it sticks   
straight up, with the top end higher then the chain.  You can then   
zip-tie the brake hose to a hole in the top of your aluminum piece.  If I   
did a terrible job describing it, I can draw a picture.
This works really well if you still have the mounting bolts for the   
chainguard.
Credit for this goes to Eric Dye, who has done this to three Hawks   
(including mine) that I know of,  with no reported problems yet.
Briggs  

#
begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT
M>)\^(A\1`0:0"``$```````!``$``0>0!@`(````Y`0```````#H``$(@`<`
M&````$E032Y-:6-R;W-O9G0@36%I;"Y.;W1E`#$(`0V`!``"`````@`"``$$
M@`$`'P```%)%.B!296%R(&)R86ME(&QI;F4@`'```0```!\```!213H@4F5A``@0`0```&4```!#04Y)5$)%4D]55$5$5$A2
M3U5'2$]204Q/3D=42$535TE.1T%233]/2RQ)1U5%4U-42$5204-%4E-/5514
M2$5215=/54Q$2TY/5U=(15)%5$]23U54151(14)204M%3$E.15-)``````(!
M"1`!````>P,``'<#``"A!0``3%I&=9+3DQ'_``H!#P(5`J@%ZP*#`%`"\@D"
M`&-H"L!S970R-P8`!L,"@S(#Q0(`<')"<1'BHQ,C@*(QOQ#P*`"H$-L0M@;F$@$8`L42A@
M(!%QU23Q=0L1+B5@5Q&`!4"S"L`B\&UY(_`%,&D"(/\$(`(0!<`ITPJ%*C($
M(`!P)2-@:"AQ;741<"!DORD0))$NP`6@$\`E44$PT?A*2T0OS12
M-`<\P22:+U,$8'4",+@4@+2\`*7HQ`$@!*0'?/$!`\LTR221(<&X70O1$48+;,]"H5#&-$BL5I$5J%G;PL'D2D!10408R!$>?YE
M2F$Q`"S!!"`QD"I17)/31Z,)T2!(*^,H*I$*0/=2@"1A/7%E0D`V,S.`*%/?
M/,`EH$IT+2$8T'`8<2-16Q[A4S%M!"!=P'1;9D)Y!1!G9Q,@()\?&A?Q``%G
M```#`!`0`0````,`$1``````0``',(#R;@6-CKH!0``(,(#R;@6-CKH!'@`]
3``$````%````4D4Z(`````#Q;P`'
`
end
#


------------------------------

From eric@seattle.avcom.com Fri Sep 29 11:02 PDT 1995

There are a few ways to route the rear brake line.
The fix I used on the race bikes with a single
aluminum brace bolted to the stock chain guard
holes works, but is not the prettiest solution.

You can drill a hole in the top of the swingarm,
being careful to deburr the edges, and use the
stock casting impression on the inside of the
swingarm, forward of the tire to exit.  Then run
the brake hose right to the master cylinder.

This fix is trick looking and practical, but 
requires the removal of the swingarm, patience,
and attention to detail.  Not the fix you're likely
to use at 1am the morning before a race. 

See ya on the roads, Bronze!

Eric



------------------------------

From chrisw@usa.pipeline.com Fri Sep 29 12:40 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Electric riding gear on Hawks

Thanks David for posting my earlier reply. I meant to send it to the  
group but didn't. 
 
I've got the vest with the collar, though I kinda wish I'd gotten the  
one without it. In my size (small) the collar gets restrictive when you  
turn your head. Almost like wearing a neck brace. But it is definitely  
cozy warm. This might not be a factor in a larger size.  
 
I agree with Dave (GTRider) about the thermostat, if it's cold enough  
to wear the vest, you'll probably want it on. Then again, you'll never  
catch me complaining about being too warm.  
 
And one last word about cold-weather gear, for anyone considering going  
electric, start with the gloves. They are amazing. I've always been  
able to put enough layers on to keep my body warm, but my hands always  
froze. At every traffic light you could see me leaning down to warm my  
hands on the engine. Now I can hop off the bike, take the gloves off  
and actually use a keyboard without first having to thaw out my fingers! 
Adding the vest just means that I don't look like the Michelin Man  
on a motorcycle.  
 
-- 
 
ChrisW 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


------------------------------

From AGault@aol.com Fri Sep 29 20:25 PDT 1995
Subject: valve seats

i am the quy with a ticking front end that was going into the shop.  well
they couldnt fix it.  i had a friend that i was talking to this night and he
said that it sounded like a valve seat that is coming out any thoughts on the
subject???


------------------------------

From GTRider9@aol.com Fri Sep 29 21:29 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .

In a message dated 95-09-29 02:15:02 EDT, tbrking@netvoyage.net (Craig Erion)
writes:

>>Will these pistons fit in an Africa Twin motor?  I.e., are they cast in
such
>>a way that their skirts can be trimmed to clear the A.T. crank?
>>
>>I would sure like to know!
>
>Well then you got it. The 82mm pistons fit in and net a 1mm overbore from
>stock Queenie size.
>
Thanks for taking the time to answer my question--I really appreciate it.
 Now I just need to order a set of pistons and a set of rods; of course, that
leads to another question:  Disregarding cost, which would be better to use
in a high-performance street bike, forged steel or titanium?  Your opinion?

Live long and prosper!
Dave


------------------------------

From GTRider9@aol.com Fri Sep 29 21:32 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Tank bag suggestions

In a message dated 95-09-29 10:40:20 EDT, creek@ascc01.ascc.att.com (Tobin M.
Creek - ATT ASCC) writes:

>FWIW, I tossed the around-the-steering-head harness that Marsee and most
>other bags use.  I went to REI and got some nylon strapping and set up
>two separate straps for the front that go around the box frame and rest 
>against the rubber pads on the bottom of the tank.  Works like a charm.
>No more bag on the arm in the corners.

That sounds like a good idea--think I'll try that myself.  Thanks for the
tip!

Dave


------------------------------

From GTRider9@aol.com Fri Sep 29 21:46 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: valve seats

In a message dated 95-09-29 23:51:45 EDT, AGault@aol.com writes:

>i am the quy with a ticking front end that was going into the shop.  well
>they couldnt fix it.  i had a friend that i was talking to this night and he
>said that it sounded like a valve seat that is coming out any thoughts on
the
>subject???

I'd be surprised if that's the problem, (A) because the Hawk's valve seats
are pretty securely cast into the head, and (B) because usually when you drop
a valve seat, you don't get little noises, you get BIG noises.

I can't remember ever seeing a dropped seat in a Japanese bike motor in over
20 years of being around them.  It might be a problem in the valve train, but
I doubt that it's a loose seat.


------------------------------

From GTRider9@aol.com Fri Sep 29 22:04 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .

In a message dated 95-09-29 12:44:27 EDT, ddc10@columbia.edu (Dennis Daniel
Crowley) writes:

>> Jeez, you guys are taking this a little far aren't you?  I think I'll just
>go
>> back to work on my Vmax/Hawk GT project.  
>
>Hmmm . . . would that be a Vmax motor in a Hawk frame, or a Hawk motor in 
>a Vmax frame?  Either way, I dunno . . .

Actually, both--the Vmax motor in the Hawk frame (provided I can figure out
how to route the blower belt around the frame rail) and TWO Hawk motors in
the Vmax.  I think they are equally feasible...

Dave

MORE POWER!!


------------------------------

From Steve@hawk.dungeon.com Sat Sep 30 00:41 PDT 1995
Subject: UK Club

If there are any other Hawk or Bros owners out there living in the UK that
would be interested in starting up a UK owners club please e-mail me and
let me know.  Also please let me know if you would be willing to help in
organizing the club.
________________________________________________________________
*      Steve Beatty           \X/         __///AMIGA           *
* steve@hawk.dungeon.com      O O         \XX/ A1200           *
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~oO~( )~Oo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~





------------------------------

From greaney@ee.unr.edu Sat Sep 30 01:36 PDT 1995
Subject: Clutch Cable Woes...


Hi all:

Rmember wayyyyy back when, I installed a set of F2 clipons onto my
Hawk?  Well, at the time, the guy I bought them from said an F2
clutch cable would work well, seeing as there is a good height 
difference in the bars, and hence a length difference in the required
vs. stock lengths of a clutch cable.

Well, my stock Hawk cable finally got really nasty , so I ran out and ordered
an F2 cable.  Whoops. =(

It doesn't work.   At least, not with the stock setup down there.  I
_think_ I can modify the stay assembly (the part that holds the solid
part of the cable near the clutch actuator on the engine for support)
so that it will accept the F2 cable.  (The F2 cable HOUSING is exactly
the same length as the Hawk HOUSING, but the F2 CABLE itself is about
2 inches shorter than is the Hawk CABLE.  Hence, the F2 cable will
not reach the Hawk's clutch when using the stock mounting scheme).

Now, it's 1:30 in the morning, so if this all seems like gibberish,
don't try digging out your nearest copy of UUDecode: I'm kinda
out of it.  I'll post a report tomorrow when the grinding and bending
gets done.  I hope I can salvage this, since my cable is totally 
hosed, and the F2 cable cost me >$20.

Any words of wisdom before I embarass myself would be appreciated......

Thanks,

Mike

PS - Hope to meet everyone at Hugh's Shindig this next Friday (the 13th).
Sounds like very much fun.  BTW - I'll definitely be in the cage, since
it's been near freezing at nite here lately, and over the mountains,
HA!, somewhere near 15 or 20F.  Turns the urine solid, matey, esp. when
riding 4+ hours from Reno to SF. =)    =)  HEATER!!!!!  =)  =)  CD PLAYER!!!!


------------------------------

From doneill@pioneer.uspto.gov Sat Sep 30 04:10 PDT 1995


Where's the best place to get an F2 front end for my red '90 Hawk?  
Junkyards, racetracks, THE DEALER?

Dave
'93 ZX11D
'90 NT650 Hawk
'80 GS450E 




------------------------------

From RGGAMMA@aol.com Sat Sep 30 04:25 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Tank bag suggestions

Adam,

I was in error when I said Boulder Wolfman Products ......It is actually
Nederland CO.  303-258-9321. fax  or 7290 voice.  Best quality gear I have
ever used.  The red matches the hawk paint perfect. The magnetic bag does not
shift around and makes refueling a snap.

Cheers

Randy


------------------------------

From 102136.3317@compuserve.com Sat Sep 30 05:44 PDT 1995
Subject: re:  Front ends

Dave:

In decending order of preference:

1)  Dealer.  Not unless you want to put all his children through college.  I
venture to say retail on a complete new front end would cost more than your bike
is worth.

2)  Junkyards.  Commercial "breakers" charge 50 cents on the suggested retail
dollar for parts.  I recently bought a Hawk front end for my Ascot race bike.
Breakers like to sell things piece by piece (ie:  75 each for each fork leg, 75
each for each brake disc, etc.)  It really starts to add up.

3)  Private sellers/racers.  My choice.  I got my Hawk front end from a racer
who replaced his with an F2 front end (By the way, I paid $450 for my complete
front end, from wheel to brake lever, and it was in perfect shape.  You may be
able to sell yours to help finance your F2 swap, but there's not a huge demand
for Hawk front ends.)  Look through Cycle News and Road Racing World for private
sellers.  If you race or go to races, put up a few signs.  Post notes on
Internet and CompuServe (that's how I got hooked up with mine.)  Going price
seems to be about $500 to $750 for complete F2 front ends, with the '94s on the
high end of the scale.

Brian Summers, who I bought my Hawk front end from, also had an F2 front end at
the time.  You could e-mail him at: bsummers@spaceworks.com.

Good luck.


Mark
WERA, AHRMA  #147



------------------------------

From Steve@hawk.dungeon.com Sat Sep 30 09:15 PDT 1995
Subject: CBR Frontend Questions

     Well I decided to go for it and do the CBR 600 treatment to my '89
Hawk.  I went to the breakers today and picked up a British spec '93 CBR
forks w/ preload and rebound adjustments, calipers, spindle with speedo
drive and master cylinder.  I still need a wheel, brake lines, discs, and
fender, oh ya and tires.
     Anyway my first question has to do with the CBR
master cylinder...obviously it has no mounting point for a mirror - where
has everyone been putting their mirrors?  I am not too keen on bar end
mirrors.  Did I even need to pick up the CBR master cylinder, or could I
have used the Hawks?  I figured that the valving may have been different
due to twin calipers.
     My second question is more of an opinion I guess but what is the hot
choice for tires with this setup?  I use my bike mostly for sport riding
and do occasionally take it to the track.  I want to take full advantage of
the wider wheel.  I had been running K591 SP (R) 110/80VB17 and 170/60VB17s
and was pretty pleased with them.
     As far as the rest, I will try and pick up a CBR wheel next week.  I
am contemplating going with Brembo discs and pads and of course braided
lines.
     Any helpful sugestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

     Steve




------------------------------

From DFJL@aol.com Sat Sep 30 14:36 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: CBR Frontend Questions

Steve ? Steve ? Is that you ?

I have a Feb. 1993 issue of Performance Bikes, showing a red '89 w/ TBR
clip-ons,  D&D pipe, DJ kit.  Looks nice - tank bra, blacked-out wheels,
stock seat. 

I thought I recognized the name, so I dug out the back issues.

Don't tell me it's not you.

I didn't get the previous month's issue with a 'Hawk test', was it worth
clipping ?

Dave         DFJL@aol.com    ( Connecticut )


------------------------------

From jamesm@calweb.com Sat Sep 30 18:24 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: CBR Frontend Questions

On Sat, 30 Sep 1995, Steve Beatty wrote:
>      Anyway my first question has to do with the CBR
> master cylinder...obviously it has no mounting point for a mirror - where
> has everyone been putting their mirrors?  I am not too keen on bar end
> mirrors.  

Sorry, I went to bar-ends.  You could just get away with a single left-hand
mirror...

>      My second question is more of an opinion I guess but what is the hot
> choice for tires with this setup?  I use my bike mostly for sport riding
> and do occasionally take it to the track.  I want to take full advantage of

Michelin A59x/M59x (OEM on '91-'93 F2s) or Bridgestone BT-50s (OEM on
'94-96 F2/F3s). 120/16 front, 160/60 rear. 

>      As far as the rest, I will try and pick up a CBR wheel next week.  I
> am contemplating going with Brembo discs and pads and of course braided
> lines.

Unless the Brembo discs are cheaper, you might want to find some used
F2 rotors.  They're more than adequate. 

-----
james montebello - owner of the 2nd messiest garage in sacramento, california



------------------------------

From tbrking@twobros.com Sat Sep 30 22:03 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Hey.

>Just how much better will a pipe alone, (or a pipe with jetting), make my
>stock hawk.
>Is it worth the cash.  The cash that I don't really have!
>
>Duke

1 TBR pipe + 1 Factory jet kit = 10/12 rear wheel hp.




------------------------------

From tbrking@twobros.com Sat Sep 30 22:03 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Brake drag

James, the centerstand has to go with our exhaust system. It's not so bad
though when you consider the ground clearance you gain.... and we sell rear
service stands. 


   Craig




------------------------------

From tbrking@twobros.com Sat Sep 30 22:04 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Source for new brake lines

>In the interest of bigger stoppies, I'm looking for a good place to get a
>braided stainless (or Kevlar, which is better?) front brake line.  Are their
>any gotchas like dimensions and stuff that I need to know?
>
>Thanks!

Two Brothers Racing has it all. Plug-plug. 714.550.6070




------------------------------

From cscops2@cscops2.Ebay.Sun.COM Sat Sep 30 22:54 PDT 1995
Subject: Carb Epoxying???



Hey guys, 

    Someone mentioned having asked a successful hawk racer (Kiyo Watanabe I think) 
  what he considered to be the most effective mod available to hawksters. The answer
  was epoxying(sp?) the carbs. What exactly is this? What are the benefits? What is
  the cost? What are the drawbacks if any? 

Kev-


BTW: If anyone is interested, there is a 1988 blue Hawk in really nice condition
     here in San Diego. about 9400 on the clock. call Brattin BMW @ 619-286-1971,
     or e-mail them at Brattinbmw@aol.com for details.


------------------------------

From nightfall.com!sheldon@netbistro.com Sat Oct  7 17:23 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Yet another parts bike . . .


On Sat, 30 Sep 1995 GTRider9@aol.com wrote:

> Thanks for taking the time to answer my question--I really appreciate it.
>  Now I just need to order a set of pistons and a set of rods; of course, that
> leads to another question:  Disregarding cost, which would be better to use
> in a high-performance street bike, forged steel or titanium?  Your opinion?

Titanium, without much of a doubt.  It is very much lighter, and in a 
performance bike weight is everything.  



------------------------------

From scutchin@vt.edu Mon Oct 23 15:33 PDT 1995
Subject: rear line diagram!!!!!


--=====================_811885428==_
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I haven't forgotten, I swear.  It's just that I had a REALLY bad weekend.  I 
wont't go into the details but it involved sending someone to jail.  I 
underline REALLY!!!

I hope this works.  If you have any questions gimme a ring.

Steve '89 700cc


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--=====================_811885428==_--



------------------------------

From daemon Tue Oct 31 14:09 PST 1995
Subject: scanned stuff

I hope the people who asked for the scanned image of the rear brake line 
routing put it to good use.  I am VERY happy I did the mod.  I also have a 
diagram of the cam chain tensioner modification but will only send it to 
those of you who ask for it.  I got it faxed from Chafong like a year 
ago-still haven't done the mod myself!!   Anyway, if anyone really wants it 
gimme an e-mail and I'll see what I can do.  Apparently, at very high revs, 
if the throttle is slammed shut the cam chain can slip a tooth and - let's 
just say that's a bad thing!!  It involves removing a bolt from the clutch 
cover, drilling it out, retapping it, and putting in a longer bolt.  It's 
the top middle bolt.  

Gimme a ring if you want the diagram

Steve '89 700cc










------------------------------

From daemon Sun Nov 12 21:00 PST 1995
Subject: Re: Rear Line Length

>Hey - 
>
>Just got a hold of some Earl's line and fittings.  Before I get started, can
>anyone tell me what length to cut it for the 'thru swingarm' setup ?  Also,
>any advice about a grommet - should I use a standard rubber deal, or a
>star-cut plastic thingie?  I don't know how thick the cast wall is.

 I didn't put a grommet on at all.  The kit did not include one and it did 
not mention using one so I am under the assumption that one is not needed.  
I think a grommet may impede the line moving in and out of the swingarm with 
suspension action.  Of course this is a guess.  By the way, I actually like 
the look of not having a grommet now.  The silver line and silver swingarm 
just seem to flow together.  Artsy, very artsy!!


Steve '89 700cc










------------------------------

From daemon Mon Nov 13 21:01 PST 1995
Subject: Hawk 700

>Date: Mon, 13 Nov 1995 9:02:11 -0600 (CST)
>From: ROBERT 
>To: scutchin@vt.edu
>CC: MCBRIEN@UHPHYS.PHYS.UH.EDU
>Subject: Hawk 700
>
>Hi Steve,
>
>I have been wanting to put 700cc pistons in my hawk for some time, but I've 
>been worried about the negative side effects of the very high compression (
>detonation, vibration, starting, and things I haven't even thought off.)  
>I'm afraid I would get a bad tank of gas and not be able to hear the 
>detonation through my earplugs and destroy the engine.  
>I would very much like to hear your views and experiences concerning this 
>mod.
>
>Robert  (mcbrien@uhphys.phys.uh.edu)
>










------------------------------

From daemon Wed Nov 15 17:00 PST 1995
Subject: Re: "stage 1" mods

>Hi all,
>
>I would like to make what I would consider to be "stage 1" type mods 
>to our newly aquired hawk this winter.  Can someone give me a rough 
>idea what i'll have to spend for a Super Trapp exhaust setup?  Are 
>there any downsides (other than some noise), centerstand?
>
The Supertrapp Superlite Stainless costs if I remember correctly about $360, 
and I am purdy sure it retains the centerstand.

>What is the most economical way to upgrade suspension?  Costs for the 
>Lindeman (sp?) re-work, rear?
>
Progressive suspension springs (about $50) and 10weight up front.  If you 
don't mind a jacked up butt a CBR900RR shock in the rear - going rate is 
about $125 used.


Steve '89 700cc










------------------------------

From daemon Wed Nov 15 17:00 PST 1995
Subject: Re: RealRiders (tm)

>
>OK, since the volume of mail has dropped substantially from this list 
>over the past week or so, I thought it was time to start the good old 
>fashioned "how many miles have you put on your Hawk" annual thread to 
>wake all of you up.
>
>Soooooo, how many?  How long?
>
>Me:  21,000+ miles
>     < 2.5 years
>     only ridden March-November (snows in Reno.  well, sometimes)
>     STOCK SEAT    (real men don't buy Corbins =)
>

17,050 miles, bought brand new (for $3200!!!) with 16 miles on in April '92.
Stock seat doesn't bother me a bit but never ride for more than about two 
hours at a time.  Ride whenever possible, though admittadly not that much 
this summer.  Is snowing right now.  

I hate snow.


Steve '89 700cc










------------------------------

From daemon Wed Nov 15 17:00 PST 1995
Subject: Re: Hawk gears, rear line

>A few days ago I posted a question about the length of the rear
>line-thru-swingarm.  Does anyone know what length the Earl's line should be (
>either the cut lenght or the center-to-center of the banjo fittings) ?
>
>Also, does anyone know what the actual gear ratios are of the TBR/MVR/Chafong
>3rd,4th,5th tranny change are?

I too would LOVE to know what parts they use.  They are OEM Honda parts from 
other bikes that they package and resell.  If anyone out there has part 
numbers we'd all be VERY happy.
>
>I guess we give up top speed for versatility ?
>
>Can this - no, should thismod be used along with a final drive change of,
>say, 43t rear instead of stock 44t ?
>
When I did the 520 conversion I went with a 42 tooth rear sprocket, not for 
more top speed but so I didn't have to shift as much to keep the bike in the 
powerband.  The 700cc pistons seem to really kick in after about 5or so 
thousand, below that I'm just kinda waiting for something to happen.


Steve '89 700cc










------------------------------

From daemon Wed Nov 15 17:01 PST 1995
Subject: Daytona

Wake up ladies and germs, Daytona is only four glorious months away!!  Is 
anyone going??  I am leaving Virginia Thursday evening the week of bike week 
and leaving Sunday after the 200 miler for Panama City.  I would love to see 
a gang-o'-Hawks cruise the strip!!  Since I be a typical poor college 
stewdent I am going to stay at whichever rat trap has the lowest price.  The 
Hawk will be in the back of my truck along with a buddies '73 CB350.  Six of 
us should be going, four with bikes (two are '73 CB350's)  Two other's may 
go - both with GOOF2's.
If you have never been to Bike Week you just gotta go!!!  No, it's not only 
a Harleyfest although they are the mount of choice.  And you cannot miss the 
200 - ask yourself, where else can you watch Scott Russell kick Fogarty's 
and everyones elses ass up close and in person?!

Steve '89 700cc


 BTW, Don't forget to keep your fingers crossed, hopefully we'll see Scott 
on one of those beautiful new GSXR's this year!!










------------------------------

From daemon Tue Nov 21 21:00 PST 1995
Subject: Re: rear brake internal routing question

>I am going to route the rear brake line through the swingarm, and have a
>question.  I know exactly where to drill hole and everything, but, I don't
>know how large the hole should be (the hole i will drill by the caliper).  Is
>it just big enough for the banjo, or larger, or what?  any suggestions would
>be apreciated
>
The hole is supposed to be 10mm, I used a 25/64" drill bit (9.94mm)  This is 
a little larger than the line.  WHOA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  The banjo???  DO NOT 
DRILL A HOLE IN YOUR SWINGARM THAT IS LARGE ENOUGH FOR YOUR BANJO!!!  You 
need to use Earl's Speed-Seal removable fittings.  I won't even try to 
speculate how your swingarms integrity would be affected if you drilled a 
hole large enough for a banjo?!?!  Something tells me you have stock 
lines...buy a through-the-line kit from TBR or Chafong (1-800-CHAFONG) they 
cost about $55 for SS braided lines and red and blue anodized REMOVABLE 
fittings.


Steve '89 700cc

I did mine a few weeks ago, looks absolutely fantastic. 










------------------------------

From daemon Tue Nov 28 01:00 PST 1995
Subject: Re: top end power

>   Hey Steve,
>
>  I'd go with porting and cams at the same time. I think the X8 cams are the 
>best. I run mine with the stock springs but with the stock CDI, the R&D 
springs 
>megacycle sells seem to break. 
>
>     Gumby
>
>
Intake or exhaust or both?  How much?  Who does it?  Do you run a 4degree 
advancer?  Is 4 too much?  I heard that th stock springs were plenty strong. 
 Where does the X8 fall in respect to the 173Xwhatervers and 174Xwhatevers?  
I ride on the road and an idle would be kinda nice, although I WILL race 
this summer (I turn 30 and owe it to myself!!!!)

Thanks,

Steve










------------------------------

From daemon Tue Nov 28 01:00 PST 1995
Subject: Re: top end power

>Sounds like you've got the motor pretty built. I would suggest you get the
>bike on a Dyno. This will not only get your jetting sorted out, but will
>give you an accurate baseline for future engine mods. If you go this route
>make sure that the bike is in a sharp state of tune BEFORE the dyno run. I
>know this sounds obvious but quite a few tuners will let a poorly tuned
>bike do the baseline Dyno runs, give it a basic tune and beat their chests
>about the HP gains.
>
>What have you done for suspension, braking mods. Just curious.
>
>Thanks Joe
>
>
>
I run Progressive springs with 10W oil up front and a CBR900 rear shock.  
Stainless lines front and rear with SBS pads now (I am going back to factory 
pads after these wear or before I get on a track.)  I lowered the front a 
bit to fit the clip-ons and the bike seems to handle a bit better because of 
it.  My next tires will be MEZ1's, which should be MUCH better than the 89X 
sliders I have now.

Steve










------------------------------

End of Hotrod Digest Tue Jan 23 10:28:49 PST 1996