From: hotrod@dsea.com
To: Hotrod_Digest_Users
Apparently-To: Hotrod_Digest_Users
Date: Tue Jan 23 10:14:27 PST 1996
Reply-To: hotrod@dsea.com
Subject: Hotrod Digest

Hotrod Digest Tue Jan 23 10:14:27 PST 1996

Todays Topics:

Subject: Leaks
Subject: Re: Leaks
Subject: The Road Beckons
Subject: the gods must be crazy
Subject: Re: the gods must be crazy
Subject: the gods must be crazy
Subject: RE: the gods must be crazy
Subject: Hawk stuff...
Subject: Re: the gods must be crazy
Subject: Re: The Road Beckons
Subject: Re: the gods must be crazy
Subject: Re: Hawk stuff...
Subject: hawkgt
Subject: Re: Hawk stuff...
Subject: RE: Hawk stuff...
Subject: Re: Doc Wong
Subject: Re: Hawk stuff...Lions and Pipes and Bars
Subject: Re: Hawk stuff...
Subject: Re: Hawk stuff...
Subject: Re: Hawk stuff...pipes
Subject: Tail section WTD
Subject: Re: Tail section WTD
Subject: Re: the gods must be crazy
Subject: Re: Tail section WTD
Subject: Re: Hawk stuff...pipes
Subject: Who's who.
Subject: RE: Hawk stuff...
Subject: Re: Tail section WTD
Subject: Re: Who's who.
Subject: Re: Who's who.
Subject: Re: Who's who.
Subject: Re: Tail section WTD
Subject: Re: Who's who.
Subject: RE: Hawk stuff...
Subject: Re: the gods must be crazy
Subject: the chase--the pith if you will
Subject: chain&shprockets
Subject: jetting recommendations
Subject: Driveline Lash
Subject: jetting recommendations
Subject: Re: jetting recommendations
Subject: cush drive--redux
Subject: Re: Driveline Lash
Subject: Re: cush drive--redux
Subject: Re: Driveline Lash
Subject: TBR Hawk exhaust
Subject: Doc Wong Ride
Subject: Re: the gods must be crazy
Subject: Re: Doc Wong Ride
Subject: Re:  cush drive--redux
Subject: Re: Doc Wong Ride
Subject: Re: Doc Wong Ride
Subject: Ride
Subject: fast hawk
Subject: Re: Doc Wong Ride
Subject: Re: Exhaust
Subject: Head work for Hawks
Subject: Schwantz retires, Russell moves up!
Subject: DocWong's this weekend (a wrap up) (fwd)
Subject: DocWong's this weekend (a wrap up)
Subject: Re: Head work for Hawks
Subject: More info on the FRAM PH6017 recall
Subject: Re: Head work for Hawks
Subject: Re: Head work for Hawks
Subject: help, please
Subject: Re: help, please
Subject: need a used side-stand
Subject: Returned mail: warning: cannot send message for 4 hours
Subject: Returned mail: warning: cannot send message for 4 hours
Subject: Re: Head work for Hawks
Subject: Re: Doc Wong Ride
Subject: Re: Head work for Hawks
Subject: KERKER WHITE TIP
Subject: Group ride?
Subject: New TBR pipe
Subject: Re[2]: Doc Wong Ride
Subject: Hallett Speedway
Subject: Re: Doc Wong Ride
Subject: It had to happen eventually...Accident Report
Subject: Re: Doc Wong Ride
Subject: Re: Group ride?
Subject: Re: Doc Wong Ride
Subject: Re: New TBR pipe
Subject: Re: KERKER WHITE TIP
Subject: Re: Head work for Hawks
Subject: Re: It had to happen eventually...Accident Report
Subject: WTB: used side-stand for Hawk
Subject: parts...
Subject: Next Doc Wong ride!!
Subject: Re: Group ride?
Subject: Re: Doc Wong Ride
Subject: Re: Next Doc Wong ride!!
Subject: Re: It had to happen eventually...Accident Report
Subject: Re: Head work for Hawks
Subject: Re: Group ride?
Subject: playing around
Subject: Re: Head work for Hawks
Subject: Re: Head work for Hawks
Subject: Re: Head work for Hawks
Subject: Re: Group ride?
Subject: Re: playing around
Subject: Re: playing around (fwd)
Subject: Re: playing around (fwd)
Subject: Re: playing around (fwd)
Subject: Re: Group ride?
Subject: Request to be on mailing list
Subject: Re: KERKER WHITE TIP
Subject: Re: Head work for Hawks
Subject: Re: Group ride?
Subject: Re: WTB: used side-stand for ...
Subject: rear sprocket
Subject: Re: playing around (fwd)
Subject: Flat Spots
Subject: Re: rear sprocket
Subject: Re: rear sprocket
Subject: Boot recommendation
Subject: Re: rear sprocket
Subject: Re: Boot recommendation (NOISE)
Subject: BIKES RULE
Subject: Re:  Boot recommendation
Subject: Re: Boot recommendation
Subject: Re: rear sprocket
Subject: Re: playing around (fwd)
Subject: 520 chain conversion info
Subject: Re: No Subject
Subject: Re: 520 chain conversion info
Subject: Re: rear sprocket
Subject: Re[2]: rear sprocket
Subject: help
Subject: Fwd: help
Subject: mike v's address
Subject: Re: 520 chain conversion info
Subject: Re: Boot recommendation
Subject: Re: BIKES RULE
Subject: Re: 520 chain conversion info
Subject: Re: Fwd: help
Subject: Carbs
Subject: Re: rear sprocket
Subject: Re: KERKER WHITE TIP
Subject: Re: Boot recommendation
Subject: Re: playing around (fwd)
Subject: Re: 520 chain conversion info
Subject: Re: Boot recommendation (NOISE)
Subject: Re: Boot recommendation
Subject: Re: KERKER WHITE TIP (fwd)
Subject: Re: 520 chain conversion info
Subject: Re: Boot recommendation
Subject: Carb-Blow Apart (drawing!)
Subject: Got me a Hawk!
Subject: Problems with hawkGT mailing list
Subject: Got me a Hawk! (fwd)
Subject: Re: Carbs
Subject: Where is the Web page?
Subject: Carburator Cleaner
Subject: Re: 520 chain conversion info
Subject: Re: Carburator Cleaner
Subject: undeliverable mail (fwd)
Subject: Master cylinders
Subject: Homebrew
Subject: Re: Carburator Cleaner
Subject: Re: Master cylinders
Subject: Re: Head work for Hawks
Subject: Where is the Web page?
Subject: Re: Master cylinders
Subject:       unsubscibe
Subject: Hawk Specs
Subject: Re: Hawk Specs
Subject: Re: Hawk Specs
Subject: Re: Hawk Specs
Subject: a conversation with Mike Velasco...
Subject: Re: Carburator Cleaner
Subject: Re: Carburator Cleaner
Subject: Re: Carburator Cleaner (fwd)
Subject: Re: a conversation with Mike Velasco...
Subject: Re[2]: a conversation with Mike Velasco...
Subject: Re: Homebrew
Subject: Re: a conversation with Mike Velasco...
Subject: Re: a conversation with Mike Velasco.
Subject: Re: a conversation with Mike ...
Subject: Stoppies
Subject: Re[2]: a conversation with Mike Velasco...
Subject: Re: a conversation with Mike Velasco...
Subject: Re: a conversation with Mike ...
Subject: Velasco's phone number
Subject: boots
Subject: Tire question
Subject: Re: a conversation with Mike Velasco.
Subject: Re: a conversation with Mike Velasco.
Subject: Re: Stoppies
Subject: Fwd: Need Info
Subject: RE: Synthetics/Valves...
Subject: guinea pig
Subject: Re: 
Subject: Re: Tire question
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable
Subject: High-mileage Hawk
Subject: Re: Tire question
Subject: One Brother Racing
Subject: SOUNDS LIKE MONEY
Subject: Re: SOUNDS LIKE MONEY
Subject: Re: SOUNDS LIKE MONEY
Subject: Rainsuit
Subject: Hawk GT Mailing List Subscription
Subject: Re: Rainsuit
Subject: Re: guinea pig
Subject: HawkWorks
Subject: RE: Tire question
Subject: Re: HawkWorks
Subject: Re: a conversation with Mike Velasco.
Subject: Re: SOUNDS LIKE MONEY
Subject: Bump starting (bad?)
Subject: RE: One Brother Racing
Subject: Re: a conversation with Mike Velasco.
Subject: Re: Bump Starting
Subject: Re: Bump starting (bad?)
Subject: Hello Mr. rock...
Subject: RE: A conversation with Mike V.
Subject: Re: A conversation with Mike V.
Subject: Re: a conversation with Mike Velasco.
Subject: Re: Hello Mr. rock...
Subject: RE: A conversation with Mike V.
Subject: RE: One Brother Racing
Subject: TBR pipe
Subject: RE: Bump starting (bad?)
Subject: Stock Exhaust System FS Complete $50
Subject: Re: TBR pipe
Subject: RE: Bump starting (bad?)
Subject: Re: TBR pipe
Subject: TBR price
Subject: RE: Bump starting (bad?)
Subject: Re: High-mileage Hawk
Subject: RE: A conversation with Mike V.
Subject: RE: One Brother Racing
Subject: Dyno
Subject: Re: TBR pipe
Subject: hawkworks, Sam's club #?
Subject: Re: Dyno
Subject: Re: HawkWorks
Subject: RE: One Brother Racing
Subject: valve tapping?
Subject: Re: SOUNDS LIKE MONEY
Subject: RE: valve tapping?
Subject: Re: SOUNDS LIKE MONEY
Subject: Ooooooh, my sunburn . . . ;)
Subject: AFM races, TBR pipe %age
Subject: My Hawk Wet Its Pants
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable
Subject: Re: Jets, airbox, etc.
Subject: Re: My Hawk Wet Its Pants
Subject: Re: Ooooooh, my sunburn . . . ;)
Subject: Re: Ooooooh, my sunburn . . . ;)
Subject: Re: Ooooooh, my sunburn . . . ;)
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable
Subject: Re: more pipe ideas
Subject: re:Re: more pipe ideas
Subject: Re: Ooooooh, my sunburn . . . ;)
Subject: Pipes (again???)
Subject: Re[2]: Next Dr. Wong Clinic 7/16
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Next Dr. Wong Clinic 7/16
Subject: (fwd) FS: F2 race suspension
Subject: Re: Pipes (again???)
Subject: Throttle hand pain.
Subject: Fwd: *******Virus Alert*********
Subject: hmmmm
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable
Subject: Re: hmmmm
Subject: Re: hmmmm
Subject: Re: hmmmm
Subject: RE: Throttle hand pain.
Subject: RE: Throttle hand pain.
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable
Subject: new tire testin'
Subject: unsuscribe
Subject: Engine Life 
Subject: Re: Engine Life
Subject: Re: Engine Life 
Subject: Subscription
Subject: Mailing List
Subject: Re: SOUNDS LIKE MONEY
Subject: Newsletter?
Subject: spec II
Subject: web page
Subject: Exhaust removal question
Subject: Newsletter? (fwd)
Subject: Subscription Information
Subject: More on Jet Kits, Dyno Runs, etc.
Subject: Re: Newsletter? (fwd)
Subject: Re: Newsletter? (fwd)
Subject: Re: More on Jet Kits, Dyno Ru...
Subject: Tire plugs...
Subject: http://mom.isc-br.com/WL/mmlo.txt
Subject: Re: My Hawk Wet Its Pants
Subject: Thanks
Subject: Foot pegs
Subject: Re: Foot pegs
Subject: Re[2]: My Hawk Wet Its Pants
Subject: WWW 800 directory
Subject: Re: Foot pegs
Subject: Re: My Hawk Wet Its Pants
Subject: Temperature/fans
Subject: Web Page Unreliability
Subject: Re: Re[2]: My Hawk Wet Its Pants
Subject: Re: Foot pegs
Subject: Re: Foot pegs
Subject: Returned mail: Insufficient permission
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable
Subject: Returned mail: Remote protocol error
Subject: Track Day ranting
Subject: Homemade Rear Sets, was Re: Foot pegs
Subject: Re: Track Day ranting
Subject: Lindeman
Subject: Re: Lindeman
Subject: rear shock
Subject:  Fuel Shutoff.
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable
Subject: Returned mail: Insufficient permission
Subject: Re: rear shock
Subject: Fwd: Returned Mail: Undeliver...

Administriva:

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From Victor.A.King@dartvax.dartmouth.edu Thu Jun  1 08:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Leaks

Hey all,

Before i have time to take things apart to try to find out what's going on, i
want to ask if anyone else has had this stuff happen:

I've noticed (it's hard not to) that when im riding hard and then come in for a
really hard stop-- in fact it only happens when i do a stoppie-- a significant
amt of gasoline pours out from under the tank where the fuel hose pass over the
center bolt that holds the top of the rear shock in place.  This is of course
disconcerting, because it runs down the right side of the frame and over the
hot exhaust pipe before making a little puddle on the ground.

when this has happened, i have noticed a drip coming from a splice in the hose,
so i assumed that was the source of the leak.  But it the strange thing (to me)
is that it doesn't leak all the time, slowly or constantly, but instead pours
out when i do a stoppie.  I am thinking this may mean it is coming from
somewhere other than the splice in the hose.  Any ideas?

I want to take care of this before i have a flame broiled hawk on my hands.
Thanks.
S
88 bleu


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Thu Jun  1 10:06 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Leaks

> is that it doesn't leak all the time, slowly or constantly, but instead pours
> out when i do a stoppie.  I am thinking this may mean it is coming from
> somewhere other than the splice in the hose.  Any ideas?
> 
> I want to take care of this before i have a flame broiled hawk on my hands.
> Thanks.
> S

Uhoh.  You're leaking out of one of a few things:

1) Fuel filter.  I doubt it though, since it's under pressure from
the fuel pump (2) and would leak all the time if it really wanted
to.

2) Fuel pump.  They're costly, and most likely not the cause of the
problem.

3) Breather Hose***.  This is most likely the problem.  Check its
routing: should be down the center of the bike and off the the LEFT
of the bike, on the shifter side.  Mine leaks when I overfill it.
It should NOT leak when properly sealed and the filler cap is securely
in place, tho.  

Check the hose first, it's most likely the cheapest and most likey
the cause.


Mike

--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From AFKJV@acad2.alaska.edu Thu Jun  1 10:36 PDT 1995
Subject: The Road Beckons

Cynthia:

Since we have traveled from Alaska to the Canadian Maritimes 3 times
previously, this year's route will likely be a combination of
familiar & unfamiliar roads.

We'll ride to Haines, Alaska & pick up the ferry to Prince Rupert,
B.C. From there, Hwy. 16 to Jasper, then south to Banff & Calgary.
>From here, we'll either take secondary roads paralleling the
Trans-Canada or drop down to Hwy. 2 in the states.

Will pass thru Duluth & visit Andy Goldfine of Aerostich, as well
as family in Upper Michigan.

Will likely cross back into Canada at Sault Ste. Marie & ride to
Ottawa. From there, who knows.

Of course, all of the above is subject to change based on weather
& whim.

Many years ago I came to the conclusion that if one has no
commitments, itinerary & steadfast plans, it is impossible to be
disappointed. Just do with the flow & enjoy each day as if it were
the last day of vacation.

Adios!

Kit




------------------------------

From Victor.A.King@dartvax.dartmouth.edu Thu Jun  1 14:10 PDT 1995
Subject: the gods must be crazy


since you were so quick to respond to my last query (cross reference under
fried chicken, stoppies, and  self-immolation) i thought i'd throw this your
collective way.

if you've ever seen the film, the gods must be crazy, you would know the sound
of someone getting hit on the head with an old-style glass coke bottle.

That is the sound that comes from my back wheel sometimes.  let me explain.. 
(tho i really am at a loss to try to guess what this one is from)--  if i shift
into first while rolling around a corner in town and then engage and give it a
little throttle, that is when i hear it.  But i could not induce it while on
the center stand.  

I've checked the wheel, the tightness of the bolts, the sprocket tightness, and
the chain is new by about 500 mi.

Any thoughts?

thanks again.  
S


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Thu Jun  1 14:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: the gods must be crazy

> 
> 
> since you were so quick to respond to my last query (cross reference under
> fried chicken, stoppies, and  self-immolation) i thought i'd throw this your
> collective way.

fried chicken???

I don't think I want to know.


> 
> if you've ever seen the film, the gods must be crazy, you would know the sound
> of someone getting hit on the head with an old-style glass coke bottle.

That movie is soooooooo cool!  

> 
> That is the sound that comes from my back wheel sometimes.  let me explain.. 
> (tho i really am at a loss to try to guess what this one is from)--  if i shift
> into first while rolling around a corner in town and then engage and give it a
> little throttle, that is when i hear it.  But i could not induce it while on
> the center stand.  
> 
> I've checked the wheel, the tightness of the bolts, the sprocket tightness, and
> the chain is new by about 500 mi.
> 
> Any thoughts?

Ahhh, check the excentric carrier, and it's respective pinch bolt.  Also,
try to remove the rear wheel and check for loose things back there
(sprocket (although you don't need to remove the wheel for that), disc,
(rotor), caliper assembly, and bearings (as well as anything else ytou
may find down there).

Might sound silly, but check the tire for correct inflation as well.
The bead may not be set, and the tire may be slipping.


Mike


--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Thu Jun  1 14:40 PDT 1995
Subject: the gods must be crazy

     Hi Frank,
     
     Question...is it possible to have the mailer (for HawkGT) send the
     mail to the mailing list so that HawkGT@dsea.com is the sender vs.
     the person who posted the question?  More often than not, when a
     question is posted to the list, the answers are not posted (Sasha's
     note below is an example).  I think the information from others is
     likely to be useful.  The only reason I can come up with people not 
     sharing their answers is, like I do, they just "reply" to the message 
     which means it'll go to the original poster and not to the list.
     
     Jeff


______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________
Subject: the gods must be crazy
Author:  Sasha.King@Dartmouth.EDU (Sasha King) at INTERNET
Date:    6/1/95 5:11 PM


     
since you were so quick to respond to my last query (cross reference under 
fried chicken, stoppies, and  self-immolation) i thought i'd throw this your 
collective way.
     
if you've ever seen the film, the gods must be crazy, you would know the sound 
of someone getting hit on the head with an old-style glass coke bottle.
     
That is the sound that comes from my back wheel sometimes.  let me explain.. 
(tho i really am at a loss to try to guess what this one is from)--  if i shift 
into first while rolling around a corner in town and then engage and give it a 
little throttle, that is when i hear it.  But i could not induce it while on 
the center stand.  
     
I've checked the wheel, the tightness of the bolts, the sprocket tightness, and 
the chain is new by about 500 mi.
     
Any thoughts?
     
thanks again.  
S

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Message-Id: <5668648@schlitzen.Dartmouth.EDU>
Date: 01 Jun 95 17:11:19 EDT
From: Victor.A.King@Dartmouth.EDU (Victor A. King)
Reply-To: Sasha.King@Dartmouth.EDU (Sasha King)
Subject: the gods must be crazy
To: hawkgt@dsea.com



------------------------------

From MBRODESKY@SC9.intel.com Thu Jun  1 14:40 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: the gods must be crazy

Could it be the famous hawk chain on plastic guide, that sounds like
rocks being ground up.
Michael



------------------------------

From gofast@panix.com Thu Jun  1 14:55 PDT 1995
Subject: Hawk stuff...

A couple of quick ones......my girlfriend and I were at the races in
Bridgehampton last weekend and we saw a Hawk on which the owner had moved
the handlebar clamps down BELOW the triple clamp.  Now, my girlfriend rides
a hawk, (hence my subscription to this list) and liked the way it looked (it
DID look cool) and wants to move hers down as well.  So the question is, has
anyone here done this, and are there pros and cons?  As I said, she likes
the way it looks, and would like to be in a lower riding position anyway
(wind etc).

Also, she wants to remove the Muzzy that the guy b4 she owned it *welded*
onto the collector and go back to a stock pipe. Otherwise, she'd  like to
buy a new exhaust system, but wants to avoid re-jetting (the guy that put
the Muzzy on didn't and it runs shitty off idle) from the stock jets, and
wants something louder than stock but not deafening (the Muzzy is LOUD).
Suggestions? (we thought maybe the s.trapp as it is "tunable" but I dont
know how loud it is).

Thanks all, ride safe.

Brad

      ~~~~~~~~~~~~Visit The Deck:~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ~~~~| http://adware.com/adware/welcome.html~~~~~
 A growing community of artists and entertainers offering
paintings, music, interactive puzzles, unique t-shirts, club listings and
information. 



------------------------------

From goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us Thu Jun  1 15:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: the gods must be crazy

On 1 Jun 1995, Victor A. King wrote:

> That is the sound that comes from my back wheel sometimes.  let me explain.. 
> (tho i really am at a loss to try to guess what this one is from)--  if i shift
> into first while rolling around a corner in town and then engage and give it a
> little throttle, that is when i hear it.  But i could not induce it while on
> the center stand.  

I've heard something like that also. Usually when accelerating away from a
stop. To me, it sounds like a piece of gravel getting popped out from
under the wheel. Sounds tire-oriented anyway. Have no idea what it is.

Matt/OH




------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Thu Jun  1 15:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: The Road Beckons

> 
> Of course, all of the above is subject to change based on weather
> & whim.
> 
> Many years ago I came to the conclusion that if one has no
> commitments, itinerary & steadfast plans, it is impossible to be
> disappointed. Just do with the flow & enjoy each day as if it were
> the last day of vacation.

YES!!!!!  I did exactly the samething on my last trip.  I had an
idea of where I was heading and when I needed to get back home
(about a week, not NEARLY as long as this trip), and it was 
the most relaxing, fun trip I had ever taken.

Bravo, and have lots 'o fun.

Mike
--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From lacey@dsea.com Thu Jun  1 15:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: the gods must be crazy

>     Hi Frank,
>
>     Question...is it possible to have the mailer (for HawkGT) send the
>     mail to the mailing list so that HawkGT@dsea.com is the sender vs.
>     the person who posted the question?  More often than not, when a
>     question is posted to the list, the answers are not posted (Sasha's
>     note below is an example).  I think the information from others is
>     likely to be useful.  The only reason I can come up with people not
>     sharing their answers is, like I do, they just "reply" to the message
>     which means it'll go to the original poster and not to the list.
>
>     Jeff
>

Hmmmm.... Yes and no.... ;-)

It is possible, and the "right" way to do it.....

I'll put it on my todo list... I will be out for a couple days tho...

Signed,
The sometimes friendly postmaster@dsea.com


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************




------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Thu Jun  1 15:25 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Hawk stuff...

> 
> A couple of quick ones......my girlfriend and I were at the races in
> Bridgehampton last weekend and we saw a Hawk on which the owner had moved
> the handlebar clamps down BELOW the triple clamp.  Now, my girlfriend rides
> a hawk, (hence my subscription to this list) and liked the way it looked (it
> DID look cool) and wants to move hers down as well.  So the question is, has
> anyone here done this, and are there pros and cons?  As I said, she likes
> the way it looks, and would like to be in a lower riding position anyway
> (wind etc).

Were the bars on the race bike stock?  I doubt it, but if so, it would
have looked pretty hoaky.

> 
> Also, she wants to remove the Muzzy that the guy b4 she owned it *welded*
> onto the collector and go back to a stock pipe. Otherwise, she'd  like to
> buy a new exhaust system, but wants to avoid re-jetting (the guy that put
> the Muzzy on didn't and it runs shitty off idle) from the stock jets, and
> wants something louder than stock but not deafening (the Muzzy is LOUD).
> Suggestions? (we thought maybe the s.trapp as it is "tunable" but I dont
> know how loud it is).

The Supertrapp is deafening, no doubt about it.  Very, very loud
(assuming it's tuned correctly).  It _can_ be quiet, but expect
minimal power from a quiet supertrapp.


Mike
--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From Troyst3@aol.com Thu Jun  1 16:20 PDT 1995
Subject: hawkgt

unsubscibe


------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Thu Jun  1 16:40 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Hawk stuff...

>A couple of quick ones......my girlfriend and I were at the races in
>Bridgehampton last weekend and we saw a Hawk on which the owner had moved
>the handlebar clamps down BELOW the triple clamp.  Now, my girlfriend rides
>a hawk, (hence my subscription to this list) and liked the way it looked (it
>DID look cool) and wants to move hers down as well.  So the question is, has
>anyone here done this, and are there pros and cons?  As I said, she likes
>the way it looks, and would like to be in a lower riding position anyway
>(wind etc).

For a while, after my unfortunate incident with the back of a car and the
pavement, I took off my clip-ons and put the stock bars back on below the
forks.  I got the idea from Steve Pratt (you still out there Steve?) when I
went to pick up some replacement parts.

Pros:  looks cool, much nicer position
Cons:  you gotta remove the front forks from the clamp to do it (not so
bad), the cables don't feed quite as nicely (not bad), and you have to sort
of wedge the bars down between the headlight mounts and the bar.
Bottom line:  If you can afford them, get adjustable clip-ons (I've got
Telefix).  They are fantastic.  FULLY adjustable, almost TOO adjustable.
If you can't afford them, go the lowered route.  It'll add to her studly
biker image.

I also lowered the front/raised the forks a bit (5mm?) to change the
steering angle a bit, but didn't notice a lot of difference, so I went back
to stock.  Racers would have more info on this one.

>Also, she wants to remove the Muzzy that the guy b4 she owned it *welded*
>onto the collector and go back to a stock pipe. Otherwise, she'd  like to
>buy a new exhaust system, but wants to avoid re-jetting (the guy that put
>the Muzzy on didn't and it runs shitty off idle) from the stock jets, and
>wants something louder than stock but not deafening (the Muzzy is LOUD).
>Suggestions? (we thought maybe the s.trapp as it is "tunable" but I dont
>know how loud it is).

So you want to buy an exhaust because it's LOUDER?  That seems kind of
silly to me.  Like this guy with the Muzzy -- big, open exhaust system
(never mind the boxed air filter) with stock jetting -- squidly waste of
money.  If you don't want to mess with the jetting, go back to a stock
exhaust.  It'll run SOOOO much nicer.

That said, I'm a firm believer in the Two Brothers canister with K&N
filters and Factory jet kit on the Hawk.  Best looking and sounding pipe by
FAR AND AWAY (others may argue with this, but they are wrong =-)).  Sounds
like a goldurned Ducati (only smaller, and no rattly dry clutch sound,
yeesh =-)).  Absolutely fabulous performance, but it may take some work (if
you do it yourself) to get the jets just right (I should know, I'm still
wrestling with the intagible, feeliness of the whole 'jetting thing').

I've heard that the Supertrapp is also a great pipe for the Hawk, and many
race with both it and the TBR pipe.  The Supertrapp is a bit more
economical also, I believe.

NOTE:  I don't know where you are, but I have a stock exhaust for sale if
you want it.  $50 + shipping?  Anyone else want it?  Let me know....

Hugh
88 grey (but not for long...)




------------------------------

From ronrad@microsoft.com Thu Jun  1 17:10 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: Hawk stuff...



 ----------
From: 	Mike Nielsen[SMTP:mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com]

>
> A couple of quick ones......my girlfriend and I were at the races in
> Bridgehampton last weekend and we saw a Hawk on which the owner had   moved
> the handlebar clamps down BELOW the triple clamp.  Now, my girlfriend   rides
> a hawk, (hence my subscription to this list) and liked the way it  
looked (it
> DID look cool) and wants to move hers down as well.  So the question
  is, has
> anyone here done this, and are there pros and cons?  As I said, she   likes
> the way it looks, and would like to be in a lower riding position   anyway
> (wind etc).

Both of my race bikes (one stock Hawk front end, the other a GSXR-750
inverted front end) have the clip-ons below the triple clamp.  Only way   to
keep from being blown off the thing.  In both cases, I used different 
 clip-ons,
the Hawk ones have way too big a rise.  Having the bars down lower brings
your body weight over the front wheel, helps for cornering, but is a lot
harder on your body for longer rides.  It also makes it a longer stretch   to
the bars, if she is relatively short.

Ron  

#
begin 666 WINMAIL.DAT
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MH)IY$)S=&5M
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MT&D%0#05M,$`.=34!&`5)EN>404U!(X/YU$;`B`&@P#=!)$6^A<[;^
M+&JU28)-50>1T8@40
M-/!O5)9?\`AP>7%D=@%WH&=^:`5`3R%\-&]T3=`)X&S_7O%``%$1`A!0L06P
M3I%H0?E34&)U!4!7<6>26>81@?\$@4V2@5B$(BQ`-/!GY$=!WWDQ!4`'0!@P
M3P!A;C)9(?]GDH?C$\`LL&IP3A%V=G]&_U-0!I!CPU=Q++`+8"D@3S#_=?%C
MT"Q1:JQ#KT2YC;^.S1<'\4HV*]$`DS````,`$!```````P`1$``````>`#T`
2`0````4```!213H@`````*SB
`
end
#


------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Thu Jun  1 17:10 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Doc Wong

Thanx to Mike, I'll be there too...'88 grey, some boring numbers and
letters on my plate.  Yahoo!

Hugh

>I'll be there on my '89 Red RC-31, lic. plate reads "RIDE RED"
>
>
>See ya there!
>--------------------------( Forwarded letter 1 DOES NOT follow)------




------------------------------

From wroof@ns1.netside.com Thu Jun  1 17:10 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Hawk stuff...Lions and Pipes and Bars

> saw a Hawk on which the owner had moved
>the handlebar clamps down BELOW the triple clamp.  Now, my girlfriend rides
>  So the question is, has
>anyone here done this, and are there pros and cons?  As I said, she likes
>the way it looks, and would like to be in a lower riding position anyway
>(wind etc).

I have also seen this done. Looked a little cobby, but I thought it quite
clever. I thought about trying it myself; you may have to bend the bracket
that holds the headlight and fusebox. I wonder if you could flip the bars
upside down instead? 

>Also, she wants to remove the Muzzy that the guy b4 she owned it *welded*
>onto the collector and go back to a stock pipe. Otherwise, she'd  like to
>buy a new exhaust system, but wants to avoid re-jetting (the guy that put
>the Muzzy on didn't and it runs shitty off idle) from the stock jets, and
>wants something louder than stock but not deafening (the Muzzy is LOUD).
>Brad

A trick pipe without a jet kit is a waste. You can fix the jetting for $5 or
less with advice from the Hawkgt web site, a little patience and a modicum
of manual dexterity. Any particular reason she doesn't want to re-jet? 

If she wants quiet, I cannot recommend a Kerker either. Mine is perhaps
marginally quieter than a Muzzy, but louder than a TBR. The Kerker also eats
its packing fairly quickly, which you can replace with house insulation, or
nothing if so inclined.

If you want a stock exhaust, I have a complete one gathering dust. Talk to me.

Dave Roof    "That's too far to go in a car!"

wroof@mail.netside.com  w.roof@genie.geis.com [Yane]  '85 BMW K100RT [Waltraude]
West Columbia SC  BMWMOA 68743  HRCA  Conebutt  CORT  '88 Honda Hawk [Jason]
IBMWR Principal Euphonist



------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Thu Jun  1 17:40 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Hawk stuff...

Hey Mike...

> > A couple of quick ones......my girlfriend and I were at the races in
> > Bridgehampton last weekend and we saw a Hawk on which the owner had moved
> > the handlebar clamps down BELOW the triple clamp.  Now, my girlfriend rides
> > a hawk, (hence my subscription to this list) and liked the way it looked (it
> > DID look cool) and wants to move hers down as well.  So the question is, has
> > anyone here done this, and are there pros and cons?  

What color was the Hawk you saw?  There were only a couple of Hawks at 
Bridge this weekend with the low bars, and one was mine.

I found on the track that my arms were pumping up way too much, so I 
began working out.  I also noticed, however, that the stock bar position 
forced mt arms to bend in a weird way when I tucked in.  My bars are 
lowered so that my forearms and wrists are straight when I'm down under 
the bubble.  They also clear the fairing better.

If you want info on the parts I used, gimme a shout.

C ya
DC



------------------------------

From alan@wana.pbrc.Hawaii.Edu Thu Jun  1 17:55 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Hawk stuff...

Well, I happen to have my clip-ons mounted below the triple clamp and a 
Muzzy exhaust.  The clip-ons I use are made by Magura and practically 
indestructable.  The one negative thing I've noticed about having the 
bars that low are that you lean forward placing more weight on your 
wrists.  Good things about having low clipons are that wind is 
easier to deal with (but not as much as a fairing), steering input seems better 
(to me anyway) and it looks much more racier.  Also if you were to put 
clipons below the triple clamp make sure that when that the bars clear the frame 
(and especially your thumbs) when the front end is turned to full lock 
and also the clutch, throttle, wiring may get bunched up but not to the 
extent where things may get pinched.  About the Muzzy pipe, sorry,  can't 
help you there. 


------------------------------

From sturges@oasys.dt.navy.mil Fri Jun  2 05:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Hawk stuff...pipes

Mike Nielsen writes:
>The Supertrapp is deafening, no doubt about it.  Very, very loud
>(assuming it's tuned correctly).  It _can_ be quiet, but expect
>minimal power from a quiet supertrapp.

Mike, please stop hinting that the supertrapp is loud. I have the ST pipe
with adjustable end plates. For a while I ran it with 4 discs; minimal
jetting changes (just a needle lift I think) and it was not much louder than
stock. Definitely quieter than the Muzzy. As I remember the top end was a
little strong than stock but mid-range and throttle response were much improved.

These days I'm feeling much more politically, socially, and auditorally
incorrect, so my current setup is 8 discs, no air box cover, and wheelies at
every stop light.

rich
(ps- the lower bars I use help keep the front end under control during those 
     adolescent wheelies)



------------------------------

From RGGAMMA@aol.com Fri Jun  2 05:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Tail section WTD

I am looking for a red tail section,  the bayonet tabs and L rear mounting
tab are missing causing the part to droop on the left side(looks crappy from
the back).  I priced one from Honda to the tune of $340  ( wow!!  That's
Ducati like pricing).  Any aftermarket stuff that's good?  When ordering a
Corbin seat, do you have to supply the seatbase or is the Corbin seat
complete?  In addition, any cure for the drooping rear turn sig lights other
than replacement with shorter ones?

Regards

Randy (916, 89Red, 500Gamma, KTM300exc, in debt)


------------------------------

From wroof@ns1.netside.com Fri Jun  2 07:10 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Tail section WTD

>I am looking for a red tail section,  the bayonet tabs and L rear mounting

>complete?  In addition, any cure for the drooping rear turn sig lights other
>than replacement with shorter ones?
>
>Regards
>
>Randy (916, 89Red, 500Gamma, KTM300exc, in debt)
>

Good luck on a tail section.

A cheap fix for flaccid turn signals is to remove the flexible rubber
section. The sockets have a stud that will go right into the mounting grommet.

Dave Roof    "That's too far to go in a car!"

wroof@mail.netside.com  w.roof@genie.geis.com [Yane]  '85 BMW K100RT [Waltraude]
West Columbia SC  BMWMOA 68743  HRCA  Conebutt  CORT  '88 Honda Hawk [Jason]
IBMWR Principal Euphonist



------------------------------

From vgregory@mckinley.den.mmc.com Fri Jun  2 07:25 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: the gods must be crazy

Yeah, another of the Hawk's eccentricities - the popcorn-popper (as in
the kid's toy that drove your mom nuts) noise.  It sounds like gearbox
to me, and I've wondered about first gear under acceleration.  Had the
noise happen yesterday on a cool-down ride (bad meeting, don't ask)
thru the twisties, accelerating in first on some of the really slow 
corners.  I've never heard of any Hawks eating gearboxes, though.

Val Gregory
'90 Hawk GT - "Redtailed"
DoD #1258


------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Fri Jun  2 08:51 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Tail section WTD

I have a busted up grey tail section that still has good mounting stuff.  I
could cut it all off and send it too you (or you could pick up if you live
near San Francisco) and you could silicone (?) them together or something.
If you like.

Free (+ shippin')!

Hugh


>I am looking for a red tail section,  the bayonet tabs and L rear mounting
>tab are missing causing the part to droop on the left side(looks crappy from
>the back).  I priced one from Honda to the tune of $340  ( wow!!  That's
>Ducati like pricing).  Any aftermarket stuff that's good?  When ordering a
>Corbin seat, do you have to supply the seatbase or is the Corbin seat
>complete?  In addition, any cure for the drooping rear turn sig lights other
>than replacement with shorter ones?

Get the replacements.  They're only $15, and they look GREAT compared to
those fat stock monsters.  Or you can remove the Rubber Spacer Thingy
(technical term) with little effort.  Doesn't that droop suck?  What an
extremely LAME mounting idea.  One of my only pet-peeves (?) with the hawk.

Hugh




------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Fri Jun  2 08:51 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Hawk stuff...pipes

> 
> Mike Nielsen writes:
> >The Supertrapp is deafening, no doubt about it.  Very, very loud
> >(assuming it's tuned correctly).  It _can_ be quiet, but expect
> >minimal power from a quiet supertrapp.
> 
> Mike, please stop hinting that the supertrapp is loud. I have the ST pipe
> with adjustable end plates. For a while I ran it with 4 discs; minimal
> jetting changes (just a needle lift I think) and it was not much louder than
> stock. Definitely quieter than the Muzzy. As I remember the top end was a
> little strong than stock but mid-range and throttle response were much improved.
> 

Sounds right.  Before I tuned mine, it had better midrange response
and better off-idle behavior, but not terribly improved top end.  After
it was tuned . . .

> These days I'm feeling much more politically, socially, and auditorally
> incorrect, so my current setup is 8 discs, no air box cover, and wheelies at
> every stop light.

 . . . I wheelie from every stop light too.  After jetting, whoo boy, look
out.  Fun, but a touch loud (my neighbors hate me).

> (ps- the lower bars I use help keep the front end under control during those 
>      adolescent wheelies)

ADOLESCENT!!!!!!!  This is how I de-stress after work!  Wheelie out
of the HP parking lot.  Pretty cool, if you ask me.

:-)

--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Fri Jun  2 10:55 PDT 1995
Subject: Who's who.


Hey Frank et al:

Is there still a Hawk who's who list floating around???  I'm 
gonna be at Doc Wong's, and would like to know who else is
there.  Unfortunately, I've never personally met anyone
on this list, and can only go off of bike descriptions,
such as the ones offered in the older whos who listings.

I can help create it if you need a hand.

Thanks,

Mike
--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From marty@carter.ca.boeing.com Fri Jun  2 12:10 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: Hawk stuff...

 
 On last years race bike, I mounted the stock bars below the triple
 clamp.  It seems to make the steering a little heavier and they had to
 be mounted lower than I would have liked in order for angled portion of
 the bars to clear the triple tree.  It worked fine for me on the track,
 but I don't know if I would like it on the street.  F2 bars (among
 others) will bolt right on and sit at a nice height.
 
 see ya!
 
 marty


------------------------------

From jpl10@mfg.amdahl.com Fri Jun  2 12:10 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Tail section WTD

> ti like pricing).  Any aftermarket stuff that's good?  When ordering a
> Corbin seat, do you have to supply the seatbase or is the Corbin seat
> complete?  In addition, any cure for the drooping rear turn sig lights other
> than replacement with shorter ones?
	
If you order a Corbin from the factory, they'll use their own seatbase and so
you can keep riding till the new one comes in, plus you'll have the stock seat
to throw in the closet and collect dust.  If you're near the Northern CA area,
it's well worth the effort to ride to Corbin's factory in Castroville.  I did
and it made a big difference cause they'll make the seat while you wait and then
before they put the covering on, they bring it out with just a plastic sheet
over the bare foam, and have you ride around for 15-30 min. and if you want any
adjustments to it they can add more foam or shave off certain areas.  A big 
plus if you're gonna spend that kinda money.

Good Luck!

James


------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Fri Jun  2 12:25 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Who's who.

How about a sign and countersign?  Maybe even something that can be
recognized while passing on a twist...Three Stooges moves are always good.

So, what are the Hawk secret sign and countersign?

Hugh

P.S. -- oh, and the Who's Who would be nice, too.  It would be cool to have
it somewhere FTPable, and maybe have it mailed to the list once a month.
Just pop it in the cron, eh?  Our Sparcs could certainly handle this if you
don't have the facilities.

>Hey Frank et al:
>
>Is there still a Hawk who's who list floating around???  I'm
>gonna be at Doc Wong's, and would like to know who else is
>there.  Unfortunately, I've never personally met anyone
>on this list, and can only go off of bike descriptions,
>such as the ones offered in the older whos who listings.
>
>I can help create it if you need a hand.




------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Fri Jun  2 12:25 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Who's who.

I think this is a cool idea- need a hand?

DC



------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Fri Jun  2 12:40 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Who's who.

> 
> I think this is a cool idea- need a hand?
> 

Sure.  If there's nothing else that's "official" (and I'll
wait on the word from Frank about that), I can circulate
a questionaire and get all of the information into some
sort of database.

Questions I'd be interested in seeing:

Name: (duh, of course)
Location: (physical location, not mental.  Ie, not pluto)
Email address
Phone Number
Hawk year
Color
Modifications
Tires
Future plans for the Hawk
Racer? (where, AMA? AFM? FIM?)
AMA Member?
Other bikes you own
Other comments/interests/etc


I hope that all doesn't sound too personal for anyone.  We can always
add/delete at will, too.

--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Fri Jun  2 12:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Tail section WTD

> If you order a Corbin from the factory, they'll use their own seatbase and so
> you can keep riding till the new one comes in, plus you'll have the stock seat
> to throw in the closet and collect dust.  If you're near the Northern CA area,
> it's well worth the effort to ride to Corbin's factory in Castroville.  I did
> and it made a big difference cause they'll make the seat while you wait and then
> before they put the covering on, they bring it out with just a plastic sheet
> over the bare foam, and have you ride around for 15-30 min. and if you want any
> adjustments to it they can add more foam or shave off certain areas.  A big 
> plus if you're gonna spend that kinda money.

Yup, he's right.  Although I remember them saying that they will
need to finish the seat at a later date and ship it to you, but 
still....  No matter what, tho, you still have a spare seat 
to use for racing/coffeetable/skateboard/etc.

It's the same price to go to the factory and have a seat form-fitted
to your butt as it is to order it via mail order and have a generic
Corbin.  Spend the dough and ride out there.

THey also have a factory in Pennsylvania, me thinks.

Mike

PS - still looking for a Corbin to save my butt.  I might just spring the
cash this wekend when I'm at DOc Wong's and pick one up, give them
my seat as a partial trade, or have them ship it back to me.  Is anyone
selling theirs at all, tho?  I don't mind saving the $100 or so
on a used seat...
Gumby: you still have that one? haven't heard back from you yet.

--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Fri Jun  2 13:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Who's who.

> 
> How about a sign and countersign?  Maybe even something that can be
> recognized while passing on a twist...Three Stooges moves are always good.
> 
> So, what are the Hawk secret sign and countersign?

Middle finger is all that comes to mind, but that's reserved
for Volvos and Minivans. :)

> P.S. -- oh, and the Who's Who would be nice, too.  It would be cool to have
> it somewhere FTPable, and maybe have it mailed to the list once a month.
> Just pop it in the cron, eh?  Our Sparcs could certainly handle this if you
> don't have the facilities.

I don't have an anon FTP site here (hell, I can't even FTP out).  
It _used_ to be mailed out once a month/quarter or something,
but the list has changed dramatically lately (except for us
weirdos who have been here for years and years).

Mike

--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From jpl10@mfg.amdahl.com Fri Jun  2 13:20 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: Hawk stuff...

> but I don't know if I would like it on the street.  F2 bars (among
>others) will bolt right on and sit at a nice height.

As Marty noted, F2 bars work just great.  I have a set mounted below the triple clamp and it feels so much better than stock.			


James


------------------------------

From GTRider9@aol.com Fri Jun  2 17:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: the gods must be crazy

In a message dated 95-06-02 10:44:24 EDT, vgregory@mckinley.den.mmc.com
writes:

>Subj:	Re: the gods must be crazy
>Date:	95-06-02 10:44:24 EDT
>From:	vgregory@mckinley.den.mmc.com
>To:	Sasha.King@dartmouth.edu
>To:	goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us
>CC:	hawkgt@dsea.com
>

>Yeah, another of the Hawk's eccentricities - the popcorn-popper (as
>in
>the kid's toy that drove your mom nuts) noise.  It sounds like
>gearbox
>to me, and I've wondered about first gear under acceleration.  Had
>the
>noise happen yesterday on a cool-down ride (bad meeting, don't ask)
>thru the twisties, accelerating in first on some of the really slow 
>corners.  I've never heard of any Hawks eating gearboxes, though.
>
>Val Gregory
>'90 Hawk GT - "Redtailed"
>DoD #1258
>
Wow, I really feel left out!!  My bike doesn't make any strange noises except
a tinkling sound from the Muzzy slip-on when I roll off the throttle.  The
front end used to clunk over short, sharp-edged bumps before I replaced their
guts with F-2 stuff, but I've never heard any kind of popcorn popper sound.

BTW Val, did you make the Pueblo race?  I only saw one other spectator Hawk
GT there, and it was pretty stock.  I plan to be at Mountain View on
Sunday--maybe I'll see you there.

Dave


------------------------------

From Victor.A.King@dartvax.dartmouth.edu Fri Jun  2 18:05 PDT 1995
Subject: the chase--the pith if you will

So if it IS the cush drive... (im asking cause i heard it twice today nice and
loud as i was rolling on (after waxing off)) 
		what kinda $-ola or danger are we talking?


thanks.

S


------------------------------

From James.C.Monberg@dartvax.dartmouth.edu Fri Jun  2 18:35 PDT 1995
Subject: chain&shprockets

EVERYTHING MUST GO!!!

okay, well not really everything --

for sale:

new OEM 525 sprockets front and rear and a DID vector supreme O-ring chain

uh...make me a *reasonable* offer. If someone needs this stuff fine, but I'd
sooner keep it than give it away -- I'm selling to buy a 520 chain to go on the
converted drivetrain per the list's sage advice :)

jamie


------------------------------

From alan@wana.pbrc.Hawaii.Edu Fri Jun  2 20:10 PDT 1995
Subject: jetting recommendations

I again would like to draw from the your collective experiences.  It has 
been brought to my attention that running a big free-flowing pipe (a 
Muzzy slip on) without rejetting and a stock airbox is squiddly. I 
bought my Hawk that way, so I might as well continue on with the 
free flowing emgine mods. I have read articles posted about jetting at the 
Hawk web site and I am considering that particular method.  My questions 
are -- For those who run Muzzys, what size jets should I go if keeping 
the stock airbox? What kind of mods can I do to the stock airbox?  If I 
modify the airbox should I change the jetting?  Are there any mirror 
sites for the Hawk Webpage?  Thanks.


------------------------------

From Hawknt@aol.com Sat Jun  3 00:10 PDT 1995
Subject: Driveline Lash

Anyone know how to reduce or eliminate the driveline lash?  My '89 (8000
miles) is much worse than my old FT500.  It's particularly difficult to avoid
in slow-speed corners.  I've had the wheel off (when I replaced the stock
tires with Michelin 89Xs) and all seemed tight.  Cush drive slop?
 Suggestions appreciated.  

By the way, the previous owner put on a Muzzy collector and Lockhart Carbon
muffler.  Was very noisy when I got it.  Repacked the muffler and it quieted
down to an acceptable level (at least at lower revs). 

Finally, anyone replace the footpegs with something that looks cleaner?
 Price?  Thanks for the help.

Stuart


------------------------------

From gofast@panix.com Sat Jun  3 11:05 PDT 1995
Subject: jetting recommendations


>I again would like to draw from the your collective experiences.  It has 
>been brought to my attention that running a big free-flowing pipe (a 
>Muzzy slip on) without rejetting and a stock airbox is squiddly.

Agreed.
 
>bought my Hawk that way,

So did my GF.  The problem is that she cant decide wether to finish the job
or return it to stock.....now if it were mine..  :-)


>Hawk web site

Where is this?
thanks

brad

      ~~~~~~~~~~~~Visit The Deck:~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ~~~~| http://adware.com/adware/welcome.html~~~~~
 A growing community of artists and entertainers offering
paintings, music, interactive puzzles, unique t-shirts, club listings and
information. 



------------------------------

From lexa@austin.cc.tx.us Sat Jun  3 11:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: jetting recommendations



On Fri, 2 Jun 1995, Alan Cabasug wrote:

[snip]

> modify the airbox should I change the jetting?  Are there any mirror 
> sites for the Hawk Webpage?  Thanks.
> 

Hawk web sites?  I'm new to this newsgroup.  Could someone please post 
the adresses of that and anything else i may be missing.

thanks-

Bill
Red '88



------------------------------

From Victor.A.King@dartvax.dartmouth.edu Sat Jun  3 11:20 PDT 1995
Subject: cush drive--redux


Well, i guess from the lack of response to my repeated queries whether a
coke-bottle to the head noise making cush drive is dangerous to ride with, that
you all either collectively dont know or are of the conviction that it's not. 
or you want me dead.



S
88 Blue
DHOG #001


------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Sat Jun  3 22:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Driveline Lash

> Finally, anyone replace the footpegs with something that looks cleaner?
>  Price?  Thanks for the help.

F2 footpegs look real nice and clean- probably relatively cheap, guven 
the number of racers that use them.


------------------------------

From goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us Mon Jun  5 08:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: cush drive--redux

On 3 Jun 1995, Victor A. King wrote:

> Well, i guess from the lack of response to my repeated queries whether a
> coke-bottle to the head noise making cush drive is dangerous to ride with, that
> you all either collectively dont know or are of the conviction that it's not. 
> or you want me dead.
 
I've been riding with that sound for at least 2 years and 3 different rear
tires, and I'm not dead yet (knock, knock). Judging from the number of listers
who have posted they hear the sound, I would guess it is normal, or at least
consistently abnormal. Kind of like that quartering wind power loss.

Matt/OH




------------------------------

From goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us Mon Jun  5 08:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Driveline Lash

On Sat, 3 Jun 1995 Hawknt@aol.com wrote:

> Anyone know how to reduce or eliminate the driveline lash?  My '89 (8000

Mine has this problem as well. I posted a question about it on Compuserve,
and got no indication it was a common occurance. It was suggested a worn
chain and sprockets would cause it. I used to have my chain too tight, so
I'm hoping that is the cause. Craig Erion says that you shouldn't trust
the factory chain guage, the hawk's chain really tightens up part way
through the suspension travel, and that is where you should check the
slack. He suggested having a friend sit on it while checking.

> Finally, anyone replace the footpegs with something that looks cleaner?

Move the rear footpegs to the front.

Matt/OH






------------------------------

From goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us Mon Jun  5 08:35 PDT 1995
Subject: TBR Hawk exhaust

There has been some discussion about the TBR exhaust's midrange flat spot
and the MVR's tapered head pipes to mitigate the problem.

I was at Mid-Ohio yesterday, and of course looked at every Hawk I found.
One had a very new-looking TBR pipe on it and it in fact did have the
tapered pipes as well. I thought that maybe I just hadn't noticed the
taper before, but later I found another hawk with an untapered design
(Taper may be the wrong word, the head pipe starts out at a smaller
diameter then steps up the the regular diameter after about 8-10 inches).
When was this design change made?

Also, how vulnerable is that front head pipe to crash damage (where it
loobs out to the left)?

Matt/OH




------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Mon Jun  5 08:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Doc Wong Ride

     
     Well, we had a good day to ride and the ride was great.
     
     I had a chance to meet a couple of fellow Hawksters -- Mike
     Nielsen and Mike Brodesky (Hope I got the last name right, Mike).
     It was great seeing some faces to associate with the e-mail.
     
     I also spied a red Hawk with the RC31 fairing at this event
     but didn't get a chance to talk with him.  Was this someone on
     the list?
     
     Jeff



------------------------------

From vgregory@mckinley.den.mmc.com Mon Jun  5 09:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: the gods must be crazy

Dave sed:
>BTW Val, did you make the Pueblo race?  I only saw one other spectator Hawk
GT there, and it was pretty stock.  I plan to be at Mountain View on
Sunday--maybe I'll see you there.

Nope, overtime and chasing children is keeping me housebound - but we'll
be at the Father's Day race at Stapleton, barring unforeseen complications!

Val Gregory
'90 Hawk GT - "Redtailed"
DoD #1258


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Mon Jun  5 09:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Doc Wong Ride

> 
>      
>      Well, we had a good day to ride and the ride was great.
>      
>      I had a chance to meet a couple of fellow Hawksters -- Mike
>      Nielsen and Mike Brodesky (Hope I got the last name right, Mike).
>      It was great seeing some faces to associate with the e-mail.

Except Jeff rode his VFR.  Weenie. :)  (v.nice bike, jeff.)

>      
>      I also spied a red Hawk with the RC31 fairing at this event
>      but didn't get a chance to talk with him.  Was this someone on
>      the list?

I had the same question.  The bike looked fabulously clean and
well done, obviously not the work of a 'netter. :)


Mike

--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From vgregory@mckinley.den.mmc.com Mon Jun  5 09:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re:  cush drive--redux

Sasha sed:
>Well, i guess from the lack of response to my repeated queries whether a
coke-bottle to the head noise making cush drive is dangerous to ride with, that
you all either collectively dont know or are of the conviction that it's not. 
or you want me dead.

Well, some of us know what you're talking about, but no one's 'fessed up
to getting in trouble with it, so #1 or #2 sound about right!

Val Gregory
'90 Hawk GT - "Redtailed"
DoD #1258




------------------------------

From jpl10@mfg.amdahl.com Mon Jun  5 11:55 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Doc Wong Ride

> 
>      I also spied a red Hawk with the RC31 fairing at this event
>      but didn't get a chance to talk with him.  Was this someone on
>      the list?
> 
>      Jeff

Yep, that was me!  I saw about four GT's including myself but also didn't	
get a chance to talk to them.  Being as this was my first time on Doc's 
ride and also first time down Tunitas Creek Rd.(it really is a DAMN
goat trail:) I took it easy in group 8.  What group were you guys in?

It sure turned out to be a really fun ride!

You guy maybe wanna group up before the ride next time?   Where do 
you guys live, Mike and Mike?  I live in Santa Clara.

James
'89 "Ride Red"  RC-31


------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Mon Jun  5 12:10 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Doc Wong Ride

>>      Well, we had a good day to ride and the ride was great.
>>
>>      I had a chance to meet a couple of fellow Hawksters -- Mike
>>      Nielsen and Mike Brodesky (Hope I got the last name right, Mike).
>>      It was great seeing some faces to associate with the e-mail.

Hey!  I didn't even realize that anyone but Mike was there.  Too busy
worrying about going down Tunitas Cr., I guess.  Hrm.

Mike:  how's the eye?  (Mike was pulling some SERIOUSLY high g-force on
those twisties and musta busted a blood vessel from the strain) =-)

My feelings on the ride:  They shoulda grouped people a bit more carefully.
The woman on the Vmax (?) cruiser DEFINITELY didn't belong in group 3 (I
probably didn't either, but she was slidind A LOT).  By the time the ride
was over, there were only 3 of us left, including the leader.  That's out
of 11!

Where everyone went:  Vmax & her man split after the first stop (or down
grouped).  Mike & his friend split after lunch when his eye was beginning
to bulge =-).  The guy on the little enduro with the black jacket & flashy
pants upgrouped (!) after lunch, and we saw him crashed a little while
later (he was fine, I think).  Then we went down Jameson Cr.  It was ugly.
I'd been down it before, so I knew that it was scary, so I held back A LOT.
Sunday drive stuff.  We got to the bottom and the guy on the new (NEW)
CBR900 said he had almost crashed, and was visibly shaken.  Up on a dirt
embankment.  The woman on the new (to her) Ninja 750 was also freakin' out
a bit.  We waited for her boyfriend.  And waited.  And waited.  Art (the
group leader) went back.  He had crashed (low speed front in gravel).  So
his girlfriend and the guy on the BMW went back to help him out (he was
fine).  Art, CBR900 guy and I finished the ride (whew).

All in all a lot of fun, but they need to STOP at the top of Jamison Cr.
and tell everyone to BE CAREFUL.  That road is treacherous w/ potholes,
gravel, and tight, TIGHT turns of all shapes & sizes.

My riding:  I felt pretty good, except for when we went down Tunitas Cr.
and almost lost the back end...planting my foot (HARD) on the asphalt/dirt
probably didn't help any, but it sure got Mike's attention (he was behind
me).  Thanks for not laughing at me, Mike!

F2 front wheel report:  I like it!  The bike has smoother transition from
turn to turn than stock, and seems to stick nicely.  And it looks fab!

>Except Jeff rode his VFR.  Weenie. :)  (v.nice bike, jeff.)
>
>>      I also spied a red Hawk with the RC31 fairing at this event
>>      but didn't get a chance to talk with him.  Was this someone on
>>      the list?
>
>I had the same question.  The bike looked fabulously clean and
>well done, obviously not the work of a 'netter. :)

I've seen it at Alice's a couple of times very recently.  It looks brand
new...totally stock except for the fairing.  VERY nice (drool, drool), but
a bit too rich for my blood.  This year (dream).

Hugh




------------------------------

From MBRODESKY@SC9.intel.com Mon Jun  5 12:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Ride



	Yes I also spied on the bikes. I seem to be the only one with stock
bars. I'll need to look into flipping min, or getting f2 clip ons. When
you change the clip ons, do you have to shorten all the cables?



------------------------------

From marty@carter.ca.boeing.com Mon Jun  5 12:40 PDT 1995
Subject: fast hawk

I am an instructor for the WMRRA (Seattle Area) New Riders School. 
We held a class on Saturday, and who shows up but Mike Velasco with his
96 HP monster Hawk.  It kinda looks like a Hawk, but to actually call 
it one is stretching things a bit.  The engine is actually an Africa 
Twin 750 bored out to 850 (not available in US).  The bike is filled 
with HRC unobtainium stuff.  It was freakin' fast!  He said he was 
reving it to 11k.  Mike wants to start racing some WMRRA events, but he
hasn't raced in about six years.  for taking that much time off, he 
was riding pretty well.  I had to work my ass off to stay with him on 
that bike, it would blow by me on the straights like a 750!  Lotta
fun.

--
see ya!

marty


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Mon Jun  5 13:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Doc Wong Ride

> 
> > 
> >      I also spied a red Hawk with the RC31 fairing at this event
> >      but didn't get a chance to talk with him.  Was this someone on
> >      the list?
> > 
> >      Jeff
> 
> Yep, that was me!  I saw about four GT's including myself but also didn't	
> get a chance to talk to them.  Being as this was my first time on Doc's 
> ride and also first time down Tunitas Creek Rd.(it really is a DAMN
> goat trail:) I took it easy in group 8.  What group were you guys in?
> 

Oustanding motorcycle.  You've got tot let us take a close peek at
it soon.

> It sure turned out to be a really fun ride!

Until my eye exploded and I had to split, it was great!

> You guy maybe wanna group up before the ride next time?   Where do 
> you guys live, Mike and Mike?  I live in Santa Clara.

(speaking for Mike B and myself) we both live around Sacramento.
I live and work in Roseville (at HP), and Mike B works at Intel
in Folsom, me thinks.


Mike N
--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From JPlott@aol.com Mon Jun  5 13:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Exhaust

deon,
     Yes the emulators are installed.  They work great.  I weigh 252 lbs, 6'
2".  I have the emulators set at five turns in ( they come set at four);  I,
too, am using the Progressive springs with 2 3/4 inch spacers, 10 wt. Spectro
oil ( I did not use the Race Tech oil due to cost..... right at $60.00 for
fork oil).  Oil level is 6 inches from the top when slider is fully
compressed without spring installed.  The race sag is a bit loose because I
use the bike only on the road.  The rear race sag is set at 1 1/8 inch due to
my weight.  You will notice tthe difference in the first 100 yards of
 asphaltus curveabendus riding.  
     By the way, I prefer the wet "T" under the leathers.

Ride safe  and stay cool...

John   


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Mon Jun  5 13:25 PDT 1995
Subject: Head work for Hawks


Has anyone tried doing any milling, machining, porting and polishing,
of the Hawk's heads to gain performance?

I don't want to run out and spend thousands of $$ and buy titanium
valves, pistons, cams, cranks, etc.  I don't mind, however, taking
the heads to a machinist and having them worked over a bit.  Pretty
cheap, and about the same amount of work involved.

Any takers?

Mike
--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Mon Jun  5 13:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Schwantz retires, Russell moves up!

     I just got this from the VFR list....interesting


______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________
Subject: Schwantz retires, Russell moves up!
Author:  vfr@cs.wisc.edu at INTERNET
Date:    6/5/95 1:34 PM


     
Motorcycle Online just posted an announcement that Kevin Schwantz has 
retired from GP 500s because of continuing problems with his hip and wrist.
     
Taking his place will be none other than SCOTT RUSSELL!!
     
Way to go Scott!!  Best of luck to both Kevin & Scott.

     

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------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Mon Jun  5 13:50 PDT 1995
Subject: DocWong's this weekend (a wrap up) (fwd)


This never made it to the list (length?), and I sent it out over 3 hours
ago.  Here 'tis again, sorry if it's a duplicate to some, but I never
got a copy from the Hawk list.

Mike

> Hey everyone:
> 
> First of all let me say it was wonderful to finally meet a few
> of the group members, particularly Michael B., Jeff L, and Hugh M.
> (did I miss anyone?)
> 
> As for the class...
> 
> Doc Wong is a very personable and a reasonably interesting, for a 
> chiropractor. :)  He's got gobs of riding experience (street and
> dirt), although I'm rather surprised at the low number of years
> he's got on sport bikes. (since '90 on a Kat 600 as a 1st sport bike).
> 
> He covered some topics that were of particular interest to me, since
> they were all bad habits that I had:
> 
> 1) fixating on road hazards
> 2) judging corner entrance speeds
> 3) judging exit speeds (and building up to them)
> 4) how to handle mid-corner stuff
> 5) why NOT to brake in corners
> 6) throttle control
> 
> (there were more, but I can't remember them all)
> 
> After the brief class (lasted about an hour or so), we split up
> into groups of 10 people.  There were 'bout 100 people there,
> so there were about 10 groups.  1 being the fastest (led by the
> Doc himself), and 10 being the slowest.  I placed myself in grou
> 3.   (note: group 2 was led by this raging buy named Gary.  He
> is undoubtedly the fastest person you'll ever want to ride with.
> Period.  Group 2 was apparently faster than 1, judging from the
> way he slid his tires (I could see the treadwear on his CB1) and
> how fast the other bikes in the group wore their tires.)
> 
> The group I was in, group 3, was pretty slow.  We had some lady on a 
> Virago 1100, who had this nasty habit of locking the rear brake in
> corners (Hugh, wish you had seen that!).  We proceeded to get around
> her at the first opportunity, as she spooked the shit out
> of me and my riding partner.
> 
> I really can't give a complete ride report on everything, since I
> had to bolt early (health problems: allergies went crazy and I
> developed a blister on my eye.  yes, a blister. yes, ouch).  
> Maybe Hugh could pick up from where I leave off, which was 
> a restaurant on the 1, about 10 miles north of Santa Cruz.
> 
> We left Doc Wong's early, at about 9:30 am.  I am totally 
> unfamiliar with the area, so I cannot quote street names
> that we took (Redwood City: first time I ever went there).
> Suffice it to say that we practiced some of our new 
> techniques on goat country roads.  VERY twisty (Hawk heaven),
> very dirty, and very bumpy.  I really liked it, it kind
> of reminded me of the good old days in my Jeep CJ7 off road
> on Peavine mountain . . .
> 
> Anyway, we put about 50 miles on in about 2.5 hours, through
> some extremely nasty roads in the Santa Cruz mountains.
> After this point (lunch), I needed to leave, so  . . . 
> 
> (I won't bore you with my road story from Santa Cruz to
> sacramento, but it was HOT, WINDY, and miserable due to
> my illness.  Any yes, I am going to the doctor today,
> and no, my eye hasn't popped and released an alien yet :-)
> 
> Talk atcha later,
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> PS - the real pisser end to my ride was the fact that I 
> missed the opportunity to buy a perfect Corbin off a guy
> that wrecked his Hawk.  It seriously pisses me off.  He
> approached me at one of our breaks and offers to sell it
> to me cheap, and I say sure (like an idiot) and offer
> to meet him after the ride at the post game wrap up.  I
> never made that wrap up.  PISS!!!  If anyone knows the name
> and phone number/e-mail of the guy that was riding the F2
> in group 2, lemme know.  He's the one that told the story 
> (during the class) of riding over a steel plate (wet) and
> trying to avoid a car, then promptly sliding his bike into
> a concrete divider (totalling it.  it was his Hawk).
> 
> PPS - ObWheelies (not me :).  Some terd squid on an 900RR
> decided to wheelie out of the break spot just as we hit the
> 1 for the first time.  If you didn't see it, you missed
> the squidliest maneuver I've EVER SEEN.  He wheelied
> past his group leader, with the front wheel continuously
> rising, until uh oh, oh no, ahhh, ACK!!!  He rises the
> wheel throwing his CG past the critical point, and the bike
> starts to flip.  He NAILS the rear break, and the front comes
> SLAMMING down in a smack of unglory.  I giggled my ass off
> for hours after that.  (oh, and he wheelied PAST the group
> leader, a real brainless thing to do)
> 
> --
> Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com
> 


--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Mon Jun  5 14:05 PDT 1995
Subject: DocWong's this weekend (a wrap up)


Hey everyone:

First of all let me say it was wonderful to finally meet a few
of the group members, particularly Michael B., Jeff W, and Hugh M.
(did I miss anyone?)

As for the class...

Doc Wong is a very personable and a reasonably interesting, for a 
chiropractor. :)  He's got gobs of riding experience (street and
dirt), although I'm rather surprised at the low number of years
he's got on sport bikes. (since '90 on a Kat 600 as a 1st sport bike).

He covered some topics that were of particular interest to me, since
they were all bad habits that I had:

1) fixating on road hazards
2) judging corner entrance speeds
3) judging exit speeds (and building up to them)
4) how to handle mid-corner stuff
5) why NOT to brake in corners
6) throttle control

(there were more, but I can't remember them all)

After the brief class (lasted about an hour or so), we split up
into groups of 10 people.  There were 'bout 100 people there,
so there were about 10 groups.  1 being the fastest (led by the
Doc himself), and 10 being the slowest.  I placed myself in grou
3.   (note: group 2 was led by this raging buy named Gary.  He
is undoubtedly the fastest person you'll ever want to ride with.
Period.  Group 2 was apparently faster than 1, judging from the
way he slid his tires (I could see the treadwear on his CB1) and
how fast the other bikes in the group wore their tires.)

The group I was in, group 3, was pretty slow.  We had some lady on a 
Virago 1100, who had this nasty habit of locking the rear brake in
corners (Hugh, wish you had seen that!).  We proceeded to get around
her at the first opportunity, as she spooked the shit out
of me and my riding partner.

I really can't give a complete ride report on everything, since I
had to bolt early (health problems: allergies went crazy and I
developed a blister on my eye.  yes, a blister. yes, ouch).  
Maybe Hugh could pick up from where I leave off, which was 
a restaurant on the 1, about 10 miles north of Santa Cruz.

We left Doc Wong's early, at about 9:30 am.  I am totally 
unfamiliar with the area, so I cannot quote street names
that we took (Redwood City: first time I ever went there).
Suffice it to say that we practiced some of our new 
techniques on goat country roads.  VERY twisty (Hawk heaven),
very dirty, and very bumpy.  I really liked it, it kind
of reminded me of the good old days in my Jeep CJ7 off road
on Peavine mountain . . .

Anyway, we put about 50 miles on in about 2.5 hours, through
some extremely nasty roads in the Santa Cruz mountains.
After this point (lunch), I needed to leave, so  . . . 

(I won't bore you with my road story from Santa Cruz to
sacramento, but it was HOT, WINDY, and miserable due to
my illness.  Any yes, I am going to the doctor today,
and no, my eye hasn't popped and released an alien yet :-)

Talk atcha later,

Mike


PS - the real pisser end to my ride was the fact that I 
missed the opportunity to buy a perfect Corbin off a guy
that wrecked his Hawk.  It seriously pisses me off.  He
approached me at one of our breaks and offers to sell it
to me cheap, and I say sure (like an idiot) and offer
to meet him after the ride at the post game wrap up.  I
never made that wrap up.  PISS!!!  If anyone knows the name
and phone number/e-mail of the guy that was riding the F2
in group 2, lemme know.  He's the one that told the story 
(during the class) of riding over a steel plate (wet) and
trying to avoid a car, then promptly sliding his bike into
a concrete divider (totalling it.  it was his Hawk).

PPS - ObWheelies (not me :).  Some terd squid on an 900RR
decided to wheelie out of the break spot just as we hit the
1 for the first time.  If you didn't see it, you missed
the squidliest maneuver I've EVER SEEN.  He wheelied
past his group leader, with the front wheel continuously
rising, until uh oh, oh no, ahhh, ACK!!!  He rises the
wheel throwing his CG past the critical point, and the bike
starts to flip.  He NAILS the rear break, and the front comes
SLAMMING down in a smack of unglory.  I giggled my ass off
for hours after that.  (oh, and he wheelied PAST the group
leader, a real brainless thing to do)

--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From marty@carter.ca.boeing.com Mon Jun  5 14:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Head work for Hawks

> 
> 
> Has anyone tried doing any milling, machining, porting and polishing,
> of the Hawk's heads to gain performance?
> 
> I don't want to run out and spend thousands of $$ and buy titanium
> valves, pistons, cams, cranks, etc.  I don't mind, however, taking
> the heads to a machinist and having them worked over a bit.  Pretty
> cheap, and about the same amount of work involved.

You don't really need titanium anything, but oversize valves are nice.
Of course, simply cleaning up the ports will help flow, but won't
result in huge HP gains.

I know a guy who went the cheap route by adding material to the stock
pistons, which raised the compression ratio significantly.  The bike
ran pretty fast for a long time.  If you increase the power a lot, you 
really need to think about polishing and balancing the crank and rods. 
My tuner (SB Motorsports) has currently gone a similar route by 
building a new motor that has mega compression (via head or cylinder 
shaving - I forgot which).  We're gonna run it this weekend, I'll let 
you know how it goes.

I think a cheap performance increase would be the following:
       -a free flowing exhaust
       -remove the airbox cover and tape up between the frame and the
        airbox
       -rejet the carbs
       -raise the compression via machining
       -clean up the ports
       -run the hell out of it!


--
see ya!

marty


------------------------------

From MEL1523@ACS.TAMU.EDU Mon Jun  5 14:35 PDT 1995
Subject: More info on the FRAM PH6017 recall



>From Motorcycle Consumer News:

Allied Signal, marketers of FRAM oil filters, has determined that a 
defect which relates to motorcycle safety exists on certain FRAM
motorcycle oil filters.  This affects the FRAM PH6017 oil filters 
purchased from Allied Signal between January 1, 1995 and March 16, 
1995.  The filters can be identified by the words "Made in Korea" 
printed in silver letters on the side of the filter, following the 
Allied Signal address.

The PH6017 filters are being recalled for a defect in the attaching 
threads which could result in the filter becoming unattached during 
service.  To correct this problem, all PH6017 motorcycle oil filters
marked "Made in Korea" should be returned to the point of purchase 
for immediate credit.  For filters that have been dealer installed,
all service and required parts will be provided free of charge.

If you have a problem obtaining the needed repair, please contact 
Allied Signal directly at 1-800-468-9041.

Those are the Hawk's filters, for those who still haven't heard about
the recall.  I thought I'd post the info cuz it has a way to identify 
the defective ones.

I'll put this on the web page when I get a chance.

 - Mitch




------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Mon Jun  5 15:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Head work for Hawks

> > Has anyone tried doing any milling, machining, porting and polishing,
> > of the Hawk's heads to gain performance?
> > 
> > I don't want to run out and spend thousands of $$ and buy titanium
> > valves, pistons, cams, cranks, etc.  I don't mind, however, taking
> > the heads to a machinist and having them worked over a bit.  Pretty
> > cheap, and about the same amount of work involved.
> 
> You don't really need titanium anything, 

I was simply being silly. :)

> Of course, simply cleaning up the ports will help flow, but won't
> result in huge HP gains.
> 
> I know a guy who went the cheap route by adding material to the stock
> pistons, which raised the compression ratio significantly.  The bike
> ran pretty fast for a long time.  If you increase the power a lot, you 
> really need to think about polishing and balancing the crank and rods. 
> My tuner (SB Motorsports) has currently gone a similar route by 
> building a new motor that has mega compression (via head or cylinder 
> shaving - I forgot which).  We're gonna run it this weekend, I'll let 
> you know how it goes.

yes, please post any and all results to the list!!

> 
> I think a cheap performance increase would be the following:
>        -a free flowing exhaust
>        -remove the airbox cover and tape up between the frame and the
>         airbox
>        -rejet the carbs

OK, have the above. 

>        -raise the compression via machining

Not a bad idea! =)  (Would this involve milling the head slightly?)

>        -clean up the ports

Now a real question:  Without taking the heads to a machinist, how
does one clean up the ports?  Simple sandwork with fine grit 
sanpaper?

>        -run the hell out of it!

YES!! =)


Thanks,

Mike

--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From marty@carter.ca.boeing.com Mon Jun  5 15:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Head work for Hawks

> 
> Now a real question:  Without taking the heads to a machinist, how
> does one clean up the ports?  Simple sandwork with fine grit 
> sanpaper?
> 
If you look at the ports, there is a lot of casting marks and such.
Just as you guessed, you can clean this up with sandpaper.  The idea
here is to simply polish the ports smooth, not change the shape. 
Be very careful around the valve seats.


--
see ya!

marty 



------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Mon Jun  5 17:35 PDT 1995
Subject: help, please


A while back we discussed possible sprocket options.  A couple of 
names crept up, like SProcket Specialists, and another one . . .

Who are the big sprocket people?  I need to do a 520 conv. kit on
the Hawk quick, and Sprocket Specialists does NOT make a 520 front
for the Hawk.  Someone does (not TBR.  They do, but it's $170 for
the kit), but I can't remember who, and the name/number are sitting
on my desk in Reno, NV, on my old (now abandoned) desk.

Specifically, I need a stock tooth 520 front, and a 42 tooth 520
rear, and a 520 chain to boot.

Help me before I get so irritated I begin drooling on myself.  =)

Mike

--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From alan@wana.pbrc.Hawaii.Edu Mon Jun  5 18:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: help, please

I just got my 520 conversion in the mail today.  Its from Pro-Tekk 
sprockets.  It was more than the $75 someone quoted a while back.  But I 
really liked their customer service.  They can be reached at 1 800 PRO 
TEKK  ask for John.  I also called AFAM their 520 conversion -- costs a 
cool $180.  Called Coyote sprockets too, $100 for the rear sprocket 
alone.  Pro Tekk was the cheapest I could find.  Hope that helped.




------------------------------

From gennari@universe.net.hawaii.edu Mon Jun  5 18:55 PDT 1995
Subject: need a used side-stand

Hi all,

We'll someone rammed the front wheel of my parked Hawk and 
dumped it. >-\ Nobody saw anything so now I left with repairing
it.

The damage was mostly to my helmet which was lock on the holder. But
I also need a new sidestand, the arm part was severly bent backwards.
Does anyone out there have a use sidstand they could sell me? The dealers
want about $85 (including shipping) and that seems a little much.

Please send email or call me directly at (808) 956-5392 (work) or
(808) 739-2149

Thanks,
Scott Gennari
gennari@Hawaii.Edu


------------------------------

From MAILER-DAEMON Tue Jun  6 19:19 PDT 1995
Subject: Returned mail: warning: cannot send message for 4 hours

This is a MIME-encapsulated message

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The original message was received at Tue, 6 Jun 1995 15:12:21 -0700
from frank@localhost

   ----- The following addresses had delivery problems -----
TPNB25A@prodigy.com  (transient failure)

   ----- Transcript of session follows -----
451 TPNB25A@prodigy.com... reply: read error from chalice.firewall.dsea.com.
TPNB25A@prodigy.com... Deferred: Connection timed out during client QUIT with netcomsv.netcom.com.
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Received: (from frank@localhost) by server.eng.dsea.com (8.6.9/8.6.9) id PAA17857 for TPNB25A@prodigy.com; Tue, 6 Jun 1995 15:12:21 -0700
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 1995 15:12:21 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 
Message-Id: <199506062212.PAA17857@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: TPNB25A@prodigy.com
Subject: Re: List Info.
Content-Length: 524


The HawkGT list is an unmoderated list.  It is actually the brain
child of somebody else, but I had the time, disk space, compute
power and connectivity to implement it.  In some sense it is mine.

The list of users is certainly mine, and I hate to give it out.

This is a relaxed mail list.  I have all past articles and compile
them into digests.  Mosts past digests are available.  

There is not FAQ.  Somebody else has a WWW page.  If I have some
spare time, I'll try to create one too.

Keep those questions coming.


--TAB19572.802491574/server.eng.dsea.com--



------------------------------

From MAILER-DAEMON Tue Jun  6 19:34 PDT 1995
Subject: Returned mail: warning: cannot send message for 4 hours

This is a MIME-encapsulated message

--TAB19604.802492484/server.eng.dsea.com

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The original message was received at Tue, 6 Jun 1995 15:28:57 -0700
from frank@localhost

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451 mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com... reply: read error from chalice.firewall.dsea.com.
mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com... Deferred: Connection timed out during client QUIT with netcomsv.netcom.com.
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Date: Tue, 6 Jun 1995 15:28:57 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 
Message-Id: <199506062228.PAA17915@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com
Subject: Re: Who's who.
Content-Length: 1007


As a mentioned, there is one of these out there.  I may have to 
look for it.  Just did. Can't find it right off.

To you list, add a Crashes catagory, and perhaps a Good Hawk Roads.

Here

Frank Even Perdicaro
Southern California: Santa Ana.  Used to be from Eastern Massachusetts
frank@dsea.com
some phone number
88 Blue
Supertrapp, Metzlers, Corbin w/lady.  Fiamm on Billet By Perdicaro bracket.
  Matching Eclipse tank bag.  Eclipse panniers ( burnt by Supertrapp ).
  Vanson Leathers. Progressive springs.  
Spare tank, growing to 5 gallons.  Soon to loose airbox cover.

No other bikes; I'd like a Transalp

The HawkGT makes a good dirt bike.  There are a few local dirt roads
  that cause mine to get airborn.  Pretty good in the water, too; I
  have the pictures from last year's Joust.
My Chevelle accelerates, turns, and stops harder than my Hawk, and its
  louder, too.  It has taken a great deal of my spare time.  Since I
  moved I now walk to work, and my Hawk collects dust.  Sad but true.


--TAB19604.802492484/server.eng.dsea.com--



------------------------------

From Jakedj@aol.com Thu Jun  8 10:45 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Head work for Hawks

>From Mike's question:

>Now a real question:  Without taking the heads to a machinist, >how does one
clean up the ports?  Simple sandwork with fine >grit sandpaper?

Nooooooooooooooo.  Read the four stroke book.
jakedj


------------------------------

From DPBHAWK@aol.com Thu Jun  8 10:45 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Doc Wong Ride

Hi all,  I've been lurking here for some time. After seeing all the Hawksters
who made the Doc Wong ride, I realized how many of you are in the SF Bay
area. I'm in Santa Clara and would be interested in meeting some of
you....group ride anyone? We short-range bike riders need to stick together
:-)

Don - '88 Blew


------------------------------

From Jakedj@aol.com Thu Jun  8 10:45 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Head work for Hawks

for anyone on a budget:
I highly recommend "Four-Stroke Performance Tuning" by A. Graham Bell.  It
gives a good overview of how to hot up an engine correctly, not just slapping
parts on at random. It also tells why it doesn't matter a bit if you have
bigger valves if your exhaust header is not sized properly.

It also gives good advice about how to correctly tune carbs.

Jakedj


------------------------------

From AGault@aol.com Thu Jun  8 10:46 PDT 1995
Subject: KERKER WHITE TIP

does anybody on this list use a kerker white system.  the local honda shop
told me that that is the way to go.  i was wondering if it is possible to run
that with out rejetting the carbs.  after buying the pipe i wont be able to
afford getting the carb work done until next month.  should i put it on now
or wait until i can get the whole thing done.  last question, i bought my
hawk 2 months ago.  it had 1500 miles on it and it was a 89.  even after the
bike is warmed up when i get on it in first gear it jerks at the first
complete crack of the throttle.  i tried to run my bike with the air box
cover of just to see what i was like and the think sputtered up untill i hit
5000 rpm.  i work on cars and to me this sounds like a fuel delevery problem.
 any advice on what to do   please help


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Thu Jun  8 10:46 PDT 1995
Subject: Group ride?


Yes, it's me again.

I ws thinking (oh no!!!!!), howz 'bout a group ride somewhere in the
bay area?  Seeing as though there has never been official sanctioned
HawkGT get together (uh oh, it's sounding beaurocratic now), we may as
well give it a shot. 

Since I'm just a loser from Sacramento, I'd have to leave up to the
bay area peoples to figure out a ride course, meeting places, and 
various stops/etc.

Of course, we could always to another Doc Wong's next month and skip
having to organize something ourselves.

Out of town people could rent hotels the night before?  Who knows.



Mike

PS - I'm working on the questionairre.  Give me a bit 'o time, and it
should be complete.
--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Thu Jun  8 10:46 PDT 1995
Subject: New TBR pipe

     
     Recently, someone mentioned they saw a "new" TBR pipe that had 
     slightly smaller header collectors than an older model.  I called
     TBR this morning inquiring about it and I specifically asked about
     the midrange dip their pipe produces.  The response was that the
     smaller header collectors should help that somewhat but they also
     said that the feedback they are getting (hmmmm) is that their pipe
     is making the most horses if jetted correctly (including in the
     mid-range).
     
     TBR will have a '96 catalog available (yep, skipped right over '95)
     in 3 weeks.  Cost $4.00.  No longer free, but if you order something,
     they'll deduct the $4 cost.
     
     Jeff



------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Thu Jun  8 10:46 PDT 1995
Subject: Re[2]: Doc Wong Ride

     
>> 
>> Except Jeff rode his VFR.  Weenie. :)  (v.nice bike, 
>>jeff.) > 
     
>Alright Jeff, I didn't tell you about that bike so that you 
>could garage it pal! ;-> 
     
Bitch, bitch, bitch...complain, complain, complain  ~8-O
     
Don't worry, I'm attempting to do all you veteren Hawk'ers 
proud.  My F2 front end is almost complete (by this coming 
weekend) and is getting topped off by a carbon fiber fender 
(I had to have one cool looking piece!).  Then I'll pull 
off the rear wheel so it can get powder coated (Black) to 
match the front wheel.  I've mounted Battlax's.  Kevlar 
brake lines.  Galfer (green) pads up front.  Next is a 
shock (Fox or Ohlins based on what I've seen on the list).
     
So, it should be worth the wait.
     
Jeff
     



------------------------------

From WhiteWorm@aol.com Thu Jun  8 10:46 PDT 1995
Subject: Hallett Speedway

I was in Oklahoma Sunday and I went to the races at Hallett.  I saw about 6
Hawks.  This one guy had a full TBR setup on a yellow Hawk and that was
pretty cool but I ended up spending most of my day orbiting around a guy
named Eric Falt from Plano, TX.  He had this sweet Hawk with a front faring
and a solo racing seat.  It was yellow in the front and faded to orange in
the rear with #3 expert (white) plates.  I talked to him about pipes and
mentioned the TBR; he said that the TBR is OK if you have lots of $$ but the
pipe he uses is much better and much cheaper!  It was a pipe from ACE racing
in Dallas, TX for $250.00.  I asked him to fire up his bike and he did...
 Holy Shit!    It was the loudest sweetest sound I had ever heard.  He then
proceeded to win every race with that beast.  He'd be screaming around these
sweepers and it would sound lika a friggin TIE fighter until he reached where
I was--then I'd get a rear shot of that pipe full on in the chest
RAAAAAAAAAAAAH...                          jism.  

...He is also a very nice person :-)

Thanks Eric,
Duke
-Fayetteville, AR


------------------------------

From jpl10@mfg.amdahl.com Thu Jun  8 10:46 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Doc Wong Ride

> >
> >>      I also spied a red Hawk with the RC31 fairing at this event
> >>      but didn't get a chance to talk with him.  Was this someone on
> >>      the list?
> >
> >I had the same question.  The bike looked fabulously clean and
> >well done, obviously not the work of a 'netter. :)
> 
> I've seen it at Alice's a couple of times very recently.  It looks brand
> new...totally stock except for the fairing.  VERY nice (drool, drool), but
> a bit too rich for my blood.  This year (dream).
> 
> Hugh


I've never actually stopped at Alice's before, but passed by there many times.
BTW, mine is not full stock so might there be another red RC-31 lurking in the
Bay Area?  

Also, thanks for the compliment guys!

A funny story happenned during Doc's ride this past Sunday.  While we were at
one of the "many" stops, our group leader was talking about the route since
all of us were first timers.  Well he mentions that first part of the ride
going up Woodside Rd. where there is alot of tree's overhanging and that is
called Eucalyptas(sp) Lane by the residents.  Well as residents in those upper
class areas are, they don't like bikers riding thru because of the noise some 
bikes make.  So he always recommends to his group to gear up while going thru
that part so as to keep the revs down and hopefully the noise down too.  Then
he mentions that it still doesn't work very well with some folks that have 
full stainless exhaust systems that he can hear even behind him.  All the while
he's giving me a sly smile and eyeing my SuperTrapp, and he also says "although
it does sound beautiful."  And i'm thinking to myself, "but I only have five
discs?" :)

Also, another great thing about the Hawk on the Doc's route is that when riding
thru Tunitas and Jameson, we don't have to do hardly any shifting with the 
torque our V-twins put out.  The rider in front of me, on a Kawi 6R kept having
to shift at almost every turn!  I asked my group leader about that and he said 
even he was having to shift on almost every turn, and he was on a '94 CB1000!!
Geez, even a liter bike can't navigate those trails using one gear!


> (speaking for Mike B and myself) we both live around Sacramento.
> I live and work in Roseville (at HP), and Mike B works at Intel
> in Folsom, me thinks.

So were you the one in Doc's office sitting on the right side benches next to
the dude from Reno?  I was in the row behind you guys on the left bench with
the blue Aerostich.

How about Hugh, where are you from?


James
'89 RC-31 "Ride Red"


------------------------------

From vgregory@den.mmc.com Thu Jun  8 10:46 PDT 1995
Subject: It had to happen eventually...Accident Report

I'm okay and the Hawk appears to have suffered only superficial damage,
although I'm getting it into a shop for a front end evaluation as
soon as the insurance adjustor's had a chance to look at it...

But here's what happened.  I was heading for the day care center on
my way home from work, to pick up my daughter.  I pulled into the
left turn lane on northbound Wadsworth at Chatfield (for anyone
who's familiar with the southwest Denver Metro area) behind a line of
cages as the turn light was changing to red.  I ended up third in line
behind a 3/4 or 1 ton pickup with dual rear wheels.  I left the same
amount of space behind the truck as I usually do, ~10', and stopped as
far to the right as I could.  I could see the driver's face in his 
passenger side rear view mirror, and, thru typical construction pickup 
rack, etc., I could also see him in the windshield rear view.  Because 
the truck was so wide, I couldn't actually get clear of him without 
moving into the next lane.  The bike was in first gear, clutch in, rear 
brake on.  I was watching the car pulling in behind me, when I see 
motion in my peripheral vision.  The truck's backing up, presumably so 
he can get around the car in front of him and continue straight thru the
intersection.  I tried to find the horn (wrong hand, found the starter)
as the right corner of the truck's bumper found the top of my front
tire and the front fender.  Over I went, and thank goodness, the truck
driver realized he'd hit something and stopped.  I got up, walked to his
passenger window and asked if he'd "please come help me pick up my bike,
now."  He got out, helped me get the Hawk righted, and pulled the
wadded-under fender free so we could move out of the way.  The gentleman
in the car that had pulled up behind me got out, asked if he could help,
and offered to be a witness.  He had a cell phone, and called the State
Patrol.  We pulled over into the parking lot of my kids' day care (it's
at that intersection) and traded insurance info while waiting for a
trooper.  After about 5 minutes, my husband arrives on his bike to pick
up our son, the kids see him go by, and rush out with helmets and 
jackets in their arms.  A few minutes later, the CSP trooper arrived, 
and the driver of the truck received a citation for "improper proceeding 
from a turn lane".

Now for the critique.  I think my lane position was good.  I could have
cleared the truck by stopping on the left side shoulder, but that could
have enticed the following car to pull up beside me.  BUT I should have
left more space between myself and the truck, to compensate for the
very narrow escape route on the right.  That would have left me more
time to unfreeze and do something evasive (or at least find the horn).
I probably shouldn't have been concentrating quite so much on my
mirrors - although under the conditions, I certainly expected a rear-
ending more than the front-ending I got!

One humorous note - Ryan (my son) asked why we were waiting.  I told him
we were waiting for the police.  He asked why they were taking so long,
and I told him that the officer taking the call was probably in CSP's
Camaro Z28, patrolling the nearby highway (I've seen him there in
the afternoon on several occasions), and that it would take him a few 
minutes to turn around and get to us.  Imagine Ryan's surprise when the
Z28 pulled into the parking lot a few minutes later!  He's now convinced
that I'm psychic!  (All to the good - let him think I can "see" when
he's misbehaving!)

Again, save for a bruised left leg, sore wrist and jacket-burned elbow
on the right, I'm okay.  I'm going to the doctor's this afternoon to
check out the wrist.  I was wearing my helmet, jeans, HG jacket, and my 
brand-new boots (from Z-Custom Leathers, Sensory!), and they did the job 
they were supposed to.  Although I'm considering elbow pads for my 
jacket - I dropped the Hawk in the parking lot last month (stupid newbie 
move), and got the same elbow burn on the left side!  

The Hawk has a wadded-up front fender, loose front turn signals, 
scratches on the front brake lever, right rear turn indicator, muffler 
and passenger peg, and the footpeg on the right has its metal bent 
under.  There's no visible damage to the front tire save for some 
scuffing, and no obvious damage to the front end (but I'm getting it 
checked out).  There's a crack in the plexiglass windscreen, and the 
Targa fairing (did I spell that right?) has a nick by the right front 
turn indicator.  I rode it home with my daughter on the back.  Could 
have been worse - Megan could have been on the bike during the accident!

I'm talking to insurance companies, and will post results (good or bad)
as they happen.  I'm with Progressive, and the truck driver (who is 
actually the owner of the company that owns the truck) has commercial 
coverage with a local company called USF&G.

Okay, you guys, my asbestos virtual Aerostich(tm) is on - flame away!

Val Gregory
'90 Hawk GT - "Redtailed, broken nosed"
DoD #1258

(It's FINALLY summer in Colorado, and my baby's busted!  WAAAAAH!)





------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Thu Jun  8 11:45 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Doc Wong Ride

> > (speaking for Mike B and myself) we both live around Sacramento.
> > I live and work in Roseville (at HP), and Mike B works at Intel
> > in Folsom, me thinks.
> 
> So were you the one in Doc's office sitting on the right side benches next to
> the dude from Reno?  I was in the row behind you guys on the left bench with
> the blue Aerostich.

Yup.  The guy from Reno is my best friend, the other two are friends of
mine (one is a college buddy, the other a fellow employee with him at
Intel) from Sacramento.  I work at HP in Hoseville.

I was in the Blue Difis and the white Shoei RF200 helmet, sitting just
next the Reno guy (Dennis is his name).



Mike
--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Thu Jun  8 11:45 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Group ride?

>I ws thinking (oh no!!!!!), howz 'bout a group ride somewhere in the
>bay area?  Seeing as though there has never been official sanctioned
>HawkGT get together (uh oh, it's sounding beaurocratic now), we may as
>well give it a shot.

Sounds great.

>Since I'm just a loser from Sacramento, I'd have to leave up to the
>bay area peoples to figure out a ride course, meeting places, and
>various stops/etc.

Hrm.  Yuck.  We do have a good set of topo maps though.  The Wong ride in
reverse would be kinda fun (UP Tunitas Cr. and Jameison Cr.).  Whatever.

>Of course, we could always to another Doc Wong's next month and skip
>having to organize something ourselves.

I will probably be going anyway, so it does seem convenient...a BBQ/beers
(for those who do)/relax in the (hopefully) sun, post-ride get together at
my house would certainly be possible if folks are interested.  We are
between the finish point (Skyline & Hwy 9) and Alice's (Skyline & Hwy 84),
so it would be only a short ride (10 miles?) after the grueling Wong ride.

>Out of town people could rent hotels the night before?  Who knows.

Folks could certainly stay at my place if they have a sleeping
bag/blankets.  We have some...maybe enough for 3 people.  With the living
room and barn we have space for quite a few (+/-6 or 7), and it's a great
place to have breakfast before a long ride.

Consider me volunteered for Housing Control Officer.

Hugh




------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Thu Jun  8 12:21 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Doc Wong Ride

>> >>      I also spied a red Hawk with the RC31 fairing at this event
>> >>      but didn't get a chance to talk with him.  Was this someone on
>> >>      the list?
>> >
>> >I had the same question.  The bike looked fabulously clean and
>> >well done, obviously not the work of a 'netter. :)
>>
>> I've seen it at Alice's a couple of times very recently.  It looks brand
>> new...totally stock except for the fairing.  VERY nice (drool, drool), but
>> a bit too rich for my blood.  This year (dream).
>>
>> Hugh

>I've never actually stopped at Alice's before, but passed by there many times.
>BTW, mine is not full stock so might there be another red RC-31 lurking in the
>Bay Area?

Hmmmm...not actually AT Alice's but across the street?  It was set up JUST
like yours (I thought) and very clean.  Boy, two folks who can afford that
kit?!?  Heh heh. =)  One of these days...(dream)

>Also, another great thing about the Hawk on the Doc's route is that when riding
>thru Tunitas and Jameson, we don't have to do hardly any shifting with the
>torque our V-twins put out.  The rider in front of me, on a Kawi 6R kept having
>to shift at almost every turn!  I asked my group leader about that and he said
>even he was having to shift on almost every turn, and he was on a '94 CB1000!!
>Geez, even a liter bike can't navigate those trails using one gear!
[stuff snipped]
>
>How about Hugh, where are you from?

Skyline Blvd., exactly 6 miles south of 84, workin' at Stanford U.
Originally from Filthydelphia.

Hugh




------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Thu Jun  8 12:21 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: New TBR pipe

>      
>      Recently, someone mentioned they saw a "new" TBR pipe that had 
>      slightly smaller header collectors than an older model.  I called
>      TBR this morning inquiring about it and I specifically asked about
>      the midrange dip their pipe produces.  The response was that the
>      smaller header collectors should help that somewhat but they also
>      said that the feedback they are getting (hmmmm) is that their pipe
>      is making the most horses if jetted correctly (including in the
>      mid-range).

Is it just me?  I would think that an organization as supposedly as 
well-connected as TBR would have done the research and development to 
KNOW that their pipe makes more HP and helps the midrange, rather than 
building a $400+ pipe and then saying "OK, now YOU try it and tell us if 
it's better."  and using anonymous customer feedback as a selling point 
instead of hard data.  They do have a dyno, you know....

DC



------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Thu Jun  8 12:21 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: KERKER WHITE TIP

On Wed, 7 Jun 1995 AGault@aol.com wrote:

> does anybody on this list use a kerker white system.  the local honda shop
> told me that that is the way to go.

I spoke to Alex at Kerker/Supertrapp last week, and he told me that the 
Kerker Wtip for the Hawk has been discontinued.  My bet is your dealer 
either has one kicking around thay they need to get rid of, or they were 
offered a good closeout deal and want to sell to you at full retail.

Buy the Supertrapp.  Like anything else- you can pay now or pay later, 
but eventually you will pay.

  i was wondering if it is possible to run
> that with out rejetting the carbs.

Run it, yes.  Run it right, no.  Factory Jet kit all they way.  
Instructions are simple and they work.

  after buying the pipe i wont be able to
> afford getting the carb work done until next month.  should i put it on now
> or wait until i can get the whole thing done. 

If those are the only two options then wait till you can do the whole deal.

 last question, i bought my
> hawk 2 months ago.  it had 1500 miles on it and it was a 89.  even after the
> bike is warmed up when i get on it in first gear it jerks at the first
> complete crack of the throttle.  i tried to run my bike with the air box
> cover of just to see what i was like and the think sputtered up untill i hit
> 5000 rpm. 

A 5-year-old motorcycle with onyl 1500 miles on it is a prime candidate 
for clogged carbs.  Pull your carbs off and soak them in non-corrosive 
cleaner (so you don't have to replace all the o-rings) paying special 
attention the pilot circuit.  If you don't know how drop me a line and 
I"ll send a Xerox of the service manual.


> i work on cars...

Oh god....

If you need momre details feel free to email me,
DC



------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Thu Jun  8 12:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Head work for Hawks

On Wed, 7 Jun 1995 Jakedj@aol.com wrote:

> for anyone on a budget:
> I highly recommend "Four-Stroke Performance Tuning" by A. Graham Bell.
> 

Does anyone have a publisher, or a date, on this?  I want to find it, but 
need some more info, since my local libraries and Barnes and Noble showed 
no listing.

C ya
DC



------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Thu Jun  8 12:36 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: It had to happen eventually...Accident Report

Hi Val...

You mentioned you're with Progressive...

My experience with them as both a claimant and a service managaer is that 
they attempt to let claims die.  they will not try to screw you out of a 
claim, but their service hass been VERY slow, apparently in the hope 
customers will forget about it or give up.  the only way we/I ever got a 
check from Progressive was to get the name of the agent dealing with my 
claim and call twice a day until it was resolved.  If they want me to go 
away, they'll have to do it my way...

Now, your region may well be different, but it's something to pay 
attention to.  Anyone else have similar experience with Progressive?

DC



------------------------------

From gennari@universe.net.hawaii.edu Thu Jun  8 12:50 PDT 1995
Subject: WTB: used side-stand for Hawk

Hi all,

I posted one message about this late last week but I didn't see it
show up so here it goes again.

Does anyone out there have a spare side-stand (88' Hawk - if this matters)
they would sell? The only part I need is the arm main arm piece and not the 
whole side-stand assemply. I'm using the center stand for now but that
leaves me worried. It wouldn't take but a light bumb in the back to send my 
Hawk on a solo ride with gravity as an autopilot.

Some cager backed into my Hawk in a parking lot and they took off without
leaving a note. So I have to eat the repair costs. Grrrrr. I was sort of
lucky that my helmet, which was locked in the helmet lock, absorbed most
of the impact when my Hawk fell. Cept now I should probably replace the helmet
($230) as a 400+ pound bike squashed it on the pavement. :( The main arm of 
the side-stand bent backwards as the car backed into my front wheel. 

Thanks,
Scott Gennari
------------------------------------------------------------------
University of Hawaii                      voice (808) 956 5392
Dept. of Information & Computer Sciences  fax   (808) 956 9399 
2565 The Mall, Keller 304A               
Honolulu, HI 96822                        email gennari@Hawaii.Edu


------------------------------

From chewy@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu Thu Jun  8 13:06 PDT 1995
Subject: parts...

hi,
does anyone have the following parts for sale?
- front wheel fairing
- rear fairing skirt
- gear shifter
- rear cover to the instrument panel
- rear light assembly
- front light assembly
thanx.
mike


------------------------------

From amail.amdahl.com!james.lyau@juts.ccc.amdahl.com Thu Jun  8 13:25 PDT 1995
Subject: Next Doc Wong ride!!

 

Folks, I've got the inside word from Doc and he says the next ride is
tentatively scheduled for July 8th.  So mark this w/e down in your calendars
and let's ALL try to be there.  Okay?


James
'89 RC-31 "Ride Red"


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Thu Jun  8 13:25 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Group ride?

> >Since I'm just a loser from Sacramento, I'd have to leave up to the
> >bay area peoples to figure out a ride course, meeting places, and
> >various stops/etc.
> 
> Hrm.  Yuck.  We do have a good set of topo maps though.  The Wong ride in
> reverse would be kinda fun (UP Tunitas Cr. and Jameison Cr.).  Whatever.
> 

I was thinking of a good COAST race down mines, as well. =)
 

> >Of course, we could always to another Doc Wong's next month and skip
> >having to organize something ourselves.
> 
> I will probably be going anyway, so it does seem convenient...a BBQ/beers
> (for those who do)/relax in the (hopefully) sun, post-ride get together at
> my house would certainly be possible if folks are interested.  We are
> between the finish point (Skyline & Hwy 9) and Alice's (Skyline & Hwy 84),
> so it would be only a short ride (10 miles?) after the grueling Wong ride.

In that case, we could just meet up after the ride.  I could find a spot
to stay in the area on Sat. nite, then just head back over on Sunday nite
sometime.

> >Out of town people could rent hotels the night before?  Who knows.
> 
> Folks could certainly stay at my place if they have a sleeping
> bag/blankets.  We have some...maybe enough for 3 people.  With the living
> room and barn we have space for quite a few (+/-6 or 7), and it's a great
> place to have breakfast before a long ride.

Hey, grooooooooovy.  I get the barn. 


Say, do you have any sheep?











> 
> Consider me volunteered for Housing Control Officer.

Hugh M, HCO.


Mike

--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From Doug_Wiebe@NeXT.COM Thu Jun  8 14:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Doc Wong Ride

Add me to the list of Bay Area Hawksters. I live in Moss Beach (by Half Moon
Bay) and work in Redwood City. Hwys 84, 92, 1, Kings Mtn, Tunitas, and Skyline
are regular parts of my commute.

>Also, another great thing about the Hawk on the Doc's route is that when riding
>thru Tunitas and Jameson, we don't have to do hardly any shifting with the
>torque our V-twins put out.  The rider in front of me, on a Kawi 6R kept having
>to shift at almost every turn!  I asked my group leader about that and he said
>even he was having to shift on almost every turn, and he was on a '94 CB1000!!
>Geez, even a liter bike can't navigate those trails using one gear!

This is really true. Today I had a chance to ride a co-worker's CBR600F2 on
Skyline. The F2 is a fine bike but I was struck by how gutless it is below
8000 rpm and how often I had to shift to keep it up in the power band,
compared to my Hawk or VFR. And it buzzed like crazy when it was generating
power. Give me a V-bike with solid mid-range torque any day!

- Doug


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Thu Jun  8 14:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Next Doc Wong ride!!

> 
> Folks, I've got the inside word from Doc and he says the next ride is
> tentatively scheduled for July 8th.  So mark this w/e down in your calendars
> and let's ALL try to be there.  Okay?

If it's really the 8th (Saturday), I'm game.  Sunday is a real
b*tch on me, especially with the commute.

Count me in!

Mike


--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From vgregory@mckinley.den.mmc.com Thu Jun  8 14:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: It had to happen eventually...Accident Report

DC sed:

Hi Val...

You mentioned you're with Progressive...

My experience with them as both a claimant and a service managaer is that 
they attempt to let claims die.  they will not try to screw you out of a 
claim, but their service hass been VERY slow, apparently in the hope 
customers will forget about it or give up.  the only way we/I ever got a 
check from Progressive was to get the name of the agent dealing with my 
claim and call twice a day until it was resolved.  If they want me to go 
away, they'll have to do it my way...

Now, your region may well be different, but it's something to pay 
attention to.  Anyone else have similar experience with Progressive?

DC

In this case, as the other driver was COMPLETELY at fault, and actually
admits it, HIS insurance will be covering the claim.  But your point is well
taken, and I'm already doing a little phone-nagging to keep this thing moving.

Progressive has been very helpful thus far - they contacted the other driver
before he called his insurance!  

As far as slow checks go, I suspect they'll want to give me a check
RIGHT AWAY, before the shop finds the (hypothetical) bent wheel, shoved
back forks, and torqued frame!  I'm holding out for a front end exam 
before I let 'em off the hook!

I'll keep y'all updated...

Val


------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Thu Jun  8 17:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Head work for Hawks

Per the Stanford Bookstore:

ISDN#:  0854292756
Publisher:  Haynes (surprise!)
Date:  Forgot to ask, but it's in print

Hugh

>On Wed, 7 Jun 1995 Jakedj@aol.com wrote:
>
>> for anyone on a budget:
>> I highly recommend "Four-Stroke Performance Tuning" by A. Graham Bell.
>>
>
>Does anyone have a publisher, or a date, on this?  I want to find it, but
>need some more info, since my local libraries and Barnes and Noble showed
>no listing.




------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Thu Jun  8 17:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Group ride?

>> >Since I'm just a loser from Sacramento, I'd have to leave up to the
>> >bay area peoples to figure out a ride course, meeting places, and
>> >various stops/etc.
>>
>> Hrm.  Yuck.  We do have a good set of topo maps though.  The Wong ride in
>> reverse would be kinda fun (UP Tunitas Cr. and Jameison Cr.).  Whatever.
>>
>I was thinking of a good COAST race down mines, as well. =)

AAAARHGHGGHG.  <---my thigh muscles at the end of this ride.

>> Folks could certainly stay at my place if they have a sleeping
>> bag/blankets.  We have some...maybe enough for 3 people.  With the living
>> room and barn we have space for quite a few (+/-6 or 7), and it's a great
>> place to have breakfast before a long ride.
>
>Hey, grooooooooovy.  I get the barn.
>
>Say, do you have any sheep?

Sorry, but our two fully organic, goat-o-matic lawn-mulching/fertilizing
stubborn-as-a-summbitch units will be purchased fairly soon.  They're a bit
smelly, but have horns for...well, whatever.

Later,
Hugh




------------------------------

From AGault@aol.com Fri Jun  9 00:05 PDT 1995
Subject: playing around

i am going to fool around with my hawk this weekend and i was woundering if
there are any FREE thigs that i can do to the bike to make it faster , carb
adj, airbox tricks, etc   thanks



------------------------------

From Gumby647@aol.com Fri Jun  9 06:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Head work for Hawks

    Hey,

   The bible of 4-stroke tuning books is available form Classic 
Motorbooks #1-800-826-6600 for $26.95. The proper name is
Performance Tuning In Theory & Practice :Four Stroke by A. Graham
Bell. Revised 1989.


                                                                   Gumby



------------------------------

From goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us Fri Jun  9 07:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Head work for Hawks

 Performance Tuning In Theory & Practice :Four Stroke by A. Graham
 Bellis also available throught the Whitehorse press, in Boston, MA (don't
 have the phone # at wrk with me).

 Matt/OH





------------------------------

From Kenneth.Lawas%analog.com@adi.analog.com Fri Jun  9 08:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Head work for Hawks


> From: Matt Goodman 
> 
>  Performance Tuning In Theory & Practice :Four Stroke by A. Graham
>  Bellis also available throught the Whitehorse press, in Boston, MA (don't
>  have the phone # at wrk with me).
> 
>  Matt/OH
> 


  From the Boston white pages:

      Whitehorse Press (24 Spice, Charlestown)
      (617) 241-5241

  -Ken
   kenneth.lawas@analog.com


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Fri Jun  9 09:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Group ride?

> 
> >> >Since I'm just a loser from Sacramento, I'd have to leave up to the
> >> >bay area peoples to figure out a ride course, meeting places, and
> >> >various stops/etc.
> >>
> >> Hrm.  Yuck.  We do have a good set of topo maps though.  The Wong ride in
> >> reverse would be kinda fun (UP Tunitas Cr. and Jameison Cr.).  Whatever.
> >>
> >I was thinking of a good COAST race down mines, as well. =)
> 
> AAAARHGHGGHG.  <---my thigh muscles at the end of this ride.

Yeah, it would be painful, but it would be a BLAST!  

Has anyone else ever coast raced besides me?

> >> Folks could certainly stay at my place if they have a sleeping
> >> bag/blankets.  We have some...maybe enough for 3 people.  With the living
> >> room and barn we have space for quite a few (+/-6 or 7), and it's a great
> >> place to have breakfast before a long ride.
> >
> >Hey, grooooooooovy.  I get the barn.
> >
> >Say, do you have any sheep?
> 
> Sorry, but our two fully organic, goat-o-matic lawn-mulching/fertilizing
> stubborn-as-a-summbitch units will be purchased fairly soon.  They're a bit
> smelly, but have horns for...well, whatever.


I'll just have to get a woman, instead.  Bummer.

Soon to come: why sheep are better than women. . . :)


Mike

--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Fri Jun  9 09:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: playing around

> 
> i am going to fool around with my hawk this weekend and i was woundering if
> there are any FREE thigs that i can do to the bike to make it faster , carb
> adj, airbox tricks, etc   thanks

Welll . . .  What kind of pipe do you have?  THere are a couple of
things to play with if you have the right pipe.

That sounded really nasty.  Lemme rephrase:

A Hawk is very adjustable when it is set up with correct pipes and
jetting.  There.

If you don't mind spening a couple of $$, like $5 tops, you can
do the poor man's rejet.  Throw the 138 from the front to the rear,
and buy a new 145 and put it in the front.  You effectively increase
each jet size by 6ish.  Then shim the needles up about 0.030", and
take out the pilot jet adjusters a turn or so.  Yank off the top
of that pesky airbox, and VOILA!!!  Instant jetting for a Hawk.

Cheap, too.

And I still get 50mpg.

This is only a temp fix for me.  One day, I'll actually spring for
the Factory kit for my bike.

Mike


------------------------------

From ckrieger@osf1.gmu.edu Fri Jun  9 10:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: playing around (fwd)

|> i am going to fool around with my hawk this weekend and i was woundering if
|> there are any FREE thigs that i can do to the bike to make it faster , carb
|> adj, airbox tricks, etc   thanks
|
|If you don't mind spening a couple of $$, like $5 tops, you can
|do the poor man's rejet.  Throw the 138 from the front to the rear,
|and buy a new 145 and put it in the front.  You effectively increase
|each jet size by 6ish.  Then shim the needles up about 0.030", and
|take out the pilot jet adjusters a turn or so.  Yank off the top
|of that pesky airbox, and VOILA!!!  Instant jetting for a Hawk.
|

I ordered the 145 jet from the local honda shop...$5.38  I also ordered
#45 pilot jets (slow jets in honda-speak), at the recomendation of the
hawk page.  My question is this:  Since I have the larger pilot jets, do
I just set them as the manual states for the regular jets?

I had the hawk (show room stock) dynoed at Summet Point two weekends
ago.  I plan on having it dynoed again at a local shop before I
install the parts and after.  That way I am using the same dyno each
time, and this shop will do an exhaust gass analysis too.  I presently
have a stock exhaust.  If anyone is in the DC area and would like to
loan me any of the many after market exhausts, I would dyno the bike
with them too.  I plan on scanning in the results and making them
available to this list.

-cliff



------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Fri Jun  9 10:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: playing around (fwd)

> 
> |> i am going to fool around with my hawk this weekend and i was woundering if
> |> there are any FREE thigs that i can do to the bike to make it faster , carb
> |> adj, airbox tricks, etc   thanks
> |
> |If you don't mind spening a couple of $$, like $5 tops, you can
> |do the poor man's rejet.  Throw the 138 from the front to the rear,
> |and buy a new 145 and put it in the front.  You effectively increase
> |each jet size by 6ish.  Then shim the needles up about 0.030", and
> |take out the pilot jet adjusters a turn or so.  Yank off the top
> |of that pesky airbox, and VOILA!!!  Instant jetting for a Hawk.
> |
> 
> I ordered the 145 jet from the local honda shop...$5.38  I also ordered
> #45 pilot jets (slow jets in honda-speak), at the recomendation of the
> hawk page.  My question is this:  Since I have the larger pilot jets, do
> I just set them as the manual states for the regular jets?
> 

This I don't know.  I'm running the stock Pilots (is this bad?).  Anyone
else?

> I had the hawk (show room stock) dynoed at Summet Point two weekends
> ago.  I plan on having it dynoed again at a local shop before I
> install the parts and after.  That way I am using the same dyno each
> time, and this shop will do an exhaust gass analysis too.  I presently
> have a stock exhaust.  If anyone is in the DC area and would like to
> loan me any of the many after market exhausts, I would dyno the bike
> with them too.  I plan on scanning in the results and making them
> available to this list.
> 



ALL HAIL GREAT CLIFF!!!!!  I'd love to get my hands on some dyno
charts of other hawks.  I'd like it even more if I could get my
own damn bike on a dyno as well, but I guess I'll have to benchmark
from the others.

THanks,

Mike

--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From ckrieger@osf1.gmu.edu Fri Jun  9 11:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: playing around (fwd)

|> I ordered the 145 jet from the local honda shop...$5.38  I also ordered
|> #45 pilot jets (slow jets in honda-speak), at the recomendation of the
|> hawk page.  My question is this:  Since I have the larger pilot jets, do
|> I just set them as the manual states for the regular jets?
|> 
|
|This I don't know.  I'm running the stock Pilots (is this bad?).  Anyone
|else?

According the parts guy at Manassas Honda (Kyaw Thin...a fellow
hawkster)  the pilot jets are used almost exclusivly for about the first
1/8 of a turn of the throtle.  The larger jets will give better off idle
performance.  I am not sure if the same effect can be acheived by just
turning them out a bit, but I figured that I would do it hte right way
since the parts are cheap.

|> I had the hawk (show room stock) dynoed at Summet Point two weekends
|> ago.  I plan on having it dynoed again at a local shop before I
|> install the parts and after.  That way I am using the same dyno each
|> time, and this shop will do an exhaust gass analysis too.  I presently
|> have a stock exhaust.  If anyone is in the DC area and would like to
|> loan me any of the many after market exhausts, I would dyno the bike
|> with them too.  I plan on scanning in the results and making them
|> available to this list.
|> 
|
|
|
|ALL HAIL GREAT CLIFF!!!!!  I'd love to get my hands on some dyno
|charts of other hawks.  I'd like it even more if I could get my
|own damn bike on a dyno as well, but I guess I'll have to benchmark
|from the others.

I don't have the chart infront fo me, but it seemed to test out at about
45-48 hp.  The problem with this traveling dyno was that they guy didn't
have the rpm connect working right, so I just have it based on tire
speed.  I think the more complete test the local (Rockville HD) will do
will be worth the effort and expense.  The "quick and dirty" estimate
for the dyno is $30-$40 compaired to the $15.  But I think that it might
end up being $100 well spent...especially if  I can get some cooperation
from the local hawksters on parts.

-cliff 


------------------------------

From CYNTHIA@diablo.adm.clarkson.edu Fri Jun  9 11:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Group ride?

> > >Say, do you have any sheep?
> > 
> > Sorry, but our two fully organic, goat-o-matic lawn-mulching/fertilizing
> > stubborn-as-a-summbitch units will be purchased fairly soon.  They're a bit
> > smelly, but have horns for...well, whatever.
> 
> 
> I'll just have to get a woman, instead.  Bummer.
> 
> Soon to come: why sheep are better than women. . . :)
> 
> 
> Mike

Mike -

I think you've been spending WAY TO MUCH time reading on r.m. !!

CJ

 


------------------------------

From DFJL@aol.com Mon Jun 12 09:30 PDT 1995
Subject: Request to be on mailing list

Sorry if the previous message was misdirected.  I'd like to be included in
the mailing list for the HAWKGT discussion group.  I've recently purchased an
88 after selling my 86VFR700.  I'm looking for parts and advice on mods.
Thank you in advance
dfjl@aol.com


------------------------------

From JPlott@aol.com Mon Jun 12 09:30 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: KERKER WHITE TIP

DC
     You might mention the Yamaha Carb cleaner.   It is a bit expensive...but
it works.. Just follow the directions on the container.

John


------------------------------

From Jakedj@aol.com Mon Jun 12 09:30 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Head work for Hawks

sorry..
Four Stroke Performance Tuning is published by Haynes.. home of the manual
which warns you about using "torches" in an incorrect fashion.
ISBN #0-85429-275-6
copyright 1991
sorry
jakedj


------------------------------

From MBRODESKY@SC9.intel.com Mon Jun 12 09:31 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Group ride?


I have a map and course that is pretty good. Its from a DOD ride I did
a long time ago.  It goes on 9 it crosses 17 gopes down south, then crosses
101 to metcaf(SP the one with the dirt bike track), to san filipe, then
back to the bay, or to mt hamiliton. 

Or you can do east basy ride by calavaras past lake, t0 85 to
tracey to some road that goes to the back of mt hammilton. Back to the bay.

micahe



------------------------------

From JPlott@aol.com Mon Jun 12 09:31 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: WTB: used side-stand for ...

Scott,
     You are much better off using the center stand anyway.  It keeps fuel in
the carbs in approximately the right place: you have less chance of fuel
draining out or leaking into places that the liquid should not be.  As for
the helmet:.....it was made (if it is a good one...and I don't think that you
would ride with anything less) to work ONE time.  Yes, of course it should be
replaced!!!! that is the father and MSF instructor coming out!

John


------------------------------

From peahat@mail.grove.ufl.edu Mon Jun 12 09:31 PDT 1995
Subject: rear sprocket

Hey y'all--
	I ordered the 520 conversion from Pro Tekk and got the stock 
gearing.  I ride on the highway (ugh!) a fair amount, and figured the 
stock gearing would make the engine (vibration, noise) less obtrusive.  I 
remember, however, that I could never get the Hawk to redline in top 
gear, which suggests that maybe the Honda engineers were off by a rear 
sprocket tooth or two.  
	I read a thing on rec.moto about somebody who lowered the gearing
on his Nighthawk and loves it.  Has anybody done the same with the Hawk? 
I could really use some extra rpm's coming out of some corners and 
improved acceleration would be a plus.  The highway sucks so bad I can't 
imagine how a higher engine speed could make it any worse.  Any 
comments?  suggestions?
todd




------------------------------

From goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us Mon Jun 12 09:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: playing around (fwd)

On Fri, 9 Jun 1995, Mike Nielsen wrote:

> This I don't know.  I'm running the stock Pilots (is this bad?).  Anyone
> else?

The larger slow jet is a band-aid (IMHO) to cover the low RPM flat spot.
If you don't have this flat spot, then running the stock slowjets is not
bad.
I personally think the flat spot is a needle problem, not a pilot circuit
problem. 
I have the dynojet kit in an otherwise stock Hawk (installed at a shop with
a dyno). It gained from 1 to 2.5 HP throughout the rev
range, with peak being about 2 higher (mine peaked at 49.5). HOWEVER, I
gained an ugly flat spot at around 3K. Raising the needle one clip solved
that problem (in fact, it made the low end buttery smooth). Thinking I was
the great tuner, I stuck the bike on the dyno again to see how many
horsepower i had gained. I lost 2 (according to the EGA, I was running too
rich). I tried several other combinations, dynoing all, none doing as well
horsepower wise as the shops initial setup. I eventually went back to my
first adjustment for drivability's sake.
 I should point out that the glithc was not that bad, but it was in a very
inconvenient spot for driving around the city. On the track, it was a non
issue.
 After reading about the slow jet fix on the Hawk page, I gave it a try,
lowering the needle one clip (to the shop's initial high-HP setting) and
going to a #48 slow jet. This also covers the flat spot but runs rich
enough to smell and will occaisionally stall when idling if the engine has
been run hard. I've not had a chance to dyno this setup. I might try the
#45 slow jets as a compromise. 
 While the above setting covers the flat spot, it doesn't have the same
"feel" down low that the higher needle had. What I would like to try is a
modified needle that is slightly thinner at the fat end. Anybody have a
miniature lathe? 
 All the above is with the dyno jet needle, I have no idea how the factory
or shimmed stock needles work

> damn bike on a dyno as well, but I guess I'll have to benchmark
> from the others.

All the above was inspired by this statement^^^ :)

Matt/OH

PS, I'll see if I can get some numbers from mine as well as the other
Hawks run at my shop's dyno (mine I have, will post if interested)





------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Mon Jun 12 10:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Flat Spots


I've always heard of others showing concern for the Hawk's
"flat spot" in the 3-4k range.  Having never experienced this,
could those of you having this problem brifly discuss what
has been done to the bike, particularly in the areas of
aftermarket modifications?

There seems to be a consensus that the flat spot is generated
by poorly shaped needles.  If this is the case, we could probably
get TBR to machine some new needles for Hawks and sell them at
exhorbinant prices :).  

Like I said, I've never seen or had this problem personally, but
it warrants attention.  FYI - I'm running a Supertrapp (which had
no flat spots with stock jetting) and 145/138 jets.  I have no
flat spots anywhere in the rev range.(or anywhere else on my
person, for that matter!! :)

Mike
--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From sturges@oasys.dt.navy.mil Mon Jun 12 10:10 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: rear sprocket

>Hey y'all--
>	I ordered the 520 conversion from Pro Tekk and got the stock 
>gearing.  I ride on the highway (ugh!) a fair amount, and figured the 
>stock gearing would make the engine (vibration, noise) less obtrusive.  I 
>remember, however, that I could never get the Hawk to redline in top 
>gear, which suggests that maybe the Honda engineers were off by a rear 
>sprocket tooth or two.

>Any comments?  suggestions?

    Yes. Properly tuned, even a stock Hawk should reach redline in top gear.
What tires have you mounted? Don't forget that bigger tires = taller gearing.

rich



------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Mon Jun 12 10:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: rear sprocket

     Todd,
     
     What kind of sprokets does Pro-Tekk use?  AFAM? Renthal?  Or are they
     "generic"?  How much lighter than stock are they?  I'm also interested
     in anyone who has lowered their gearing by a tooth or two.
     Interestingly enough I did the calculations on the gearing this past
     weekend:
     
     16 front/44 rear = 2.75 final drive ratio  (this is stock)
     
     16 front/45 rear = 2.8125  (i.e. 2.27% more rpm at a given speed)
     
     16 front/46 rear = 2.875  (i.e. 4.55% more rpm at a given speed)
     
     I'm told that although you can modify the front sprocket, it's
     usually not recommended because the chain is already making a
     tight enough turn anyway.
     
     Jeff


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: rear sprocket
Author:  nononononosenor  at INTERNET
Date:    6/12/95 10:04 AM


Hey y'all--
 I ordered the 520 conversion from Pro Tekk and got the stock 
gearing.  I ride on the highway (ugh!) a fair amount, and figured the 
stock gearing would make the engine (vibration, noise) less obtrusive.  I 
remember, however, that I could never get the Hawk to redline in top 
gear, which suggests that maybe the Honda engineers were off by a rear 
sprocket tooth or two.  
 I read a thing on rec.moto about somebody who lowered the gearing
on his Nighthawk and loves it.  Has anybody done the same with the Hawk? 
I could really use some extra rpm's coming out of some corners and 
improved acceleration would be a plus.  The highway sucks so bad I can't 
imagine how a higher engine speed could make it any worse.  Any 
comments?  suggestions?
todd
     
     



------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Mon Jun 12 10:55 PDT 1995
Subject: Boot recommendation


Well, my cheesy boots took a growler last night while I was
riding over 80 from Reno to Sacramento.  I was stretching
my leg, I touched the ground slightly, and cam into immediate
contact with a large bump.  Large enough to nearly shatter my heel
and tear the boot's heel clean off.

Needless to say, I need new ones.  Any recommendations out there?
I'm a total boot rookie.  I only bought a pair (and this was in
high school!) because my mother threw a tizzy if I didn't ride in 
full gear (go mom!).  I've had those little buggers for 6 years
or so now, and luckily, they've died, giving me a perfect opportunity
to upgrade.

Also, where's a good place to get them?  The best retail accessory
store around here is Cycle Gear in sacramento.  Anyone else local
to sac??

Thanks,

Mike - The bootless (and almost legless) wonder.
--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Mon Jun 12 11:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: rear sprocket

>Hey y'all--
>        I ordered the 520 conversion from Pro Tekk and got the stock
>gearing.  I ride on the highway (ugh!) a fair amount, and figured the
>stock gearing would make the engine (vibration, noise) less obtrusive.  I
>remember, however, that I could never get the Hawk to redline in top
>gear, which suggests that maybe the Honda engineers were off by a rear
>sprocket tooth or two.

Ummmm...I've NEVER had a problem redlining in 5th, even when completely
stock.  I suggest that the Honda engineers were just fine, and your
carburetors were improperly tuned, or somethin'.

>        I read a thing on rec.moto about somebody who lowered the gearing
>on his Nighthawk and loves it.  Has anybody done the same with the Hawk?
>I could really use some extra rpm's coming out of some corners and
>improved acceleration would be a plus.  The highway sucks so bad I can't
>imagine how a higher engine speed could make it any worse.  Any
>comments?  suggestions?

Yes.  15 tooth front sprocket, instead of 16, stock rear.  Even MORE of a
wheelie monster, and who needs to go faster than 110 mph anyway (dreaming
of that 6 speed tranny)?  Just ask for a TransAlp 15 tooth front
sprocket...oh durn, you got the Pro Tekk 520 conversion...I guess they
probably have a 15 tooth front for the Hawk tho...

Hugh




------------------------------

From shawn.downing@jhu.edu Mon Jun 12 11:50 PDT 1995

I'm new to the list so you've probably already discussed these points into
the ground but people never get tired of talking bikes anyway.

Synthetic oil for the Hawk. Any particular brands? Oil change intervals?

Also, valve adjustment intervals. I got the bike with 4,800 miles last
summer and I'm upto 12,800 now. I've never adjusted them and can only assume
they were done by the shop as he had the local Honda dealer do service. It
sounds perfectly fine right now. On some bikes they are very critical and
need regular adjustment (especially on my VW Beetle). What about the Hawk?
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Shawn Downing                               410.516.0070
PC Support Specialist                       410.516.0804 fax
                                            http://www.jhu.edu/~gifted
Center for Talented Youth
Johns Hopkins University
3400 North Charles Street
Baltimore, Maryland 21218
---------------------------------------------------------------------


------------------------------

From mudpuppy@gibbs.oit.unc.edu Mon Jun 12 12:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Boot recommendation (NOISE)

NOISE: Not Hawk Related
I've looked at lots of boots, and haven't been too impressed with most of
them.  Many have really lousy glued-on soles.  It these were to get too
hot, you'd be in trouble.

If I buy a new pair, it'll probably be a pair of Bates.  They custom make
them to fit your feet for $175.  $30 more in colors.   I've never seen
them, but have read a good review on motorcycle.com's web server.

Most of the boots that I've seen for less than $150 have not been a good value.

I'd like to hear about other boots that folks recommend.  I've seen some
Fieldsheer ones that looked ok.

I wear Black Motocross Boots that are so old they have a Vibram sole.
Enduro boots, I guess.  "Garage sale specials".

Phil

Phil Calvin     DoD #242   '91 HawkGT
Env. Sci. and Eng., UNC-Chapel Hill




------------------------------

From SSwee28765@aol.com Mon Jun 12 12:20 PDT 1995
Subject: BIKES RULE

HAWKGT@dsea.com.
I love Bikes


------------------------------

From vgregory@mckinley Mon Jun 12 12:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re:  Boot recommendation

If you're thinking of getting actual motorcycle boots, rather than
work/engineer boots, Z Custom Leathers (not exactly in the area)
custom builds boots to your measurements.  Their prices are pretty
comparable to the stores', as low as $179 (I think), mine were
$219 with those purty two-color squiggles on the side ;).  If you
have hard-to-fit feet, this could be your best choice.  Being
female, it's really hard to find boots that fit in the stores,
and my husband, with extremely narrow feet and in need of more
structure to any of his footwear than is normally provided, had no
luck finding something that would fit.  He got Z Custom to work
with a local (to us) orthopedic shoe maker, and although the final
price was certainly higher than $200, he now has a pair of boots
that fit, and don't put his feet in agony by the end of the day.

You probably don't have either of the above problems, but the
prices are reasonable, and they do a terrific job on fit.

Don't have the address available, but they're in Huntington Beach, CA.

Val Gregory
'90 Hawk GT - "Redtailed"
DoD #1258


------------------------------

From JPlott@aol.com Mon Jun 12 12:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Boot recommendation

Mike,
     Sorry for the problem; glad that your leg is still in one piece.  The
best boots that I have had for many years is my Mike Corbin boots.  I do not
know if they are still available.  They are great for riding, walking,
protection and the heel won't come off.  Come to think about it that might be
bad.  Better the heel than your leg.

John


------------------------------

From JPlott@aol.com Mon Jun 12 12:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: rear sprocket

I am going to disagree with Hugh on this one.  Please use the largest front
sprocket that will fit into the space.  "Muck" about with the rear (more
teeth) to change the ratio.  The transition of your chain is healthier with
the larger sprocket on the front: go to 17 if it will fit.

John


------------------------------

From JPlott@aol.com Mon Jun 12 12:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: playing around (fwd)

Well said Rich.....

John


------------------------------

From mgiffin@dee.retix.com Mon Jun 12 12:50 PDT 1995
Subject: 520 chain conversion info

520 chain conversion info
-------------------------

I paraphrased the following information from Todd Chambery:

A 520 chain conversion for the Hawk is available from
Pro Tekk at 1 800 PRO TEKK. Includes chain and both 
sprockets. Front sprocket is steel, rear is 7071(?)
aluminum. Rear is available in gold or silver. I don't
know what brand of sprocket these are, and I assume they 
are the stock sizes. I also don't know what kind of chain
it is. Call Pro Tekk.

The cost, including shipping to FL, was apparently about 
$122.

----------
By the way, last week I priced a stock chain and sprockets
from the Honda dealer in Santa Monica, CA (near L.A.), and
here are the results:

	Rear sprocket:   $41.40
	Front sprocket:   26.90
	Chain (endless
               o-ring):  111.54
	------------------------
                 total: $179.84

Mark Giffin
mgiffin@retix.com



------------------------------

From JPlott@aol.com Mon Jun 12 12:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: No Subject

Shawn,  Motorcycle Consumer News had a report on several oils several issues
ago.  Mobil 1 came out on top....even it should be changed every 1500 to 2000
miles.  This is due to the viscosity loss.  Even the "Motorcycle Only" oils
came out significantly lower than the Mobil 1.

John   Red 89


------------------------------

From Jakedj@aol.com Mon Jun 12 15:45 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: 520 chain conversion info

>Rear sprocket:   $41.40
>Front sprocket:   26.90
>Chain (endless
>              o-ring):  111.54
 ------------------------
>                total: $179.84

These seem to be the stock Honda prices. You can often get a much better
deal.  I have a dealer in Virginia who made me a package deal on the whole
shebang (sprocket,sprocket and chain) for $130!

I think keeping the chain stock at approximately the same price is a better
deal.  I like keeping the bike stock tho......

Jakedj



------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Mon Jun 12 15:45 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: rear sprocket

Hmmm...sure, makes sense.  Less bend angle.  I have had no troubles with
the 15, however.  And many sprocket makers offer a 15 or 16 for the Hawk,
but no 17.  If you got a 17 on the front, you'd need to go up at least 5
teeth on the rear to give the same ratio as the 15 tooth front.  That's a
honkin' big rear sprocket.  Conversely, fine tuning with the rear sprocket
is much simpler than the front.

Hugh

Whatever floats yer boat (spins your Dunlop?)

>I am going to disagree with Hugh on this one.  Please use the largest front
>sprocket that will fit into the space.  "Muck" about with the rear (more
>teeth) to change the ratio.  The transition of your chain is healthier with
>the larger sprocket on the front: go to 17 if it will fit.




------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Mon Jun 12 15:45 PDT 1995
Subject: Re[2]: rear sprocket


>I am going to disagree with Hugh on this one.  Please use the largest front 
>sprocket that will fit into the space.  "Muck" about with the rear (more 
>teeth) to change the ratio.  The transition of your chain is healthier with 
>the larger sprocket on the front: go to 17 if it will fit.

I agree with John, do not go with less teeth on the front.  However, by going
to 17 teeth you instantly raise the stock ratio from 2.75 to 2.588.  You would
have to go 3 extra teeth on the rear sprocket at that point just to get back
to a "stock" (2.765) ratio.  I think you're better off leaving the front
spocket with 16 teeth and adding 1 or 2 teeth to the rear (if you have to do
it in the first place).

Jeff



------------------------------

From AGault@aol.com Mon Jun 12 15:45 PDT 1995
Subject: help

somebody please help me.  i have played with this bike and i am at at a loss.
 i took the adviced of a fellow hawk rider and drilled out the air box.  i
like the sound and at high rpm's i can feel a increase.  i will be the first
to admit that when it comes to motorcycles i am a little stupid.  i tried to
find the set screws to richen out the carbs but all i could find were two
holes one on the left one on the right.  i drilled out the stops and it just
looked like a empty channel.  if they are correct do you need a special tool
or what.  also i seem to developed a clicking that sounds like it is coming
from the engine it is especially noticably around 3 to 4 thousand rpm.  one
last thing.  i am taking the bike to the shop to get the carbs
overhauled,bike sat for three years, can they adjust the carbs to work better
with the better air set up.  i also want to add a uni air filter but it
hardly runs at low rpm's now  can they compensate for the air increase or do
i have to do it myself    thanks for any replys   i am in the process of
slowly learning


------------------------------

From AGault@aol.com Mon Jun 12 15:45 PDT 1995
Subject: Fwd: help


---------------------
Forwarded message:
Subj:    help
Date:    95-06-12 18:08:21 EDT
From:    AGault
To:      hawkgt@dsea.com

somebody please help me.  i have played with this bike and i am at at a loss.
 i took the adviced of a fellow hawk rider and drilled out the air box.  i
like the sound and at high rpm's i can feel a increase.  i will be the first
to admit that when it comes to motorcycles i am a little stupid.  i tried to
find the set screws to richen out the carbs but all i could find were two
holes one on the left one on the right.  i drilled out the stops and it just
looked like a empty channel.  if they are correct do you need a special tool
or what.  also i seem to developed a clicking that sounds like it is coming
from the engine it is especially noticably around 3 to 4 thousand rpm.  one
last thing.  i am taking the bike to the shop to get the carbs
overhauled,bike sat for three years, can they adjust the carbs to work better
with the better air set up.  i also want to add a uni air filter but it
hardly runs at low rpm's now  can they compensate for the air increase or do
i have to do it myself    thanks for any replys   i am in the process of
slowly learning


------------------------------

From Victor.A.King@dartvax.dartmouth.edu Mon Jun 12 16:35 PDT 1995
Subject: mike v's address


hey does anyone know mike velasco's email address, phone number, or mail
address?

thanks.

S

88 Bleu
DHOG #001


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Mon Jun 12 16:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: 520 chain conversion info

> 
> >Rear sprocket:   $41.40
> >Front sprocket:   26.90
> >Chain (endless
> >              o-ring):  111.54
>  ------------------------
> >                total: $179.84
> 
> These seem to be the stock Honda prices. You can often get a much better
> deal.  I have a dealer in Virginia who made me a package deal on the whole
> shebang (sprocket,sprocket and chain) for $130!
> 
> I think keeping the chain stock at approximately the same price is a better
> deal.  I like keeping the bike stock tho......


>From Pro Tekk directly:

Rear Sprocket: $39.95
Front Sprocket: $19.95
Chain: ~$60.00

Total kit (chain, both sprockets): $120.00  (if memory serves)

I promise that I'm within $10 here. 

Oh, and you can pick whatever sprocket size you want, too.  They'll
also get you better chains if you want them (the standard chain is
a DID S O-ring chain).

Have a ball!!

Mike



--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From amail.amdahl.com!james.lyau@juts.ccc.amdahl.com Mon Jun 12 17:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Boot recommendation

 

I ride with a Bieffe Classic boot.  It's your basic no-frills moto boot in
non-squidly all black color.  If you're looking for just a basic boot that
will protect your feet without the flash, this is the one.  Motorcyclist rated
it a best buy!  You can usually find it for about $100.  This boot even rated
higher that some other boots that cost more!  BTW, the sole is a one piece,
meaning there's not glued heel that could tear off.

James
'89 RC-31 "Ride Red"


------------------------------

From BarnettD@aol.com Mon Jun 12 21:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: BIKES RULE

You said it!

-d


------------------------------

From mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil Tue Jun 13 04:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: 520 chain conversion info

>A 520 chain conversion for the Hawk is available from
>Pro Tekk at 1 800 PRO TEKK. Includes chain and both 
>sprockets. Front sprocket is steel, rear is 7071(?)
>aluminum. Rear is available in gold or silver. I don't
>know what brand of sprocket these are, and I assume they 
>are the stock sizes. I also don't know what kind of chain
>it is. Call Pro Tekk.

>The cost, including shipping to FL, was apparently about 
>$122.

So, it sounds to me like you have to buy the "chain conversion" 
every time you replace your chain and sprockets, is that right?

>By the way, last week I priced a stock chain and sprockets
>from the Honda dealer in Santa Monica, CA (near L.A.), and
>here are the results:
>
>	Rear sprocket:   $41.40
>	Front sprocket:   26.90
>	Chain (endless
>               o-ring):  111.54
>	------------------------
>                 total: $179.84

These items should be quite a bit cheaper from a mail-order Honda
dealer, like Competition Accessories.

David Mackintosh      '82 245 Turbo  '92 Sovereign  '95 Moda  '89 Hawk GT
mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil            Germantown, MD, USA       DoD #1360



------------------------------

From sturges@oasys.dt.navy.mil Tue Jun 13 05:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Fwd: help

AGault@aol.com writes...

>somebody please help me.  i have played with this bike and i am at at a loss.

   Please please please include your address in any post that are selling,
buying, or requesting that work be done on your bike. The list is worldwide,
but I'm not.

rich



------------------------------

From heaven@pogo.den.mmc.com Tue Jun 13 05:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Carbs

Forwarded message:
> From AGault@aol.com Mon Jun 12 17:34 MDT 1995
> From: AGault@aol.com
> 
> somebody please help me.  i have played with this bike and i am at at a loss.
>  i took the adviced of a fellow hawk rider and drilled out the air box.  i
> like the sound and at high rpm's i can feel a increase.  i will be the first
> to admit that when it comes to motorcycles i am a little stupid.  i tried to
> find the set screws to richen out the carbs but all i could find were two
> holes one on the left one on the right.  i drilled out the stops and it just
> looked like a empty channel.  if they are correct do you need a special tool
> or what.  also i seem to developed a clicking that sounds like it is coming
> from the engine it is especially noticably around 3 to 4 thousand rpm.  one
> last thing.  i am taking the bike to the shop to get the carbs
> overhauled,bike sat for three years, can they adjust the carbs to work better
> with the better air set up.  i also want to add a uni air filter but it
> hardly runs at low rpm's now  can they compensate for the air increase or do
> i have to do it myself    thanks for any replys   i am in the process of
> slowly learning
> 
     In the last few years of racing, I have learned one basic axiom:
     most parts of a motor operate in a synergistic manner and you
     need to have basic understanding of the operational interrelation-
     ships when making performance modifications.

     Your best bet if you can afford it is to find a good tuner with  
     a dyno who can set up your carbs.  In most cases this person is
     not a wrench at a dealer, and the best way to find a good one
     is to get references from racers in your area.  By using an
     exhaust sniffer and examining the shape fo the power curves
     he can figure out where the problems are and adjust your carbs
     accordingly.  Ask if you can stay and watch, this can be
     the best way to get good information quickly.  

     If you cannot afford a mechanic, buy the factory shop service
     manual.  remove the carbs from the bike, then remove the slides
     and bowls.  Place all parts on a clean sheet in the order in
     which they came out while referencing the manual exploded view
     so you will be able to put all the parts back in the right order.
     Clean everything with carb cleaner and reassemble, paying
     particular attention to the smooth operation of moving parts
     such as the float valve and slides.  Once it is back together,
     the manual will tell you which carb caps to remove to access
     the air screws (you may have pulled the wrong ones).  Pull
     these while the carbs are off the bike, and lubricate the 
     throttle mechanism with a light oil.  Now put it all back
     together.  Adjusting the air screws will only affect the
     idle to about 2000 rpm range.  If the bike runs well there
     don't mess with them.  

     Now ride and enjoy.

     Brian Heaven  heaven@pogo.den.mmc.com


------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Tue Jun 13 07:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: rear sprocket

>      Todd,
>      
>      What kind of sprokets does Pro-Tekk use?  AFAM? Renthal?  Or are they
>      "generic"?  How much lighter than stock are they?  

Pro-Tekk's sprockets are their own.  I haven't weighed them or anything, 
but I"d imagine they are significantly lighter than the stock boat 
anchors.  They are not "generic", as you put it.

Somebody mentioned my $75 quote from Pro-tekk.  That was a wholesale 
price, and frankly, I"m not sure if it included a chain.  I thought I 
stated this at the time.....

I have a nice table that Pro-Tekk sent me cross-referncing sprocket sizes 
to final ratios.  I"ll try to pst it if anyone would like.

DC



------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Tue Jun 13 07:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: KERKER WHITE TIP

On Fri, 9 Jun 1995 JPlott@aol.com wrote:

> DC
>      You might mention the Yamaha Carb cleaner.   It is a bit expensive...but
> it works.. Just follow the directions on the container.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 
True- this is excellent stuff.  However, it is expensive and hard to find 
on the shelf at many dealers, since few customers clean their own carbs.  
If you can get it or order it, definitely do so.

On the other hand (this from the Cheap Bastard Racing tip....):  I 
personally use Top Job.  No kidding.  Cleans carbs like nobody's 
business.  The only disadvantage is that it will oxidize the aluminum if 
left soaking for more than a few hours.  Used carefully, it has served me 
well and cheaply.

Of course, now that I"ve said this, somebody is probably going to go out 
and ruin a set of carbs and blame me....

DC



------------------------------

From CYNTHIA@diablo.adm.clarkson.edu Tue Jun 13 07:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Boot recommendation

> From:           Mike Nielsen 
> Subject:        Boot recommendation


Geeezzz Mike a sh*tty week and then you trash your boots (and almost 
leg) not good.

I just bought a pair of Hein Gericke boots, yes mens.  I happen to be 
graced with "wide" feet and mens 6.5 usually fit nicely.  Had to get 
a 7 in the boots and put in some Dr. Scholls.  The workmanship on the 
boots is very good and although I haven't fully broken them in yet 
they're comfortable already.  Basic black, small heel .5 - .75 
something like that.  $125 from Comp Access.

How was Lake Tahoe??

CJ







------------------------------

From goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us Tue Jun 13 07:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: playing around (fwd)

On Mon, 12 Jun 1995, Rich Sturges wrote:

> >The larger slow jet is a band-aid (IMHO) to cover the low RPM flat spot.
> >If you don't have this flat spot, then running the stock slowjets is not
> >bad.
> 
>     The circuitry of a carb involves many complex relationships. The slow
> jet is not a band-aid, it's part of the equation.

I didn't state that very well, or at least the thought was separated by my
other blathering. My intention was to satate that while the slow jet is a
fix, I think a subtly different needle shape at the fat end is a better
fix. Unfortunately, it isn't an easy fix.

>     You want to make VERY small changes in the needle. It can be done with sand-
> paper, but don't try it unless you have spares.

If tweeking the idle screws doesn't help, this is my next step. I'm
determined to get it tuned correctly, if for no other reason than I'm
learning quite a bit. I'm keeping lots of notes!

Matt/OH





------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Tue Jun 13 07:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: 520 chain conversion info

On Tue, 13 Jun 1995, David Mackintosh wrote:

> >A 520 chain conversion for the Hawk is available from
> >Pro Tekk at 1 800 PRO TEKK. 

> 
> So, it sounds to me like you have to buy the "chain conversion" 
> every time you replace your chain and sprockets, is that right?
> 

Well, it's not like there is something special about the "conversion."  
It's just different size sprockets.  You can buy anything you like when 
you change your chain and sprockets.

> These items should be quite a bit cheaper from a mail-order Honda
> dealer, like Competition Accessories.
> 
Try pinning down your local boys before you go mail-order.  There are 
plenty of aftermarket parts available for most bikes, it's just that the 
$5 parts guys rarely are motivated to find them for you.  Make them look, 
or ask for the manager, or ask me- I have most parts books, and can find 
out if aftermarket stuff is available or not.  I find keeping your 
business local is often better in the long run.

C ya
DC



------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Tue Jun 13 07:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Boot recommendation (NOISE)

I race in a pair of Alpinestars GP-Pros.  not the fancy Schwantz-replica 
things they have now- I bought these about 5 years ago, and have not been 
able to kill them yet.  I added a pair of Dr. Scholl's Fluffy Insole 
Thingys (tm), and they are really comfortable.  Unlike the current Alps, 
they have a sole about as thick as my Converse All-Stars, which means you 
can walk more then 100 feet in them without wearing through the 
unreplaceable sole.  As long as you're conservative in how much you walk 
around in them, they seem to wear just fine.

If you have a friend at a dealer, this is the kind of thing to find on a 
close-out someplace.  A friend of mine bought a new set 6 months ago for 
$100 from Moto-Race in Massachusetts.  A few phone calls might find a set 
lurking in the warehouse....

C ya
DC



------------------------------

From welder@rahul.net Tue Jun 13 08:25 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Boot recommendation

> 
> Needless to say, I need new ones.  Any recommendations out there?

[snip]

> 
> Also, where's a good place to get them?  The best retail accessory
> store around here is Cycle Gear in sacramento.  Anyone else local
> to sac??
> 

If you want absolute top quality riding apparel of any kind (suits, 
boots, and gloves mainly) the best place around (the SF Bay Area) is 
Helimot European Accessories in San Jose, CA (They'll do mail/phone 
orders also!).  

As far as their boots go, I highly recommend their Daytona street boot.  
I forget the model name, but it's the one with two zippers up the front.  
They're comfortable enough to wear all day long, riding or not.  They are 
almost as comfy as my tennies.  They are available in plain black and a 
mixture of other colors.  The only possible drawback is that they are a 
little on the pricey side, around $200 if memory serves.

If you are looking for more of a "track" type boot then look into the 
Daytona race boots, Helimot has several different types.  Actually, 
Helimot is the sole US importer for these boots.

Helimot can be reached at (408) 298-9608.

Dean - A (VERY!) satisfied customer


------------------------------

From blarney@wwa.com Tue Jun 13 09:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: KERKER WHITE TIP (fwd)

> 
> On Fri, 9 Jun 1995 JPlott@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > DC
> > You might mention the Yamaha Carb cleaner.   It is a bit expensive...but
> > it works.. Just follow the directions on the container.
> > 
> > John
> > 
> > 
> True- this is excellent stuff.  However, it is expensive and hard to find 
> on the shelf at many dealers, since few customers clean their own carbs.  
> If you can get it or order it, definitely do so.

> On the other hand (this from the Cheap Bastard Racing tip....):  I 
> personally use Top Job.  No kidding.  Cleans carbs like nobody's 
> business.  The only disadvantage is that it will oxidize the aluminum if 
> left soaking for more than a few hours.  Used carefully, it has served me 
> well and cheaply.
> 
> Of course, now that I"ve said this, somebody is probably going to go out 
> and ruin a set of carbs and blame me....
> 
> DC
> 
Not that you Shouldn't clean your carbs with Top Job and then blame Daniel,
but if it's any help, the Yamaha stuff is called 'Carburetor Cleaner',
in a 1 qt. white plastic bottle, part # ACC-1101-43-00, $9.95. 

I tried one Yamaha dealer and they had never heard of it, yet another,
larger place had it on the shelf, so shop around.
Seemed to work well on my CB550.

Carolyn Cullen
blarney@wwa.com        DoD#0450        '89 Hawk GT        '77 CB550K 


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Tue Jun 13 09:10 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: 520 chain conversion info

> > So, it sounds to me like you have to buy the "chain conversion" 
> > every time you replace your chain and sprockets, is that right?
> > 
> 
> Well, it's not like there is something special about the "conversion."  
> It's just different size sprockets.  You can buy anything you like when 
> you change your chain and sprockets.

Actually, you can buy the kit in pieces, if you'd like.  If you wear
out the rear sprocket before the front, then you can buy a new
rear without buying a new chain and front, etc.

> > These items should be quite a bit cheaper from a mail-order Honda
> > dealer, like Competition Accessories.
> > 
> Try pinning down your local boys before you go mail-order.  There are 
> plenty of aftermarket parts available for most bikes, it's just that the 
> $5 parts guys rarely are motivated to find them for you.  Make them look, 
> or ask for the manager, or ask me- I have most parts books, and can find 
> out if aftermarket stuff is available or not.  I find keeping your 
> business local is often better in the long run.

Damn it.  I posted a massive letter including a price breakdown to the
list that apparently never made it.  ------

1-800-PRO-TEKK

Front Sprocket: $19.95
Rear Sprocket: $39.95
Chain (DID S O-ring): $60

Total: ~$120.00

You can also get better quality chains (DID X-ring, for example), 
and order any size sprocket you want.  CALLL THE FACTORY DIRECTLY
FOR THE BEST PRICES!!!!!!!!  They will offer better prices than
will any local dealer, not by much, but enough to make up for
the shipping and still save you about $10.

re: keeping business local.  I couldn't agree more, but I don't have th
money to do it.  If dealers became a bit more reasonable, then I could
start affording my habits locally! :)

Mike



------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Tue Jun 13 09:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Boot recommendation

>>
>> Needless to say, I need new ones.  Any recommendations out there?
>
>[snip]
>
[munch]
>
>If you want absolute top quality riding apparel of any kind (suits,
>boots, and gloves mainly) the best place around (the SF Bay Area) is
>Helimot European Accessories in San Jose, CA (They'll do mail/phone
>orders also!).

[crunch]

>Dean - A (VERY!) satisfied customer

I agree with Dean, Helimot is the best around these parts.  Great customer
service (almost TOO great!), and high quality stuff.  Not cheap, but top
notch.

Boots:
I really love my Carnac Herve Moineau boots...extra tall, simple black,
wear in like gloves.

Hugh




------------------------------

From MEL1523@ACS.TAMU.EDU Tue Jun 13 11:45 PDT 1995
Subject: Carb-Blow Apart (drawing!)

;
;     Your best bet if you can afford it is to find a good tuner with  
;     a dyno who can set up your carbs.  In most cases this person is
;     not a wrench at a dealer, and the best way to find a good one
;     is to get references from racers in your area.  By using an
;     exhaust sniffer and examining the shape fo the power curves
;     he can figure out where the problems are and adjust your carbs
;     accordingly.  Ask if you can stay and watch, this can be
;     the best way to get good information quickly.  

Good advice.

;     If you cannot afford a mechanic, buy the factory shop service
;     manual.  remove the carbs from the bike, then remove the slides
;     and bowls.  Place all parts on a clean sheet in the order in
;     which they came out while referencing the manual exploded view
;     so you will be able to put all the parts back in the right order.
;     Clean everything with carb cleaner and reassemble, paying
;     particular attention to the smooth operation of moving parts
;     such as the float valve and slides.  Once it is back together,
;     the manual will tell you which carb caps to remove to access
;     the air screws (you may have pulled the wrong ones).  Pull
;     these while the carbs are off the bike, and lubricate the 
;     throttle mechanism with a light oil.  Now put it all back
;     together.  Adjusting the air screws will only affect the
;     idle to about 2000 rpm range.  If the bike runs well there
;     don't mess with them.  

I scanned that blow-apart from the manual and it's on the web page.

 - Mitch



------------------------------

From land@phoenix.cs.uga.edu Tue Jun 13 11:55 PDT 1995
Subject: Got me a Hawk!

Could somebody please include me in this mailing list?  I looked for a 
hawk for quite awhile and finally nabbed me one...and it was here in town 
no less!

It's a 1988, but it was bought new in 1991.  It only has 7000 miles on 
it.  The people who had it basically didn't know how to maintain it so 
thankfully they didn't ride it enough to get anything hurt.  

I would like to learn some more about these machines, so I look forward 
to getting on this list.

Thanks in advance.

Ceci
land@phoenix.cs.uga.edu ....or....land@bchiris.biochem.uga.edu



------------------------------

From gennari@universe.net.hawaii.edu Tue Jun 13 12:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Problems with hawkGT mailing list

> Damn it.  I posted a massive letter including a price breakdown to the
> list that apparently never made it.  ------

This has happened to me twice. >-(  Oh Mr. Administrator .....
When my posts do get through I get about 3 copies back and one
of them is full of error messages about user unknown, apparently people 
who no longer have accounts.

What's is the admin's email? I'll send a more detailed message about the
error messages upon request.

Thanks,
Scott Gennari

------------------------------------------------------------------
University of Hawaii                      voice (808) 956 5392
Dept. of Information & Computer Sciences  fax   (808) 956 9399 
2565 The Mall, Keller 304A               
Honolulu, HI 96822                        email gennari@Hawaii.Edu



------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Tue Jun 13 12:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Got me a Hawk! (fwd)


Oh mighty listmeister:

Could you add the person below to the list?  Thanks.

Mike

> 
> Could somebody please include me in this mailing list?  I looked for a 
> hawk for quite awhile and finally nabbed me one...and it was here in town 
> no less!
> 
> It's a 1988, but it was bought new in 1991.  It only has 7000 miles on 
> it.  The people who had it basically didn't know how to maintain it so 
> thankfully they didn't ride it enough to get anything hurt.  
> 
> I would like to learn some more about these machines, so I look forward 
> to getting on this list.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Ceci
> land@phoenix.cs.uga.edu ....or....land@bchiris.biochem.uga.edu
> 
> 


--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From JPlott@aol.com Tue Jun 13 13:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Carbs

Nice reply Brian. Also, enjoyed your piece in HAWKWORKS.  The only thing that
I would add to this patient comment is:  If a "friend" advises you to do
anything that is not reversable (drilling holes in the air box) ...don't do
it.  If you "KNOW" that something will have a desired result...it is your
machine.  If you do not know...don't do it until you do know.

John   Red 89


------------------------------

From TPNB25A@mail.prodigy.com Tue Jun 13 14:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Where is the Web page?

-- [ From: R. Hunsberger * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] --

>	I scanned that blow-apart from the manual and it's on the web page.

I've seen several references to a Hawk Web page, but no address.  Could
someone please post it?

Thanks,
Randy H.			'90 Red Hawk	'89 TransAlp

tpnb25a@prodigy.com





------------------------------

From Jakedj@aol.com Tue Jun 13 14:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Carburator Cleaner

SIGH....

They just dont make carburator cleaner like they used to.......Something
about Carol Browner running the EPA.........

The best carb cleaner ive ever used was a homebrewblend  of MEK and Xylene.
 This stuff is reallllllly nasty.. Use it 1:1 and wear goggles and other
protective devices.

You can buy those chemicals at your friendly hardware store... Dont tell them
what you are using them for.  : ) A gallon of the homebrew usually costs
about $10 to make up.....

Jakedj


------------------------------

From Jakedj@aol.com Tue Jun 13 14:40 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: 520 chain conversion info

Mike wrote:
>re: keeping business local.  I couldn't agree more, but I don't >have th
>money to do it.  If dealers became a bit more reasonable, then >I could
>start affording my habits locally! :)

I couldn't agree with you more Mike.  I have tried to buy stuff locally, but
have literally been sickened by the prices.

I went to buy spark plugs and chain goo at the local dealer.  I was charged
$5.00 a plug, and $7.00 for the goo (which is not all that bad).  I had also
tried on a $350 Shoei RF-200 (which was outrageous)

The owner of the shop said to me as I was leaving "Remember who had those
plugs in stock when you buy your helmet Mail Order".  Needless to say, I tore
into him for his terrible pricing.  I mean, I'd buy a $200 Shoei RF-200 to
keep business local, but $350 for a plain black one?

Jakedj


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Tue Jun 13 14:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Carburator Cleaner

> The best carb cleaner ive ever used was a homebrewblend  of MEK and Xylene.
>  This stuff is reallllllly nasty.. Use it 1:1 and wear goggles and other
> protective devices.

ACK!!!!!!!!  THis stuff will eat through most protective devices, except
maybe steel.  I've made the mistake of using it on things to clean up
resin from a floor: It dissolved the floor, and left the resin!!! (This
was with MEK only.  The combo sounds nasty . . .)

> 
> You can buy those chemicals at your friendly hardware store... Dont tell them
> what you are using them for.  : ) A gallon of the homebrew usually costs
> about $10 to make up.....

Scary stuff.  Use at your own risk. :)

Seriously, I wouldn't do this unless you have the above mentioned safety
goggles, and gloves, a hat (to prevent premature hair loss), jeans, a long
sleeve shirt, etc.  

Maybe it can double as an explosive???
(JUST KIDDING!!!)


Mike



--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Tue Jun 13 15:20 PDT 1995
Subject: undeliverable mail (fwd)


Hey, Frank:

Here's a new and exciting one for ya.  I've never seen an autoresponder
that scolded you for looking up terminated employees!! :)

Thanks,

Mike

> 
> 
> Mike Baxter, baxter@spdc.ti.com, is no longer a TI employee.  
> 
> Please remove his name if he is on a mailing list or broadcast MSGID.
> >From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com  Tue Jun 13 17:01:21 1995
> Return-Path: 
> Received: from spdc.ti.com (cauldron) by epcot.spdc.ti.com (4.1/SMI-4.1)
> 	id AA27690; Tue, 13 Jun 95 17:01:21 CDT
> Received: from tlsun5a.itg.ti.com by spdc.ti.com (4.1/SMI-4.1)
> 	id AA26773; Tue, 13 Jun 95 17:01:20 CDT
> Received: from gate.ti.com (ti.com [192.94.94.33]) by tlsun5a.itg.ti.com (8.6.11/8.6.11) with ESMTP id RAA05736 for ; Tue, 13 Jun 1995 17:02:29 -0500
> Received: from netcomsv.netcom.com (uumail3.netcom.com [163.179.3.53]) by gate.ti.com (8.6.10/) with ESMTP id RAA28590 for ; Tue, 13 Jun 1995 17:02:17 -0500
> Received: from chalice.firewall.dsea.com by netcomsv.netcom.com with ESMTP (8.6.12/SMI-4.1)
> 	id OAA24679; Tue, 13 Jun 1995 14:58:40 -0700
> Received: (uucp@localhost) by chalice.firewall.dsea.com (8.6.9/8.6.9) id OAA00992; Tue, 13 Jun 1995 14:56:13 -0700
> Received: from server.firewall.dsea.com(204.30.91.194) by chalice.firewall.dsea.com via smap (V1.3mjr)
> 	id smad00978; Tue Jun 13 14:55:22 1995
> Received: (from uucp@localhost) by server.eng.dsea.com (8.6.9/8.6.9) id OAA09638 for ; Tue, 13 Jun 1995 14:50:01 -0700
> Received: from chalice.firewall.dsea.com(204.30.91.193) by server.eng.dsea.com via smap (V1.3mjr)
> 	id sma009627; Tue Jun 13 14:49:58 1995
> Received: (uucp@localhost) by chalice.firewall.dsea.com (8.6.9/8.6.9) id OAA00969 for ; Tue, 13 Jun 1995 14:55:11 -0700
> Received: from hp.com(15.255.152.4) by chalice.firewall.dsea.com via smap (V1.3mjr)
> 	id sma000945; Tue Jun 13 14:53:38 1995
> Received: from hprnd.rose.hp.com by hp.com with ESMTP
> 	(1.37.109.16/15.5+ECS 3.3) id AA080610479; Tue, 13 Jun 1995 14:54:40 -0700
> Received: by hprnd.rose.hp.com
> 	(1.37.109.14/15.5+ECS 3.3) id AA277960478; Tue, 13 Jun 1995 14:54:38 -0700
> From: Mike Nielsen 
> Message-Id: <199506132154.AA277960478@hprnd.rose.hp.com>
> Subject: Re: Carburator Cleaner
> To: Jakedj@aol.com
> Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 14:54:37 PDT
> Cc: hawkgt@dsea.com (HawkGT Mailing list)
> In-Reply-To: <950613173707_70064357@aol.com>; from "Jakedj@aol.com" at Jun 13, 95 5:37 pm
> X-Mailer: Elm [revision: 109.14]
> 
> > The best carb cleaner ive ever used was a homebrewblend  of MEK and Xylene.
> >  This stuff is reallllllly nasty.. Use it 1:1 and wear goggles and other
> > protective devices.
> 
> ACK!!!!!!!!  THis stuff will eat through most protective devices, except
> maybe steel.  I've made the mistake of using it on things to clean up
> resin from a floor: It dissolved the floor, and left the resin!!! (This
> was with MEK only.  The combo sounds nasty . . .)
> 
> > 
> > You can buy those chemicals at your friendly hardware store... Dont tell them
> > what you are using them for.  : ) A gallon of the homebrew usually costs
> > about $10 to make up.....
> 
> Scary stuff.  Use at your own risk. :)
> 
> Seriously, I wouldn't do this unless you have the above mentioned safety
> goggles, and gloves, a hat (to prevent premature hair loss), jeans, a long
> sleeve shirt, etc.  
> 
> Maybe it can double as an explosive???
> (JUST KIDDING!!!)
> 
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com
> 


--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Tue Jun 13 15:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Master cylinders

     
     There have been a few people who either weren't sure, or told me that
     they didn't think a Hawk master cylinder would work if you stuck the
     F2 wheel/rotors/calipers on.  Well, it does work folks.  If you go
     with the F2 front end, you can use the stock Hawk master cylinder.
     
     Jeff



------------------------------

From MEL1523@ACS.TAMU.EDU Tue Jun 13 16:55 PDT 1995
Subject: Homebrew


;> The best carb cleaner ive ever used was a homebrewblend  of MEK and Xylene.
;>  This stuff is reallllllly nasty.. Use it 1:1 and wear goggles and other
;> protective devices.
;
;ACK!!!!!!!!  THis stuff will eat through most protective devices, except
;maybe steel.  I've made the mistake of using it on things to clean up
;resin from a floor: It dissolved the floor, and left the resin!!! (This
;was with MEK only.  The combo sounds nasty . . .)

Xylene is basically ok, it is in gas already anyway, but MEK is a very 
powerful solvent.  Exxon had to rebuild a zillion carburetors in the late 
60's because they got MEK into the mogas pool from their MEK unit.  It will 
eat the rubber bits in the carbs to say nothing about paint.

Best way to clean carbs...find a friendly grad student that works in a lab 
with an ultrasonic water bath.  Put the carbs in a large beaker with some 
solvents (preferably low-flash) and sonicate it for about an hour or so.  
Works great on Bosch K-jetronic fuel injectors too, but don't tell my boss.

 - Mitch




------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Tue Jun 13 17:06 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Carburator Cleaner

>> The best carb cleaner ive ever used was a homebrewblend  of MEK and Xylene.
>>  This stuff is reallllllly nasty.. Use it 1:1 and wear goggles and other
>> protective devices.
>
>ACK!!!!!!!!  THis stuff will eat through most protective devices, except
>maybe steel.  I've made the mistake of using it on things to clean up
>resin from a floor: It dissolved the floor, and left the resin!!! (This
>was with MEK only.  The combo sounds nasty . . .)
>

Used straight MEK and a handful of gravel this past weekend to disolve the
remains of a gallon of 6 year old gas in the bottom of our Honda Trail 110
tank.  Yer basic toxic lead sludge, as thick as caramel, blackish green,
about 1 inch of it in the bottom of the tank and .5 cm coating the rest of
the tank.  Occasional shaking of the MEK/gravel cocktail over the course of
an hour restored the interior of the tank to absolutely sparkling
condition.  But damn, that stuff was toxic as hell (smelled like rancid
grape soda).

Then came the hard part:  getting the gravel out...

Hugh




------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Tue Jun 13 17:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Master cylinders

>
>     There have been a few people who either weren't sure, or told me that
>     they didn't think a Hawk master cylinder would work if you stuck the
>     F2 wheel/rotors/calipers on.  Well, it does work folks.  If you go
>     with the F2 front end, you can use the stock Hawk master cylinder.

Thanks for this good unsolicited information, Jeff.  I was pondering this
myself.  I was also wondering about CB1s and their right fork
leg/caliper/rotor setup, and whether it was a straight "bolt on" kind of
mod (like the F2 front).  Has anyone successfully performed this graft yet
and have any words of wisdom?  Are the "guts" the same (ports, etc)?  Can I
just swap my guts into the tube?  Is the caliper the same size?  Is there a
God?  (thought I'd throw that in there just in case...)

So, what's the skinny on the CB1 graft?

Hugh




------------------------------

From marty@carter.ca.boeing.com Tue Jun 13 18:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Head work for Hawks

> 
> On Mon, 5 Jun 1995, Marty Capadona wrote:
> 
> >        -remove the airbox cover and tape up between the frame and the
> >         airbox
> 
> I don't follow, can you explain (the tape part)?
> 
> Matt/OH

Any space between the airbox and the frame should be sealed off with
duct tape or similar.  This helps to keep the airflow into the box as
smooth as possible.
--
see ya!

marty




------------------------------

From micah@SIRIUS.COM Tue Jun 13 18:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Where is the Web page?

>Return-Path: 
>Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 16:15:52 EDT
>From: TPNB25A@prodigy.com (MR RANDY J HUNSBERGER)
>To: MEL1523@ACS.TAMU.EDU, hawkgt@dsea.com
>Subject: Where is the Web page?
>X-UIDL: 803082196.007
>
>-- [ From: R. Hunsberger * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] --
>
>>	I scanned that blow-apart from the manual and it's on the web page.
>
>I've seen several references to a Hawk Web page, but no address.  Could
>someone please post it?
>
>Thanks,
>Randy H.			'90 Red Hawk	'89 TransAlp
>
>tpnb25a@prodigy.com
>
>
>
>
>
Here is the address of the Hawk GT homepage:

http://www-chen.tamu.edu/homepage/mel1523/hawkgt.htm

Kim
'88Grey
'78CB750(The Brutalizer)



------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Wed Jun 14 08:36 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Master cylinders

> 
> >
> >     There have been a few people who either weren't sure, or told me that
> >     they didn't think a Hawk master cylinder would work if you stuck the
> >     F2 wheel/rotors/calipers on.  Well, it does work folks.  If you go
> >     with the F2 front end, you can use the stock Hawk master cylinder.

> So, what's the skinny on the CB1 graft?
> 

Hugh:

I checked into grafting CB1 parts onto my bike a while back, and the
consensus was, from a VERY knowledgable Hawk buddy of mine (in Las
Vegas, with a Dyno :), was that the CB1 leg would bolt directly on
to the Hawk fork.  All bolt holes, damping holes, etc, are supposedle
identical.

>From there, you can mount (huhhhuh, I said mount) another HAWK rotor
and a CB1 caliper (which is a right side Hawk caliper).  Then, you have
god's stopping power.  BEWARE!!!!  I can stoppie the bike in dry conditions
without too much effort (1 rotor).  Doing this mod will greatly increase one's
chances of crashing and pretending he's superman.


Mike
--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From CJAMIESO@acslab.acs.unt.edu Wed Jun 14 08:40 PDT 1995
Subject:       unsubscibe

Note: Old address in your files is cjamieso@acs.unt.edu

Please unsubcribe for any other addresses with this combination


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Wed Jun 14 09:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Hawk Specs

Hey, campers:

I checked the Hawk web page.  Very good job!

On a side note, where do the various "spec sheets" come from?
One rates the Hawk's top speed, at 8500RPM redline, at 116MPH.
THe other, at same redline, rates is at 129.  Now, I've had my
Hawk to what I _thought_ was 115 before, with a bit of room
to spare in the rev range (indicated 130, then accounting for
speedo error).  Please, don't try this at home.

One says (looks like a Honda sheet) the wuarter mile time is
12.70@103 mph (with a 115mph top speed), and the other gives
a 12.85@101.8 (with the 129 top speed).  

The lower top end is from what looks like a Honda spec sheet, while
the other, faster top end looks it came from a magazine such
as motorcyclist/sport rider.

The Honda looking one also gives an engine speed at 60mph of 4470,
and I assume this is top gear.  Not even close according to my
gauges, tho.

Luckily, they agree on bike weight, suspension travel, gas tank
size (but not fuel economy), etc.  (they even agree on speedometer
error)  I assume that Honda uses math to figure out top speed, while
the mags would use a radar or laser gun.


AHHH!!!! Wait.  MEASURED TOP SPEED in the optomistic page (mag page)
gives 116mph.  The other top speed is given for redline.


So what is the truth?  Should we call Honda and have them fax us 
REAL spec sheets?  Should we call motorcyclist and have them
fax their spec sheets?  Is the Hawk, with minor modifications,
capable of 129 mph?  Stoooopid people like me wanna know (I'd
rather not test it out in this rain . . . :)

 


Mike


------------------------------

From Roger_A._Hackett@ccmepus.mobil.com Wed Jun 14 09:40 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Hawk Specs

     I reached 123 mph (not accounting for spedo error) on my stock 88 hawk 
     with a small Tracy wind screen.  I had to hug the tank and tuck in 
     behind the wind screen to break 115 mph.
     
     This was on a deserted stretch of raised interstate with no access 
     ramps (above the swamps between lake Pontchatrain and Lake Maurepaus 
     in Louisiana).
     
     Roger


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
>Subject: Hawk Specs
>Author:  Mike Nielsen  at INTERNET-MEPUS
>Date:    6/14/95 11:12 AM
     
     
>So what is the truth?  Should we call Honda and have them fax us 
>REAL spec sheets?  Should we call motorcyclist and have them
>fax their spec sheets?  Is the Hawk, with minor modifications, 
>capable of 129 mph?  Stoooopid people like me wanna know (I'd 
>rather not test it out in this rain . . . :)
     
     
     
     




------------------------------

From Hawky647@aol.com Wed Jun 14 10:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Hawk Specs

On top speed I've seen 135 on my speedo which I figure is about 120.  I have
done this a number of times on a long downhill straight on Angeles Crest
Highway. I have a one tooth larger rear sprocket (lower gearing), Two
Brothers carbon pipe, and Factory Stage One Ti jet kit.


------------------------------

From sturges@oasys.dt.navy.mil Wed Jun 14 10:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Hawk Specs

>fax their spec sheets?  Is the Hawk, with minor modifications,
>capable of 129 mph?  Stoooopid people like me wanna know (I'd
>rather not test it out in this rain . . . :)


    129 mph stock, no friggin way. 115 is more like it. But remember, lots
of things can effect top speed; rider size, how tight you tuck, a tail wind,
etc. Two brand new factory motors could differ my several hp. And if you are
testing your own bikes ability, remember that the speedo means just about
nothing above
80mph.

rich

ps- If you really wanna know, see me about roadracing instructions at Summit
Point Raceway in West Virginia.




------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Wed Jun 14 11:35 PDT 1995
Subject: a conversation with Mike Velasco...

     
     Well, OK, it was his assistant who answered the phone but I _heard_
     Mike answering all the questions...
     
     Anyway, I asked about the MVR pipe.  No specific dyno charts
     available but they indicated that one of their pipes on a jetted
     Hawk would produce 8-10 more hp throughout the rpm range as well
     as 8-10 more ft-lbs of torque throughout the rev range.  They
     indicated that the TBR pipe does make a couple of more hp on
     the top end, but they really shot for the 3-6k rpm range.  
     Interesting note: they did have some dyno charts on a built Hawk
     motor with a TBR pipe vs. the MVR pipe -- at the TBR mid-range
     flat spot, the MVR pipe was making 32 hp more!
     
     I also asked about porting/polishing the heads.  They indicated
     that they could do a sweet clean-up job on the intakes as well
     as a sweet valve job for a Hawk that would not require the 
     owner to do extra mods (like a cam or bigger carbs) to take
     advantage of their work.  End result should be a couple of more
     horse and the Hawk should pull harder, longer.
     
     Price:  $80-90 for the clean-up
             $180   for the valve job
     
     Guess what I'm gonna be doing soon  ~:^)   Hey, Mike Nielsen!  What
     do you think?
     
     Jeff
     



------------------------------

From Doug_Wiebe@NeXT.COM Wed Jun 14 11:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Carburator Cleaner

[ descriptions of various highly toxic chemicals deleted ]

What do you guys do with the toxic waste after you're done with it?

- Doug


------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Wed Jun 14 12:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Carburator Cleaner

>[ descriptions of various highly toxic chemicals deleted ]
>
>What do you guys do with the toxic waste after you're done with it?

I was gonna ask the same thing!  We generally store stuff in various
containers in the garage until they get full, then take 'em down to my
roommates lab, where they have a disposal service.  Shhhh...

Anyone else?

Hugh




------------------------------

From ckrieger@osf1.gmu.edu Wed Jun 14 13:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Carburator Cleaner (fwd)

|>[ descriptions of various highly toxic chemicals deleted ]
|>
|>What do you guys do with the toxic waste after you're done with it?
|
|I was gonna ask the same thing!  We generally store stuff in various
|containers in the garage until they get full, then take 'em down to my
|roommates lab, where they have a disposal service.  Shhhh...
|
|Anyone else?

About once a year the local sanatation/fire/whatever departments have an
amnisty day for all sorts of stuff from unused explosives to old paint.
I usually wait for that.  They usually have a requirement for proof of
residency and have a 3-5 gal limit to keep comercial people from
cleaning up ...so to speak :)

-cliff


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Wed Jun 14 14:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: a conversation with Mike Velasco...

>      Anyway, I asked about the MVR pipe.  No specific dyno charts
>      available but they indicated that one of their pipes on a jetted
>      Hawk would produce 8-10 more hp throughout the rpm range as well
>      as 8-10 more ft-lbs of torque throughout the rev range.  They
>      indicated that the TBR pipe does make a couple of more hp on
>      the top end, but they really shot for the 3-6k rpm range.  
>      Interesting note: they did have some dyno charts on a built Hawk
>      motor with a TBR pipe vs. the MVR pipe -- at the TBR mid-range
>      flat spot, the MVR pipe was making 32 hp more!

Wow!  Now someone has to have a Dyno, so we can all properly jet our
bikes, and give the REAL charts to others (I volunteer my hawk with
supertrapp).

>      I also asked about porting/polishing the heads.  They indicated
>      that they could do a sweet clean-up job on the intakes as well
>      as a sweet valve job for a Hawk that would not require the 
>      owner to do extra mods (like a cam or bigger carbs) to take
>      advantage of their work.  End result should be a couple of more
>      horse and the Hawk should pull harder, longer.
>      
>      Price:  $80-90 for the clean-up
>              $180   for the valve job

Hmmmmm, tasty.  For that money, I would seriously consider it.  UNforunately,
I'm currently broke. :(

That sounds like a very reasonable deal to me, though.  I assume this
is for _both_ heads?

>      Guess what I'm gonna be doing soon  ~:^)   Hey, Mike Nielsen!  What
>      do you think?

See above.  I need a car before I can start spending more money on the Hawk
(please, don't flame me on this one.  I don't even _own_ a car right now.
Well, I do, but my girlfriend has it, and she's 120 miles away, where
it's probably snowing at the moment).

Thanks so much for checking into it, though.  I will consider it when the
motor begins to tire (I intend on rebuilding at 30k anyway, and I'm
not too far off that right now.  21k and counting . . .)



Mike
--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Wed Jun 14 14:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re[2]: a conversation with Mike Velasco...

[interesting info about MVR pipe deleted]
     
>>     I also asked about porting/polishing the heads.  They indicated 
>>     that they could do a sweet clean-up job on the intakes as well  
>>     as a sweet valve job for a Hawk that would not require the 
>>     owner to do extra mods (like a cam or bigger carbs) to take
>>     advantage of their work.  End result should be a couple of more 
>>     horse and the Hawk should pull harder, longer.
>>      
>>      Price:  $80-90 for the clean-up 
>>             $180   for the valve job
     
>Hmmmmm, tasty.  For that money, I would seriously consider it.  UNforunately, 
>I'm currently broke. :(

Wait a month!  :^)
     
>That sounds like a very reasonable deal to me, though.  I assume this 
>is for _both_ heads?

Yes, both heads.
     
>>      Guess what I'm gonna be doing soon  ~:^)   Hey, Mike Nielsen! What 
>>      do you think?
     
>See above.  I need a car before I can start spending more money on the Hawk 
>(please, don't flame me on this one.  I don't even _own_ a car right now. 
>Well, I do, but my girlfriend has it, and she's 120 miles away, where
>it's probably snowing at the moment).

Hmmm, it doesn't sound like you need a car...it sounds like your GIRLFRIEND
needs a car.  Being that she has yours, maybe she can spend the money to
polish your head(s).   ;-)   (sound of applause... thank you, thank you)

The pun-ster,

Jeff
     



------------------------------

From Jakedj@aol.com Wed Jun 14 14:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Homebrew


Mitch writes:

>but MEK is a very 
>powerful solvent.  Exxon had to rebuild a zillion carburetors >in the late 
>60's because they got MEK into the mogas pool from their MEK >unit.  It will

>eat the rubber bits in the carbs to say nothing about paint.


of course MEK eats rubber parts.  But then again ANY CARBURATOR CLEANER WILL
EAT RUBBER PARTS!!!. Do not believe the packaging on the carb cleaner
package.  If it can get varnish offa the carb, it will eat rubber.

Trust an industrial chemist.

>Best way to clean carbs...find a friendly grad student that >works in a lab 
>with an ultrasonic water bath.  Put the carbs in a large beaker >with some 
>solvents (preferably low-flash) and sonicate it for about an >hour or so. 

DONT DO THIS!!!!!!!!!! If you leave the parts in an industrial ultrasonic
water bath too long it will shake the aluminum apart.  No shit..

Jakedj


------------------------------

From Hawky647@aol.com Wed Jun 14 15:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: a conversation with Mike Velasco...

32 more HP!  I highly doubt it.  My bike has a 2 Bros pipe and a Factory Stg
1 Ti jet kit and it doesn't have any flat spots although I have not dynoed it
yet. Sounds like a jetting problem on the TBR piped bike to me.  


------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Wed Jun 14 16:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: a conversation with Mike Velasco.

>32 more HP!  I highly doubt it.  My bike has a 2 Bros pipe and a Factory Stg
>1 Ti jet kit and it doesn't have any flat spots although I have not dynoed it
>yet. Sounds like a jetting problem on the TBR piped bike to me.

I agree.  TBR piped bikes regularly do very well in competition...if there
were such a disparity in horsepower, they wouldn't be used by racers, eh
(hmmm, I can see the "racer" flamethrowers igniting...)?

Not that I know who Mike Velasco is, but would he perchance be trying to
SELL some of these touted 32 HP booster rocket pipes?  This could explain
at least some of the "difference".

Hawky647, what air filter system do you use?  What are your jet kit
settings (mains, clip height (from top))?  I DO have a flat spot (5k to
5.5krpm) with K&N filters and ... damn, I just realized you have the Stage
1 whilst I have the Stage 3 kit... ah well.  What are your specs anyway?  I
have the Stage 3 at 148 mains and the needles on position 1, making them as
loooong as possible.  The top end is absolutely outrageous, but there is
that weird flat spot...I might try a smaller (144?) main and moving the
needles up some.  Anyone else with TBR kit want to share their airbox/jet
kit settings?

Hugh




------------------------------

From Gumby647@aol.com Wed Jun 14 19:40 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: a conversation with Mike ...

   Jeff,


   Could you please e-mail me Mike V's phone #.

                                                              Thanks
                                                              Gumby


------------------------------

From alan@wana.pbrc.Hawaii.Edu Wed Jun 14 19:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Stoppies

Well I just finished a complete tune-up/valve adjustment/parts 
upgrade/jetting of my hawk and I'm loving life.  I've replaced the chain and sprockets with the Pro Tekk 520 kit (stock gearing, aluminum rear, DID vector 
supreme o-ring cost $150).  Dropped in the Progressive springs with 10wt 
fork oil and the front end is way, way... better.  And to echo the 
sentiments of everybody else "I wish I had done it sooner..."  I'm set 
for a summer of riding.  But I have only one complaint -- I can't stoppie 
anymore.  Before with the stock fork springs all I had to do was grab the 
front brake firmly until the front compressed then continue the squeeze 
and the back wheel was in the air.  Now under hard braking the front 
end no longer dips radically but I can't seem to coax a stoppie out of 
my hawk.  I've noticed I'm grabbing the front brake harder but all that 
happens is a rather abrupt stop -- no stoppie. :(  I have also noticed that 
the brakes don't seems to "catch" as instantly as before. So I'm 
wondering -- is this an unfortunate consequence of the Progressives or 
do I just have fork oil on my brake rotor?  If its latter does anybody 
have any idea how to clean it off my pads and rotor?  Thanks..

Alan


------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Thu Jun 15 08:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re[2]: a conversation with Mike Velasco...

     Remember, the original posting said that that was on a built (i.e.
     full race) motor.
     
     Jeff


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: a conversation with Mike Velasco...
Author:  Hawky647@aol.com at INTERNET
Date:    6/14/95 4:06 PM


32 more HP!  I highly doubt it.  My bike has a 2 Bros pipe and a Factory Stg 
1 Ti jet kit and it doesn't have any flat spots although I have not dynoed it 
yet. Sounds like a jetting problem on the TBR piped bike to me.  



------------------------------

From goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us Thu Jun 15 08:10 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: a conversation with Mike Velasco...

On Wed, 14 Jun 1995 Hawky647@aol.com wrote:

> 32 more HP!  I highly doubt it.  My bike has a 2 Bros pipe and a Factory Stg

Mike Velasco has a vested interest of course, but his claim may not be too
far off. Last time I was Metropolis (local shop w/dyno) one of the guys
was showing be some charts. They had set up one semi-built hawk (65 hp)
that was 15 HP shy of my *stock* bike through the 4-6k range.

Matt/OH




------------------------------

From beernink@scripps.edu Thu Jun 15 09:06 PDT 1995


Does anyone out there know where I can get a new front brake rotor?
Honda's part is $300, and so far, nobody else offers anything cheaper.
I've tried all the mailorder houses, to no avail.  HELP!

Andrew Beernink
beernink@scripps.edu




------------------------------

From marty@carter.ca.boeing.com Thu Jun 15 09:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: a conversation with Mike ...

> 
>    Jeff,
> 
> 
>    Could you please e-mail me Mike V's phone #.
> 
Please post it to the list since several people have requested it.

--
see ya!

marty



------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Thu Jun 15 09:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Velasco's phone number

     
     (206) 792-1292
     



------------------------------

From giant!giant.IntraNet.com!steve@omega.IntraNet.com Thu Jun 15 09:50 PDT 1995
Subject: boots

someone asked a while ago about boots.
Wesco (West Coast) Shoe Company will make custom boots, and not just
for motorcycling.  They're in Oregon and they're having a sale.

Do I work there?  No.
Do I know anyone who works there?  No.

Phone in the US is 800-326-2711.  In Canada, 503-543-7114.

	sa


------------------------------

From ckrieger@osf1.gmu.edu Thu Jun 15 10:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Tire question

I was at the races out at Summet Point last weekend (hi Rich) and picked
up a pair of tires for a song.  My question is about the sizes.  The
tires I got were Metzler MEZ1 120/60 R17 and a 160/60 R17.  I think the
160/60 will work fine on the rear...I have seen some mention of it on
the web page.  My question is this:  Has anyone tried a 120/60 onthe
front? What are the likly handeling effects of such a tire?  Am I better
off selling it on the Goof2 list and buying a different one?  How much
is it worth? It has 25 street miles on it, no track miles. 
-cliff


------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Thu Jun 15 10:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: a conversation with Mike Velasco.

>>>32 more HP!  I highly doubt it.  My bike has a 2 Bros pipe and a Factory Stg
>>>1 Ti jet kit and it doesn't have any flat spots although I have not dynoed it
>>>yet. Sounds like a jetting problem on the TBR piped bike to me.
>>
>>I agree.  TBR piped bikes regularly do very well in competition...if there
>> [...]
>I believe the original post said that Velasco's dyno showed that
>at the point of the flat spot in the TBR pipe, the MVR pipe had
>32 more hp. If the TBR had 8 hp at a flat spot, maybe this might
>explain something.

8 hp!  If it does, then it SURELY is improperly tuned, eh?  I can't imagine
that TBR would be selling many pipes if all of them had such an extreme
flat spot.

Obviously, the TBR bike that was dynoed was screwed up.  Boy, I wish I had
the $$ to dyno my bike and see the curve...

>Just wanted to keep the fires burning.

Crackle.

Hugh




------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Thu Jun 15 10:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: a conversation with Mike Velasco.

Dennis Crowley wrote:

>> I agree.  TBR piped bikes regularly do very well in competition...if there
>> were such a disparity in horsepower, they wouldn't be used by racers, eh
>> (hmmm, I can see the "racer" flamethrowers igniting...)?
>>
>To be honest, of the several dozen people I know who race Hawks, not one
>of them has a TBR.  The broke people buy Muzzy's, those in the know ride
>'Trapp.  There is the odd Kerker (bought on closeout) and any number of
>homebuilds, but no TBR's.

Hmmmm...I could swear I remember several racers with TBR setups racing
AFM...I'll take a survey this Sunday, with Mike Nielsen as witness, up at
Sears Point.

>> Not that I know who Mike Velasco is, but would he perchance be trying to
>> SELL some of these touted 32 HP booster rocket pipes?  This could explain
>> at least some of the "difference".
>
>Well, Mike is in the business of selling his pipes, yes.  However, my
>experience with him has been that he really doesnt' have to snow people
>to get his product out.  He's had his name on the Who's Who of
>motorcycling for almost 20 years, tuning for Yosh, HRC, TBR, and privately.

I'm sure he wouldn't intentionally snow anyone.  However, a 32 hp
differential on a Hawk with ANY pipe setup (even stock) is absurd, unless
there are tuning problems.

>I HAVE seen such disparities occur, but with majorly built Hawks.
>Serious tuning compnents really have only recently become available,
>oddly enough, so many built Hawks are actually backyard hack jobs.  I
>have seen big-bore Hawks done with OMC MArine pistons and Chrysler
>sleeves (if you can believe that.)

!  Wild!  I want one!  Once again, tho, if such a disparity occurs, then
there is a PROBLEM, eh?  So the backyard hacker SCREWED UP somehow.

>I also would like to see the 32 HP difference myself, truthfully;
>however, gievn the state that many mechanics leave Hawks in, it's quite
>possivble.

Sure, it's possible, with an improperly tuned bike.  But it shouldn't be
used as a sales point unless it IS tuned properly.  Mike V's pipe won't
tune the bike FOR you.  I'm sure I could de-tune the Velasco pipe and get
it to pull a lot less than my TBR...

Hugh




------------------------------

From Victor.A.King@dartvax.dartmouth.edu Thu Jun 15 10:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Stoppies

--- Alan Cabasug wrote:
. So I'm 
wondering -- is this an unfortunate consequence of the Progressives or 
do I just have fork oil on my brake rotor?  If its latter does anybody 
have any idea how to clean it off my pads and rotor?  Thanks..

Alan
--- end of quoted material ---

Depends on your rubber.  I couldnt do it with my sportmaxes with progressives
in.  but i can do it most of the time with my MEZ1 up front with progressives
and 10 wt oil.   this is WITHOUT, mind you, stainless lines.

have fun.
S
88 blue
DHOG #001


------------------------------

From SeanMc13@aol.com Thu Jun 15 10:40 PDT 1995
Subject: Fwd: Need Info

I tried sending this a few days ago but never saw it. So. . .here I go again.
---------------------
Forwarded message:
Subj:    Need Info
Date:    95-06-12 23:21:28 EDT
From:    Sean Mc13
To:      hawkgt@dsea.com

Hi all,

I'm interested in information regarding higher mileage hawks. I am the
original owner of a well maintained stock '88 with about 55,000 miles on it.
I love the bike but after summer I will be out of the country for about a
year and I am trying to decide whether to store the bike or sell it. I'm
worried that if I sell it I will be kicking myself when I get back for giving
up such a relaible companion however I could really use the extra money and
I'm not sure how many more good miles the bike has left. No mechanical
problems yet but I'm worried hat it might be getting close to that point
where things just start going bad.

I remember seeing a lot of postings about two months ago regarding sale
prices of used hawks but as I recall these were all fairly low mileage bikes.
I would appreciate any information regarding the going price (esp. Southern
California) of higher mileage hawks. Also, if anyone has a hawk with 60,000+
miles I am interested in knowing how well it's holding up. Both these factors
will weigh heavily in my decision. Thanks for any info.

-Sean


------------------------------

From <@adi.analog.com:Kenneth.Lawas@analog.com> Thu Jun 15 10:40 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: Synthetics/Valves...




> Synthetic oil for the Hawk. Any particular brands? Oil change intervals?
>

  I've had great luck with Mobil 1.  My changes work out to between 1500
  and 2000 miles, mainly because I go to the track twice a year.  I
  found the synthetic to quiet the clunky shifts I used to get when my
  air-cooled bikes got hot.  WARNING-- I've seen ads for many other
  brands of synthetics lately.  Looking at the labels and ads, some
  advertise "star molecules," the ability to be protect the engine
  after draining (running without oil!), and other B.S.  The PTFE or
  other additives these manufacturers are adding CAN'T be good for a
  wet clutch.  Mobil 1 is chemically-compatible (REAL) oil with a minimum
  of additives.

> Also, valve adjustment intervals. I got the bike with 4,800 miles last
> summer and I'm upto 12,800 now. I've never adjusted them and can only
> assume they were done by the shop as he had the local Honda dealer do
> service. It sounds perfectly fine right now. On some bikes they are
> very critical and need regular adjustment (especially on my VW Beetle).
> What about the Hawk?

  The manual says to do the valves at break-in (600mi?) and after 8000
  mi.  I just checked mine at 6700 mi and all six were between 0.001-in
  and 0.002-in under clearance.  I believe the previous owner had the
  dealer do the 600-mi maintenance.  Also, I just read in some
  motorcycle mag that most recommended valve intervals are overly
  optimistic.

  -Ken
   kenneth.lawas@analog.com
   90 Red



------------------------------

From Victor.A.King@dartvax.dartmouth.edu Thu Jun 15 10:40 PDT 1995
Subject: guinea pig


ok folks...lots of talk running around about this so:

what if i slapped an MVR pipe on a street hawk with a few mods but fully engine
stock.  
	i'd have to go to a local midas and have the guy there bend me a new
final section to save the blinker and passenger peg. (unless i got a bum bend
from mike v)
	i'd play gorilla's in shop with a friend and use our collective wits to
strip one of the centerstand bolts, then realize it could stay.  
	i'd grab an l bracket and make a center stand retainer to keep it off
the chain, since it's there to stay.
	then i'd get on the thing and ride it around at night, realizing from
jamie m's comments after riding wing man that i need a flash suppressor for the
amt the thing backfired when the throttle was at zero and engine braking.  
	i'd also discover a world of fat power wheelies finally sparing my
clutch to do only shift duty, as well as much more bite in the accel.  not to
mention finding a new sound...so sublime.  no more stock george jetson mobile
sound.  throaty but only loud when cranking the throttle open.

any thoughts on this experiment?  my next step would b/ is obviously jetting. 
i am planning to use the akamatsuk 4$ econo jet kit.  would that solve the prob
with the backfiring?  a change in mixture needs to be made, how do i do that?

thanks for your help.
sasha
88 blue
	

	


------------------------------

From sturges@oasys.dt.navy.mil Thu Jun 15 10:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: 

>Does anyone out there know where I can get a new front brake rotor?
>Honda's part is $300, and so far, nobody else offers anything cheaper.
>I've tried all the mailorder houses, to no avail.  HELP!

        I'd try Ferodo (about $200 including pads), Braking Brakes, and
Kosman, in that order. If someone held a gun to my head, I might buy a stock
disk. A race supply shop or a good dealer should have all these options.

rich



------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Thu Jun 15 11:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Tire question

> 
> I was at the races out at Summet Point last weekend (hi Rich) and picked
> up a pair of tires for a song.  My question is about the sizes.  The
> tires I got were Metzler MEZ1 120/60 R17 and a 160/60 R17.  I think the
> 160/60 will work fine on the rear...I have seen some mention of it on
> the web page.  My question is this:  Has anyone tried a 120/60 onthe
> front? What are the likly handeling effects of such a tire?  Am I better
> off selling it on the Goof2 list and buying a different one?  How much
> is it worth? It has 25 street miles on it, no track miles. 

DOn't run a 120/60 on the Hawk.  The wheel is simply too narrow for
that profile tire.  A 110/80 MEZ1 is the ideal tire for the bike (I've
had others, and this one WORKS!).

You could probably get $70 for it, if it's perfect.  If I had an F2,
I'd buy it!  You can get the 110/80 for about $85 mail order (I think.
It's been a while since I ordered mine).

Have a ball,

Mike



PS - of course, you could always score an F2 wheel so you _can_ mount
the tire........
--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From MAILER-DAEMON@emin04.mail.aol.com Thu Jun 15 12:00 PDT 1995
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable

The mail you sent could not be delivered to:
550 hawknutt is not a known user
550 nt650hawk is not a known user

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>From frank@dsea.com Thu Jun 15 14:48:18 1995
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Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 11:37:06 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 
Message-Id: <199506151837.LAA21659@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: That high mileage hawk
Content-Length: 542


Say, is it your '88 that I occasionally see at UCI.  It had 51,000 miles
on it the last time I looked.  I also have seen it on the 55 freeway
and around town.  

The Hawk seems to go well for a long time.  I'd say store it.  Or just
give it to me.  I'll drive it for a year and tell you how it goes.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097



------------------------------

From MAILER-DAEMON@emin05.mail.aol.com Thu Jun 15 12:00 PDT 1995
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable

The mail you sent could not be delivered to:
550 hawknutt69 is not a known user

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Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 11:37:06 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 
Message-Id: <199506151837.LAA21659@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: That high mileage hawk
Content-Length: 542


Say, is it your '88 that I occasionally see at UCI.  It had 51,000 miles
on it the last time I looked.  I also have seen it on the 55 freeway
and around town.  

The Hawk seems to go well for a long time.  I'd say store it.  Or just
give it to me.  I'll drive it for a year and tell you how it goes.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097



------------------------------

From MAILER-DAEMON@mail03.mail.aol.com Thu Jun 15 12:00 PDT 1995
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable

The mail you sent could not be delivered to:
551 tvengineer has a full mailbox

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Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 11:37:06 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 
Message-Id: <199506151837.LAA21659@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: That high mileage hawk
Content-Length: 542


Say, is it your '88 that I occasionally see at UCI.  It had 51,000 miles
on it the last time I looked.  I also have seen it on the 55 freeway
and around town.  

The Hawk seems to go well for a long time.  I'd say store it.  Or just
give it to me.  I'll drive it for a year and tell you how it goes.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097



------------------------------

From mgiffin@dee.retix.com Thu Jun 15 12:10 PDT 1995
Subject: High-mileage Hawk


SeanMc13@aol.com wrote:

>I'm interested in information regarding higher mileage hawks. I am the
>original owner of a well maintained stock '88 with about 55,000 miles on it.
 [...]
>I would appreciate any information regarding the going price (esp. Southern
>California) of higher mileage hawks. Also, if anyone has a hawk with 60,000+
>miles I am interested in knowing how well it's holding up. Both these factors
>will weigh heavily in my decision. Thanks for any info.

My stock 89 Hawk has over 62,000 miles on it. One owner, no major problems, no 
engine rebuild. I have no intention of selling it, but I'd also like to know 
what it might be worth. It appears to be ready to run a good bit longer.

I can't think of a new bike I'd want to buy. A Ducati M900 or one of those
new Yamaha TDM 850s would be nice, but I don't feel like paying what they're
asking. 

Mark Giffin
mgiffin@retix.com


------------------------------

From racer@cyber1.servtech.com Thu Jun 15 14:05 PDT 1995

>From racer Thu Jun 15 17:08 EDT 1995 remote from cyber1
Subject: Urgent info request - buying hawk with broken/repaired frame
To: hawkgt@dsea.com
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 17:08:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: "matthew dennie" 
Cc: racer@cyber1.servtech.com (matthew dennie)
X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.4 PL23]
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Length: 787

I'm going to look at a hawk advertised in todays paper: $1200, 88 hawk,
new tires, battery and tuneup.

I talked to the owner who told me the bike was "hit."  The framd had been
broken at the point where the spar from the steering head joins the thingy
where everything else connects.  It has been w4elded and apparently used for
a year or more since.

Has anyone had/ repaired this failure?  Any comment on things to look for, or
to simply avoid the bike.  $1200 sounds like a good deal, even with the
repair, to me.

I would street the bike initially (I don't beleive it has been raced), but
would very likely race it at some time.  I currently race an 89 EX.

Since I'm gonna look at the bike this evening, immediate responses are most
useful.

-- Matt

PS  How do I join this list?


------------------------------

From Jakedj@aol.com Thu Jun 15 14:10 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Tire question

I would be very wary of putting a 120mm tire on the front of an unmodified
hawk wheel.  Thatsa lotta bending..
Jakedj


------------------------------

From gilman@mtwil1.mtwilson.edu Thu Jun 15 15:15 PDT 1995
Subject: One Brother Racing

Hi Hawksters,

Just in case you don't know yet, there's an interview with Kevin Erion in
the June issue of American Roadracing.  It's called "One Brother Racing". ;-)
There's a few interesting bits about how TBR got started with the Hawk.
Check it out.  It's on pages 46-49.

 Pam		'89 Red			gilman@mtwil1.mtwilson.edu
     		


------------------------------

From AGault@aol.com Thu Jun 15 16:10 PDT 1995
Subject: SOUNDS LIKE MONEY

HELP HELP HELP   i have a clicking sound coming from the front head of my
engine.  it sounds like a singer sewing machine that speeds up as you give it
more gas.  could it be valves.  it only has 1500 miles could the valve tap be
that bad.  it is not that load but it is load enough to come over the engine
  sounds like a lawnmower   help   help


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Thu Jun 15 16:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: SOUNDS LIKE MONEY

> 
> HELP HELP HELP   i have a clicking sound coming from the front head of my
> engine.  it sounds like a singer sewing machine that speeds up as you give it
> more gas.  could it be valves.  it only has 1500 miles could the valve tap be
> that bad.  it is not that load but it is load enough to come over the engine
>   sounds like a lawnmower   help   help

Sounds remarkably like a valve tick, to me at least.  Check the valve
clearances.  You may very well find that one is very much out
of whack...

WAIT!!  Before you do that, check your exhaust pipes to make sure
they are on tight.  I had a problem where mine loosened up enough
(from vibration) to make noise.  Make sure they are all tight, and torqued 
to the correct values (whatever those values are).


Mike
> 


--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From marty@carter.ca.boeing.com Thu Jun 15 16:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: SOUNDS LIKE MONEY

Why don't you just check the valve clearence and find out?

--
see ya!

marty 



------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Thu Jun 15 17:10 PDT 1995
Subject: Rainsuit


I'm buying one . . . Today.  F*ck this weather sucks.

It's been pouring all day here in Sacramento, off and on of
course.  I rode to work in my gloves, leather jacket, and TENNIS
SHOES (not to mention jeans).  I had to go BACK home when I
got drenched (wasn't that bad at my house, but really bad
by work) and get dry clothes just so I wouldn't die of a nasty 
cold.

Later,

Mike

PS - Anyone up for a ride on Saturday?  I'm thinking about heading
down to Berkeley to Grizzly peak for a spot of riding.  Anyone up for
it?

Later,

MikeGetACar


------------------------------

From CRDuke@aol.com Thu Jun 15 18:10 PDT 1995
Subject: Hawk GT Mailing List Subscription

Hi Frank!  Please add me to your list.

My name is Chuck Duquette and I live in Hermosa Beach, California and ride a
red 1989 Hawk with only 8,000 miles.

My E-mail address is:

crduke@aol.com


Thanks.



------------------------------

From ecarrico@spl.lib.wa.us Thu Jun 15 18:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Rainsuit


On Thu, 15 Jun 1995, Mike Nielsen wrote:

> 
> I'm buying one . . . Today.  F*ck this weather sucks.
> 
> It's been pouring all day here in Sacramento, off and on of
> course.  

Let's see ...  Sunny California. Rainy Washington.  Today I rode home in 
sunshine so nice I had to wear shades. There are clouds all around 
though.  A rainsuit lives in my tankbag, but so far it's been pretty good 
here this spring.  The Hawk doesn't care.

Ellen



------------------------------

From GTRider9@aol.com Thu Jun 15 18:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: guinea pig

In a message dated 95-06-15 13:50:55 EDT, Sasha.King@Dartmouth.EDU writes:

>ok folks...lots of talk running around about this so:
>
>what if i slapped an MVR pipe on a street hawk with a few mods but
>fully engine
>stock.  
>	i'd have to go to a local midas and have the guy there bend me a new
>final section to save the blinker and passenger peg. (unless i got a
>bum bend
>from mike v)

Uh Oh--I've got an MVR pipe laying around in my garage too...I only bought it
because the guy at Lockhart swore it would work with the centerstand (which
the TBR pipe does not BTW).  I was disappointed to find that it didn't come
with a centerstand stop, (or anything resembling instructions!!) but I
thought "Hey, what do you want for $600?" and set it aside for when I had
time to mess with it.  Now I find out it won't work with the stock subframe
either.  Nuts. 

Thanks for the tip Sasha!

Dave


------------------------------

From pcrandal@adobe.com Fri Jun 16 07:35 PDT 1995
Subject: HawkWorks

It's time for me to renew my subscription, but nowhere in the newsletter
does it say how much it costs. I tried faxing them, got no response. Does
anyone know how much it costs?

Thanks,

Peter

---------------------------
      Peter Crandall
    pcrandal@adobe.com
   peter@buckethead.com
 http://www.buckethead.com
---------------------------




------------------------------

From <@adi.analog.com:Kenneth.Lawas@analog.com> Fri Jun 16 07:40 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: Tire question




> I was at the races out at Summet Point last weekend (hi Rich) and
> picked up a pair of tires for a song.  My question is about the sizes.
> The tires I got were Metzler MEZ1 120/60 R17 and a 160/60 R17.  I think
> the 160/60 will work fine on the rear...I have seen some mention of it
> on the web page.  My question is this:  Has anyone tried a 120/60 onthe
> front? What are the likly handeling effects of such a tire?  Am I
> better off selling it on the Goof2 list and buying a different one?
> How much is it worth? It has 25 street miles on it, no track miles.
> -cliff
> 

  I have the Metzeler MEZ1 sales literature at home.  I'd be willing to
  publish it if necessary.  The 110/80 had a design width of 2.50-in
  and the 160/60 was 4.50-inch.  NO other MEZ1 front size was
  recommended for rims as narrow as 2.50-inch.  The literature is sales
  oriented, but interesting.  One misconception on the list has been
  that the MEZ2 is a different compound than the MEZ1.  If I remember,
  the literature suggests that it is only a taller profile with deeper
  tread for longer life.

  Chapparal's prices for street compound were
    110/80  $77.97
    160/60 $103.97
    120/60  $82.97  plus $12.50 shipping for two tires, BUT

  The dealer who mounted my tires ($55!) saw a grey stripe painted on
  the tread and said that this meant the tires were blemished--hence
  the cheap price the mail order houses give.  I didn't notice
  anything, but I hadn't inspected the inside of the tires before I
  gave them to the dealer.  Anyone have any experience here?  I've
  noticed Competition Accessories ads that specifically say no blems.


  -----

  RE: Four stroke tuning book

  From the Boston white pages:

      Whitehorse Press (24 Spice, Charlestown)
      (617) 241-5241


  (Sorry for the long post.  Nothing I sent from my normal mailer would
   ever show up on the list.  There must be a B.S. filter...)


 -Ken


------------------------------

From CYNTHIA@diablo.adm.clarkson.edu Fri Jun 16 07:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: HawkWorks

> Date sent:      Fri, 16 Jun 1995 07:37:48 -0800
> To:             hawkgt@dsea.com
> From:           pcrandal@adobe.com (Peter Crandall)
> Subject:        HawkWorks

> It's time for me to renew my subscription, but nowhere in the newsletter
> does it say how much it costs. I tried faxing them, got no response. Does
> anyone know how much it costs?
>     pcrandal@adobe.com
>    peter@buckethead.com
>  http://www.buckethead.com
> ---------------------------

I just joined 2 months ago and it was $20 w/ t-shirt, $12 w/o

CJ 


------------------------------

From goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us Fri Jun 16 08:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: a conversation with Mike Velasco.

On Thu, 15 Jun 1995, Hugh A. MacMullan IV wrote:

> >32 more hp. If the TBR had 8 hp at a flat spot, maybe this might
> >explain something.
> 
> 8 hp!  If it does, then it SURELY is improperly tuned, eh?  I can't imagine

I'd say so. I've only seen one dyno curve for a Hawk w/TBR pipe and before
they fixed the jetting, it was making only 10Hp in it's flat spot. That
was with TBR's old design w/large head pipes, not the new,stepped one. I
wonder which TBR pipe was on the bike that MV tested.
 
> Obviously, the TBR bike that was dynoed was screwed up.  Boy, I wish I had
> the $$ to dyno my bike and see the curve...

Metropolis Motorcycle works charges $20 for a 4th gear rollon. This does
not include a Tach pickup. The x-axis is speed in mph.

Matt/OH




------------------------------

From Victor.A.King@dartvax.dartmouth.edu Fri Jun 16 08:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: SOUNDS LIKE MONEY

--- Mike Nielsen wrote:
 Before you do that, check your exhaust pipes to make sure
they are on tight.  I had a problem where mine loosened up enough
(from vibration) to make noise.  Make sure they are all tight, and torqued 
to the correct values (whatever those values are).


Mike
> 
--- end of quoted material ---


does anyone know what those torque settings are?

S


------------------------------

From <@gaudi.CSUFresno.EDU:tdp11@lennon.pub.csufresno.edu> Fri Jun 16 08:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Bump starting (bad?)

Hi fellow Hawk nuts,
	After 32,000 miles the original battery in my '89 has given its 
last crank. I'm am a VERY poor edu.-breath and cannot afford a new one this
month...so here is the question:
	I've been bump starting it at least 4 times a day for a week now 
(and have become pretty adept ;). It looks I will be going through this 
routine until July 1st (payday). Is it bad or hard on the charging 
system to be doing this? My turn signals were acting funny yesterday, but 
I think that was just due to the rain...? I am pretty ignorant as far as 
electrics go so any advice would be appreciated.

thanks in advance,
	Todd 
'89 red


------------------------------

From gilman@mtwil1.mtwilson.edu Fri Jun 16 08:50 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: One Brother Racing

sa, 

Now we know your real name!  Since you interviewed Mr. K. Erion, I can
ask you, was there any indication that Erion Racing would be selling
Hawk parts, or is he leaving that totally to TBR?

On a personal note, as to why my email address is bogus in the header, 
it's because: (this is going to be difficult because I don't even fully
understand why, but I'll take a stab at it) I work at Mt. Wilson 
Observatory, but I am an employee of UCLA.  The sysop in the Dept. of
Astronomy installed our mailer, but the domain name (mtwil1.mtwilson.edu)
never goes out complete; it just goes out as mtwil1., so it just gets filled in
with whatever, usually netcom.com.  We've tried to have it corrected, but I
guess nobody down there is motivated enough or cares to fix it.  At one point
I was told that fixing it could cause more problems than it was worth.  Needless
to say, it's very irritating.  That's why I always put my email address at the 
bottom of my post.  That's why anyone replying to me has to type the address
in manually.  My apologies for the inconvenience.

      Pam		always at  gilman@mtwil1.mtwilson.edu  !!


PS to Peter -- I paid $20 a few months ago for my re-subscription to HawkWorks
and got a t-shirt with it, too.



------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Fri Jun 16 08:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: a conversation with Mike Velasco.

>Metropolis Motorcycle works charges $20 for a 4th gear rollon. This does
>not include a Tach pickup. The x-axis is speed in mph.

Wow!  That's not bad at ALL, although Ohio is pretty far to go for such a
bargain =-).  Anyone in the SF Bay Area know of a similar deal (or other
good dyno deals)?

Hugh, just achin' to dyno my baby...




------------------------------

From thornton@picard.aar.wpafb.af.mil Fri Jun 16 09:15 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Bump Starting


Todd (& others needing battery),

	This doesn't answer Todd's question but..

	I purchased a Champion battery for my Hawk at 
	Sam's Club for $40. That's pretty cheap compared 
	to the cost from a dealer for an orig. battery (Yasua [sic]).

Kelly

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-- Kelly Thornton	
-- AMA, HRCA 
--	would consider HSTA if someone could convince me why I MUST join.
-- 92 VFR750
-- 88 Hawk GT - for sale: 11k mi, blue, new 591s. 
--                        For more information email me directly.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------



------------------------------

From gilman@mtwil1.mtwilson.edu Fri Jun 16 09:25 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Bump starting (bad?)

Todd,

Before you go out and buy a new battery (like I did a few weeks ago),
take (if you haven't done so already) the top off the "sealed" battery.
It's not really sealed, and you can pry the top off with a screwdriver.
When I did that, I found that mine was totally dry.  Since I had already
bit the bullet and bought a new one, I haven't yet bothered filling the
old one with distilled water and tried charging it.  If yours is the 
same, though, that is, no water, you might try filling it and charging it.
It might save it for a little while longer.

      			Pam	 still at  gilman@mtwil1.mtwilson.edu


------------------------------

From SALUT@aol.com Fri Jun 16 09:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Hello Mr. rock...

Salut les amis,
Hello fellow hawkers,

Well I have been away for a while, and oh boy what a pile of e-mail.
Here's my little story.  I was going up the 405 here in SoCal when all of a
sudden a piece of the guy's pick-up in front of me or some rock he ran over,
I don't know which, came hurling towards me and my 88 hawk.  THHHHHHHUD!!!

I have contacted Cycle Trends, which is where I get most of the major repairs
I can't do in my appartement's carport.  They have quoted me some prices on
complete exaust systems as well as just the one pipe that has a major dent in
it.

The pipe in question is the one that comes out of the front cylinder on the
front bottom of the bike.

I am not a mechanical marvel and so I am not that well versed in the major
mechanical aspects of my bike. Help.

My first question is:  My hawk is completly stock. Should I just change the
one pipe or the entire system?  Let me say immediately that having a "super
exaust" system is not primordial to me. Fixing the one pipe will obviously be
cheaper.

My second question is:  What kind of exaust system for my hawk? Cycle Trends
is telling me that Kerker and "Sand" trap or something like that are the only
two companies that make after market exaust systems for my bike. Both run
around $400.  That's a little steep for my blood. Do I even need an entire
system? What are some of the other potential companies and are there any in
the Southern California region. 

Questions, comments, suggestions, anything will be appreciated.

Thank you.

Sebastien

SALUT@aol.com   >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Merci. 


------------------------------

From gilman@mtwil1.mtwilson.edu Fri Jun 16 09:35 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: A conversation with Mike V.

Hi again Hawksters,

For a long time I've wanted to get my bike dynoed, but being a woman (hence
having to learn things mechanical the hard and arduous way, i.e., trial and
lots of error, lots of reading and asking questions -- which is one 
reason why I love this list) and totally unfamiliar with the workings of a
dynamometer, I've been hesitant.  Can someone tell me exactly what it entails?
Do you have to take anything off the bike?   What's the _average_ cost?  Can
you do comparisons with different variables all in one shot?

Matt sez:

>Metropolis Motorcycle works charges $20 for a 4th gear rollon. This does
>not include a Tach pickup. The x-axis is speed in mph.

What, for example, is a tach pickup?  8*0

      			Thanks,

      			Pam		at  gilman@mtwil1.mtwilson.edu




------------------------------

From ckrieger@osf1.gmu.edu Fri Jun 16 10:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: A conversation with Mike V.

|For a long time I've wanted to get my bike dynoed, but being a woman (hence
|having to learn things mechanical the hard and arduous way, i.e., trial and
|lots of error, lots of reading and asking questions -- which is one 
|reason why I love this list) and totally unfamiliar with the workings of a
|dynamometer, I've been hesitant.  Can someone tell me exactly what it entails?
|Do you have to take anything off the bike?   What's the _average_ cost?  Can
|you do comparisons with different variables all in one shot?

I have seen a guy at the races do a dyno for $15...he didn't seem to
know much.

A guy I met at the races will do a "full" run for about $20 and will do
performance tuning for about $75 an hour.  Hawks take about 1.5 hours.
This entails several dyno runs to make sure that jetting changes and
such are beneficial.

A local Harley dealer will do a "full" dyno run for about 30 to $40 and
that includes exhaust gass analysis to tell how the jetting is.

As best I can tell, basicly what is involved is strapping the bike down
to a roller and fireing it up.  If you have lead connected to the spark
plug wire you can get a map of the horse power in relation to the RPM.

My goal is to dyno the bike stock,a nd then to make some carb changes
and dyno it again, and then to borrow as many pipes as possible and dyno
it again.  I know it would be cheaper to have the shop performance tune
it, but that is not my goal as much as to learn the stuff myself and be
able to document the effects of each change.

|Matt sez:
|
|>Metropolis Motorcycle works charges $20 for a 4th gear rollon. This does
|>not include a Tach pickup. The x-axis is speed in mph.
|
|What, for example, is a tach pickup?  8*0

See above.

-cliff



------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Fri Jun 16 10:06 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: a conversation with Mike Velasco.

Hugh sez:

> Dennis Crowley wrote:
> 
> >> I agree.  TBR piped bikes regularly do very well in competition...if there
> >> were such a disparity in horsepower, they wouldn't be used by racers, eh
> >> (hmmm, I can see the "racer" flamethrowers igniting...)?
> >>
> >To be honest, of the several dozen people I know who race Hawks, not one
> >of them has a TBR.  The broke people buy Muzzy's, those in the know ride
> >'Trapp.  There is the odd Kerker (bought on closeout) and any number of
> >homebuilds, but no TBR's.
> 
> Hmmmm...I could swear I remember several racers with TBR setups racing
> AFM...I'll take a survey this Sunday, with Mike Nielsen as witness, up at
> Sears Point.

I shall never tell a lie.  Yup, we'll check out the Hawk races on Sunday
and fill everyone in as to what exhausts are out there, and in what numbers.

I'll bring the geeky engineering paper (green lined stuff) and my handy
dandy geeky engineering pencils as well.

(refer to Dilbert's "How to Enrichen your life with stolen office products")

> >> Not that I know who Mike Velasco is, but would he perchance be trying to
> >> SELL some of these touted 32 HP booster rocket pipes?  This could explain
> >> at least some of the "difference".
> >
> >Well, Mike is in the business of selling his pipes, yes.  However, my
> >experience with him has been that he really doesnt' have to snow people
> >to get his product out.  He's had his name on the Who's Who of
> >motorcycling for almost 20 years, tuning for Yosh, HRC, TBR, and privately.
> 
> I'm sure he wouldn't intentionally snow anyone.  However, a 32 hp
> differential on a Hawk with ANY pipe setup (even stock) is absurd, unless
> there are tuning problems.

Maybe the engine was off? :-)

> >I HAVE seen such disparities occur, but with majorly built Hawks.
> >Serious tuning compnents really have only recently become available,
> >oddly enough, so many built Hawks are actually backyard hack jobs.  I
> >have seen big-bore Hawks done with OMC MArine pistons and Chrysler
> >sleeves (if you can believe that.)
> 
> !  Wild!  I want one!  Once again, tho, if such a disparity occurs, then
> there is a PROBLEM, eh?  So the backyard hacker SCREWED UP somehow.
> 

You should have seen the "SingleCeptor" (tm) from a friend of mine.
It had an XT600 engine, a Chevy piston of some sort, VT250 Frame,
FZR tank, GSXR swingarm, FZR fairings, (some front end, can't remember what),
etc.  THAT was a hack job.  Total privateer racebike.

Mike

--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Fri Jun 16 10:06 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Hello Mr. rock...

> 
> Well I have been away for a while, and oh boy what a pile of e-mail.
> Here's my little story.  I was going up the 405 here in SoCal when all of a
> sudden a piece of the guy's pick-up in front of me or some rock he ran over,
> I don't know which, came hurling towards me and my 88 hawk.  THHHHHHHUD!!!
> 
> I have contacted Cycle Trends, which is where I get most of the major repairs
> I can't do in my appartement's carport.  They have quoted me some prices on
> complete exaust systems as well as just the one pipe that has a major dent in
> it.

Bummer story, eh.  Sorry 'bout the acci'dent'.

> 
> The pipe in question is the one that comes out of the front cylinder on the
> front bottom of the bike.
> 
> I am not a mechanical marvel and so I am not that well versed in the major
> mechanical aspects of my bike. Help.
> 
> My first question is:  My hawk is completly stock. Should I just change the
> one pipe or the entire system?  Let me say immediately that having a "super
> exaust" system is not primordial to me. Fixing the one pipe will obviously be
> cheaper.

Cheaper, yes. You have to weigh the additional cost for a great exhaust
system versus the marginal savings of a stock system and poor performance.

I'd go for the aftermarket.

> 
> My second question is:  What kind of exaust system for my hawk? Cycle Trends
> is telling me that Kerker and "Sand" trap or something like that are the only
> two companies that make after market exaust systems for my bike. Both run
> around $400.  That's a little steep for my blood. Do I even need an entire
> system? What are some of the other potential companies and are there any in
> the Southern California region. 

Run away from that repair shop as fast as you can.  They know virtually
nothing of Hawks.  Kerker/Supertrapp (same company), Two Brothers, MVR,
D+D (or is it DnD?), and a bunch of others make pipes for the Hawk.
They all cost about htesame (within $100 of each other for the good 
quality ones), and performance varies greatly depending on the pipe
you buy and the jets you install.

Any shop that tells me that ony 2 companies exist that make exhausts
for my bike should be flogged for stupidity (get Dogbert, champion
of justice :).

Getting a pipe is up to you completely.  I'd go fo the aftermarket pipe
if you're really into mountain taming, etc.  If it's only a commuter
scooter, then stick with stock, as it'll be quieter and less of a hassle.


Mike



--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Fri Jun 16 10:35 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: A conversation with Mike V.

On Fri, 16 Jun 1995 gilman@mtwil1.netcom.com wrote:

> Hi again Hawksters,
> 
> For a long time I've wanted to get my bike dynoed, but being a woman (hence
> having to learn things mechanical the hard and arduous way, i.e., trial and
> lots of error, lots of reading and asking questions -- which is one 
> reason why I love this list) and totally unfamiliar with the workings of a
> dynamometer, I've been hesitant.  Can someone tell me exactly what it entails?
> Do you have to take anything off the bike?   What's the _average_ cost?  Can
> you do comparisons with different variables all in one shot?
> 

A dynamometer is basically  a big treadmill, with sensors that can pick 
up exactly how much power you bike is making as the wheel spins (measured 
from the force the back wheel applies to the sesors.)

> Matt sez:
> 
> >Metropolis Motorcycle works charges $20 for a 4th gear rollon. This does
> >not include a Tach pickup. The x-axis is speed in mph.
> 
> What, for example, is a tach pickup?  8*0
> 

I find it amusing that they charge you $20 for a dyno run, and don't 
bother hooking up the tach, which on the DJ100 is a clip-on type 
(inductive) that requires literally NO effort to use.  In addition, what 
does a roll-on test tell you if you don't know what the RPM's are?  How 
can you trace a flat spot or surge?  For $20, I"ll drive your bike down 
the street and tell you how fast I went- it's the same thing.

To answer the question: a tach picvkup is the wire that connects your 
tachometer to the dyno, so that the computer that runs the dyno know 
exactly how fast your motor is spinning.  This enables the computer to 
cross-reference horsepower and engine RPM's, whoch allows you to trace 
flat spots or other troubles in the carburetion that you wouldn't 
necessarily notice driving down the street.


------------------------------

From giant!giant.IntraNet.com!steve@omega.IntraNet.com Fri Jun 16 10:35 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: One Brother Racing

>Now we know your real name!

	You have found me out.  Now I must kill you.

>Since you interviewed Mr. K. Erion, I can ask you,
>was there any indication that Erion Racing would be
>selling Hawk parts, or is he leaving that totally to TBR?

	Erion Racing is not ever going to sell Hawk parts,
	BUT - Kevin did 'advise' me, that if I wanted to
	change exhaust systems, to get the TBR pipe and
	the Erion Racing cannister.
	Kevin is a very talented and focused individual.
	If you can get to a national, visit the garage/paddock
	and check out the level of prep they do.
	And with not too many people.

	cheers,

	sa


------------------------------

From SYSPMS@UCSDMVSA.UCSD.EDU Fri Jun 16 10:50 PDT 1995
Subject: TBR pipe

I am tired of looking at the MVR/TBR conversation. Here is my two cents worth.
I have the TBR "old" style pipe and the HRC carb kit with Uni filters. This
flat spot I hear about DOES NOT happen on my bike. It pulls very hard all the
way to the rev limiter. Proper tuning is the key and the TBR pipe is set up
to use the carb kit! The kit includes new slides,springs,needles,main jets,
slow jets and some misc. stuff. People I have talked to say they are the same
parts as in the RC30 carbs. If anyone thinks that the so-called jet kits give
you everything you really need, you are dreaming. Case in point. A friend of
mine bought a Muzzy pipe and a Factory jet kit about 4 months ago and has a
flat spot, plus is still trying to get the setting right. The point is, if
you really want the best proformance then you have to use ALL of the proper
items to work together, not just the cheapest parts. Hope this helps to clear
up some of the hype.


Mike

'88 Bird of Pray

P.S. no I don't work for anyone in the motorcycle field


------------------------------

From ronrad@microsoft.com Fri Jun 16 11:10 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: Bump starting (bad?)



 ----------
From: 	Todd Dwight

Hi fellow Hawk nuts,
	After 32,000 miles the original battery in my '89 has given its
last crank. I'm am a VERY poor edu.-breath and cannot afford a new one   this
month...so here is the question:
	I've been bump starting it at least 4 times a day for a week now
(and have become pretty adept ;). It looks I will be going through this
routine until July 1st (payday). Is it bad or hard on the charging
system to be doing this? My turn signals were acting funny yesterday, but
I think that was just due to the rain...? I am pretty ignorant as far as
electrics go so any advice would be appreciated.

Yes, this can be pretty hard on the charging system.  Although, Honda
charging systems are pretty bullet proof.  It depends on how bad your
battery is.  If it holds anywhere between 11-12 volts when you start
the   bike,
then you will probably be ok for a little while.

Ron



#
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M/VSB)2$`AU`````#`!`0``````,`$1``````'@`]``$````%````4D4Z(```
$``!4L```
`
end
#


------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Fri Jun 16 11:10 PDT 1995
Subject: Stock Exhaust System FS Complete $50

Well, I'm really sick of all the extra Hawk junk that's cluttering my barn,
so I want to sell the bulkiest item:

Complete Stock NT650 HawkGT Exhaust System (no mounting bolts).  Includes
header pipes and collector/muffler unit.

$50 + shipping, but I'd rather not have to ship it, so priority to someone
who is willing to come to my house or Stanford University to pick it up.

If you're interested, let me know,

Hugh




------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Fri Jun 16 11:21 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: TBR pipe

     Did you get the carb kit from TBR?  How much?
     
     Jeff


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: TBR pipe
Author:  mike schwartz                         at 
INTERNET
Date:    6/16/95 10:50 AM


I am tired of looking at the MVR/TBR conversation. Here is my two cents worth. 
I have the TBR "old" style pipe and the HRC carb kit with Uni filters. This 
flat spot I hear about DOES NOT happen on my bike. It pulls very hard all the 
way to the rev limiter. Proper tuning is the key and the TBR pipe is set up
to use the carb kit! The kit includes new slides,springs,needles,main jets, 
slow jets and some misc. stuff. People I have talked to say they are the same 
parts as in the RC30 carbs. If anyone thinks that the so-called jet kits give 
you everything you really need, you are dreaming. Case in point. A friend of 
mine bought a Muzzy pipe and a Factory jet kit about 4 months ago and has a 
flat spot, plus is still trying to get the setting right. The point is, if 
you really want the best proformance then you have to use ALL of the proper 
items to work together, not just the cheapest parts. Hope this helps to clear 
up some of the hype.
     
     
Mike
     
'88 Bird of Pray
     
P.S. no I don't work for anyone in the motorcycle field



------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Fri Jun 16 12:20 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: Bump starting (bad?)

>#
>#
>
>Attachment converted: Soft Disk:WINMAIL.DAT (????/----) (00002AAF)

Hey Ron, what's this WINMAIL.DAT attachment?  Killer virus, or what?  =-)




------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Fri Jun 16 12:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: TBR pipe

Folks:

TBR Phone #:  714-832-5504
TBR Hawk Jet Kit:  $250 (ouch!)
        Tax (CA):    20
        Shipping:     5
                   +---
           Total:  $275 (ugh! Certainly not for the low on funds!)

But I just ordered one anyway (with a little help from VISA).  The reason I
DIDN'T get their kit before:  a TBR guy told me it DIDN'T have the sliders
& springs, so I thought it was RIDICULOUSLY priced for some jets and
needles.  I just called and confirmed that the kit DOES include ALL of the
goodies.

I will install it as soon as I get it, and post my results here.

Thanks for the tip, Mike.

Hugh

>     Did you get the carb kit from TBR?  How much?
>
>     Jeff

>>I am tired of looking at the MVR/TBR conversation. Here is my two cents
>>worth.
>>I have the TBR "old" style pipe and the HRC carb kit with Uni filters. This
>>flat spot I hear about DOES NOT happen on my bike. It pulls very hard all the
>>way to the rev limiter. Proper tuning is the key and the TBR pipe is set up
>>to use the carb kit! The kit includes new slides,springs,needles,main jets,
>>slow jets and some misc. stuff. People I have talked to say they are the same
>>parts as in the RC30 carbs. If anyone thinks that the so-called jet kits give
>>you everything you really need, you are dreaming. Case in point. A friend of
>>mine bought a Muzzy pipe and a Factory jet kit about 4 months ago and has a
>>flat spot, plus is still trying to get the setting right. The point is, if
>>you really want the best proformance then you have to use ALL of the proper
>>items to work together, not just the cheapest parts. Hope this helps to clear
>>up some of the hype.
>>
>>Mike




------------------------------

From SYSPMS@UCSDMVSA.UCSD.EDU Fri Jun 16 12:50 PDT 1995
Subject: TBR price

Sorry I forgot the price of the kit. $250 I hope this answers everyones
FAQ's.

Mike

'88 Bird of Pray


------------------------------

From ronrad@microsoft.com Fri Jun 16 13:05 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: Bump starting (bad?)



 ----------
From: 	Hugh A. MacMullan IV[SMTP:hugh@bonair.stanford.edu]

>#
>#
>
>Attachment converted: Soft Disk:WINMAIL.DAT (????/----) (00002AAF)

Hey Ron, what's this WINMAIL.DAT attachment?  Killer virus, or what?  =-)

Sigh.  Yet another list to have to humbly apologise for this to.  Welcome   to
the newest version of MS mail.  I love my company, and my product, I   really
do.  Anyway, the problem is that I can't turn the bloody thing off. 
It   encodes
all sorts of Rich Text goodies that allow me to send mail with neto   peachy
keen colors, italics, fonts etc.  Unfortunately, most people in the
real   world
can't receive it, get this bloody huge bandwidth wasting attachment, and
get ticked off at me.  And like I said, I can't turn the stupid
"feature"   off.
Sorry ...  BTW, I've already bugged this, and the reply was that it's a
Gateway problem.  Arrrgh.

Ron






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------------------------------

From kpmarie@binc.net Fri Jun 16 13:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: High-mileage Hawk

>>I'm interested in information regarding higher mileage hawks. I am the
>>original owner of a well maintained stock '88 with about 55,000 miles on it.
> [...]
 Also, if anyone has a hawk with 60,000+
>>miles I am interested in knowing how well it's holding up. Both these factors
>>will weigh heavily in my decision. Thanks for any info.

I like to read British bike mags, and one of the best for determining
the characteristics of a used bike is _Secondhand Bike_.  They have
compiled information about every bike sold in Europe for the last 15
years in their guides, which are in every copy of the magazine.  While
the pricing information is not useful, the description of the
different machines' good points and shortcomings agrees with both my
and my husband's experience.  (Seven different bikes, so far., and
about 75-100k divided between the bikes.)

Secondhand Bike's review of the Hawk is *extremely* favorable, citing
examples of fleet and despatch riders covering over 100,000 miles in
under 12 months with no major faults.  The only point they cite to
watch for is clutch failure on bikes with over 60,000 miles,
apparently everything else is incredibly durable.

Before I bought my Hawk, I asked around at the Rosemont Motorcycle
Show in Chicago, and was informed repeatedly that they were tough,
reliable motorcycles.  One gentleman cited the experience of his buddy
who decided to take a Hawk racing.  Said buddy bought all the parts he
thought would break during the season, and ended up not using a one.

This helped me to make up my mind about the bike, and I'm very happy
so far with it.

Kathy
kpmarie@binc.net



------------------------------

From goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us Fri Jun 16 13:20 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: A conversation with Mike V.

On Fri, 16 Jun 1995, Dennis Daniel Crowley wrote:

> I find it amusing that they charge you $20 for a dyno run, and don't 
> bother hooking up the tach, which on the DJ100 is a clip-on type 
> (inductive) that requires literally NO effort to use.  In addition, what 
> does a roll-on test tell you if you don't know what the RPM's are?  How 
> can you trace a flat spot or surge?  For $20, I"ll drive your bike down 
> the street and tell you how fast I went- it's the same thing.

I was told they needed to get to the coils, which requires some effort.
I'll ask about the clip on next time I am there. 

My original runs were done with the tach hooked up, so I have a reference
point. Also, the horsepower is still graphed, just with rear wheel
speed in mph instead of rpm as the x axis. They'll usually do about 4
runs and complete w an EGA during the run and will even make idle circuit
adjustments if needed (which is easy to do on the Hawk). These guys will
also sit you down and explain what they've done, and will answer lots of
questions and let you watch if you want, so the service is not quite a
bare-boned as it may have seemed in my first post and much more
imformative than riding down the street. I've made numerous runs there and
those along with my messing with needle heights, main and slow jet sizes
and their advice, I'm able to make semi intelligent (and getting more so)
choices about what changes to attempt.

Pam,
The dyno (dynojet rear wheel dyno) measures HP by measuring the rate
that your bike is able to accelerate a 900 pound drum, upon which your
real wheel sits. At least that is my (admittedly simple) understanding of
how it works. Most shops (as previously noted) will do any amount of dyno
tuning beyond the simple rollon,such as installing jet kits and
pipes, but it's more expensive. I think I paid $125 for a jet kit
installation (including the cost of the kit itself).

Matt/OH   








------------------------------

From goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us Fri Jun 16 13:40 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: One Brother Racing

On Fri, 16 Jun 1995 steve@giant.IntraNet.com wrote:

> >Since you interviewed Mr. K. Erion, I can ask you,
> >was there any indication that Erion Racing would be
> >selling Hawk parts, or is he leaving that totally to TBR?
> 
> 	Erion Racing is not ever going to sell Hawk parts,

AT Mid-Ohio I talked to the owner of Manson Technologies, He said he has
been commissioned by Erion Racing to make a titanium fastener kit for
the Hawk. I got on his mailing list, I'll post the information when I get
it in case anybody is interested. (not me, thank$  (G)  )

Matt/OH




------------------------------

From <@adi.analog.com:Kenneth.Lawas@analog.com> Fri Jun 16 13:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Dyno



> The dyno (dynojet rear wheel dyno) measures HP by measuring the rate
> that your bike is able to accelerate a 900 pound drum, upon which your
> real wheel sits.

  I've watched a dyno run, but didn't realize the drum weighed 900lbs.
  Is this why the tire manufacturers say to never run your good tires
  on the dyno?

  -Ken


------------------------------

From goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us Fri Jun 16 13:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: TBR pipe

On Fri, 16 Jun 1995, mike schwartz wrote:

> I have the TBR "old" style pipe and the HRC carb kit with Uni filters. This
> flat spot I hear about DOES NOT happen on my bike. It pulls very hard all the
> way to the rev limiter. Proper tuning is the key and the TBR pipe is set up

I have a friend with the same setup (although he uses the stock airbox
with Uni foam sandwiched between the halves). He claims the same thing
(just to back you up). I've not ridden his bike, nor has he ridden a stock
bike, so neither of us has any points of reference. I hope to soon resolve
that. 




------------------------------

From <@gaudi.CSUFresno.EDU:tdp11@lennon.pub.csufresno.edu> Fri Jun 16 13:50 PDT 1995
Subject: hawkworks, Sam's club #?

Hi all,
I would like to receive the Hawkworks newsletter, could someone give me 
the info on how to go about it? I know its $20(including t-shirt)

Also, someone mentioned a new battery costing $40 thru Sam's Club (Kelly T. 
i think) anyway, could i get their number?

E-mail me directly if you would rather not clutter the list :)

Thanks!
	todd
'89 red


------------------------------

From marty@carter.ca.boeing.com Fri Jun 16 14:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Dyno

> 
>   I've watched a dyno run, but didn't realize the drum weighed 900lbs.
>   Is this why the tire manufacturers say to never run your good tires
>   on the dyno?
> 
>   -Ken

Some people claim that dyno's heat up a tire way too much.  I have
dyno'd using my race tires and then gone and raced on them - never had
a problem so far.  This doesn't mean that I won't sometime.  Dyno's are
rude to your tires for the following reasons:

	      1) strapping the rear end down very tight (thus
	         compressing the tire and suspension quite a lot).
	      2) nothing is drawing the heat away from the tire.
--
see ya!

marty 



------------------------------

From GTRider9@aol.com Fri Jun 16 17:40 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: HawkWorks

In a message dated 95-06-16 10:49:24 EDT, pcrandal@adobe.com writes:

>t's time for me to renew my subscription, but nowhere in the
>newsletter
>does it say how much it costs. I tried faxing them, got no response.
>Does
>anyone know how much it costs?
>
I've been wondering the same thing.  If anyone knows, please pass it along
the list.

Thanks

Dave


------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Fri Jun 16 18:05 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: One Brother Racing

As long as we're on the topic of weight-saving... is there anyone out 
there interested in aluminum subframes?  What I"ve got now is race-only, 
but I"m trying to make up a streetable version that diesn't take hacking 
to install.  I"m using t-6061 square tubing, .065" thick.  If there's 
some people interested, I"ll put more effort into the street project....

C y'all,
DC

P.S.- anyone going to Bridgehampton next weekend?




------------------------------

From AGault@aol.com Sat Jun 17 16:05 PDT 1995
Subject: valve tapping?

help on monday i am getting my valuve\s adjusted due to harse tapping....does
anyone have valve clearances??/   oh by the way thanks for all the help
greatly appreciated.....any suggestions on valves or what may be causing
noisey tapping is appreciatted ....a hawkster from pa......


------------------------------

From GTRider9@aol.com Sat Jun 17 16:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: SOUNDS LIKE MONEY

In a message dated 95-06-16 23:31:08 EDT, AGault writes:

>is anyone else having trouble getting into the hawk web site

I usually have to try for a couple of days before I manage to get in.  I
never have been able to access any of the photo stuff.

Dave


------------------------------

From <@adi.analog.com:Kenneth.Lawas@analog.com> Mon Jun 19 08:20 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: valve tapping?



> help on monday i am getting my valuve\s adjusted due to harse
> tapping....does anyone have valve clearances??/   oh by the way thanks
> for all the help greatly appreciated.....any suggestions on valves or
> what may be causing noisey tapping is appreciatted ....a hawkster from
> pa......

  The english equivalents (I don't have metric feeler gauges):

  Intakes should be 0.006-in, exhaust should be 0.008-in.  Both are
  plus or minus 0.0008-in.  Measure the clearances COLD.

  


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Mon Jun 19 08:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: SOUNDS LIKE MONEY

> 
> In a message dated 95-06-16 23:31:08 EDT, AGault writes:
> 
> >is anyone else having trouble getting into the hawk web site
> 
> I usually have to try for a couple of days before I manage to get in.  I
> never have been able to access any of the photo stuff.

Last time I tried, everythng connected fine.  Sometimes, however, with the
traffic that runs through our site, I can't even e-mail successfully (at
least in any reasonably time frame).

Mike



------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Mon Jun 19 09:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Ooooooh, my sunburn . . . ;)


Hey everyone:

Here's the update from Sears Point on Sunday.  Have a ball:


The general consensus was, from my vantage point, that TBR pipes
were the predominant ones on the track.  The race leaders in the
650 twins class ran them, all others were behind the leaders.

Hugh made it into the pits (I was stuck at my turn), and told me
that indeed most of the pipes were TBR.  There were a few Supertrapp,
some others (DnD, etc), and one funky custom thingy that lookes
awful and sounded worse.  It was TWO sided (a two into two), although
I only saw one of its sides (Hugh saw both).  It sounded extremely
unhealthy, but did pretty well in the races I saw it in.

I'll leave it up to Hugh to verify this information, since he
was the one in the pits, and not me.

--

Besides that, it was a great day at the races.  There were a LOT of
Hawks there, 'bout 15 - 20.  Most of them (sans 1) had a fairing,
and many of them appeared to be TBR or similar RC30 jobbies.  One
was a yellow Hawk (nice!), but with the little Lockhart looking
thing on the front end (shortie generic fairing).  Unfortunately,
he was a memeber of the only crash on my turn yesterday.  ;(

2-Smokes are COOL!!!  We saw 125, 250, and even a handful of 500s.
The 500 I saw was ludicrously fast, wheelie-ing everywhere it went.

Open class is COOL!!!  Also saw lots of open classers, primarily 900RRs.
They were just as ridiculously fast as the 500 2smokes, and would wheelie
at the drop of a hat.

All in all, it was a pretty fun day, considering it was the first time
for me as a turn worker at the track. I will DEFINITELY do it again,
but next time, I'll bring a hat and some sunblock (I look like a tomato,
and feel like a space heater).


Mike

--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Mon Jun 19 09:25 PDT 1995
Subject: AFM races, TBR pipe %age

I said:
>> >> I agree.  TBR piped bikes regularly do very well in competition...if there
>> >> were such a disparity in horsepower, they wouldn't be used by racers, eh
>> >> (hmmm, I can see the "racer" flamethrowers igniting...)?
>> >>

Someone said:
>> >To be honest, of the several dozen people I know who race Hawks, not one
>> >of them has a TBR.  The broke people buy Muzzy's, those in the know ride
>> >'Trapp.  There is the odd Kerker (bought on closeout) and any number of
>> >homebuilds, but no TBR's.

I said:
>> Hmmmm...I could swear I remember several racers with TBR setups racing
>> AFM...I'll take a survey this Sunday, with Mike Nielsen as witness, up at
>> Sears Point.

Mike said:
>I shall never tell a lie.  Yup, we'll check out the Hawk races on Sunday
>and fill everyone in as to what exhausts are out there, and in what numbers.
>
>I'll bring the geeky engineering paper (green lined stuff) and my handy
>dandy geeky engineering pencils as well.

Wellllll....what with all of the action, I never had time to do an actual
COUNT (and Mike forgot his slide rule), but in the 650 Twins race (I think
they were all Hawks), I would estimate that AT LEAST 1/3 of the riders had
TBR pipes.  The rest were a mix of S'trapp, Muzzy, Kerker, and some REALLY
bizarre custom jobs...point being that TBR pipes were far and away the most
popular pipe -- there weren't more than 2 or 3 of any other type.

Most disgusting (yet intriguing) custom exhaust:  2 into 2, one exiting on
the left way up under the seat, the other in the "normal" right side spot.
The canisters (if you could call them that) were about 8 inches
long...looked like a S'trapp cut off with a hack saw -- very loud, covered
with grime, it was hilarious.  Can't remember how he did in the race.

Most beautiful custom exhaust:  2 into 1, flat sided, mounted VERY high on
the right side, carbon canister, yummmmmy!  No idea who made it tho', as I
only saw it going by on the track, quickly.  Any ideas?

Race report:  oodles of fun.  Very windy, a bit clowdy in the AM but super
nice by the end of the day.  Looonnnggg day, what with all of the restarts
and such.

Turn 11 report:  if you aren't familiar with turn 11 at Sears Point, it's a
180 degree turn, and they hit it coming out of a VERY fast section, so
there are often crashes.  Only 7 yesterday, 5 in one race (125's), which is
very few for that turn, and no one got hurt (other than bruised egos).  I'm
glad that 5 125's fell and not 5 750's...it's amazing how light those
little things are.

Turnworkin's a lot of fun (besides getting up at 5 am to do it), and
there's free beer, too!  =)  It's s hard, exciting, adrenaline-pumping good
time.  What did you think, Mike?  Anyone who's interested in helpin' out at
Sears Point on Sunday, July 9, you can mail me and I'll give you the
skinny.

Hugh




------------------------------

From spatel@mcp.com Mon Jun 19 10:05 PDT 1995
Subject: My Hawk Wet Its Pants

     
     No kidding, I thought I really did it.  Let me explain..
     
     It was a hot Saturday here in Indy and after riding for over 100 miles 
     I had stopped to ask for directions.  I must have been stopped for a 
     couple of minutes and I look down and I had coolant gushing out from 
     the overflow pipe.  I must have lost atleast a quart of it.
     
     Does anyone know why this happened ?
     
     I checked the fan and found that the wires had come loose and I 
     reattached them.  Is there a way to test if the cooling fan is 
     working?  I have been watching it and it has not come on since I put 
     the wires back together.
     
     Any words of wisdom would be appreciated.
     
     
     Thanks.
     
     Duke
     '89 Red


------------------------------

From MAILER-DAEMON@mail05.mail.aol.com Mon Jun 19 10:55 PDT 1995
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable

The mail you sent could not be delivered to:
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>From frank@dsea.com Mon Jun 19 13:58:54 1995
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Date: Mon, 19 Jun 1995 10:34:30 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 
Message-Id: <199506191734.KAA15847@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: Jets, airbox, etc.
Content-Length: 1297


I changed the jets with the Dynojet kit last night.  There were a
few mistakes in the instructions, but I got through.  I've
not yet balanced the carbs; I'll get to that.

I removed the top of the airbox and fabricated a few clips to hold the
filter down, using the original airbox screws.  One thing I noticed
was how much LOUDER it was.  Here is my question. 

I have a bit of underhood insulation left from my Chevelle.  This is 
non-flammable mineral wool.  I am very tempted to take the hawk tank
back off, spray the bottom with the correct glue and put the sound
killing insulation on the tank.  Does this sound like a good idea?
This product is engineered for the environment, but I have never heard
of such an application.  There is plenty of room due to the now-
removed air box cover.  

WRT the kit; I used 144/140 with the kit-provided shims on the stock 
needles.  I have a oxygen sensor endcap for my Supertrapp, and I'll
be tuning for clean burn at cruise.  ( Should I patent the 
Supertrapp oxygen sensor endcap idea?  I think I might.  )

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097



------------------------------

From MAILER-DAEMON@mail03.mail.aol.com Mon Jun 19 10:55 PDT 1995
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable

The mail you sent could not be delivered to:
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>From frank@dsea.com Mon Jun 19 13:58:52 1995
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Date: Mon, 19 Jun 1995 10:34:30 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 
Message-Id: <199506191734.KAA15847@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: Jets, airbox, etc.
Content-Length: 1297


I changed the jets with the Dynojet kit last night.  There were a
few mistakes in the instructions, but I got through.  I've
not yet balanced the carbs; I'll get to that.

I removed the top of the airbox and fabricated a few clips to hold the
filter down, using the original airbox screws.  One thing I noticed
was how much LOUDER it was.  Here is my question. 

I have a bit of underhood insulation left from my Chevelle.  This is 
non-flammable mineral wool.  I am very tempted to take the hawk tank
back off, spray the bottom with the correct glue and put the sound
killing insulation on the tank.  Does this sound like a good idea?
This product is engineered for the environment, but I have never heard
of such an application.  There is plenty of room due to the now-
removed air box cover.  

WRT the kit; I used 144/140 with the kit-provided shims on the stock 
needles.  I have a oxygen sensor endcap for my Supertrapp, and I'll
be tuning for clean burn at cruise.  ( Should I patent the 
Supertrapp oxygen sensor endcap idea?  I think I might.  )

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097



------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Mon Jun 19 11:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Jets, airbox, etc.

Hey Frank....

I think that insulation is a dandy idea- let us know how it comes out.

On the DJ bit, though, mine never ran right with a DJ kit.  they sent me 
three different set of needles, two sets of mains, but everytime it ran 
right inn one spot, it fell on its face somewhere else.

I just gopt my Factory kit in the mail TODAY.  It should go in this 
weekend , and I"ll post results ASAP.

C y'all, 
DC



------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Mon Jun 19 11:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: My Hawk Wet Its Pants

> 
>      
>      No kidding, I thought I really did it.  Let me explain..
>      
>      It was a hot Saturday here in Indy and after riding for over 100 miles 
>      I had stopped to ask for directions.  I must have been stopped for a 
>      couple of minutes and I look down and I had coolant gushing out from 
>      the overflow pipe.  I must have lost atleast a quart of it.
>      
>      Does anyone know why this happened ?

Mine did just as described a while back, last summer I think.  

The problem is this:  The Hawk runs fairly warm anyway, but the water 
and antifreeze/coolant keep the heat circulating, and transmit the
heat elsewhere (atmoshpere).  THis happens when the engine is running,
and the water pump is active.  When you shut the engine off, the
water stagnates, and gets REALLY hot in the critical areas (like in the engine itself) .  The
heat builds up pressure in the system, and eventually purges itself
out of the overflow hose.  The alternative (if it were a sealed system)
would be a pretty dramatic explosion, or a big leak.


>      
>      I checked the fan and found that the wires had come loose and I 
>      reattached them.  Is there a way to test if the cooling fan is 
>      working?  I have been watching it and it has not come on since I put 
>      the wires back together.

Make sure the fan is working.  It is EXTREMELY important when the bike
is stopped for those pesky traffic lights, etc., and the weather is warm.

If it's broken, fix it.  It serves its purpose in the hot stuff (mine
has saved me many tims in the past).

>      Any words of wisdom would be appreciated.

Always bring sunblock to the track, even if it looks like it'll
be a cloudy day (Mike's tip of the day, #382). =)


Mike
--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Mon Jun 19 11:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Ooooooh, my sunburn . . . ;)

On Mon, 19 Jun 1995, Mike Nielsen wrote:

> 
> Hey everyone:
> 
> Here's the update from Sears Point on Sunday.  Have a ball:
> 
> 
> The general consensus was, from my vantage point, that TBR pipes
> were the predominant ones on the track.  The race leaders in the
> 650 twins class ran them, all others were behind the leaders.

Hmmm... indeed surprising.  Perhaps there is soe other reason for this in 
California?  Here in the NE- Summit, Loudon, Bridgehampton, Lime Rock, 
etc., I have seen at best one or two TBR pipes in competition, both on 
Hawks and other Hondas.  As I said, we have a salad of assorted pipes 
here, none of which seem to win consistently.  Funny enough, the guy 
dominating our supertwins classes right now is riding on a STOCK setup!

My curiosity is piqued- input, anyone?

DC



------------------------------

From Victor.A.King@dartvax.dartmouth.edu Mon Jun 19 11:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Ooooooh, my sunburn . . . ;)

--- You wrote:
Hmmm... indeed surprising.  Perhaps there is soe other reason for this in 
California?  Here in the NE- Summit, Loudon, Bridgehampton, Lime Rock, 
etc., I have seen at best one or two TBR pipes in competition, both on 
Hawks and other Hondas.  As I said, we have a salad of assorted pipes 
here, none of which seem to win consistently.  Funny enough, the guy 
dominating our supertwins classes right now is riding on a STOCK setup!

My curiosity is piqued- input, anyone?

DC
--- end of quoted material ---

With all the $-ola going into making our bikes as far from stock as possible,
esp for the racers, i DO find that funny.  

I just want to back DC up on this TBR thing. Last time I was at Loudon I only
saw one or two TBR pipes, and i prowled the pits all day.  
it seemed like supertrapp had the strongest showing.
I saw one muzzy, one d&d, and one yoshi (Brian's) besides the aforementioned
and the stockers.

must be a regional infatuation.
S


------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Mon Jun 19 12:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Ooooooh, my sunburn . . . ;)

>--- You wrote:
>Hmmm... indeed surprising.  Perhaps there is soe other reason for this in
>California?  Here in the NE- Summit, Loudon, Bridgehampton, Lime Rock,
>etc., I have seen at best one or two TBR pipes in competition, both on
>Hawks and other Hondas.  As I said, we have a salad of assorted pipes
>here, none of which seem to win consistently.  Funny enough, the guy
>dominating our supertwins classes right now is riding on a STOCK setup!
>
>My curiosity is piqued- input, anyone?
>
>DC
>--- end of quoted material ---
>
>With all the $-ola going into making our bikes as far from stock as possible,
>esp for the racers, i DO find that funny.

Heheh!  Crazy.  Can't imagine trying to take a hard right hander on the
track with that fat little hunk o' steel poking down...scary.

>I just want to back DC up on this TBR thing. Last time I was at Loudon I only
>saw one or two TBR pipes, and i prowled the pits all day.

Yeah-yeah, sure.  =-)

>it seemed like supertrapp had the strongest showing.
>I saw one muzzy, one d&d, and one yoshi (Brian's) besides the aforementioned
>and the stockers.
>
>must be a regional infatuation.

Isn't TBR in So.Cal?  They certainly do more racing themselves out
here...so yer probably right.  More exposure out here = more interest, I
guess.  Or maybe us Left Coasters just like to buy the best (read:  most
expensive) goodies.

Hugh

P.S. -- waitin' on that Two Brother$ Racing jetkit...gonna dyno as soon as
I get it a'flowin' correctly and send y'all the results...assuming they
aren't TOO embarassing.




------------------------------

From MAILER-DAEMON@emin04.mail.aol.com Mon Jun 19 13:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable

The mail you sent could not be delivered to:
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Date: Mon, 19 Jun 1995 13:15:23 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 
Message-Id: <199506192015.NAA16632@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: more pipe ideas
Content-Length: 574


About TBR:  I think you are right about the Left Coast ( so does 
Peter Egan ).  The folks here want to buy better looking, and perhaps
better performing equipment.  Also, TBR is local ( just down the street,
sort of, from here ) and local equipment means local interest.

Me, I run a Supertrapp, which I bought when I lived in MA.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097



------------------------------

From MAILER-DAEMON@emin04.mail.aol.com Mon Jun 19 13:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable

The mail you sent could not be delivered to:
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Date: Mon, 19 Jun 1995 13:15:23 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 
Message-Id: <199506192015.NAA16632@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: more pipe ideas
Content-Length: 574


About TBR:  I think you are right about the Left Coast ( so does 
Peter Egan ).  The folks here want to buy better looking, and perhaps
better performing equipment.  Also, TBR is local ( just down the street,
sort of, from here ) and local equipment means local interest.

Me, I run a Supertrapp, which I bought when I lived in MA.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097



------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Mon Jun 19 14:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: more pipe ideas

> 
> 
> About TBR:  I think you are right about the Left Coast ( so does 
> Peter Egan ).  The folks here want to buy better looking, and perhaps
> better performing equipment.  Also, TBR is local ( just down the street,
> sort of, from here ) and local equipment means local interest.
> 
> Me, I run a Supertrapp, which I bought when I lived in MA.

Wasn't (or isn't) Supertapp based in Sacramento???  I remember a Sac.
address on my "Congratulations on purchasing the finest exhaust in the . . . "
papers that came with the pipe.

Mike



--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From SMI1%CnoOpt%CTS@bangate.pge.com Mon Jun 19 14:35 PDT 1995
Subject: re:Re: more pipe ideas



>Wasn't (or isn't) Supertapp based in Sacramento???  I remember a Sac.
>address on my "Congratulations on purchasing the finest exhaust in the . . . 
>"
>papers that came with the pipe.
>
>Mike

Supertrap/kerker used to be in West Sacramento, but they moved about a year
ago.

Steve Itano
smi1@pge.com


------------------------------

From Jakedj@aol.com Mon Jun 19 14:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Ooooooh, my sunburn . . . ;)

HEYYYYY:

I LIKE THE STUBBY LITTLE PIPE!

I think its cute!

Jakedj


------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Mon Jun 19 15:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Pipes (again???)

     
     OK, with all this talk about pipes let me ask a rhetorical
     question... All "flat spots" aside, it seems like you have to
     pay a premium for the TBR pipe (about $75 for a similarly
     equipped MVR pipe -- the other I'm considering) PLUS you have
     to pop $250 for the TBR "jet" kit (which includes all the extra
     carb goodies).  Even if the TBR pipe doesn't have a flat spot,
     is it worth $325 more than a properly jetted MVR pipe.  I'm 
     sure there's not that much of a hp difference.
     
     Did anyone talk to Velasco about the supposedly improperly formed
     pipe that would not work with the stock turn signals, etc?  What
     was the outcome?  I'm very interested...
     
     Jeff



------------------------------

From jel@walker.com Mon Jun 19 15:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re[2]: Next Dr. Wong Clinic 7/16

 


     
>After hearing ride reports about the last "doc wong" ride it seems that 
>this discussion was skipped.  The ride report I read listed nothing but 
>people riding well beyond their ability levels and the ensuing crashes. 
>Thank goodness no one was seriously injured, and good luck to the brave 
>souls willing to risk it yet again.

Tim,

I think you have the wrong information.  With close to 100 riders, there
were two crashes the whole day.  One of them was 5-10mph "I wasn't paying
attention" and the other was a bit more serious because the guy was,
according to my info, riding over his head.  This was my first time
riding and I would have to say that for that many people, the ride
was organized pretty well.  The people I rode with rode within their 
ability levels.

Jeff



------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Mon Jun 19 15:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Next Dr. Wong Clinic 7/16

> 
> 
>      
> >After hearing ride reports about the last "doc wong" ride it seems that 
> >this discussion was skipped.  The ride report I read listed nothing but 
> >people riding well beyond their ability levels and the ensuing crashes. 
> >Thank goodness no one was seriously injured, and good luck to the brave 
> >souls willing to risk it yet again.
> 
> Tim,
> 
> I think you have the wrong information.  With close to 100 riders, there
> were two crashes the whole day.  One of them was 5-10mph "I wasn't paying
> attention" and the other was a bit more serious because the guy was,
> according to my info, riding over his head.  This was my first time
> riding and I would have to say that for that many people, the ride
> was organized pretty well.  The people I rode with rode within their 
> ability levels.

Yup, that about sums it up.  Only 2 crashes, 1 was ridiculous, the
other, well, we all go a _bit_ too fast on occasion...

I'm gonna go again.  The last time was a total failure for me due
to health reasons (thought I was gonna die), so I have to give this
one its fair shake with a clear head and normal sinuses.

Mike


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Tue Jun 20 08:20 PDT 1995
Subject: (fwd) FS: F2 race suspension


Here's another set of F2 forks if anyone is interested:

-------

Path: hpchase.rose.hp.com!icon!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hpax!news1.boi.hp.com!hp-pcd!sdd.hp.com!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e1a.megaweb.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: kia001@aol.com (KIA 001)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.racing
Subject: FS: F2 race suspension
Date: 20 Jun 1995 03:44:42 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 14
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3s5u9a$q2s@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: kia001@aol.com (KIA 001)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

Ohlins and Fox rear shocks, both in excellent shape , no teardown  needed,
Ohlins has piggy back res., fox is remote res, both with ride height

ohlins           $375
fox               $275

also   94 front forks revalved by Lindemann, no leaky seals, or bent tubes

$500 for the pair


can ship anywhere and right away

e back if interested please


------------------------------

From Hawky647@aol.com Tue Jun 20 10:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Pipes (again???)

You don't need to buy the $250 HRC jet kit.  The Factory Titanium jet kit
works fine and only costs $10-20 more than the regular jet kit.


------------------------------

From ckrieger@osf1.gmu.edu Tue Jun 20 13:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Throttle hand pain.


Is it just me or does anyone elses throttle hand start to hurt after a
while?  I think it is either one of two possibilities:  Heavy throttle
spring or bars tilted in too much for tall riders.  By a while I mean
about an hour or so.

How important is that pin that keeps the bars at that angle?

-cliff

PS I got the bike dynoed yesterday totally stock.  45 hp at about 6500.
I will try to post a gif of the chart later this week, or early next.



------------------------------

From Hawknutt69@aol.com Tue Jun 20 13:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Fwd: *******Virus Alert*********

Got this from a friend, thought I oughta warn anybody I could....

deon
---------------------
Forwarded message:
Subj:    Fwd: *******Virus Alert*********
Date:    95-06-19 21:25:16 EDT
From:    Amy Bright
To:      Hawknutt69

for your info...
---------------------
Forwarded message:
Subj:    *******Virus Alert*********
Date:    95-06-19 19:57:08 EDT
From:    CPPwannabe
To:      CPPwannabe

    !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  VIRUS ALERT
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


     The following virus alert was received from Texas A&M university.
 Premise Data Security at AMR contacted an anti-virus software vendor,
 Symantec, and confirmed it is NO JOKE.  This virus cannot be detected by
anti-virus software.  It only becomes active if you try to use it.

     ********************************************
     Subject: VIRUS ALERT
     Date: Monday, June 05, 1995 11:02AM

     We have word from PKWARE that someone on the Internet is distributing
files under the pretext of being an upgrade to the PKZIP/PKUNZIP file
compression program.  The bogus file names are:

          PKZ300B.EXE  and
          PKZ300B.ZIP

This is NOT a version of PKZIP and it will try to erase your hard
drive if you use it. If you encounter these, please IGNORE THEM.

     The most recent version of PKZIP is 2.04g.
     ********************************************


------------------------------

From Hawknutt69@aol.com Tue Jun 20 14:10 PDT 1995
Subject: hmmmm

 Any body out there have any experience with head porting flow bench testing,
exhaust port matching, etc.?  If so I have an odd question for you, spawned
by my reccently deflated wallet... ( divorce, lost yob, and more...)
 
It occurs to me that it might be possible to do something with the origional
TBR pipes, like people have been doing with 351 clevlands for years. Anybody
familiar with the cleveland's problem? Gaping intake ports, that flow huge
ammounts of air on top, @ high rpm, but fall on their faces at normal driving
speeds. The huge maw slows the incoming intake air charge so much, there is
little intake charge velocity to promote good cylinder filling at low rpm,
thus no torque. Everybody know's that long narrow intake runners promote good
tq, while fat short ones good hp, all other things being equal. If you look
at all these new standards being brought out to meet the markets request for
them from awhile ago, you'll notice that a lot of the re-tuning of sportbike
engines focuses on less valve overlap, smaller diameter carbs, and more to
promote better low rpm performance.

Well it seems that hawks don't like the rapid change from a smallish diameter
exhaust port to a large pipe opening, that combined with the particular
tuning length of the headers on the TBR pipes seems to cause a tq problem at
certain rpm, that is exascerbated with improper carb tuning, and or certain
other eng.tuning combinations. Mine has that problem. What I'm wondering is
would it maybe possible to incorperate a simmilar fix, to what 351 tuners
use?  A variation on thier restrictor plates. They stick what's basically a
stamped piece of sheet metal in the intake port that covers up roughly half
the intake opening, speeds up the intake velocity, and vwalla! Instant almost
free torque. Maybe a variation on that might work for those of us who have a
tq problem with the large diameter head pipe TBR pipe, to combat the
inversion problem that causes that flat spot. Any ideas or thoughts?

deon...


------------------------------

From MAILER-DAEMON@emin04.mail.aol.com Tue Jun 20 15:10 PDT 1995
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable

The mail you sent could not be delivered to:
550 nt650hawk is not a known user

The text you sent follows:

>From frank@dsea.com Tue Jun 20 18:15:24 1995
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Date: Tue, 20 Jun 1995 14:45:07 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 
Message-Id: <199506202145.OAA24954@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: hmmmm2
Content-Length: 1555


I've thought about this dual flow problem a bit.  There are a few
solutions out there in the marketplace for related head configurations.
None of this is easy or cheap.

First, take the Taurus SHO approach, and use the two different Hawk valves
differently.  Have seperate tuned runners for each valve, one fat, the
other skinny and long.  Not quite the perfect solution.

Or perhaps take the ZR1 Corvette approach and have a seperate throttle
body for those high volume flow periods, like WOT.  This could also
be done with excessive machine work.

Finally, take the F1 approach, and put a Helmholtz resonator in line
with a properly tuned intake.  Where to put it?

Perhaps take the Ducati Weber Morelli approach and use dual injectors
with dual intake tracks that promote rotation of the charge mix.

What about that recently patented, tuned vortex-induction device 
used with 4bbl carbs.  A small one could be built to promote better 
atomization at low flow.   I bet I could make one from a GPz750T intake
spool. 

Then there is the obvious two stroke reed valve.  That should work.

What about borrowing some VTEC hardware from the other side of the 
company?  

Any of these would work.  Why don't you send me $6.23 million, a dozen
heads and a CNC milling machine.  I'll make a few prototypes this 
year.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097



------------------------------

From MAILER-DAEMON@mail05.mail.aol.com Tue Jun 20 15:10 PDT 1995
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable

The mail you sent could not be delivered to:
550 hawknutt is not a known user

The text you sent follows:

>From frank@dsea.com Tue Jun 20 18:14:00 1995
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	(1.37.109.11/16.2) id AA032056440; Tue, 20 Jun 1995 18:14:00 -0400
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Date: Tue, 20 Jun 1995 14:45:07 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 
Message-Id: <199506202145.OAA24954@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: hmmmm2
Content-Length: 1555


I've thought about this dual flow problem a bit.  There are a few
solutions out there in the marketplace for related head configurations.
None of this is easy or cheap.

First, take the Taurus SHO approach, and use the two different Hawk valves
differently.  Have seperate tuned runners for each valve, one fat, the
other skinny and long.  Not quite the perfect solution.

Or perhaps take the ZR1 Corvette approach and have a seperate throttle
body for those high volume flow periods, like WOT.  This could also
be done with excessive machine work.

Finally, take the F1 approach, and put a Helmholtz resonator in line
with a properly tuned intake.  Where to put it?

Perhaps take the Ducati Weber Morelli approach and use dual injectors
with dual intake tracks that promote rotation of the charge mix.

What about that recently patented, tuned vortex-induction device 
used with 4bbl carbs.  A small one could be built to promote better 
atomization at low flow.   I bet I could make one from a GPz750T intake
spool. 

Then there is the obvious two stroke reed valve.  That should work.

What about borrowing some VTEC hardware from the other side of the 
company?  

Any of these would work.  Why don't you send me $6.23 million, a dozen
heads and a CNC milling machine.  I'll make a few prototypes this 
year.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097



------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Tue Jun 20 15:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: hmmmm

Hmmmm.... well, for what it's worth, here's a bit of data gleaned this 
weekend from Supertrapp & Factory.

A common Hawk mod, of course, is to remove the airbox and pop on a set of 
cheap pod foam filters.  However, this murders the midrange for exactly 
the reasons you described. The suggestions given to me included, of 
course, replacing the airbox, or installing velocity stacks.

Incidentally, has anyone seen the price of a set of velocity stacks?  $50 
for a piece of PVC?  I was stunned...

I think the restrictor plate idea has some technological merit, especially 
for those with the pipe in question and the problem in question.  
However, for the rest of us who don't mind messing about a bit, the 
consensus seemed to be that a set of stacks would be a really good idea.  
For the poor among us (myself included), the idea has sprung into my mind 
to just use the airbox with no filter at all, thus lengthening the intake 
tract just like a stack would, although compromising a bit of airflow.

Further input, anyone?

DC



------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Tue Jun 20 16:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: hmmmm

> 
> Hmmmm.... well, for what it's worth, here's a bit of data gleaned this 
> weekend from Supertrapp & Factory.
> 
> A common Hawk mod, of course, is to remove the airbox and pop on a set of 
> cheap pod foam filters.  However, this murders the midrange for exactly 
> the reasons you described. The suggestions given to me included, of 
> course, replacing the airbox, or installing velocity stacks.
> 
> Incidentally, has anyone seen the price of a set of velocity stacks?  $50 
> for a piece of PVC?  I was stunned...

I don't see a problem in modifying PVC, simple sheet metal, etc., to
creat velocity stacks for the Hawk.

> 
> I think the restrictor plate idea has some technological merit, especially 
> for those with the pipe in question and the problem in question.  
> However, for the rest of us who don't mind messing about a bit, the 
> consensus seemed to be that a set of stacks would be a really good idea.  
> For the poor among us (myself included), the idea has sprung into my mind 
> to just use the airbox with no filter at all, thus lengthening the intake 
> tract just like a stack would, although compromising a bit of airflow.
> 

I agree.  I have, however, simply removed the TOP of my airbox (did this
a long time ago), and have had good results with no loss in midrange
(from what I can tell).  I REALLY want to put my bike on a dyno to see
how it's going, since so far it's only seat of my pants tuning.

Damn it, somebody needs to get rich and buy this list a Dyno!

AAlternatively to removing the top of the box, perhaps creating a set
of stacks to work with the existing airbox?  I haven't really looked
into this idea.  Anyone?

Mike



------------------------------

From goodmat@freenet.columbus.oh.us Tue Jun 20 19:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: hmmmm

On Tue, 20 Jun 1995, Dennis Daniel Crowley wrote:

> For the poor among us (myself included), the idea has sprung into my mind 
> to just use the airbox with no filter at all, thus lengthening the intake 
> tract just like a stack would, although compromising a bit of airflow.
> 
> Further input, anyone?

A friend of mine has the old TBR pipe, HRC carb kit, but instead of
individuals, he has used the stock airbox and sandwiched a flat piece of uni
filter material and some screening (for support) between the airbox
halves. It was cheap and he says it works great. It also solved a tuning
problem he was having.

Matt/OH




------------------------------

From <@adi.analog.com:Kenneth.Lawas@analog.com> Wed Jun 21 13:10 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: Throttle hand pain.


> Is it just me or does anyone elses throttle hand start to hurt after a
> while?  I think it is either one of two possibilities:  Heavy throttle
> spring or bars tilted in too much for tall riders.  By a while I mean
> about an hour or so.
> 
> How important is that pin that keeps the bars at that angle?


  I know exactly what you mean.  The throttle is an ergonomic nightmare
  in the way you have to twist it with your wrist cocked in and two
  fingers over the brake lever.  After a full day of riding, the pain
  is bad, but I never remember to do anything about it.

  Given the number of people using clip-ons, and the fact that I've
  never budged my bars under full braking with the factory torque
  settings, I'd say grind the pins off.

  -Ken
   kenneth.lawas@analog.com


------------------------------

From mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com Wed Jun 21 14:05 PDT 1995
Subject: RE: Throttle hand pain.

> 
> 
> > Is it just me or does anyone elses throttle hand start to hurt after a
> > while?  I think it is either one of two possibilities:  Heavy throttle
> > spring or bars tilted in too much for tall riders.  By a while I mean
> > about an hour or so.
> > 
> > How important is that pin that keeps the bars at that angle?
> 
> 
>   I know exactly what you mean.  The throttle is an ergonomic nightmare
>   in the way you have to twist it with your wrist cocked in and two
>   fingers over the brake lever.  After a full day of riding, the pain
>   is bad, but I never remember to do anything about it.
> 
>   Given the number of people using clip-ons, and the fact that I've
>   never budged my bars under full braking with the factory torque
>   settings, I'd say grind the pins off.

Yup.  I use F2 bars, with NO locator pins for the triple tree.  They
don't budge, even when really railing the bike.  Grind off the locator
pins, then adjust the bars to where they become comfortable.  This should
help you out greatly with the pain.  Do NOT get clip-ons, tho.  Even though
they may seem attractive for their adjustability, they really put a strain
on your wrists.  I like mine, but I am developing arthritis in my wrists
as a result.  WIth the F2 bars on the Hawk, you're REALLY leaned over.
Great for wind, but sh*tty for the wrists.

Mike
--
Mike Nielsen   	   v: 916.785.1770	e: mnielsen@hprnd.rose.hp.com


------------------------------

From MAILER-DAEMON@emin05.mail.aol.com Wed Jun 21 14:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable

The mail you sent could not be delivered to:
550 nt650hawk is not a known user

The text you sent follows:

>From frank@dsea.com Wed Jun 21 17:29:10 1995
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Date: Wed, 21 Jun 1995 14:17:05 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 
Message-Id: <199506212117.OAA01206@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: Hand et wrist pain
Content-Length: 1216


Yeah, the Hawk does not have the best layout for pain free touring.
I've done a few things to reduce the problem.  In order from 
most to least effective, here they are.

	Get a throttle lock.  This lets you relax the hands, even
	for a few seconds every minute.  Works better than you 
	would imagine.

	Get big, soft winter gloves.  Even in the summer in Death
	Valley I would wear these ( and did ).  Not for sport
	riding.

	Get "cush" grips for the bars.  Lets the hands relax.

	Read "Twist of the Wrist" and others; proper mind set helps
	the whole body.

	Get a tall tank bag, permitting some leaning on the tank.

	Wear leathers and drive about 90 mph.  This is good except
	for the tickets and the bugs that hit me in the neck.
	The wing effect removes a great deal of wrist pain.

	Drive really slow with the throttle lock on and fold your
	arms.  I did this for about 110 miles one day.  I steered by 
	using my knees as sails.  Not recommened in the mountains.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097



------------------------------

From MAILER-DAEMON@mail05.mail.aol.com Wed Jun 21 14:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable

The mail you sent could not be delivered to:
550 hawknutt is not a known user

The text you sent follows:

>From frank@dsea.com Wed Jun 21 17:36:27 1995
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Date: Wed, 21 Jun 1995 14:17:05 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 
Message-Id: <199506212117.OAA01206@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: Hand et wrist pain
Content-Length: 1216


Yeah, the Hawk does not have the best layout for pain free touring.
I've done a few things to reduce the problem.  In order from 
most to least effective, here they are.

	Get a throttle lock.  This lets you relax the hands, even
	for a few seconds every minute.  Works better than you 
	would imagine.

	Get big, soft winter gloves.  Even in the summer in Death
	Valley I would wear these ( and did ).  Not for sport
	riding.

	Get "cush" grips for the bars.  Lets the hands relax.

	Read "Twist of the Wrist" and others; proper mind set helps
	the whole body.

	Get a tall tank bag, permitting some leaning on the tank.

	Wear leathers and drive about 90 mph.  This is good except
	for the tickets and the bugs that hit me in the neck.
	The wing effect removes a great deal of wrist pain.

	Drive really slow with the throttle lock on and fold your
	arms.  I did this for about 110 miles one day.  I steered by 
	using my knees as sails.  Not recommened in the mountains.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097



------------------------------

From NWZA05A@mail.prodigy.com Thu Jun 22 00:05 PDT 1995
Subject: new tire testin'

Hey y'all,
    Today was the first day I could _really_ test my new *matching* 
Bridgestone BT50 front radial.  The change from the old baldy is 
simply miraculous!  Even though I haven't ridden in about a year, the 
bike felt completely stable through my favorite high speed (~80-90) 
sweepers.  It seems like I have to push to get it into a corner, but 
once there, the Hawk requires no muscling to keep it on a given line. 

    Thanks to Frank for the advice on the Supertrapp melted plastic 
removal.  I used 1000 grit sandpaper, and it looks great (if a little 
more polished than the rest of the canister).
    I was planning on pitching my Dyno jetting in favor of the list's 
reccomended mods, but thought that since I paid $50 bucks for it I 
better use it (plus there's the changes I made to the slide which may 
affect the size of the jets to use).  One question though, the 
exhaust smells awfully rich at idle and low speeds.  Is this normal? 
The jets I am running are #140 front and rear.
    One more thing:  I wheelied the beast for the first time today.  
What a kick in the ass!  I know I shouldn't have with the new 
sprocket and all, but I couldn't resist....twice.

Todd 
 



------------------------------

From PhAstie@aol.com Thu Jun 22 00:50 PDT 1995
Subject: unsuscribe

unsuscribe PhAstie@AOL.COM


------------------------------

From cscops2@cscops2.Ebay.Sun.COM Thu Jun 22 12:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Engine Life 



Hey guys,

     I asked this question a while back, but response was light 
at best. I have decided to keep my bike as opposed to buying a
new one. However, keeping it means mods. The question: I have
40k+ miles on this bike. Is it likely that I will begin to have 
problems soon. I know that it depends heavily on past maint., but
I'm the third owner, and the first can't be reached for questioning. 
Are there common items that I can expect to fail soon. Is there any
reliable way to check the general health of the engine. If this thing
is going to die soon, I will just ride it into the ground. If I can 
expect a few more good miles, I may put some money into it. Any and
all advice will be much appreciated.

Thanx
Kev- 
'88 - Blue



------------------------------

From ckrieger@osf1.gmu.edu Thu Jun 22 13:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Engine Life

|
|     I asked this question a while back, but response was light 
|at best. I have decided to keep my bike as opposed to buying a
|new one. However, keeping it means mods. The question: I have
|40k+ miles on this bike. Is it likely that I will begin to have 
|problems soon. I know that it depends heavily on past maint., but
|I'm the third owner, and the first can't be reached for questioning. 
|Are there common items that I can expect to fail soon. Is there any
|reliable way to check the general health of the engine. If this thing
|is going to die soon, I will just ride it into the ground. If I can 
|expect a few more good miles, I may put some money into it. Any and
|all advice will be much appreciated.

I've always heard that a "leakdown test" is about the best way to get a
general idea of the state of the motor.  I think you had better let a
shop do this unless you have a compressor.

-cliff


------------------------------

From SeanMc13@aol.com Thu Jun 22 14:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Engine Life 

Kev,
  I posted a similar question several weeks ago, also with light response. I
have a feeling that there just aren't very many high mileage hawks out there.
For what it's worth my stock 88 has almost 55K miles and is still going
strong with no mechanical problems to date. The responses that I got from my
posting indicated that the hawk will run reliably well past 40,000 miles.
However, everything I heard refered to stock bikes, I don't know what effect
the modifications you're planning will have on the life of your hawk.
-Sean


------------------------------

From JudCamm@aol.com Fri Jun 23 09:25 PDT 1995
Subject: Subscription

I am very interested in purchasing a motorcycle and would like to learn more
about them through your discussion group.


------------------------------

From KayPass@aol.com Fri Jun 23 10:25 PDT 1995
Subject: Mailing List

Please put me on your mailing list.  You can consider me a valuable member
once I join.  I have owned motorcycles for years.

Sincerely,

Dan Goren


------------------------------

From Kenneth.Lawas@analog.com Fri Jun 23 10:25 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: SOUNDS LIKE MONEY




> --- Mike Nielsen wrote:
>  Before you do that, check your exhaust pipes to make sure
> they are on tight.  I had a problem where mine loosened up enough
> (from vibration) to make noise.  Make sure they are all tight, and torqued 
> to the correct values (whatever those values are).
> 
> 
> Mike
>  
> --- end of quoted material ---
> 
> 
> does anyone know what those torque settings are?
> 
> S
> 

>From the torque tables,
  Exhaust pipe joint nut,  20 ft-lb
  Muffler band bolt,  20 ft-lb
  Muffler mounting bolt,  20 ft-lb

>From the exploded diagram,
  Exhaust pipe joint nut = headpipe to cylinder head nut (2 per pipe)
  Muffler band bolt = headpipe to muffler clamp bolt (two?)
  Muffler mounting bolt = muffler/resonator to frame hanger bolt/nut


------------------------------

From jasons@goodnet.com Fri Jun 23 18:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Newsletter?

Please Email info!



------------------------------

From AGault@aol.com Fri Jun 23 18:35 PDT 1995
Subject: spec II

i just got a spec II catalog in the mail.  i like the full fairing  any
comments?  anybody have any advice about the pipe?  


------------------------------

From AGault@aol.com Mon Jun 26 08:20 PDT 1995
Subject: web page

is it just me or has anybody else not been able to get through to the web
page.  somebody please print  out the address again.  i have never been able
to get through and i am very interested


------------------------------

From blarney@wwa.com Mon Jun 26 09:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Exhaust removal question

With all the exhaust-related questions flying around these days,
perhaps i can ask something similar, though more basic...

I'm in the process of taking off the exhause pipes to sand and paint 
them w/hi-temp aluminum paint, since they are seriouslyl rusted. 
(not sure why; i got the bike that way. Is that a common problem?)

Anyway, I have the service manual which basically says to unbolt them,
and remove them. The unbolting when ok (once i bought a u-joint socket
adapter), but they didn't slip out easily at all, not with any amount
of wiggling around. I ended up separating the two pipes, after loosening 
the band where they slip together. (is that a no-no?)

I'm just wondering if there is some trick to getting them back on, so
i won't get them all scratched up. I have a Kerker muffler, but that
didn't seem to be getting in the way at all.

Thanks
(now that i sold the CB550, the Hawk is finally getting all the attention)

Carolyn Cullen
blarney@wwa.com        DoD#0450        '89 Hawk GT 


------------------------------

From heaven@pogo.den.mmc.com Mon Jun 26 09:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Newsletter? (fwd)

> 
  
  the yearly dues for Hawkworks are $20 with a T shirt, $12 without.
  Send a check to Hawkworks, 130 Bomber blvd, MOuntain Home, AR 72653.
  Issues come out about every other month.

  Brian Heaven


------------------------------

From dougp@gti.net Mon Jun 26 11:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Subscription Information

I would like information on subscring to this list.

My profuse apologies if this message is echoed to the list.

Doug Pinckney
dougp@gti.net
DoD#88250
"I Love the Smell of Chain Wax in the Morning"



------------------------------

From mudpuppy@gibbs.oit.unc.edu Mon Jun 26 11:55 PDT 1995
Subject: More on Jet Kits, Dyno Runs, etc.


Well folks,

I'm going to the track for the first time, and have a TBR pipe on the way.
I know that it's probably not the optimal pipe, but the price was right.

SO...this weekend, I went to all the local shops and talked with a top Hawk
racer, hoping to get the scoop on the proper jetkit setup.

I went to Shop A.

Very nice guys there.  They pulled up dyno runs for about 5-6 different
Hawks, and most of them had between 5-10 runs each.  I saw stock vs. TBR
with FactoryTiPro kit, and it was nicely smooth throughout the entire
range.  Then they showed me the same bike after the rest of the bike had
been breathed on.  That's when the severe midrange drop set in.  The guy
there told me that the Factory kits are fine with just a pipe, but as soon
as you start messing with the airbox, the valves, timing, pistons, porting,
you'll have trouble.   The Dynojet kit was $66 and the FactoryTi was
around $90.  They said that they could install and tune it in about 2 hours
of time/dynotime and that it'd run about $150 including the jet kit
(Dynojet).

These guys were adding power everywhere with just the jets and pipe, but
then with the other mods, they were adding another 5-6 hp up top, but lost
all the midrange.  I don't want that to happen...

He said that the needle on the Factory kit, with the little narrow area in
the middle was to blame, and he recommended a Dynojet kit.  I have been
warned away from Dynojet kits due to the fact that their main jets are
totally different and difficult to reconcile with stock Keihin jets.  He
had both the Dynojet kit and the Factory kits there, so it wasn't just a
case of "sell what you have".  I trust this guy.

I went to Shop B.

These guys built and raced some awesome Hawk last year.  Won every race all
season.  Really.  They sold that bike and are now racing FZR's.  Anyway,
you'd think that they really knew what they were talking about.  These guys
are really big into the TBR stuff.  That's about all they use.  I asked
them what I should do.  They said without hesitation to get the HRC kit
with the sliders, springs, UNI pods, etc.  $250.  "you can get a regular
kit and get another 5 hp, or you can get the HRC kit and get another 10hp.
It's not worth the time to just get a Factory kit."  I was pretty
suspicious at this point.  My bullshit meter was pegged, you could say.
I've heard of smoothing out the power delivery, but I've never heard of
jetkits adding that much top end power.  I didn't get to see any dyno
sheets there to prove it to me either.

Then I asked about how much time it would take them to install/tune it up
with the new kit.  4 hours at $40/hr.  Hmmmm.  That sounds like an awful
lot of time.  I was not too excited about these guys at that point.  $390
for jets/tune???

I talked to Racer X.

He runs flatsides, and says "actually, after all the work and money I put
into them, I'm not making any more horsepower".  I saw the dyno runs for
this bike, and the midrange is way off.  No power until around 6500-7k.  He
pulls it all the way through the redline area on the tach before he shifts.
He's getting a little over 60 hp though, and it's pretty smooth up there
at the top.

His Chafong rearsets are way-cool.  Way expensive too, but way cool.
The Chafong clip-ons are nice too, but more expensive than the Lockhart
(and Graves too).

------------

SO,  I hate to flog a dead horse, but what do you guys think?

What jetkit should I go with?

Am I wrong about Dynojet?  Anyone like the Dynojet kit?

Is the HRC kit worth the money?

Factory TiPro?  Anyone NOT experience that midrange drop in power?

Thanks for your help.  I hope to have more info on this whole thing when
I'm done, and I'll be sure to provide dyno run sheets if I get 'em.




Phil Calvin     DoD #242   '91 HawkGT
Env. Sci. and Eng., UNC-Chapel Hill




------------------------------

From CYNTHIA@diablo.adm.clarkson.edu Mon Jun 26 12:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Newsletter? (fwd)

> From:           Brian D Heaven 
> Subject:        Newsletter? (fwd)
> To:             hawkgt@dsea.com
> Date sent:      Mon, 26 Jun 1995 10:51:13 -0700 (MDT)

> > 
>   
>   the yearly dues for Hawkworks are $20 with a T shirt, $12 without.
>   Send a check to Hawkworks, 130 Bomber blvd, MOuntain Home, 

AR 72653   NO,NO,no

it's AK as in Arkansas

CJ

 
>   Brian Heaven
> 


------------------------------

From giant!giant.IntraNet.com!steve@omega.IntraNet.com Mon Jun 26 13:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Newsletter? (fwd)

>>AR 72653   NO,NO,no
>it's AK as in Arkansas

	I thought AK was Alaska.

	sa


------------------------------

From Gumby647@aol.com Mon Jun 26 13:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: More on Jet Kits, Dyno Ru...

    I'd recomend the HRC kit. I will help the mid range, thats what the
slides are for. The HRC kit is harder to tune, it has 3 sets of needles,
each can be shimed up or down 3mm in 1/2mm increments,and 
5 sets of main jets. I contrast the Factory kit has 1 needle and 
6 positions for the clip, and 1 set of mains.

                                                          Gumby


------------------------------

From alan@wana.pbrc.Hawaii.Edu Mon Jun 26 17:10 PDT 1995
Subject: Tire plugs...

Last week I was cleaning my bike when I noticed a screw was embedded in my
back tire.  I had just bought new tires in December 160 MeZ1 rear and a 110
MeZ1 racing compound front tire (guy offered it to me same price as
street).  I removed the tire and had a permanant mushroom-type plug
installed (rebalanced too).  Well since then I've heard conflicting things
about tire plugs.  According to several racers and three bike shops
permanant plugs are fine, even run a plugged tires on their racebikes too. 
Another mechanic says plugs hold as long as you stay under 80 mph else they
fly away.  Another bike shop tells me holes are unrepairable in tubeless
race radials -- buy a new one.  Ok, whats the deal with plugs.  I pack
often, I also go over 80 (not at the same time though) am I just asking for
an accident to happen?  The screw was a short wood type and only about 3/16
inches of it managed to puncture.  Well, anybody heard any horror stories
of plugs popping out on 90mph sweepers?  Is the back tire safe?  I had to
scratch around for gas money today so buying a new tire is really out of
the question.
Alan



------------------------------

From M-Vollmer@bgu.edu Tue Jun 27 11:20 PDT 1995
Subject: http://mom.isc-br.com/WL/mmlo.txt

Please include M-Vollmer@bgu.edu on the mailing list for info re: Honda Hawk GT650




------------------------------

From mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil Tue Jun 27 17:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: My Hawk Wet Its Pants

>>      I checked the fan and found that the wires had come loose and I 
>>      reattached them.  Is there a way to test if the cooling fan is 
>>      working?  I have been watching it and it has not come on since I put 
>>      the wires back together.
>
>Make sure the fan is working.  It is EXTREMELY important when the bike
>is stopped for those pesky traffic lights, etc., and the weather is warm.

I have never seen the fan come on on my Hawk, but I just bought it last fall
and have only seen a couple of 90-degree days and not much stop-and-go traffic.
How far up the temp gage does the needle get before the fan comes on?  Mine 
has gone between about 2/3 and 3/4 of the way up towards the red, but no
farther.  Is there an easy way to test the fan and whatever type of 
thermostat it uses?  

David Mackintosh      '82 245 Turbo  '92 Sovereign  '95 Moda  '89 Hawk GT
mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil            Germantown, MD, USA       DoD #1360



------------------------------

From alan@wana.pbrc.Hawaii.Edu Tue Jun 27 17:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Thanks

I guess I don't have to worry about endangering the 149+mph rating on the
MeZ huh?  I feel a lot better knowing that others have found plugs to be
reliable. Thanks to Dennis, CXTurbo, Gumby, Rich and everyone else who
helped with my tire plug question.      
Alan



------------------------------

From CYNTHIA@diablo.adm.clarkson.edu Wed Jun 28 07:06 PDT 1995
Subject: Foot pegs


Hi all

Here's my problem, I got new boots and they have a rubber sole and 
the sole is thicker than my old ones, end result my left foot is at 
an uncomfortable angle for shifting and the soles stick to the rubber 
pegs, making changing from above to below the shift level cumbersome 
to say the least.

I've seen pegs on a '91 VFR that look like they'd be lower and don't 
have the rubber surface on top.  Anybody know if these would fit on 
the Hawk, or any other possible options??

thanks
CJ
 





------------------------------

From jpl10@mfg.amdahl.com Wed Jun 28 08:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Foot pegs

> 
> Hi all
> 
> Here's my problem, I got new boots and they have a rubber sole and
> the sole is thicker than my old ones, end result my left foot is at
> an uncomfortable angle for shifting and the soles stick to the rubber
> pegs, making changing from above to below the shift level cumbersome
> to say the least.
> 
> I've seen pegs on a '91 VFR that look like they'd be lower and don't
> have the rubber surface on top.  Anybody know if these would fit on
> the Hawk, or any other possible options??
> 
> thanks
> CJ
> 

Would adjusting the height of the shifter help out?  It's a real easy job to 
do rather than buying a whole new linkage.

James
'89 RC-31 "Ride Red"


------------------------------

From spatel@mcp.com Wed Jun 28 08:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re[2]: My Hawk Wet Its Pants

     Folks!  This is Duke, I am one who started this whole discussion.  Let 
     me update you all on the status of my bike:
     
     -tested the fan and it works - took a piece of wire and attached it to 
     the battery (-) and the other end to the wire which meets the 
     thermostatic switch.
     
     -tested the thermostatic switch and it works - drained the coolant, 
     took out the switch and heated it by placing it on the electric range 
     for a minute, ran back out to the bike, hooked it back to the wire 
     from the fan, and using the above procedure (connecting the wire from 
     the switch to the battery) got the fan going.
     
     -tested the bike and it still piddles :(  - took it out on a hot day 
     (85-90), needle gets past no higher than the half way mark, fan never 
     comes on, stop at a light and look down and it still happens.  
     
     I don't think the fan is the problem, come to think of it David 
     Mackintosh is right, it has never come on for me either.  I have this 
     suspicion that my radiator cap may be at fault.  So back to taking the 
     tank out AGAIN and see if that solves it, if not the last thing I want 
     to do is to check the thermostat.  That will mean undoing a whole 
     bunch of hoses - not something to look forward to.
     
     Bottom line,  I am not going to let this stop me from riding.  Keep an 
     eye on the coolant level and the temp needle and continue to piss and 
     moan.
     
     I will keep you guys posted how this project goes along.  Thanks to 
     all for providing me valuable information.
     
     Duke
     '89 Red


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: My Hawk Wet Its Pants
Author:  mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh) at Internet
Date:    6/27/95 8:01 PM


>>      I checked the fan and found that the wires had come loose and I 
>>      reattached them.  Is there a way to test if the cooling fan is 
>>      working?  I have been watching it and it has not come on since I put 
>>      the wires back together.
>
>Make sure the fan is working.  It is EXTREMELY important when the bike 
>is stopped for those pesky traffic lights, etc., and the weather is warm.
     
I have never seen the fan come on on my Hawk, but I just bought it last fall 
and have only seen a couple of 90-degree days and not much stop-and-go traffic. 
How far up the temp gage does the needle get before the fan comes on?  Mine 
has gone between about 2/3 and 3/4 of the way up towards the red, but no 
farther.  Is there an easy way to test the fan and whatever type of 
thermostat it uses?  
     
David Mackintosh      '82 245 Turbo  '92 Sovereign  '95 Moda  '89 Hawk GT 
mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil            Germantown, MD, USA       DoD #1360
     


------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Wed Jun 28 09:35 PDT 1995
Subject: WWW 800 directory

I thought this was a great page, and that all you hawksters would
appreciate its usefulness:

The AT&T 800 Directory on the WWW:  http://att.net/dir800/

I entered "motorcycle" in the Find a Category slot, and got a heap of
names... nice search engine, too.  One can restrict by location, etc.

Well, enjoy.  Oh yeah, standard disclaimer:  I am in no way connected to
AT&T, I just thought this was a cool page.

Hugh -- eagerly waitin' on a TBR full fairing and single seat...geez, my
bike's turnin' into a TBR showcase...gonna paint it all black, w/ cherry
clear coat... deep, deep, DEEP red, yum.




------------------------------

From ckrieger@osf1.gmu.edu Wed Jun 28 09:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Foot pegs

|> Here's my problem, I got new boots and they have a rubber sole and
|> the sole is thicker than my old ones, end result my left foot is at
|> an uncomfortable angle for shifting and the soles stick to the rubber
|> pegs, making changing from above to below the shift level cumbersome
|> to say the least.
|> 
|> I've seen pegs on a '91 VFR that look like they'd be lower and don't
|> have the rubber surface on top.  Anybody know if these would fit on
|> the Hawk, or any other possible options??
|
|Would adjusting the height of the shifter help out?  It's a real easy job to 
|do rather than buying a whole new linkage.

Either that, or cut a notch out of the soul of your boots.

-cliff


------------------------------

From CEB5@PSUVM.PSU.EDU Wed Jun 28 10:25 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: My Hawk Wet Its Pants

David:  The fan on my '88 comes on when the temp gage reaches somewhere
between 2/3 and 3/4 of full range.  Excuse the lack of precision, but this is
from my distant memory.  My fan hasn't had the need to come on since
the summer of '93.  Not much stop and go traffic around my home turf :-)

Chuck
'88 Black
State College, PA


------------------------------

From MEL1523@ACS.TAMU.EDU Wed Jun 28 13:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Temperature/fans


;David:  The fan on my '88 comes on when the temp gage reaches somewhere
;between 2/3 and 3/4 of full range.  Excuse the lack of precision, but this is
;from my distant memory.  My fan hasn't had the need to come on since
;the summer of '93.  Not much stop and go traffic around my home turf :-)

The manual sez that the thermostat should start to open at 176-183 F 
(standard 180F thermostat specs).  The test procedure for it was standard. 
Dip in hot water with a thermometer, and see if it opens at about 180.

The thermoswitch for the fan acts by grounding the lead connected to it.  It 
should close (turn the fan on) at 199-207 F.

The pressure cap and cooling system should be able to hold 13-18 psi.  It 
quoted 6 seconds for the hold/leakdown time.

As I have said before, the Hawk cooling system design sucks.  Not in that it 
doesn't cool, but that it has poor control.  In the cooler months, mine never 
gets much above the lower mark on the gauge.  Even in the summer (95-98F 
here in central Texas) the fan never comes on even in traffic.  I have to 
get it out on the road (55 MPH+) to get the gauge up around 1/3 to 1/2.  

Instead of having a bypass from the sensor side of the thermostat back to 
the pump suction (like cars do), it has a hole drilled in the thermostat 
plate. This allows the thermostat to get a sense of the circulating water 
temperature, but at the expense of always being "a little open".  This 
little bit of water flow through the radiator seems to be enough/too much on 
the cooler days. 

If you are having boilover, I'd check the thermostat very carefully for 
pluggage of that hole.  If the gauge does not move, but it boils over, it 
could be that the hole has plugged preventing the thermostat from sensing 
the temperature correctly.  The gauge sensor is also in the thermostat 
housing, so if it is cold, then so is the thermostat.  If you rip open the 
thermostat, you may dislodge the crud and never see it.  The thermostat will 
check out ok so you'll never know.  Also check the pressure cap.  But, a 
properly functioning Hawk runs so cool anyway, I find it hard to believe 
that a bad cap alone would allow it to boil over.

 - Mitch
  '88 Gray




------------------------------

From MEL1523@ACS.TAMU.EDU Wed Jun 28 13:55 PDT 1995
Subject: Web Page Unreliability


;is it just me or has anybody else not been able to get through to the web
;page.  somebody please print  out the address again.  i have never been able
;to get through and i am very interested

I apologize to those of you trying fruitlessly to access the HawkGT Web 
Page.  The files run on an old PC with a bad http server.  Sometimes it 
crashes, and your browsers won't be able to find the URL.  It is at:

http://www-chen.tamu.edu/homepage/mel1523/hawkgt.htm

Even I can't get in sometimes.  I regularly ask the system admin to reset 
the server.  He doesn't seem to want to replace the beta server he's running 
or set it up for daily resetting, so I'm stuck.  But, his email address is:

jdm7140@chennov2.tamu.edu

His name is James.  If you can't find the server, ask him if there is a 
problem with the web server.
Maybe a half dozen or so emails every day will help 
convince him to fix the problem.  I spent a good bit of time compiling the 
articles and scanning in manual drawings, and I hate seeing people ask about 
it and how much they want to see it because of a beta-version freeware http 
server.  There's lots of pages on that machine including the Chemical 
Engineering department's pages.  With the exception of the main ChE dept 
page (which everyone accesses in the lab when they launch Mosaic), the 
HawkGT page is the most accessed!

 - Mitch
   '88 Gray




------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Wed Jun 28 17:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Re[2]: My Hawk Wet Its Pants

MY exprience on the track, includiong all kinds of weird weather 
conditions, both with and without a t-stat, is this:  my stock-engined 
Hawk only bubbles over if the tank is overfull.  It seems to only take a 
little bit to do it- perhaps the aforementioned crud in the t-stat has 
something to do with it also.

Hope this is some help....

DC



------------------------------

From ddc10@columbia.edu Wed Jun 28 17:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Foot pegs

CBR600F2 footpegs/ risers bolt right up, which gives you a metal 
footpeg.  I don't know about those VFr pegs, myself.  I also have a 
template for relocators you can make yourself, if you'd like.

DC



------------------------------

From GTRider9@aol.com Wed Jun 28 22:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Foot pegs

In a message dated 95-06-28 10:18:19 EDT, CYNTHIA@diablo.adm.clarkson.edu
(CYNTHIA) writes:

>I've seen pegs on a '91 VFR that look like they'd be lower and don't 
>have the rubber surface on top.  Anybody know if these would fit on 
>the Hawk...?

Yes, the VFR pegs go right on, although you have to clip the ends off the VFR
return springs to make them work correctly.  Hopefully you can find some used
ones, as they aren't cheap, but they work great.

Dave



------------------------------

From MAILER-DAEMON@whale.st.usm.edu Thu Jun 29 09:40 PDT 1995
Subject: Returned mail: Insufficient permission

  --- The transcript of the session follows ---
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550 ... Insufficient permission

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Date: Thu, 29 Jun 1995 09:21:17 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 
Message-Id: <199506291621.JAA23585@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: Finally jetted and rode!
Content-Length: 1601


Nearly two weeks ago I installed the Dynojet kit.  Here are
the mods.
   144F
   140R
   Pilot screws out 2.5
   Supertrapp w/8 disk
   Airbox top removed; aluminum bracked made to hold original filter
      on original airbox.

Today I had a real reason to take the bike out ( for the first time, I 
walk to work ).  I have noticed a few changes.  First, the flat spot
that came with the bike stock ( the one around 2500 ) rpm is back,
but much less so than with the stock carb.+muffler.  Very hard
to notice.  Idle is still good.  Throttle response from 3000 to 6000
rpm is good and the bike is much stronger; I was wondering if my arms
were going to stretch once or twice.  It is hard to tell what
happens at about 6000 rpm.  Perhaps I just fade back to origial 
power, or perhaps I get more, but it is not as strong as it is at
5000 rpm.  Power is good right up to the rev limiter.

I have not yet done a plug reading, and have not run my oxygen
sensor.  This mornings's run was up to AS&S to get some zinc chromate
primer, and was not amenable to reading a volt meter.  Perhaps this
weekend I'll have a reading.  My guess is that I am running a bit
rich at WOT.  

Tooling along at 60, the bike is still faily quite.   But whack
the throttle open in 4th gear at this speed and it is LOUD. 

New ( LARGE ) tank progress is slow but steady.  Slow, though.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097



------------------------------

From MAILER-DAEMON@emin04.mail.aol.com Thu Jun 29 09:45 PDT 1995
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable

The mail you sent could not be delivered to:
550 hawknutt is not a known user

The text you sent follows:

>From frank@dsea.com Thu Jun 29 12:48:29 1995
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Date: Thu, 29 Jun 1995 09:21:17 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 
Message-Id: <199506291621.JAA23585@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: Finally jetted and rode!
Content-Length: 1601


Nearly two weeks ago I installed the Dynojet kit.  Here are
the mods.
   144F
   140R
   Pilot screws out 2.5
   Supertrapp w/8 disk
   Airbox top removed; aluminum bracked made to hold original filter
      on original airbox.

Today I had a real reason to take the bike out ( for the first time, I 
walk to work ).  I have noticed a few changes.  First, the flat spot
that came with the bike stock ( the one around 2500 ) rpm is back,
but much less so than with the stock carb.+muffler.  Very hard
to notice.  Idle is still good.  Throttle response from 3000 to 6000
rpm is good and the bike is much stronger; I was wondering if my arms
were going to stretch once or twice.  It is hard to tell what
happens at about 6000 rpm.  Perhaps I just fade back to origial 
power, or perhaps I get more, but it is not as strong as it is at
5000 rpm.  Power is good right up to the rev limiter.

I have not yet done a plug reading, and have not run my oxygen
sensor.  This mornings's run was up to AS&S to get some zinc chromate
primer, and was not amenable to reading a volt meter.  Perhaps this
weekend I'll have a reading.  My guess is that I am running a bit
rich at WOT.  

Tooling along at 60, the bike is still faily quite.   But whack
the throttle open in 4th gear at this speed and it is LOUD. 

New ( LARGE ) tank progress is slow but steady.  Slow, though.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097



------------------------------

From MAILER-DAEMON@emin04.mail.aol.com Thu Jun 29 09:45 PDT 1995
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable

The mail you sent could not be delivered to:
550 nt650hawk is not a known user

The text you sent follows:

>From frank@dsea.com Thu Jun 29 12:50:34 1995
Received: from netcomsv.netcom.com by emin04.mail.aol.com with ESMTP
	(1.37.109.11/16.2) id AA131944634; Thu, 29 Jun 1995 12:50:34 -0400
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Received: (from frank@localhost) by server.eng.dsea.com (8.6.9/8.6.9) id JAA23585 for HawkGT@dsea.com; Thu, 29 Jun 1995 09:21:17 -0700
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 1995 09:21:17 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 
Message-Id: <199506291621.JAA23585@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: Finally jetted and rode!
Content-Length: 1601


Nearly two weeks ago I installed the Dynojet kit.  Here are
the mods.
   144F
   140R
   Pilot screws out 2.5
   Supertrapp w/8 disk
   Airbox top removed; aluminum bracked made to hold original filter
      on original airbox.

Today I had a real reason to take the bike out ( for the first time, I 
walk to work ).  I have noticed a few changes.  First, the flat spot
that came with the bike stock ( the one around 2500 ) rpm is back,
but much less so than with the stock carb.+muffler.  Very hard
to notice.  Idle is still good.  Throttle response from 3000 to 6000
rpm is good and the bike is much stronger; I was wondering if my arms
were going to stretch once or twice.  It is hard to tell what
happens at about 6000 rpm.  Perhaps I just fade back to origial 
power, or perhaps I get more, but it is not as strong as it is at
5000 rpm.  Power is good right up to the rev limiter.

I have not yet done a plug reading, and have not run my oxygen
sensor.  This mornings's run was up to AS&S to get some zinc chromate
primer, and was not amenable to reading a volt meter.  Perhaps this
weekend I'll have a reading.  My guess is that I am running a bit
rich at WOT.  

Tooling along at 60, the bike is still faily quite.   But whack
the throttle open in 4th gear at this speed and it is LOUD. 

New ( LARGE ) tank progress is slow but steady.  Slow, though.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097



------------------------------

From MAILER-DAEMON Thu Jun 29 10:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Returned mail: Remote protocol error

The original message was received at Thu, 29 Jun 1995 12:47:19 -0400
from uumail2.netcom.com [163.179.3.52]

   ----- The following addresses had delivery problems -----
  (unrecoverable error)

   ----- Transcript of session follows -----
554 ... Remote protocol error

   ----- Original message follows -----
Return-Path: 
Reply-To: frank@dsea.com
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 1995 09:21:17 -0700
From: frank@dsea.com (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
Message-Id: <199506291621.JAA23585@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: Finally jetted and rode!


Nearly two weeks ago I installed the Dynojet kit.  Here are
the mods.
   144F
   140R
   Pilot screws out 2.5
   Supertrapp w/8 disk
   Airbox top removed; aluminum bracked made to hold original filter
      on original airbox.

Today I had a real reason to take the bike out ( for the first time, I 
walk to work ).  I have noticed a few changes.  First, the flat spot
that came with the bike stock ( the one around 2500 ) rpm is back,
but much less so than with the stock carb.+muffler.  Very hard
to notice.  Idle is still good.  Throttle response from 3000 to 6000
rpm is good and the bike is much stronger; I was wondering if my arms
were going to stretch once or twice.  It is hard to tell what
happens at about 6000 rpm.  Perhaps I just fade back to origial 
power, or perhaps I get more, but it is not as strong as it is at
5000 rpm.  Power is good right up to the rev limiter.

I have not yet done a plug reading, and have not run my oxygen
sensor.  This mornings's run was up to AS&S to get some zinc chromate
primer, and was not amenable to reading a volt meter.  Perhaps this
weekend I'll have a reading.  My guess is that I am running a bit
rich at WOT.  

Tooling along at 60, the bike is still faily quite.   But whack
the throttle open in 4th gear at this speed and it is LOUD. 

New ( LARGE ) tank progress is slow but steady.  Slow, though.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097




------------------------------

From Kenneth.Lawas@analog.com Thu Jun 29 10:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Track Day ranting



  Well, yesterday I wrung the street Hawk out at the track (NHIS).  A
  pretty good day.  The new MEZ1s stuck great (after I got my throttle
  control in order), but I was surprised at the effort it takes to set
  the radials in the esses.  My lazy street steering habits didn't cut
  it.  The payoff was no twitchiness, though.

  Now that I have better grip, I also need better braking.  I normally
  run Castrol LMA for a DOT 4 fluid (recommended by Carroll Smith in
  Engineer to Win), but I went cheaper and used Pyrol DOT4 when I
  installed the stainless brake line last year.  After one hard run,
  the brake lever felt permamently spongier.  Even after cooling off.
  Other than the extra travel, the stock brakes worked fine.

  I moved the preload spacers on the progressives to 3.5 inches.  This
  gives about an inch and a half of sag for me (I'm 150 lbs).  The
  front felt OK, but the back is in desperate need of help.  I tried
  backing down the preload for more sag and to allow easier
  transitioning of weight to the rear, but ended up dragging the
  muffler clamp bolt in addition to the footpegs.  Is there any thing
  that can be done with the rear shock other than to replace it?

 -Ken
  kenneth.lawas@analog.com
  '90 Orange (the paint didn't quite match)


------------------------------

From mudpuppy@gibbs.oit.unc.edu Thu Jun 29 10:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Homemade Rear Sets, was Re: Foot pegs

On Wed, 28 Jun 1995, Dennis Daniel Crowley wrote:

> Date: Wed, 28 Jun 1995 20:34:37 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Dennis Daniel Crowley 
> To: CYNTHIA 
> Cc: hawkgt@dsea.com
> Subject: Re: Foot pegs
> 
> CBR600F2 footpegs/ risers bolt right up, which gives you a metal 
> footpeg.  I don't know about those VFr pegs, myself.  I also have a 
> template for relocators you can make yourself, if you'd like.

I'm interested in this for sure.  

I've seen the Chafong clip-ons, and they're beautiful, but they're $300.

I don't think it would be too difficult to construct my own replacement 
peg-hanger with the pegs located higher and further to the rear.  If you 
have a template that you've used, that'd save me some time.  

I'd take some 1/4" stock aluminum and cut three holes and then machine 
out the shape I want.  Seems simple to me.

Is it the same template for both sides?  

Chafong used their own pegs (non-collapsable).  Did/do you use the 
original ones on your set up?

If the template is in any sort of computer form, I could put it on my web 
pages.  Or if you can fax it to me, or send me a photo-copy, I'd 
appreciate it. 

Later,
Phil


------------------------------

From Gumby647@aol.com Thu Jun 29 14:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Track Day ranting

    Ken,

   Linderman Eng. can revalve your stock shock and increase the 
ride height of the bike about 1/2". The cost is $135 and they valve the
shock to match your weight. If you just want more preload on the rear
you could make a spacer to fit on top the spring.


                                                                       Gumby
 


------------------------------

From mgiffin@dee.retix.com Thu Jun 29 14:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Lindeman


Gumby and Ken were talking about Lindeman re-valving the
stock Hawk shock. Does anyone have the number or address
for Lindeman?

Thanks,
Mark Giffin
mgiffin@retix.com


------------------------------

From hugh@bonair.stanford.edu Thu Jun 29 15:20 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: Lindeman

>Gumby and Ken were talking about Lindeman re-valving the
>stock Hawk shock. Does anyone have the number or address
>for Lindeman?

Lindemann Engineering Race Suspension
520 McGlincey Lane #3
Campbell, CA  95008
(408) 371-6151
(408) 371-4915 fax

Hope this helps,

Hugh




------------------------------

From alan@wana.pbrc.Hawaii.Edu Fri Jun 30 12:20 PDT 1995
Subject: rear shock

Ok, all this talk about rear shocks has got me thinking about replacing my
stock one too.  I've seen something in Hawkworks about using a CBR900RR
shock with a Hawk spring as a cheap alternative to a high performance
shock.  Finding a wrecked RR for parts dosen't seem to be that hard and it
sounds like a cheaper alternative than having Lindeman redo it.  Well, has
anyone tried this?  With all the interchangeablity between the Hawk and
other Hondas it seems plausible.
Does anyone know for a fact that this will not work/is a bad idea?  Anyone
know of any other shocks that could bolt into a Hawk (VFR maybe)?  Thanks.

Alan



------------------------------

From khangdao@sseos.lbl.gov Fri Jun 30 12:35 PDT 1995
Subject:  Fuel Shutoff.


A friend of mine says that the Hawk has some kind of fuel shutoff mechanism
so that you don't need to turn off the fuel petcock when you park the bike.
If the bike is going to be parked for a few days or weeks, do you have to
turn off the fuel at the petcock. If so, what happens if you don't?

-Khang Dao



------------------------------

From MAILER-DAEMON@emin04.mail.aol.com Fri Jun 30 13:25 PDT 1995
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable

The mail you sent could not be delivered to:
550 hawknutt is not a known user

The text you sent follows:

>From frank@dsea.com Fri Jun 30 16:29:47 1995
Received: from netcomsv.netcom.com by emin04.mail.aol.com with ESMTP
	(1.37.109.11/16.2) id AA236344187; Fri, 30 Jun 1995 16:29:47 -0400
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	id smab05817; Fri Jun 30 13:16:25 1995
Received: (from frank@localhost) by server.eng.dsea.com (8.6.9/8.6.9) id NAA06129 for HawkGT@dsea.com; Fri, 30 Jun 1995 13:10:50 -0700
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 13:10:50 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 
Message-Id: <199506302010.NAA06129@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: Hawk shock from CBR900RRRR
Content-Length: 903


Gumby mentioned this a while back.  I am seeking to learn 
more about it, as I now have a CBR900RR shock with 270 miles
on it.  

I understand that I have to slim down one of the mounting points.
Ok, I have a milling machine and a grinder.  Can anybody relate
what has been printed in HawkWorks to me, or to this list?

Changing springs seems like a bother.  I'd like to know about
the chain roller issue, if there really is one.


Also, I asked a while back about the DoD joust.  I never heard
a word.  What has happened?  Netscape does not do threaded
news, and trn does not deal with Solaris 2.3, so I do not bother
to read news anymore.  Please fill me in.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097



------------------------------

From MAILER-DAEMON@mail03.mail.aol.com Fri Jun 30 13:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Returned Mail: Undeliverable

The mail you sent could not be delivered to:
550 nt650hawk is not a known user

The text you sent follows:

>From frank@dsea.com Fri Jun 30 16:38:28 1995
Received: from netcomsv.netcom.com by mail03.mail.aol.com with ESMTP
	(1.37.109.16/16.2) id AA285474708; Fri, 30 Jun 1995 16:38:28 -0400
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Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 13:10:50 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 
Message-Id: <199506302010.NAA06129@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: Hawk shock from CBR900RRRR
Content-Length: 903


Gumby mentioned this a while back.  I am seeking to learn 
more about it, as I now have a CBR900RR shock with 270 miles
on it.  

I understand that I have to slim down one of the mounting points.
Ok, I have a milling machine and a grinder.  Can anybody relate
what has been printed in HawkWorks to me, or to this list?

Changing springs seems like a bother.  I'd like to know about
the chain roller issue, if there really is one.


Also, I asked a while back about the DoD joust.  I never heard
a word.  What has happened?  Netscape does not do threaded
news, and trn does not deal with Solaris 2.3, so I do not bother
to read news anymore.  Please fill me in.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097



------------------------------

From MAILER-DAEMON@whale.st.usm.edu Fri Jun 30 13:35 PDT 1995
Subject: Returned mail: Insufficient permission

  --- The transcript of the session follows ---
bellmail: cannot append to /usr/spool/mail/belampe
bellmail: cannot create //dead.letter
bellmail: error closing file: A file descriptor does not refer to an open file.
550 ... Insufficient permission

  --- The unsent message follows ---
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	id smaa05817; Fri Jun 30 13:16:24 1995
Received: (from frank@localhost) by server.eng.dsea.com (8.6.9/8.6.9) id NAA06129 for HawkGT@dsea.com; Fri, 30 Jun 1995 13:10:50 -0700
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 13:10:50 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 
Message-Id: <199506302010.NAA06129@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: Hawk shock from CBR900RRRR
Content-Length: 903


Gumby mentioned this a while back.  I am seeking to learn 
more about it, as I now have a CBR900RR shock with 270 miles
on it.  

I understand that I have to slim down one of the mounting points.
Ok, I have a milling machine and a grinder.  Can anybody relate
what has been printed in HawkWorks to me, or to this list?

Changing springs seems like a bother.  I'd like to know about
the chain roller issue, if there really is one.


Also, I asked a while back about the DoD joust.  I never heard
a word.  What has happened?  Netscape does not do threaded
news, and trn does not deal with Solaris 2.3, so I do not bother
to read news anymore.  Please fill me in.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097



------------------------------

From JimDuc916@aol.com Fri Jun 30 15:50 PDT 1995
Subject: Re: rear shock

OK--I confess--
It was me that suggested (and still do) using a CBR900RR shock on a Hawk in
Hawkworks.  Gary neglected to tell the part that is: Not only do you have to
use the Hawk spring (there is an taper on it, so it only goes on correctly
one way), but you also have to open up the hole for the bolt, and
furthermore, the mounting boss that goes in the frame has to be thinned by
about 4 (or so)mm in the middle of the bushing, and by about 5 mm around the
outside.  I clamp the shock in a vise, and tape a piece of scrap metal to the
body so I don't accidentally grind into the high pressure nitrogen
area....and use a hand grider and a Dremel tool, and a really cheap caliper
to measure. (How's that for a run on sentence?) The idea is that the top boss
has to fit between the mounts, and the inner bushing should be clamped tight.
 Also, the spring can be compressed by the crank tight tie downs (the kind
that use a wrench, not the little tabs....) from a hardware store, but BE
CAREFUL.  
The ride height is elevated about 1/2 and inch, and way more adjustable......
have fun,
call me if you want explicit verbal instruction....
jimd
716-688-4768


------------------------------

From JimDuc916@aol.com Fri Jun 30 16:05 PDT 1995
Subject: Fwd: Returned Mail: Undeliver...

next try....sorry
---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	Mailer-daemon@aol.com
To:	JimDuc916@aol.com
Date: 95-06-30 19:04:21 EDT

The mail you sent could not be delivered to:
550 nt650hawk is not a known user

The text you sent follows:

>From JimDuc916@aol.com Fri Jun 30 19:04:38 1995
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Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 18:56:27 -0400
Message-Id: <950630185625_81811676@aol.com>
To: alan@wana.pbrc.hawaii.edu
Cc: hawkgt@dsea.com
Subject: Re: rear shock

OK--I confess--
It was me that suggested (and still do) using a CBR900RR shock on a Hawk in
Hawkworks.  Gary neglected to tell the part that is: Not only do you have to
use the Hawk spring (there is an taper on it, so it only goes on correctly
one way), but you also have to open up the hole for the bolt, and
furthermore, the mounting boss that goes in the frame has to be thinned by
about 4 (or so)mm in the middle of the bushing, and by about 5 mm around the
outside.  I clamp the shock in a vise, and tape a piece of scrap metal to the
body so I don't accidentally grind into the high pressure nitrogen
area....and use a hand grider and a Dremel tool, and a really cheap caliper
to measure. (How's that for a run on sentence?) The idea is that the top boss
has to fit between the mounts, and the inner bushing should be clamped tight.
 Also, the spring can be compressed by the crank tight tie downs (the kind
that use a wrench, not the little tabs....) from a hardware store, but BE
CAREFUL.  
The ride height is elevated about 1/2 and inch, and way more adjustable......
have fun,
call me if you want explicit verbal instruction....
jimd
716-688-4768



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End of Hotrod Digest Tue Jan 23 10:19:11 PST 1996